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| Lake Clark National Park |
In my last post, I talked about three of Alaska's eight National Parks – the ones you can reach via road. In this post, I will cover three more, which, with varying degrees of remoteness, require some extra steps and planning to visit.
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| This post's targets |
Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve
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| Me at the Johns Hopkins glacier in Glacier Bay National Park |
Glacier Bay National Park (not to be confused with Glacier National Park in Montana) may actually belong on my other list of easily accessible Alaska National Parks because it is visited frequently by cruise ships and because there are multiple options to get there that I will talk about shortly. But, it cannot be reached via road.
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| Cruise ship in the Bay |
Nestled at the upper end of the Inside Passage, Glacier Bay National Park features seven tidewater glaciers descending from high snow-capped mountains.
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| Four of the glaciers actively calve icebergs into the Bay |
Most of Glacier Bay National Park is water surrounded by steep mountains covered with dense rain forest or alder thickets. There are no roads and few trails.
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| Thick rain forest foliage |
The Park is named for its 1,045 glaciers, which comprise 27 percent of the 5,037-square-mile Park. The seven tidewater glaciers in the Park are: Margerie, Grand Pacific, McBride, Lamplugh, Johns Hopkins, Gilman and LaPerouse. In the 1990s, the Muir Glacier receded to the point that it was no longer a tidewater glacier. According to the U.S. National Park Service, "In general, tidewater and terrestrial glaciers in the Park have been thinning and slowly receding over the last several decades."
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| Terrestrial glacier |
Some glaciers continue to advance, including Johns Hopkins Glacier and glaciers in Lituya Bay.
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| Johns Hopkins Glacier |
The area is interesting because the Bay was formed quickly and now the glaciers are retreating quickly. It was created when glaciers rapidly advanced. According to the Hoonah people who lived there, the glacier moved "as fast as a dog runs," requiring them to make a hasty evacuation across the bay to where the town of Hoonah now stands.
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| Hoonah village before the surge; Art: NPS |
The fast-moving ice gouged out a deep bay in the mid 1700s and completely filled it with ice. In 1794, the Vancouver expedition found Icy Strait, at the south end of Glacier Bay, choked with ice and the bay itself almost entirely covered by one large tidewater glacier.
In 1879, John Muir found that the ice had retreated almost all the way up the bay, about 48 miles. By 1916, the Grand Pacific Glacier was at the head of Tarr Inlet about 65 miles from Glacier Bay's mouth. This is the fastest documented glacier retreat ever and they are still shrinking.
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| John Muir and companion in icier times; Photo: NPS |
This can be complex because the ferry does not run every day, so you have to arrange accommodations and activities around the ferry schedule – and, the Alaska ferry schedules sometimes are not released very far in advance.
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| The ferry to Gustavus, the gateway to Glacier Bay |
You can either ferry as a walk-on or take a car, which is nice for exploring.
You can also fly, but, like so much of Alaska's Inside Passage, Glacier Bay National Park is prone to fog.
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| Both beautiful and infuriating for a photographer |
In fact, it's been foggy every time I've gone: twice on a small ship cruise, once on a package trip (where our planned flight was cancelled and we had to go by ferry) and once with our car via ferry.
Juneau is also prone to fog, so any planning to go to Glacier Bay not by cruise ship should have padding and contingency plans.
But, don't let all that dissuade you.
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| It's a beautiful Park with stunning glaciers and lots of wildlife |
While Glacier Bay is open year-round, visitor services are extremely limited outside of the summer season, and nearly everybody who visits comes between May and September.
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| A local gas station |
The biggest "must do" activity is to cruise the Bay to get up close to the glaciers. Because it is a protected area, the number of boats allowed in the Bay at any time is heavily restricted. The cruise ships (both mega ships like Princess and Holland America and small ships like UnCruise) pick up National Park Service naturalists to conduct the tours as they move through the Bay.
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| A mega ship and (look close) a tour boat in front of a glacier |
Typically, only two large ships visit per day, spending about four hours in the Bay. The small ships generally spend more time.
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| Map: NPS |
Operated daily from June through Labor Day, the high-speed catamaran tour through Glacier Bay is conducted by a Park Ranger Naturalist.
The boat leaves the dock at Glacier Bay Lodge on Bartlett Cove at 7:15 a.m. and takes roughly eight hours to travel 130 miles through Glacier Bay.
The current price – $262.44 for teens and adults and $137.11 for children aged three to 12 – includes lunch and beverages.
The tour explores the narrow waterway that was under a river of ice only 250 years ago.
The boat cruises very close to the small isolated Marble Island for a close-up look at a variety of seabirds.
