If I Were Going...: August 2023

Let's go!

When planning your trip to Alaska, you need to consider lots of things. Let’s look at them.

Do You Plan or are You Spontaneous?

As much as I love a spontaneous vacation, Alaska is not the place to wing it. The main summer tourism season is short. Things book up.

Don't even think about Denali National Park without reservations! I have witnessed folks with huge RVs dejectedly leaving Denali because they didn't think they needed reservations to camp. They did.

Brooks Camp at Katmai National Park even has a lottery

Boat trips fill up quickly. Flight-seeing fills up. Fishing boats get reserved. Some lodges book two to three years in advance. So check, check, check.

When Should You Go?

Most likely, you will travel to Alaska in the summer, when you can see and do the most. I have been in all seasons and they all have their pros and cons.

Winter can be tough for travel and access. You have to be prepared for extreme cold, especially if you go above the Arctic Circle or to the interior (-40°F anyone?). You could have significant snow and, in some places, brutal wind. Ice is less of an issue in Alaska than other places because the temperatures tend to stay well below freezing (most surface ice comes from melting and refreezing). But, you could encounter it.

Winter can be astonishingly beautiful (even with short days)

If you drive your own car or rent a car, seriously consider 4WD and make sure you have the appropriate tires.

Photo: VvKB Heater

Also, you’ll need an engine block heater to keep the engine from freezing. Rental cars have them (that’s that electrical cord that sticks out of the front of the car). Most hotels are set up so that you can plug your car in overnight.

Parking can be interesting in snow-covered lots where you can no longer see lines, curbs or medians. It’s generally just a free-for-all.

Fairbanks in February

Days are short (or non-existent) in the winter, depending on how far north you go. North of the Arctic Circle, the sun doesn’t rise for up to several months; south of the Arctic Circle, days are just abbreviated.

For example, on December 21, Utqiagvik hasn’t seen the sun since November 19 and won’t see it again until February 23; Fairbanks sees sunrise at 10:57 a.m. and sunset at 2:39 p.m.; Anchorage sees sunrise at 9:21 a.m. and sunset at 4:09 p.m.; and Sitka sees sunrise at 7:55 a.m. and sunset at. 3:38 p.m.

Afternoon on the Dalton Highway

Alaska is huge, so sunrise and sunset are affected by both latitude and longitude.

Days are short north of the Arctic Circle in winter

The biggest challenge of winter is that so many things are closed, including the road into Denali National Park, tours of Kenai Fjords National Park, fishing expeditions, lodges and many roads.

The Park Highway in Denali on the (unplanned) last day of the season

Plus, Bears, Marmots and other animals have retreated to their dens to escape winter temperatures.

Winter is good for some animals, such as Caribou; Photo: Scott Stevens

But, in winter, you'll see some extraordinary sights. Top of the list is the aurora borealis.

Fire in the sky

Now, winter is the not only time you can see the aurora, but, because there is so much dark, the odds are better.

Before we talk about spring, we should probably define it because it may be later than you think it will be and it will vary dramatically depending on where you are going. I suggest checking average temperatures and forecasts before you decide.

"Spring" flowers often bloom in June or even July or August

Regardless, you generally can’t even think about spring until late April or early May. Early spring is often wet, cold and windy and, as snow melts, it gets muddy and mucky. It’s my least favorite season.

The tourist season tends to begin around May 15. Before that, don’t expect much to be open. As with winter, check weather forecasts before you plan, but be aware that the weather can fluctuate dramatically. Be prepared for rain, cold and maybe some warm weather.

Fog and rain are common

Summer has almost (or completely) unlimited daylight and everything is open, But, the crowds can be intense. Consider going early or late summer (but check schedules; your definition of summer may differ from Alaska's; early June may be too early).

Photographing "The Mountain" on a sunny day in Denali National Park

It can get hot, especially in the interior. I have seen 90°F. But, it can also be chilly.

Fall sees smaller crowds, fabulous fall colors, some closures and a chance to see Moose and Caribou in full antlers (and Polar Bears in the north).

Phenomenal colors

If you check schedules, you can often find the sweet spot between summer and fall where things are still open, animals are still around and it gets dark enough for good aurora.

