Saturday, June 13, 2015

Solo Camping

After Caty and I had our Moosecapade ... 

One of many
... it was just too nice to go home. But, Caty had to work. So, I decided that I would find a camping spot on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park (for a different experience), park the Little Guy, take Caty home (Fort Collins is less than two hours from RMNP) and come back.

After recrossing Trail Ridge (which was OK with the Little Guy, even on the "scary edge"), we checked on campgrounds. Aspenglen was full. Moraine Park had a few spots, but I didn't know if I could maneuver the Little Guy into them and the campground seemed very crowded and close. So, even though I had remembered not being impressed with Glacier Basin, we checked it out. What a good call.

My spot
I got a site that had a pull up (not exactly a pull-through). It was a bit confusing where I was supposed to park, but we figured it out. Then, after I had unhooked and pulled away, I discovered that the block that the trailer rests on was on a rock, making it unstable. So, I had to re-hook and reset everything. A pain, but I finally got it done.

My view
Even though Glacier Basin has limited shade, I had a tree at my site. And. A. Fantastic. View. I will go back to this campground. It is gorgeous. And, at 8,800 ft., it's a bit cooler if the days get hot.

Nice!
The air was exceptionally clear, making the view all the more spectacular.

Can't beat it
Once we had lunch, I drove Caty home, took a shower (ahhhhhhh), unloaded her stuff and headed back. The traffic going to RMNP was very light, so it was a relatively quick trip. I even made it back in time to build a fire ...

A blissful evening
... and contemplate the stars ...

A blissful night
Then a great night's sleep, a yummy pancake breakfast and a hike.

Through the woods
I decided that I had done enough animal searching and I needed to be out of the car. It was sunny and the prospects for hiking looked good.


I started out going from the campground to Sprague Lake. 

The trail is lovely -- only a slight rise, through trees and occasionally through a shallow stream, which is probably not there most of the time. 

Although the Ranger said that I would see Elk and Deer, I didn't. Sprague Lake is very pretty ...

Sprague Lake
... from both directions ...

The other side
As I headed to my next trailhead, I encountered a Canada Goose family -- I had to make a wide detour off the paved trail (Sprague Lake is highly accessible, even having an accessible backcountry campsite) to avoid the Geese.

Mr. Goose hissed at me
As I started up the trail to Glacier Gorge, a woman from Kansas pointed out a Moose! Yes, the famous Sprague Lake Moose. She was munching the willows and a bit tricky to photograph. I saw no evidence of a calf (but, she may have been the Moose that had a calf last year at Sprague Lake).

Deep in the willows
After watching the Moose and chatting with a couple of folks (including a father and daughter who had seen a Bear and two cubs at Old Fall River Road that morning), I started up the trail.

The trail
The hike was very nice -- steady, but not a severe rise, tree, views of Glacier Gorge, a pond ...

Nice reflection
... streams and a pretty impressive cascade.

Rushing water
But, no animals!

After Glacier Gorge, I decided to continue up to Bear Lake. That was probably the toughest segment of the hike (actually second toughest -- more alter) because I was getting hungry, the trail was steep and the altitude was getting up there. Bear Lake is at 9,500 ft.

When I was almost to Bear Lake, I saw a sign to Alberta Falls, just 0.6 miles up. I remembered hiking there years ago with Donna Wilson, so I decided it would be a good place for a snack. 

Alberta Falls
Another good call. 

The falls were amazingly full
It was a nice stop.

Panorama
Then, on to Bear Lake where I planned to hook up with the Bierstadt Lake trail so that I could return to Glacier Basin without backtracking. I checked with the Rangers to make sure the trail was passable (many are still deep in snow). It was OK. Bear Lake was also pretty clear of snow, but very, very full.

Sunny and snowy
My trail map listed elevation gains for trails and I misread the Bierstadt info, thinking that I would be climbing another 566 ft. Turns out that that was the rise from a different trailhead. 

Gotta love the blazes
So, after a fairly steep ascent in full sun (so glad I put on sunblock; the sun is brutal at 9,500 ft.), most of the trail meandered downhill. 
I did encounter some snow and lots of mud, sometimes enough to obscure the trail. 

