Sunday, July 20, 2014

Four Generations #4 -- Yellowstone National Park

Betty enjoying her visit
Our nation’s (and most likely the world’s) first National Park, Yellowstone is located in Wyoming, with small portions in Montana and Idaho. 

Grand Prismatic Hot Springs
It was established by Congress and signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant on March 1, 1872. Yellowstone is known for its wildlife and its many geothermal features, especially Old Faithful Geyser, one of the most popular features in the Park. 

From the Old Faithful webcam
It has many types of ecosystems, but the subalpine forest is most abundant. It is part of the South Central Rockies forests ecoregion.

A beautiful vista
Yellowstone National Park spans an area of 3,468.4 square miles comprising lakes, canyons, rivers and mountain ranges. Yellowstone Lake is one of the largest high-altitude lakes in North America and is centered over the Yellowstone Caldera, the largest super volcano on the continent. 

Kayaking in a volcanic crater
Still considered active, the volcano has erupted with tremendous force several times in the last two million years, covering the area with lava flows and volcanic rocks. Half of the world's geothermal features are in Yellowstone.

Superheated water and mineral deposits
The Park’s name comes from the yellow rock visible throughout, but most noticeably in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River.

The famous yellow stone
Hundreds of species of mammals, birds, fish and reptiles have been documented, including several that are either endangered or threatened. Grizzly Bears, Black Bears, Coyotes, Foxes, Martens, Wolves, Deer, Pronghorn and free-ranging herds of Bison and Elk live in the park. 

American Bison
Forest fires occur in the Park each year; in the large forest fires of 1988, nearly one third of Yellowstone was burned.

1988 fire; Photo: NPS
The human history of the Park begins at least 11,000 years ago when aboriginal Americans first began to hunt and fish in the region. These Paleo-Indians of the Clovis culture used obsidian found in the Park to make cutting tools and weapons. Arrowheads made of Yellowstone obsidian have been found as far away as the Mississippi Valley, indicating that a regular obsidian trade existed between local tribes and tribes farther east. 

The Park has a wide variety of minerals
By the time white explorers first entered the region during the Lewis and Clark Expedition in 1805, they encountered the Nez Perce, Crow and Shoshone tribes. While passing through present day Montana, the expedition members were informed of the Yellowstone region to the south, but did not investigate.

Beautiful country
In 1807-08, John Colter, a former member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, passed through a portion of what later became the Park where he observed at least one geothermal area in the northeastern section of the park, near Tower Fall. After surviving wounds he suffered in a battle with members of the Crow and Blackfoot tribes in 1809, he described a place of "fire and brimstone" that most people dismissed as delirium. 

Bubbling cauldron
Over the next 40 years, numerous reports from mountain men and trappers told of boiling mud, steaming rivers and petrified trees, yet most of these reports were believed at the time to be myth. After an 1856 exploration, mountain man Jim Bridger reported observing boiling springs, spouting water and a mountain of glass and yellow rock. These reports were largely ignored because Bridger was known for being a "spinner of yarns." 

The geothermal features are abundant
The first detailed expeditions to the Yellowstone area were the Cook-Folsom-Peterson Expedition of 1869 and the Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition in 1870. 

Passport stamps
Montana writer and lawyer Cornelius Hedges, a member of the Washburn expedition, proposed that the region should be set aside and protected as a national park; he wrote a number of detailed articles about his observations for the Helena Herald newspaper between 1870 and 1871. 

With government sponsorship, Ferdinand Hayden led the Hayden Geological Survey of 1871, from which he compiled a comprehensive report on Yellowstone, which included large-format photographs by William Henry Jackson, as well as paintings by Thomas Moran. 

His report helped to convince the U.S. Congress to withdraw this region from public auction and create Yellowstone National Park. Fort Yellowstone, formerly a U.S. Army post, now serves as park headquarters.

We stopped a Lewis Falls (named for Meriwether Lewis) ... 

Lewis Falls is just north of Yellowstone's south entrance
... and then the West Thumb Geyser Basin, where Lindsay saw her first Yellowstone thermal features. 

The water color is amazing
We were amazed at how high the water was – a theme that repeated multiple times during the trip. 

We saw Tree swallows in trees killed by the high temperatures of the boiling springs ...

The dead trees are ideal for nests
... kayakers exploring the bubbling springs on the edge of Yellowstone Lake ...

You can see a hot spring underwater
... and steaming aquamarine pools surrounded by brilliant wildflowers. 

Spring's edge
As we traveled on to Fishing Bridge, we saw our first close-up Bison, resting on the top of a hill.

Big guy
As we passed Hayden, we stopped upon a jam just outside of Canyon where a Bison had died. We briefly saw a Coyote that ran away and talked to people who had seen a Wolf and a Bear earlier. We waited awhile, but didn’t see anything. We also learned that the Hayden Wolf Pack routinely travels under the power lines.