Most things close around September 15, so you need to factor that in. And, while it’s generally not snowy then, it can be.

Tundra and snow

Weather is Alaska is pretty much a crap shoot. Always be prepared for it to do something unexpected.

Or extraordinary

How Will You Get There?

Most people travel to Alaska by air or boat. I have already talked about cruises, so I won’t go into much detail.

Many large ship cruises start and/or end in Vancouver, B.C., so the full Alaska experience is handled by the cruise line, even extensions to places such as Denali National Park.

Many cruises partner with the Alaska Railroad

Small ship cruises often start in Ketchikan and end in Juneau or vice versa, so you’ll have to fly in and out.

These ships stay in the Inside Passage

Because weather is iffy, especially in the Inside Passage, I would always plan to arrive at least a day earlier than the cruise line suggests (many can arrange a hotel for you). The benefit is less stress and a chance to explore your departure city.

Guide Stephan rustling up a Ptarmigan

Many people also opt for escorted land tours where all the details will be handled by the tour company. That’s how we saw Dutch Harbor.

If you plan to manage your own visit, you’ll have to book your own flights. U.S. airlines that provide service to Alaska include Alaska, American, Delta, United and Sun Country (summer only). International airlines include Air Canada, Condor and Icelandair.

In the U.S., direct flights are available from Chicago, Denver, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Minneapolis, Phoenix, Portland and Seattle.

Flying in offers great views

While flights to Alaska tend to be in the daytime, return flights from Anchorage and Fairbanks are late at night, arriving in the lower 48 in the early morning. That means the last day in Alaska is always a pain because you have time to kill between hotel check-out and departure.

Within the state, there are a number of airlines with a variety of plane types from regular commercial jets to four-seater floatplanes.

Alaska has more planes per capita than any other state

If you rent a car, it will be expensive. It always is in Alaska.

It's hard to get around on just paved roads

Book as early as you know you're going. I have encountered issues where no cars were available in mid-summer.

Most rental car companies are pretty restrictive where you are allowed to drive their cars, often not including gravel roads. Since so many roads in Alaska are gravel, this can be tough. Check your contract.

I discussed this in my section on the Dalton Highway, where I provided links to gravel-friendly rental car companies.

Also, consider the Alaska Marine Highway as you plan your itinerary. Not only can taking the ferry be a stress-free way to get from point A to point B, but the scenery is spectacular. The ferry schedules can be confusing, but if you putter around you can eventually figure it out. The biggest issue is that, sometimes, schedules publish much later than you need them to to be able to plan other aspects of your trip. It’s a balancing act.

What a view!

You can travel as a walk-on or take a vehicle. Just know that, sometimes, getting the vehicle on is tricky. Scott once had to back our car with the trailer down a long ramp and then make a 90 degree turn at the bottom. I could not have done that. I think they will do it for you if you can’t.

It's easier to drive off than on

If you’ve got the time and a great sense of adventure, drive all the way there.

We drove the ALCAN in 2013 and it is still one of my favorite trips

Any route from the lower 48 eventually connects to the Alaska Highway. That’s what it’s usually called, but a more correct name is the Alaska-Canadian Highway (ALCAN) because 1,182 of its 1,422 miles are in Canada.

And, that's not all. Coming from the lower 48, you’re going to have to drive 1,000 miles past the Canadian border to even get to the start of the ALCAN. You’ll be spending a lot of your trip in Canada.

Canada is beautiful, so spending time there is a plus!

Once legendary for being a rough, challenging drive, the ALCAN is now paved over its entire length. Its component highways are British Columbia Highway 97, Yukon Highway 1 and Alaska Route 2.

Once you get into Canada, there are not many services along the way, but it is a fun trip.

I think we took more photos of the trailer than of us

It takes at least a week to just get to Alaska, so you would want to plan plenty of time for your trip. Ours was seven weeks and we took a ferry part of the way back to cut the return time.

We took the ferry to Prince Rupert, Canada

Where will you Stay?

Unless you are driving there, it will be hard to take all the camping the gear you need. I have heard that there are companies that rent camping gear, so you might want to go that route.