But, I was glad to see that RMNP marks trails with little orange reflectors. Years ago, I had momentarily lost a trail in that area of RMNP and was very concerned it would happen again. I love those orange things! I think I smiled every time I saw one (probably a good thing very few people were on the trail -- I was getting a little punchy.)

When I got to Bierstadt, I was tired, hot and hungry (I had eaten just cheese/peanut butter crackers at Alberta Falls). I was a bit dismayed that I had to walk another 1/4-1/2 mile to actually see the lake since the trail side is obscured by trees and marsh. 

The lake was so-so
But, I did find a nice rock on the edge where I could enjoy the view, eat my apple and re-apply sunblock.

But, with a pretty view
And, as I walked to the lake, I had seen the sign for the trail to the Park & Ride lot that is directly across from Glacier Basin. So, I decided to take that trail instead of the Bierstadt Trail.

Rocky!
That was the toughest part of the trip. 

It was almost all downhill, steep in many places and very rocky. 

Footing was somewhat treacherous and it was quite a workout for tired ankles.

But, I made it -- with a nice view of the campground ...

Home!
.. and stables on the way ...


Nice view
After walking across the Park & Ride lot, I saw a deer. Funny, the only animals I saw were not on the trails. Then, I walked to the campsite and took off my shoes, drank a Diet Coke, sponged off the sweat and sunblock and had some gazpacho.

Then, I took a short nap -- the hike had, after all covered 10-11 miles, lasted about seven hours and had an elevation gain/loss of about 1,200 ft. at altitude. After that, I did a quick drive around (no animals except some deer and elk) and then took a walk around the campground looking for the resident weasel (no luck). I did see a pretty Mountain Bluebird couple.

Mountain Bluebirds
I built another fire, had Caty's delicious stew for dinner, cleaned and packed and crashed.

Cozy
I woke up at 5:00 a.m. to the sound of rain. So, I hooked up -- the easiest one so far -- partially because I am getting better and partially because I had the brilliant idea of using my small snow shovel's handle as a guide to the trailer hitch.

I took the scenic (and much loner) route home because i would rather spend an extra hour in the mountains than drive through Denver traffic. 

I was rewarded with a gorgeous bull Elk
I loved the solo camping. Now when I take off on my National Park/National Monument adventures, I'll take the camper. It will give me better access to wilderness and save some money. As a "senior" with an NPS senior access card it now costs me $10 a night to camp in RMNP. What a deal!


Trip date: June 8-10, 2015

Friday, June 12, 2015

Moosecapade

Caty and I took off for a weekend at Rocky Mountain National Park (which is, by the way, celebrating its centennial this year).

Occasionally we pose by a sign
Our objective was Moose-watching -- and, wow! We had about 70 sightings, perhaps up to 60 different Moose (at minimum 40 -- it is often hard to tell if we've seen a particular Moose earlier in the day or the day before).

A young bull
It was a special weekend in many ways.

#1. It was the first time that I took our Little Guy teardrop camper out on my own. This is important because I am a notoriously bad backer -- as in I cannot back my car into the garage (although I did after I brought the Little Guy back). I have been practicing and we were fortunate to get a pull-through site. So, although there were tense moments, I did it! (and, no, in the picture below, i am not trying to hook up the wrong end  -- I pulled around to simplify food prep between the galley and the cooler).

Camping
#2. It was my first time over Trail Ridge Road this season. Caty and I normally try to go together as soon as it opens. But, it opened late and then she went for an afternoon earlier in the week. Still, it was fun to go early and see the huge snow banks.

At the top
We drove over with the trailer twice and went up the the Visitor Center once just to look.

View from the top
#3. It was my first time to camp at Timber Creek. We have avoided it before because all the trees died from pine bark beetles and were removed. So, it looks a little bleak. (Can you see our camper below?)

It's down there
But, Timber Creek sits in the middle of "Mooseville" -- the Kawuneeche Valley on the west side of RMNP -- which gave us more moose viewing time than if we had to come back over Trail Ridge before it gets too late. Sites cannot be reserved, but the west side is less visited (some folks can't stomach Trail Ridge Road and some folks can't seem to differentiate between Rocky Mountain National Park and the town of Estes Park). Historical note here: "park" used to mean valley; so Estes Park is named as a valley, not as a park. 