As we headed towards the Hayden Valley (famous for wildlife), we stopped at my favorite thermal, the Dragon’s Mouth. This thermal is a cave where pressure builds up creating steam and a roar that sounds as if a monster is deep in the cave roaring.

The spring huffs and puffs
Then, into Hayden looking for Bears, Wolves and Bison. The valley is always populated with the “Wolf people” who park themselves at overlooks with spotting scopes to search for Wolves. We saw some with something in their sights and were surprised that it was a Bald Eagle and not a Wolf.

Bald Eagle
A couple of stops later, however, we were rewarded with a fairly close view of a Wolf – still pretty far, but much closer than any I have ever seen in the Park. He moved quickly down the valley before turning and heading up into the hills. 

A Wolf by the road
We also stopped to photograph the glorious wildflowers growing on the mountainsides – the prettiest I have ever seen in Yellowstone.

Colorful wildflowers
See the Towers above the Falls?
Moving on, we stopped at Tower Fall – named for the rock pinnacles at the top of the fall (similar to the tent rocks at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument).

We did the short walk to the overlook. This was probably the hottest temperature of the trip, but the 132-foot fall is worth the walk. 

Afterwards, we had ice cream at the Tower Fall store ( a very, very popular activity - it was quite crowded). 

As we left, we saw a Yellow-bellied Marmot posing on the wall by the basalt cliffs.

This looks like a juvenile Marmot
Then, on to the Petrified Trees turnout just north of the Tower junction where I had seen “Scarface,” an old Grizzly with some nasty head scars, last October with Mark.

Scarface in 2013
He wasn’t there, but a Black Bear was. 

Apparently a popular area for Bears
The ranger on duty kept pulling the crowd back and then getting engaged in conversations with tourists, so we got some good shoots – as well as lots of mosquito bites (the downside of all the high creeks and lakes). 

We had a good time watching the Bear take a long walk
The ranger said that a momma and cubs also frequented the area, but we never saw her.

Just down the road, we saw a large male moose. As driver, I didn’t get pictures because I had to drop Caty and Lindsay off and turn around to park. By the time I got back, the Moose was gone. It was, sadly, our ONLY moose of the trip. At least there was one.

Photo: Caty Stevens
Then, the long drive back to our cabins just outside the Park’s East Entrance.

The next morning, we headed out to visit Yellowstone Falls. 

A great spot for photos
The Yellowstone river flows north from Yellowstone Lake, it leaves the Hayden Valley and plunges 109 feet over Upper Yellowstone Falls ... 

Upper Falls
... and then a quarter mile downstream 308 feet over Lower Yellowstone Falls ...

Lower Falls
... at which point it then enters the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, which is up to 1,000 feet deep. 

It's such a pretty view, that we had to take lots of photos. 
 
Who knew we'd end up with portraits?
Lots of beautiful views, a few big Elk and some approaching thunderstorms that made us limit the stops on the north rim (metal platforms and lightning don’t mix). 

Then, onto the major thermal area, stopping first at Artists Paintpots (where I had never been before), a group of over 50 springs, geysers, vents and especially mud pots that exhibit varying shades of blue, grey and brown and have a range of different textures, with the behavior changing during the year depending on the amount of subterranean water.

Artists Paintpots
Then, we moved on to Grand Prismatic Spring and its accompanying Excelsior Geyser Crater, Opal Pool and Sapphire Pool. 

Opal Pool
All were quite steamy, which makes photography difficult. We had hoped the temperature would be high as projected because when it is hot, the steam abates. But, the cooler temps did make the walk more pleasant. A trade-off. The Geyser Crater is a gorgeous turquoise pool with bubbling vents (and an active geyser) in it. 

Geyser Pool
Grand Prismatic is the largest hot spring in the United States, and the third largest in the world, after Frying Pan Lake in New Zealand and Boiling Lake in Dominica. Its striking coloration (red, orange, yellow and green) is the result of pigmented bacteria in the microbial mats that grow around the edges of the mineral-rich water. The blue center of the pool is sterile due to extreme heat.

Paw print in the algae; Grand Prismatic
And, finally, to Old Faithful – Yellowstone’s famous geyser that erupts about every 91 minutes. It was a little late, but a pretty good eruption. 

Another first for Lindsay
Then, a walk through the lovely Old Faithful Inn.

Natural elements comprise the decor 
On the way back, we stopped by the dead bison and we saw a coyote hunting in the area. 

Hunting Coyote
It was fun to watch him stalk, pounce and catch.

Success!!!
On the way back to our cabin that night, we saw another coyote and then an adorable little pine marten bouncing by the side of the road.

And, we still had another day!

Lindsay's backpack reflected her sentiments

Trip date: July 8-16, 2014

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