When we drove, we took a small teardrop camper that had everything we needed (but no bathroom) so that we could easily unhitch it and park. We like to explore a lot by car, so a large RV is not an option for us.

Our campsite in Sitka

There are a lot of places in Alaska where an RV cannot be driven (or would be a pain to drive). But, there are also a lot of places in Alaska where you won’t need a car, such as tours, flightseeing, boat trips and remote lodges.

A funky rental from Canada

Since we took our own camper, I have not researched renting RVs in Alaska. But, I have certainly seen lots and lots of rental campers on the road, both vans and RVs. And, I know that most of them come totally equipped with cooking gear, sheets and so forth.

If you camp, you will be rewarded with lovely sites.

Many people tent camp, but I am not too crazy about the idea of a thin tent in a place with so many big, dangerous animals, so many mosquitoes and so much rain. I think trailers, RVs or vans are a much better option. Some places where Bears are common even require hard-sided campers. And, some places that normally allow tents may change policy unexpectedly if there is nearby dangerous Bear activity. Many people do tent camp, so that’s a personal decision.

Ick! Photo: TripAdvisor

We find that almost anywhere called an "RV park" is awful. There's no privacy with units packed too closely together in what is essentially a parking lot.

That's probably OK if your unit is self-contained and you spend all your time inside (why, then, are you camping?).

But, with our teardrop, we are outside most of the time. We need a place to sit, eat, cook ad build a campfire. Plus, we need a nearby bathroom. We also like to find places with showers (Denali has nice ones).

Nicer than a crowded RV park

We stay in campgrounds that allow small RVs, often in a tent site.

Make sure that you know, understand and follow campground rules, especially where it applies to Bear safety. No food in or near a tent. Ever. If your tent has had food in it, get a new one.

Also, keep anything scented, such as toothpaste, gum or flavored drinks out of your tent.

Use Bear boxes when directed. Often, they are safer than leaving things in your car. And, lock your car when you are not around. Yes, National Parks tend to be safe, but Bears can (and do!) open car doors.

You don't want that; Photo: Anchorage Daily News

I always suggest reservations for camping, but sometimes you can get lucky and find a nice place.

To camp, you really just need to know what your plan is and what kind of camping would work for you. Three Internet sites for booking campsites are Recreation.gov, ReserveAmerica and, for Denali, ReserveDenali.

Recreation.gov is the official booking engine for sites located on federal lands, including National Parks. ReserveAmerica also has access to the federal database, but also includes state and private parks.

Alaska is full of extraordinary all-inclusive lodges that cater to whatever your interests might be: Bear viewing, fishing, hunting, Puffin-watching, whatever.

Silver Salmon Creek Lodge is all about the Bears!

Most of the lodges provide accommodations, meals, transportation and guides. It is a great way to see remote locations. I have written about ones that I have visited: Bettles Lodge, The Farm Lodge, Katmai Wilderness Lodge, Silver Salmon Creek Lodge. The Internet has many, many more. Just know that they can be pricey and they often book out years in advance. They also sometimes have cancellations, so get on a waiting list if you can’t get in.

Bettles Lodge is all about the scenery (and, in winter, the aurora)

Denali, Glacier Bay, Katmai, Kenai Fjords, Lake Clark and Wrangell-St. Elias National Parks all have lodges within their perimeters.

The Kennicott Lodge in Wrangell-St. Elias

There are also all-inclusive tours (such as birding tours) and hunting/fishing guides that are not affiliated with a specific physical lodge, but who handle all the detail of the trip, usually including transportation, meals, guiding and lodging.

If fishing or hunting, work with your guide to make sure that you have the appropriate licenses and permits.

Scott fishing at the Farm Lodge

There are lots of different type of places to stay (from the ridiculous to the sublime) and I’ve stayed in many. I usually book mine through Booking.com and I have almost always been very pleased. My success rate with VRBO has been less than stellar.

Lately Booking.com has been a little, shall we say, less honest up front about the real cost of an accommodation, so read closely when booking, especially if you are booking a condo or house. They have adopted the VRBO model, where the price shown is the base rate, not including fees and taxes, which can be up to 30 percent more. This isn’t the “not totally upfront” part; hotels do this, too. It’s the cleaning fees, which can often be hundreds of dollars, even for a one-night stay.