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| Left: Pigeon Guillemot and Tufted Puffin; Right: Bald Eagle |
But, the big attraction is Steller Sea Lions that haul out on flat, smooth rocks to warm up after feeding nearby in the cold water. There are often more that 300 Sea Lions clustered on the rocks together, growling and roaring as they wrestle for the best resting spot.
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| Steller Sea Lion haulout |
Land animals that can be seen include Mountain Goats, Black Bears, Brown (Grizzly) Bears, Moose and Wolves, but sightings are fairly rare and often far, far away.
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| We did see a (far away) Grizzly quite close to a group of kayakers |
Most of the terrestrial wildlife returned recently to this landscape, recolonizing after the retreat of the glaciers. Mountain Goats, however, probably lived on the peaks even when the Bay was filled with ice.
Marine mammals, in addition to Sea Lions, include ...
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| Sea Otters; this one is being checked out by a Black-legged Kittiwake |
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| Harbor Seals |
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| Humpback Whales |
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| Close to shore, especially at low tide, you might glimpse some Ochre Sea Stars |
Just like in Kenai Fjords, you often encounter ice in many forms – from bergs to brash – when you get within 20 miles of the glaciers.
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| Approaching the glacier |
At that point, the vegetation also changes. The closer to the glaciers, the more recently the shorelines emerged from under glacier ice.
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| Much of the exposed rock bears scratches and gouges inflicted by advancing and retreating ice |
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| This is as sunny as it ever got for us |
As I mentioned when talking about Kenai Fjords, you might encounter clear skies near the glaciers, even if the rest of the area is foggy. Still, expect this trip to be damp and chilly.
The tour visits the Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers, two towering masses of ice and snow rising 245 feet above the ocean and stretching another 100 feet beneath the water.
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| Top of a glacier |
The boat spends at least a half an hour at each, so that you can hear the cracking, popping and booming and, most of the time, see the glacier calving into the water.
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| A pile of ice from a recent calving |
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| A view from the boat |
The ice that calves from the face of the two glaciers is an average of 200 years old. When I went, we also stopped at Johns Hopkins Glacier.
Onboard, the NPS conducts Junior Ranger activities. The Day Boat also operates a camper drop-off service, which offers campers and their kayaks (as needed) a drop-off at two locations in Glacier Bay. Camper drop-off or pick-up service is $139.00 plus taxes and fees; extra fees apply for kayaks.
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| Picking up kayakers |
Glacier Bay also permits a limited number of private vessels, including sailboats, yachts, cabin cruisers and skiffs to visit. A private vessel must not have any paid crew, otherwise, it is considered a commercial vessel and managed differently by the Park.
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| A yacht and a sailboat visiting the Bay |
Kayakers can launch from Bartlett Cove or use the camper drop-off service to begin a trip further upbay, closer to the Park's iconic tidewater glaciers. Guided day trips and overnight kayak trips are available.
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| A good way to see Alaska |
This is prime Humpback territory. But, because Glacier Bay has stricter-than-normal restrictions about approaching/viewing marine mammals, the boat tour is not a particularly good Whale watching experience. Yes, you might see some, but don't expect much close-up viewing.
I recommend staying at least two nights at the Park and taking the NPS Bay cruise one day ...
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| Out on the Bay |
... and a commercial Whale-watching trip on another.
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| Whale watching |
The commercial trip can go in the Park or stay outside depending on where the Whales are.
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| Humpbacks right outside the Bay |
So, where should you stay?
Glacier Bay National Park is adjacent to the small town of Gustavus, which has a few inns and campgrounds.
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| A cozy retreat right on Bartlett Cove |
... and the very lovely Bartlett Cove Campground with spacious wooded sites tucked under extremely tall trees. Even though we took our trailer with us when we went by ferry, we didn't camp, opting instead to stay at the Lodge. One reason we made this decision was that, unlike at most National Parks, Bartlett Cove camping is first-come-first-served. That seemed risky coming in on a ferry.
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| If you camp, be aware that it probably will be wet! |
The Lodge rooms are rustic, but pleasant. Like everything else in Alaska, they aren't cheap, but they aren't as crazy as other National Parks. The most recent price I saw was $260 per night. The Lodge has a nice dining room that serves lunch and dinner.
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| Nice rooms and yummy food; Right photos: NPS and Ranger John |
The funky little town of Gustavus has some cool historic buildings ...
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| Gustavus has a population of 650 |
... and some restaurants ..
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| Don't miss the local food! |
We enjoyed having a car there so that we could see more of the area than just where we could walk.
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| Nice to have wheels |
In addition to the cruise and Whale watching, you can hike ...