We got a great site -- at the back near a pond
#4. It was the first time I have camped with Caty in a long time -- and she is a great camper. Of course, we didn't take many pictures of each other.

A cow
#5. MOOSE. As I said, we saw about 60 in the course of the weekend.

#6. LOTS (LOTS!) OF MOOSE TOGETHER. At the Beaver Creek overlook, we saw 12 (or even possibly 15) within about five minutes. 

Everywhere we looked, another group walked past. It was amazing. 

How many can you see?
#7. BABY MOOSE. We saw four and they were absolutely adorable. We heard there were some brand new tiny twins in the area, but were never able to find them.

Calf and cow
#8. CLOSE-UP MOOSE. One even surprised us because we were scanning the field past her and didn't see her at first. 

That mark on her side appears to be missing fur
#9. SCENERY. The weekend was insanely clear and crisp. Perhaps the ONLY three days in a row this summer with minimal rain. With snow still on the mountains ...

This is why they are called the Neversummer Mountains
... vast expanses of bright yellow dandelions ...

Yummy for the Moose and Elk
Reflection
... and creeks overflowing their banks, 
we had ample opportunities for gorgeous shots. 

There is still a lot of beetle kill and the willows and aspens are just leafing out, but the other factors mitigated those issues.

#10. MOOSE IN SCENIC SETTINGS. The scenery is even better when there's a moose in it.
Grazing
#10. MOOSE WITH ANTLERS. We traditionally see more females than males -- and this weekend was no different. We have heard that the big boys tend to hang at the southern end of the park and out of the park in Grand Lake, but we didn't see any there this time. Plus, most of the boys just have antler nubs this time of year. But, we did see two with what will probably be spectacular racks this fall.

On his way
#11. RECORD-SETTING SIGHTINGS. Our previous best day was 16 Moose. On Saturday, we saw 21 and, on Sunday, we saw 36!

So, so many Moose
#12. BABY ELK. as exciting as moose are, we can't discount RMNP's numerous Elk, especially at calving season. We saw several cuties. 

Mama and baby
One crossed the road with its mom right in front of us -- Caty got out to photograph them as I pulled the car into the Holzwarth Parking area. 

Such a cute calf
By the time the mom had gotten down the embankment, she had hidden the calf and we never saw it again. That's how Deer and Elk protect their babies -- they tuck the babies away in bushes or high grass and leave them for hours as they graze. The fawns have no scent and are instinctively quiet, which keeps them safe.

A new one
(NOTE: IF YOU STUMBLE UPON WHAT APPEARS TO BE AN ABANDONED FAWN, LEAVE IT ALONE. IT IS MOST LIKELY NOT ABANDONED.)  When moms want their babies, they call to them, and out they pop from the bushes (we saw this happen). We also saw a couple of tiny ones -- including one near the road and a couple swimming with their moms. 

In the river
Oddly, almost all the moms we saw were collared -- but most of the female Elk are not collared.

Mom and baby
#13. SCENIC ELK. It's not only Moose that enhance RMNP's fabulous scenery. 

The Elk do a pretty good job, too
#14. ELK IN OUR CAMPGROUND. 

Almost all the time and everywhere
#15. OTHER WILDLIFE ... including a sunning marmot ...

Typical at high elevations
... and a very perky Grey-headed Dark-eyed Junco ...

Looking a little annoyed (they always do)
... lots of Elk ...

Grazing
#16. And the coup de grace, A MOOSE RIGHT BY OUR CAMPSITE. On our final morning as we made breakfast. 

Breakfast buddy
Up close. Very cool.

Just chilling behind our spot
She was a beauty.

Ready for her close-up
That's a pretty sweet 16.

So, what's the deal with Moose in Colorado? They may not have originally lived here, but a dozen were introduced in 1978 near Walden. For reasons, not fully understood, the Colorado moose population has taken off while Moose populations dwindle in Montana, Wyoming and Minnesota.

A successful introduction
According the Denver PostColorado's moose population topped 2,300 in 2013, up 35 percent over the previous two years, beyond the state's latest target maximum number.