This condo advertised for $254 for two nights actually racks up at $420

Since the cleaning fees are usually a set amount, they are exorbitant for one night and totally reasonable if you are staying a week or more. Just read everything carefully.

Also, check and re-check the dates; sometimes the websites re-set as you are looking at multiple locations. I have accidentally booked the wrong dates (or the right dates in the wrong year!).

And, finally, check cancellation policies. I often opt to pay the slightly higher fee for a refundable rate because I know that Alaska weather can wreck travel plans. I have found, generally, that hotels are very helpful when there are weather problems.

Would you fly in this?

I always include the policies on the itinerary I put together so I know quickly how much flexibility I have if plans change. I also include an email address and phone number on my itinerary. Lots of Alaska has sketchy Internet and/or poor phone service. You should have multiple ways to contact the accommodation if plans change.

Gotta get in!

Lately, I have had a couple of rentals that send access information (door codes, key locations, etc.) via email the day before. This is tough when you are traveling or are out of Internet service areas. If that is going to be a problem, make alternate plans with the renter in advance. It is no fun standing outside a building in the dark trying to figure out how to get in.

Restaurants are expensive (and I don't like to waste time eating). We like to get up and out early and often nothing opens for breakfast until 8:00 a.m.

When we travel, we like to get a room with a kitchen, if we can

We like cabins and, sometimes, find them on booking.com. More often, they’re just through Internet listings. Most of the lodges we have stayed at have cabins (as opposed to hotel-type rooms), Brooks Camp has cute little cabins and there are lots of commercial cabin options near the entrance of Denali National Park. Cabins on U.S. land can be found on recreation.gov. Just look around until you see something you like.

Cabins we have stayed in

In some areas, especially around Girdwood, which is a ski area in the winter, condos are a good option. But, look carefully at the listing. One we stayed in in Alyeska recently was actually half a condo with a nice kitchen, but a bed that completely filled the living room and no TV. In fact, TVs (or TVs that actually get signal) aren’t a given in Alaska. Lots of places still have no cable service. Some places have no Internet or Wi-Fi and, because of a cable cut, Dutch Harbor had nothing!

This place in Girdwood was one of the nicest we've stayed in

In larger areas, like Anchorage, Fairbanks, Seward and so forth, there are many hotels and motels to choose from. We spend little time in our room, so we like to balance amenities with cost. We’ve had hits and we’ve had misses. But, the hotel is not the point of the visit.

As I mentioned, finding restaurants can be tricky in out-of-the-way areas or off season, so consider taking a small cooler (or buying one when you arrive). But, there are some great dining options.

We do eat well; Photos: Scott Stevens

The top food to get in Alaska is, without question, Salmon and Halibut, with Dungeness or King Crab coming in right behind. We almost always go to Varly’s Swiftwater Seafood Café in Whittier for fish ‘n chips and, sometimes, seafood chowder. It’s just a modest place, but the seafood is hyper-fresh (the restaurant is practically on the dock) and delicious.

Ray’s Waterfront in Seward is nice for something a little more upscale, but the town has lots and lots of options. The Double Musky in Girdwood is, inexplicably, Cajun. But, it has good seafood and a very funky vibe.

A nice Double Musky dinner

Most towns have good variety and some just have a few spots to eat. I’ve had great Mexican food in Ketchikan; perogies in Juneau; and Thai, Indian and Korean food in Fairbanks. Mid-summer options are rich; off season can be tricky.

What Should You Pack?

Packing for Alaska is, like almost everything else, ruled by weather, which, in turn, is ruled by latitude, elevation and proximity to the ocean. Check both averages and forecasts before you go and then pack for that plus add some things for contingency. Regardless of when you go, prepare for rain, wind and cold. I covered some of this in my first post, but that was so long ago. So, I'm repeating the important stuff.

Can't say it too often; Layers!

If you visit Alaska in winter, you need to prepare well. Layers are essential so that you can take off or put on clothes to deal with external temperature and internal temperatures.