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| Scenes from around the Lodge |
... or just walk along the rock beach at Bartlett Cove and watch Whales cavorting from the shore.
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| I took this from the beach! |
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| I also took this from the beach (a juvenile Bald Eagle) |
It is gorgeous both day ...
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| Bartlett Cove |
... and evening ...
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| In the summer, evening is golden |
So, even when you are not in Glacier Bay, a visit is a treat.
Lake Clark National Park and Preserve
Now, we're moving toward the more remote, less-visited, more-difficult-and-more-expensive-to get-to Parks. And, while tough to visit, I can highly recommend Lake Clark National Park and Preserve for two simple reasons ...
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| Stunning scenery |
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| Bears! Lots of Bears! |
Need I say more?
Well, I guess I should say a little more since I am giving recommendations for travel. "Go there!" doesn't seem like quite enough detail.
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| Map: Road Travel America |
The National Park, the seventh largest of the nation's 63 Parks, comprises 4,063 square miles and the Preserve is another 2,188 square miles.
A vast and largely undeveloped wilderness, Lake Clark National Park protects rainforests along the coastline of Cook Inlet, alpine tundra, glaciers, glacial lakes and major salmon-bearing rivers.
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| Beautiful Alaskan scenery |
It also protects two prominent Alaskan volcanoes, Mount Redoubt and Mount Iliamna. Mount Redoubt is active, last erupting in 1989 and 2009.
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| Mount Redoubt from the air |
The wide variety of ecosystems mean that virtually all major Alaskan animals, terrestrial and marine, may be seen in and around the Park.
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| An Alaskan Moose feeding in a lake |
Salmon, particularly Sockeye Salmon, play a major role in the ecosystem and the local economy. Large populations of Brown Bears are attracted to feed on the spawning Salmon in the Kijik River and at Silver Salmon Creek.
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| We'll get to Silver Salmon Creek in a minute |
Long, thin Lake Clark, the sixth largest lake in Alaska, is 860 feet deep and 42 miles long, but only five miles wide.
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| The Park's namesake |
If you fly into Lake Clark, you can arrive by wheeled aircraft, tundra plane or floatplane.
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| Port Alsworth is on Lake Clark |
Five other settlements are nearby, populated mainly by the Dena'ina, whose people have inhabited the area for 10,000 years.
Prior to the Park's initial establishment in 1978, isolated cabins were scattered around the region, the most well-known belonging to Richard Proenneke, whose films documenting his solitary life at Twin Lakes were made into a film called Alone in the Wilderness in 2003.
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| Dick Proenneke in his cabin |
While both sport and subsistence hunting are permitted in the National Preserve lands, only subsistence hunting by local residents is permitted within the National Park. That's why many Alaskan Parks have adjoining Preserves.
There are a number of ways to explore the Lake Clark National Park. We've been a few times for multi-day stays and once for a day-long fly-in Bear-viewing trip.
We have twice been to The Farm Lodge in Port Alsworth on Hardenberg Bay on Lake Clark.
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| The Farm Lodge |
The Lodge is owned and operated by the Alsworth family that originally homesteaded the area. They also own Lake Clark Air and have incorporated flying into stays at the lodge.
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| A great way to explore the wilderness |
We purchased a package that included the flights to and from the Lodge from Anchorage plus several days of exploring via floatplane and tundra plane. The Lodge also offers guided fishing and hiking opportunities.
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| Lake Clark Pass |
Transport to and from the Lodge is one of the major events of a visit to The Farm Lodge. The flights are on small planes that fly through (not over) Lake Clark Pass, which separates the Neacola and Chigmit Mountain ranges.
The pass is at an elevation of 1,050 feet above sea level, more than 9,000 feet below the peak of Mt. Redoubt, which towers over the pass to the south.
I won’t kid you, flying through a narrow pass on a small plane is bumpy, but it’s a short flight.
And, flying below the peaks is incomparable.
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| Phenomenal scenery |
Of course, it is a bit dangerous. On one of our trips, the plane we had just disembarked from was clipped by another plane flying too close above it on its return to Anchorage. Both planes made it safely back, but the incident underscored how tricky it is to fly in that area.
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| Scott riding in the co-pilot seat (but not doing any flying) |
If you don't like small planes, this trip may not be for you. I love 'em and this small plane trip is among the best you can experience.
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| Me with a tundra plane |
The Lodge is lovely ...
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| It is in a beautiful setting ... |
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| ... and has nice cabins ... |
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| ... a beautiful common area ... |
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| ... and tasty meals featuring lots of locally grown produce (the rhubarb jam!!!!) |
The owner and host, Glen, is delightful. He served as our pilot for most of our flights.