Just two of many
The article said that Montana is conducting a 10-year study to try to find out what's happening. In Wyoming, a brain-attacking worm is suspected as a factor as a population that once topped 2,000 has declined to several hundred. Another positive factor for Colorado may be the relative lack of natural predators in our high country. Colorado wildlife biologists say they've documented only a few cases of Black Bears and Mountain Lions killing small Moose. Of course, Grizzlies live in Montana and Wyoming.

In Colorado, the success of Moose -- which are now being sighted more and more frequently on the east side of the Rockies now, when they used to be seen almost exclusively on the west -- will probably lead to more Moose hunting -- and more conflicts with people.

A Moose cow
The article said that the fatal chronic wasting disease has been detected in some moose, leading to a requirement that all moose killed by hunters in Colorado be tested.

According to the National Park Service: 

Moose (Alces alces) are the largest members of the deer family. On average, an adult moose stands between five and seven feet high at the shoulder. Large males can weigh as much as 1,500 pounds ...

Bull
... while females are roughly three-quarters of this size. 

Cow
Both sexes have chocolate-brown fur (my note: the fur varies from lightish brown to almost black -- and their hind legs can be almost white), a humped shoulder, a bulbous nose and a ball of skin, called a "bell," that hangs from their neck. Note: usually this "bell" is called a "dewlap."

The dewlap or bell is prominent here
The long legs of Moose allow them to travel through deep snow and even swim in deep water. They also use their legs to kick predators or maneuver over obstacles on the ground.

Walking
Males, called bulls, grow large palmate antlers which can reach five feet across and weigh up to 77 pounds. Bulls use antlers during the fall mating season to spar or fight with other males as they compete for mates. 

Only males have antlers
Females, called cows, do not have antlers, but they select a bull based on his antler size.

After the mating season, bulls begin dropping their antlers in the late fall to conserve energy for the winter. The antlers begin to grow again in early spring. They take three to five months to fully develop and are covered with velvety skin during this time. The size and growth of antlers depends on diet and age. Symmetrical antlers reflect the general health of the bull. Antlers typically grow back larger each year.

Moose reflection
Moose are usually solitary, unlike most other members of the Deer family. (NOTE: That's why our sightings were so spectacular.) They aren't territorial and tolerate other animals in their area. They rarely travel with more than one or two other moose, but cows exhibit the strongest bonds with their calves and are extremely protective of them. 

A calf checking us out
Females have an eight month gestation period and will usually bear one or two calves in early summer. Newborn Moose have a reddish hue to their fur when born and will stay with their mother for a year.

A cute calf
Moose are generally browsers and eat leaves, stems, buds and bark of woody shrubs and trees. The prefer willow, aspen and aquatic plants (remember they can swim). 

See how high the river was
Aquatic plants are high in protein and sodium. Like Bighorn Sheep, they seek mineral licks to replenish mineral and sodium reserves depleted in the winter.

Moose can eat up to 70 pounds of food per day. They remember their favorite feeding areas and predictably return to favorite seasonal habitats. Some studies show that moose have returned to the same clump of willow shrubs on almost the same day of winter each year. Moose live between 15-25 years.

By the stream
Bulls and cows are equally unpredictable. During the mating season, bull moose are known to charge and females are particularly protective of calves at all times. Moose can top speeds of 35 miles per hour. 

Running
If you see a Moose display a threatening position of "head high" or "head low," it is time to retreat.

Looking at me
The Denver Post article said that Colorado Parks and Wildlife officials are worried that Moose moving closer to people on foothills hiking trails could result in more conflicts.

In 2006, former Grand Lake Mayor Louis Heckert was killed by an 800-pound bull Moose as he walked to church. A moose trampled a toddler in Grand County in 2010. A few hikers have been stomped and injured severely, requiring hospitalization. The article said that dogs can incite moose because moose see them as predators. Of course, we saw lots of people with dogs, many of whom seemed oblivious to the fact that their precious pets could be endangering everyone in the vicinity.

But, we try to be safe and almost all the Moose we saw were only marginally interested in us.

Another looking my way
And, we were very interested in them.

So fun
What a Moosecapade!


Trip date: June 6-7, 2015