There is nothing worse than dressing for a sub-zero day only to get stuck in a room, plane or vehicle heated to 78°F.

Also, layers are actually warmer because air trapped between layers acts as a natural insulator. Since you'll be layering, make sure your clothes aren't too tight, especially the outer layers.

You might look like the Michelin Tire Man, but at least you’ll be able to move.

For the far north, bring a parka with a lightweight, wind- and weather-resistant shell and a well-insulated liner. Bright colors are more visible and safer in snowy environments. Traditionally, Arctic travelers wear red.

Scott got the memo

Plan to layer pants: thermal underwear, fleece pants, sturdy fast-dry trousers and wind/rain, ski or snow pants. Jeans are generally not a good idea because they don’t dry quickly. The same goes for shirts: plan several layers of lightweight shirts made from wicking material (not cotton) rather than bulky sweatshirts or sweaters.

Because much of Alaska is windy and wind creates wind chill, make sure your jacket and outer pants are windproof. Make sure they are also waterproof, but breathable.

To keep hands warm, you’ll need warm mittens. This is critical; gloves will not do the trick because you need that trapped air for insulation.

Photo: Heat Source

But, it’s hard to do anything with your hands in mittens, so you’ll need thin polypropylene gloves underneath. I like mittens that fold open, so you can use your hands without taking the mittens off. Otherwise, shooting pictures will be difficult. Oh, and bring an extra pair of each in case you lose one (or more).

Hugh Rose in a qiviut hat (with a Jay on his head)

Of course, you’ll need a hat, wool or fleece, that protects your ears. If you are going somewhere really cold or really windy, consider taking a balaclava or, at least, have scarves you can wrap around your neck and face.

Sturdy wool (or other thick material) socks worn over a thin pair of silk, polypropylene or cotton/wool socks should provide enough insulation, but they will be less effective if your shoes are snug.

If you’ll be wearing rubber boats (some lodges and tours provide them), bring insoles and liners to keep them warm, comfy and dry. Otherwise, bring sturdy, warm boots with waffle soles. I also bring crampons to deal with icy surfaces.

Rubber boots and crampons make walking safer

Even though the days are short, you might need sunglasses, especially if it is snowy. Ditto for sunblock and lip balm.

A nice sweater is a good to have

I have been talking about outdoor clothes; you will also spend time indoors and will need lighter-weight clothes and a pair of light shoes.

When I went to Fairbanks in winter for business, I dressed in a nice suit and fashionable boots. Then, I realized that no one else was dressing that way. They were dressing to stay alive. Do that.

For spring and fall and for trips north, you need to be prepared for cold, rain and snow, so the ideas above generally apply. Just be ready for pleasant days where a light jacket will do.

This is September!

In the summer, the interior can get very hot, so take lightweight clothes. Since this is also mosquito season, you may still want long sleeves and long pants. Mosquito nets and insect repellent are musts.

Yep! He's wearing short sleeves and shorts!

If you plan to go anywhere near Chena Hot Springs, take a bathing suit. You just might want to enjoy a soak! Elsewhere, most of the water is too, too cold for swimming. One of my cruises offered both stand-up paddleboarding and snorkeling. No one lasted more than a few minutes.

Unless you're a Sea Lion, you probably won't swim

If you are going to be on the water or near a glacier, it can be quite cold, even in mid-summer. Layers!

Regardless of season, take a camera. A good camera. The place is gorgeous and the animals are amazing. If you use a cell phone for photos, remember that some animals may be too far away for good shots. Don’t approach wild animals too close to get a photo. If you are using a cell phone, be mindful of other folks when taking photos. Pull those elbows in and keep the phone close. Don’t block other people who are also trying to take photos.

A decent camera with a long lens is a must in my book

If you are an influencer, just stay home! Well, that may be harsh, but on my last trip, there was a woman on my Kenai Fjords boat trip who spent the entire time in the prime viewing areas, facing away from the view to take her own photo, often with outstretched arms. Basically, she was blocking everyone else to get pictures of herself. No, I didn’t push her overboard. Thought about it. Didn’t do it. Might next time.

When it is cold, camera batteries die fast. Very fast. Make sure you have extra.