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| Glen has an obvious passion for flying |
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| Scott deplaning on Lake #1 |
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| Left: Lake #2 all alone; Right: They came to get me! |
Glen did tell me that he had filed a flight plan, so if he and Scott didn't come to get me, someone would (eventually!).
Another time, when flying on a tundra plane, we came upon a bachelor herd of Caribou with huge antlers.
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| Glen told us that you can attract Caribou by waving a white cloth. It worked! |
During these flights, we saw ...
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| ... vast expanses of tundra ... |
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| ... jagged peaks ... |
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| ... gorgeous secluded lakes ... |
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| ... waterfalls ... |
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| ... and glaciers |
We landed ...
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| ... in fields ... |
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| ... on lakes ... |
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| ... and on gravel bars in glacier rivers |
We saw, infrequently, animals and, frequently, traces of animals.
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| We saw lots of antlers and footprints and an occasional Caribou |
Scott fished several times during our visits – a few times just briefly as part of the plane adventures and once on a guided boat trip.
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| Scott's happy place |
Depending on the time year, you can fish for Arctic Char, Arctic Grayling, Lake Trout, Dolly Varden, Northern Pike, Rainbow Trout and Salmon.
While Scott was fishing, I hiked to Tanalian Falls, which is about two miles from the Lodge. It's an easy hike through the birch/spruce forest ...
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| Quite different from the forests near Kenai Fjords and Glacier Bay |
... to a very pretty waterfall that drops over a 30-foot cliff of ancient lava.
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| It tumbles over and splits around a rock |
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| I didn't see any critters |
Now that I've been to Alaska (and Yellowstone) a number of times, I am beginning to question the wisdom of hiking there alone, which I have done quite a few times.
I didn't encounter any Bears on my way to the falls, but I did see some very fresh scat which looked like it was from a Bear.
Glen told us that Brown Bears are seldom seen around Port Alsworth. But, still, I think I will no longer venture out alone in Bear country.
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| You don't want to surprise a Bear |
Both times we stayed at The Farm Lodge we also got to experience Katmai National Park, which I will cover next. Glen flew us to Brooks Falls for some incredible Bear viewing without having to wrangle for Brooks Camp reservations or pay super high-dollar fly-in costs. Yes, we were paying high dollar for Glen to fly us around, but an advantage was that the first day we went, there were no Bears at the Falls (we found out from Rangers without having to hike). So, we didn't hang around, instead going somewhere else. As we left, we saw a Bear swim across Naknek Lake toward the Falls.
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| It was a long swim |
Glen said that meant they would probably start arriving the next day. We returned two days later and saw Bears! So, no wasted flight.
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| The Bears show up when the Salmon shows up |
Speaking of Bears, Scott and I have also twice stayed at the Silver Salmon Creek Lodge, an absolutely fabulous place to get really close to Alaskan Brown Bears.
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| It's all about the Bears! |
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| Right on the ocean |
The Lodge, which sits on the east coast of Lake Clark National Park on Cook Inlet, offers "fully catered" stays (cabins, Bear guides and meals), which is what we did, and remote tent camping (no thanks! it's Bear country).
The Lodge also offers guided lake and stream fishing and boat trips for Halibut fishing during the appropriate seasons.
Scott briefly fished there the first time we went when Salmon were running and enjoyed it quite a bit.
However, stream fishing can be tricky; sometimes the Bears steal the catch! As a result, you have to be wary and be willing to sacrifice your hard-earned fish if the Bears come calling.
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| He caught this one before Bears arrived |
Silver Salmon Creek Lodge also offers sightseeing and birding, including a phenomenal boat trip to see Puffins.
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| We saw Horned Puffins, one of two Pacific species |
This, too, is seasonal. The first time we went, which was in mid-September, the Puffins had already gone back to sea after nesting, so there was no birding.
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| Puffins spend most of their lives on the open ocean |
The second time, in early June, the Puffins were just building nests.
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| They either dig burrows or nestle into rocks on steep cliffs |
The island we visited was rough and rocky ...
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| Horned Puffin on a cliff |
... but covered in early summer wildflowers...
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| An art director couldn't top this |
Plus, on the boat trip to the island ...
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| Our ride |
... we got to see mind-boggling numbers of Common Murres.
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| Literally thousands! |
Such a treat!
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| Gotta love Puffins |
But, let's get back to the Bears and the Lodge.
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| The Lodge and a visitor |
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| Flying in |
The first time we visited, no one mentioned in advance that there is no airstrip. Rather, the plane lands on the beach in front of the Lodge. Once I figured out what was happening, it was fine, but it was a bit disconcerting to be descending without a landing strip in sight.
