Top of the Trip

We headed out from Kristiansund to the last city on our initial driving tour: Trondheim.

Trondheim is the most northerly major city in Norway, even though it is still in the lower third of the country. Unlike everywhere else we traveled, there was less English and fewer people who spoke English. It was the only place on our whole trip where we had to struggle a bit to translate.

Trondheim

As we drove in, it looked like a big city and, even with some of its historic components, it did seem more “big city” than anywhere else we went other than Oslo.

With a population of about 185,000, it is the third most populous municipality in Norway. On the south shore of the Trondheimsfjord at the mouth of the river Nidelva, it was founded in 997 as a trading post and was the capital of Norway during the Viking Age until 1217. From 1152 to 1537, the city was the seat of the Archdiocese of Nidaros; since it has remained the seat of the Diocese of Nidaros and the Nidaros Cathedral (Nidarosdomen). It was incorporated in 1838.

We stayed at the Rica Nidelven, which is right by a tourist area and the train station. 

We had issues trying to park our car. Most urban hotels in Norway do not have parking, so you have to go to nearby parking garages. This was the one place where automated charge card instructions were not bilingual on the machine (although there were instructions on a sign). We went back to the hotel and asked for help when the system seemed to reject my card and it turned out they had a new system that was malfunctioning and parking was free.

Near our hotel was an area of restaurants and bars that appeared to be built on old locks, with some of the equipment still on display.

Old equipment

Among the sights of Trondheim is the Gamle Bybro (Old Town Bridge) that crosses the Nidelva River to the Trondheim neighborhood of Bakklandet (Back Landing). 

Gamle Bybro

Gamle Bybro was built in conjunction with reconstruction after the great fire of 1681. Gamle Bybro was constructed of wood supported on three stone piers with an iron gate in the middle that remained a guarded city gate until 1816. Now, it is the gateway to the old part of the city, which includes riverfront warehouses ...

Waterfront

... old houses ...

City street

... and interesting mailboxes.

So precious

Another major landmark is Nidaros Cathedral (Nidarosdomen/Nidaros Domkirke). This Church of Norway cathedral is built over the burial site of Saint Olaf, the king of Norway in the 11th century, who became the patron saint of the nation. 

Nidaros Cathedral

It is the traditional location for the consecration of the King of Norway, and next door is a museum housing the royal jewels and capes of the Norway (I visited, but no photography was allowed). 

Nidaros Cathedral

The Nidaros Cathedral was built from 1070 to 1300, and designated as the cathedral for the Diocese of Nidaros in 1152. After the Protestant Reformation, the Lutheran Church took it from the Catholics in 1537.

Nidaros Cathedral

It is the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world.

Nidaros Cathedral

An interesting gargoyle

We were fortunate to be in Trondheim on Sunday, so we actually attended at church service, which was conducted in English and Norwegian and included a great deal of music featuring both a girls’ choir and a fabulous pipe organ. 

Nidaros Cathedral

The service was celebrating graduation of new priests, who all participated in the service. We were also treated to the ringing of the cathedral bells, which lasted a long time each time it happened.

Nidaros Cathedral

After the service, I also visited the crypt below.

Old crypts

I also visited the Bishop’s museum next to the cathedral, which featured Viking and later artifacts and parts of the original church. It was a beautiful museum and, for most of the time, I was the only one there.

Very Norwegian-looking

And, then, I don't know what

On an afternoon walk, I visited the Vor Fru Kirke (Our Lady's Church), which seems to operate as a cafe as well.

Von Fru Kirke

Ceiling

On an afternoon walk, I climbed up the hill to the Kristiansten Fortress (Kristiansten Festning), which was also built after the fire in 1681 to protect the city against attack from the east. 

Fortress

Construction was finished in 1685. It fulfilled its purpose in 1718 when Swedish forces laid siege against Trondheim. The fortress was decommissioned in 1816 by king Charles XIV John.

Protecting the city

Added bonus, great views of the city.

Trondheim

In an evening walk around town, we saw the Trondheim Royal Residence.

Royal Residence

And, we noticed lots of focus on music, including several violin makers.

Cool sign

I like this

So, although we started out a bit wary of the town because "bigness" of the city, it was charming.

Oh... and one more thing to relate. We had instructions to return our rental car to an address, which was right by the local Avis office. The office was closed, with no instruction on where to return the car. After a few calls, we learned that the address was correct and that the return spot was a gas station with no Avis markings. It would be easier if the instructions included that it was a gas station!

Trip date: August 19-September 9, 2014