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| Coming in for a landing |
Our first visit to Silver Salmon Creek was just plain lucky. I was planning a spur-of-the-moment trip for mid-September and was trying to find a Bear Lodge. But, it was too late in the season and everything was shutting down. Initially, SSC Lodge's owner, David Coray, told me they wouldn't be able to accommodate us. But, then, he changed his mind and offered us an option to come even though the Lodge was technically closed.
We knew it would be good before we even touched down (on the beach!) because we saw a Bear as we were flying in!
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| Such a cool sight |
It was fantastic! Scott and I were the only guests. Most of the staff was either gone or busy winterizing. But, we had a Bear guide all to ourselves and, even without a cook, SSC delivered delicious meals.
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| Me with the remaining staff and a veggie dinner |
And, while that was terrific, our "regular" visit in June 2023 when the Lodge was fully booked was no less wonderful. This time, we got to meet interesting people and the attention was just as personal. We even had the same cabin and the same guide, Dave.
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| That's Dave, third from left, with our group and several other guided groups |
Let me explain how this works: the Lodge is situated where Silver Salmon Creek flows across the wide, flat beach into the ocean. When Salmon arrive to swim upstream to spawn, Bears gather ...
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| ... to fish and eat ... |
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| ... and fish ... |
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| ... and eat ... |
The Lodge takes advantage of that to offer Bear viewing and fishing.
But, even before the first Salmon arrive for the season and between Salmon runs, Bears hang out there to feed on the luxurious sedge grass ...
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| The Bears seem to love it |
... and the phenomenally abundant razor clams that they dig up on the vast tidal flats ...
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| They eat hundreds in a day |
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| Cleaning a razor clam |
We even benefitted from the clams when the Lodge served yummy razor clam chowder for lunch. Talk about local and fresh!
The staff told us that clamming is one of their favorite work duties. They find roaming the beach and competing for the biggest haul addictive. But, cleaning the large, sandy clams with extremely sharp shells, not so much!
Of course, the Bears don't bother. They probably consume massive amounts of sand. Some pry open the shells and just eat the meat; some consume shells and all.
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| The babies hold their own right next to the adults |
The Brown Bears, some of which are huge, are so busy gorging themselves (in the spring to overcome weight loss during their winter's sleep and in the late summer to bulk up for winter) that they really don't care about the people watching them.
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| Completely non-plussed |
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So, you can get very close |
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| Very, very close |
Plus, since Bears are territorial and creatures of habit, most of the ones you see at Silver Salmon Creek are "regulars" ...
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| Left: Little Davy and Mom; Right: Crimped Ear and her new cubs |
... so they are used to humans ...
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| They were aware of us; but more concerned about other Bears (that's why she is standing) |
The guides take you around on an ATV or a guided walk to show you the Bears that have become familiar to them.
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| The fleet |
While you could easily find Bears on your own, the guide helps keep you safe (or make you feel like you're safe) and ensures that you respect the Bears.
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| Often the Bears find you |
Plus, the guides are extremely knowledgeable about Bears and Bear behavior.
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| Looking for – and finding – Bears |
The Lodge is private, but located inside Lake Clark National Park. This is called an in-holding: a property that was owned prior to establishment of the Park and is now "grandfathered in." Since many Alaska National Parks are fairly new, this is common.
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| The main lodge had an obvious facelift |
Of course, they do have to follow Park rules.
On our last visit, we were told that the number of fly-in trips (I'll touch on those in a minute) has increased dramatically as Bear viewing becomes more popular. As a result, the number of tourists and the interaction with Bears has increased. As a result of that, National Park scrutiny has increased.
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| A fly-in group with some Bears |
Dave told us on out final day at the lodge that they had just received notification from NPS that they could no longer drive the ATVs out on the tidal flats to get close to Bears.
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| You can still walk out, but it makes it trickier to get those perfect Bear shots |
And, Rangers do occasionally stop by ...
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| Checking on the Bears. Or was she checking on the guides? |
Silver Salmon Creek is an amazing place. The Bears are just there! Right there!
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| On the beach |
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| In the field |
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| By the mountains |
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| In the creek |
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| In the trees (really!) |
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In the sloughs
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| In your face |
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| Far away |
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| Up close |
It was amazing!
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| A magical place |
And, in addition to our stays at the Lodge, we also visited once on a one-day fly-in with Kenai Backcountry Adventures out of Kenai. When we signed up, they said we would go to either Katmai or Lake Clark National Park, depending on weather and recent Bear activity. They didn't say where.
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| Another fun small plane adventure |
Imagine our surprise when we landed right in front of the Lodge!
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| You can just see a building in the background |
Also, imagine our surprise when, the minute we deplaned, two juvenile Brown Bears strolled by with ten feet of us.
And, then they ran down the beach ...
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| Off they went |
... and had some fun playing with each other ...
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| Kids! |
It was an extraordinary experience where both Scott and I managed to capture some excellent photos.
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| It was so pretty with the Alaskan lupine in bloom |
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| Bears were on the beach |
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| Bears were grazing in lush grass |
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| The kids played forever |
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| And, all the Bears were gorgeous |
Plus, on that trip, we also did some flight-seeing on the way back to Kenai.
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| Spectacular scenery |
Yes, it's tricky to get to Lake Clark National Park and, yes, it is expensive.
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| You gotta go! Photo: Scott Stevens |
And, going there puts you in an elite club. Only about 23,000 people visit per year. That's 113 acres per person!
The experience is incomparable. if you can swing it, do it!
Katmai National Park and Preserve
Had enough Bears? Of course not, so let's look at the third Park I'm covering in this post: Katmai National Park and Preserve.
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| Young Brown Bear fishing at Brooks Falls |
Where Lake Clark National Park is a bit obscure, Katmai is very well-known. Maybe not by name, but because it is home to Brooks Falls, where the Brown Bears fish for salmon in large numbers.
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| The famous Falls |
Being well-known means it is popular. There are a few other places you can go to see Brown Bears feeding is a stream as Salmon rush upstream to spawn. But, this is the place people flock to. Why?
It is a National Park and, therefore, is well-managed and well-maintained.
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| Scott arriving at the Park |
It has very well-designed viewing platforms that put you right in the middle of the action.
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| Viewing platform |
It has on-site accommodations.
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| Me at our cabin |
It is beautiful.
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| Naknek Lake |
It has a great sense of humor about its famous inhabitants. Every year, Katmai celebrates Fat Bear Week, recognizing Bears that have successfully fattened up for the winter by feeding on Brooks' copious amounts of Salmon.
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| Vote for your favorite |
Held over the course of seven days in October and concluding on the Fat Bear Tuesday, people vote on "contestants" in a tournament-style bracket where bears are pitted against each other for your vote. The contest began in 2014; now about 800,000 people vote.
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| Success! |
The contest underscores why the Brooks Falls ecosystem is important.
Over the winter, denning Bears do not eat or drink until they emerge in spring, relying solely on fat reserves.
They can lose up to half of their body weight and they spend the summer gaining it back. At Brooks Falls, that means gobbling up Salmon.
But, I'm getting ahead of myself. Let's talk about Brooks, what to do there and how to get there.
First, let me clear up the confusion about what Brooks Camp and Brooks Falls are and how they fit into Katmai National Park.
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| Katmai National Park |
Katmai National Park and Preserve covers 6,596 square miles in southwestern Alaska across from Kodiak Island at the top of the tail that forms the Aleutians.
Named for Mount Katmai, its centerpiece stratovolcano, the Park was originally designated a National Monument in 1918 to protect the area's volcanoes.
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| A volcano from the air |
The impetus was the 1912 eruption of Novarupta, which formed the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, a 40-square-mile, 100-to-700-foot-deep pyroclastic flow.
Today, the Park encompasses 18 individual volcanoes, seven of which have been active since 1900. And, they are still part of the attraction of Katmai. But, since the Park was formed, Katmai's public face and reputation changed a bit.
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| The Park gained a reputation for its abundance of Sockeye Salmon ... |
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| ... and the Brown Bears that feed on them ... |
After a series of expansions, the Park and Preserve were established in 1980.
The Park's headquarters are in King Salmon, but its heart is Brooks Camp, which sits at a natural choke point for Salmon runs where the Brooks River connects Lake Brooks and Naknek Lake. The area is named after Alfred Hulse Brooks, the geologist in charge of exploring and mapping the Territory of Alaska.
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| Brooks Falls is the epicenter |
When the Salmon are running, scores of Bears arrive to feed on them. The NPS has taken advantage of this by building several viewing platforms, connected by protected boardwalks and open trails ...
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| Great trails |
... where visitors can safely watch these bruins catch and gorge on the fish they depend on to build up their fat reserves.
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| Lay of the land; Map: NPS |
The main viewing platform is about a mile walk on the Brooks Falls Trail from the NPS compound, which includes cabins, a store, a showerhouse, a dining hall, a campground and services for fishing.
The compound area sits right on Naknek Lake, where water taxis bring in visitor and float planes land and park.
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| Bears often mingle with the planes, creating traffic jams |
Bear viewing season peaks in July, when the Salmon are migrating, and in September, when the Salmon are dying after spawning and are washing downstream.
I have been at the beginning of the season just when the Salmon begin arriving and at the end of the season. So, I have not witnessed 30-40 Bears feeding at once, but I have seen a dozen at Brooks Falls at the same time, with more near the mouth of the River and along the boardwalk.
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| Bears are everywhere, even in the early season |
The trade-off for going slightly off season is that you see less Bears, but have freer access to see them.
Katmai has lots of restrictions to protect guests from the Bears and to ensure that everyone gets to see them.
First, all visitors must go through Bear safety training before going anywhere. It doesn't matter if it is your first visit or your 20th; you have to go through Bear safety training.
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| When you complete training, you get a pin that you must wear when out and about |
Then, you must stash all food and drinks except water in either your room, camp area or the handy food cache near the Visitor Center. They do not want Bears to associate people with food and they take this very seriously.
If you want to picnic, you can – as long as you do it inside the dining hall or in the picnic area surrounded by an electric fence. The campground is also surrounded by an electric fence.
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| Food safety is important |
Although Bears can be anywhere, most of the sightings are from the boardwalk and platform across the mouth of the River and the platforms at the Falls. Much of your transit is on raised/gated boardwalks.
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| Often, huge Brown Bears amble by right under your feet! |
Rangers monitor Bear activity and sometimes restrict movement between or on the boardwalks until Bears have cleared the area. They ask you not to stop on the boardwalks to photograph bears, but ...
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| Couldn't pass this up! |
Interestingly, a fairly long part of the walk to the platform is not on a protected boardwalk, but rather through the woods.
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| Some of the path is protected; some isn't |
You might encounter some Spruce Grouse along the trail ...
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| Left and lower right: male; Upper right: female |
You might encounter a Bear ...
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| We did! We came face-to-face with Fat Bear 747 |
Just remember, the Bear has the right of way. Move (don't run, just move) out of the way. if you have to leave the trail and stand in bushes, you do. THE BEAR HAS THE RIGHT OF WAY.
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| He walked past, turned to corner and ambled on to the Falls |
But, not to worry if you are careful ...
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| Fortunately, these Bears are accustomed to people ... |
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| Well-fed ... |
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| And they have not learned to associate people with snackies ... |
Bears seldom cause problems for people.
Since they are competing for food, it's not unusual for them to have issues with other bears ...
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| ... whether it is when they are vying for good fishing position ... |
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| ... protecting their cubs ... |
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| ... taking a nap ... |
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| ... waiting for the fish ... |
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| ... or just playing around ... |
Usually, the sparring is benign, but not always.
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| It's tough being an alpha Bear |
During the busy season, visitors have limited time on the main viewing platform (usually about a half hour at a time). The riffles platform a bit farther from the Falls doesn't have restrictions, although Rangers could step in at any time to move visitors if necessary.
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| Viewing from the Riffles |
When I've gone, the number of visitors has been lower and I have only once had to leave the main platform to make way for other people. Because of the crowds, tripods are not allowed on the main platform (monopods are).
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| On the platform |
There are (allegedly) other activities in Brooks Camp ...
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| Fishing |
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| Visiting the ruins of a native village; Photo: NPS |
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| Taking a tour to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes; Photo: Gondwana Ecotours |
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| Birding |
But, the Bears are just too good to do anything else!
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| Just look at this guy! |
So, how do you get to Brooks Falls? You have a couple of choices to get there: you can stay at Brooks Camp in either a rustic cabin or in the National Park campground; you can stay nearby and come in for the day by boat or plane; or you can take a day trip from Homer, Soldotna or Anchorage.
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| Regardless of the plan; you'll fly part or all of the way |
I have done all three. By far, the best option is to stay overnight.
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| You want as much time as possible |
Having said that, it is virtually impossible to get reservations at Brooks Lodge.
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| Lots of demand; Photo: Scott Stevens |
The Lodge conducts a lottery about 18 months before the season where you can win the opportunity to book.
The lottery applies to peak periods, which are approximately June 25 to August 5 and August 25 to closing in mid-September.
You enter online and can either specify certain dates or be open to whatever comes up. The latter gives you a better chance.
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| Everyone wants to see Bears |
One application per person.
The applicant must be one of the party traveling (in other words, no scalping and no giving reservations away).
Winners are either given a date or a place on the waiting list; winners get a week (yep, seven days!) to book and pay a 50 percent deposit.
Final payment is due 90 days before the reservation date, where rate increases might be added.
Refunds are paid ONLY if a room is resold. Even then, there are cancellation fees.
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| Which way? |
You cannot request a specific cabin or location – if you get a reservation, you get what you get.
You can stay THREE nights maximum in a season, whether on consecutive or separate trips.
Each party may win only ONE July or September booking (you cannot jump from one reservation to another for a longer stay).
Why so strict?
Demand is very high and supply is very low. There are only 16 rooms at Brooks Camp.
The cabins are all alike. They all have the same interior layout with two sets of bunk beds that sleep up to four guests. Each room has heat and electricity, a private toilet, a sink and a shower.
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| Our cabin |
The lottery sets the maximum party size at 20; while you do not need to fill a room (Scott and I stayed in a room that could sleep four), a party requesting more than two rooms must have a minimum of three persons per room and there are restrictions as the number in the party goes up.
Once all the peak dates are filled, entrants who did not get their desired dates are notified of remaining available dates and can then be put on a waiting list and will be notified when dates become available.
July and September dates typically fill during the lottery drawing, but some June and August dates may still be available. And, that's how we got accommodations.
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| We went in June as the Bears were arriving |
Oh, and even with all this hoopla, it's expensive. A room is $995 per night (unlike many Lodges, the fee is per room, so, obviously, it's more cost-effective to have four rather than two people in a room).
Meal plans are available for the very tasty buffets served in the dining room; they run $23/$12 (adult/child aged 2-11) for breakfast; $28/$16 for lunch; and $42/$24 for dinner.
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| The food is good and plentiful (but, go early or the best desserts are gone) |
You could bring your own food, but remember that the flights to and from have weight limitations.
But, we ain't done yet: the flight there is $1,350 roundtrip per person from Anchorage and $450 per person from King Salmon.
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| It's great if you like small planes |
If you fly from Anchorage, you fly by wheeled aircraft to King Salmon, where you board the floatplane to Brooks.
Be advised that weather can wreak havoc with your plans. Fog and rain are common. You may not get there when you planned to and you may not get out on schedule. It's Alaska!
Also, Bears are dependent on Salmon. If the Salmon aren’t running, you might not see Bears. And, while the Salmon are predictable, they aren't 100 percent reliable.
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| Don't count on them arriving on a specific day |
As I said, Scott and I stayed at Brooks Camp once, where we spent hours at the Platform, walking back and forth multiple times. I also mentioned that we went twice when staying at The Farm Lodge in Lake Clark. Those times, we flew in and just went to the Platform once. Plus, I did a day fly-in-fly-out from Homer once where I spent time on the platform and by the river.
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| Great trips, all |
A much less expensive option, of course, is camping. The Brooks Camp Campground is open from May to October. It has a 60-person capacity and, although there are no designated sites, reservations are required. Because of the Bears, there are many restrictions: cooking only in designated cooking shelters away from tents; all food, cooking gear, fuel and cooking stoves must be stored in specific food caches; other gear must be stored in gear caches when not in use.
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| There is a store for things you forgot (like rain gear) |
As I said, the campground is protected by an electrified fence; but that does not guarantee that Bears will not get in.
Like so many National Park campgrounds, reservations generally fill up within a few hours of the start of the reservation period in early January. The cost is $12 per person from June 1 to September 17 and $6 per person in May and late September and October. Of course, you will have to get your gear there by either boat, plane or (I suppose) a looooong hike.
If you want to check Brooks Camp out, you can watch the Bears via webcam, which goes live in mid-June.
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| You can watch from home |
But, Katmai is bigger than just Brooks Camp.
Another option (also pricey) is a Lodge elsewhere in the Park. Our first visit to Katmai was a stay at the Katmai Wilderness Lodge.
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| The Lodge is just steps from shore |
The lodge is reached by floatplane from Kodiak and includes guided Bear viewing at nearby Salmon streams.
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| Our ride from Kodiak |
Lodges like these usually have minimum stays and include floatplane transportation in the fee. For example, today's rates at the Wilderness Lodge are 4 days/3 nights $4,675 per person; 5 days/4 nights $5,280; 6 days/5 nights $6,380. Other lodges are similar.
The Katmai Wilderness Lodge has lovely cabins and excellent food.
You spend days in rubber waders and boots slogging through high grass and watching Bears ...
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| Napping |
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| Interacting with other Bears |
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| Fishing |
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| Eating |
You can fish and tour the bay as well.
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| Pretty scenery |
This is where I experienced close contact with Brown Bears for the first time. I would never get this close without experienced Bear guides (or a car), but it's a real thrill.
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| I've been closer since! |
You have to love Bear watching to do this!
We do!
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| Bear with Salmon in Katmai National Park; Photo: Scott Stevens |
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