If I Were Going...: On to Bergen

So, now we begin to see Norway. Scott had selected this tour, but perhaps had not really considered how some of the components worked (more on that later). Perhaps the most unsuccessful component was the trip from Oslo to Bergen via train.

Train to Bergen

Now, there was nothing wrong with the train or the trip – it just wasn’t Scott’s thing. And, quite frankly, I have to agree with him. The train was fast, efficient and clean, but with dusty windows, numerous tunnels ...

Where is the view?

... and no real stops, it doesn’t really let you see the scenery and certainly doesn’t allow for any photography. We started out in seats that faced backwards. (I will have to remember for any future train rides to stipulate no backward seats. Can you say queasy?) So, we changed seats.

The train ride to Bergen, in its defense, is lovely and a small portion of it goes where there are no roads.

A shot from the train

Norwegian countryside

A local farm

Voted one of the 20 best railways in the world, it passes through the charming villages of Gol and Geilo on the way to Myrdal Station, where it stops briefly before continuing to Bergen. Many people got off in Myrdal to catch the Flåmsbana scenic train (more on that later, too).

But, by the time we arrived in Bergen after seeing glimpses of lovely scenery combined with Scott’s very evident unhappiness with non-car travel (he claimed he didn’t realize the trip included a bus and two train segments), I contacted Nordic Visitor and requested that we cancel the bus and train scheduled for the end of our trip.

He seemed happy to clean the train windows

They did book us a car, but I had to eat the cost for the bus and train! It was an expensive, yet valuable lesson; don’t trap Scott with tourists on a crowded conveyance that he can’t control.

The weather in Bergen, Norway’s second largest city, was more typically Norwegian when we arrived – rainy and foggy.

Bergen in a seaside town

We stayed at the Clarion Havnekontoret, housed in the former harbormasters’ headquarters.

Grand entrance

Parts of the hotel were beautiful.

Ceiling art

And, although there was no view, the room was fine.

Our room

The location was perfect – on the Vagen (one of the oldest harbors) ...

The Vagen

It was pleasant to walk along the harbor.

A nice day

We were just down the street from Bergen’s most famous sight: a row of colorful Hanseatic warehouses that date from the days that Bergen was the center of trade with Germany.

Bergen's waterfront

A very classic Scandinavian look

And, near some very pretty architecture.

Lots of detail

Of course, we didn’t see much of the real, current-day Bergen, just the tourist area where charming houses climb up hills from the harbor fronting cobblestone streets.

Ancient storefronts

Colorful buildings are a way to deal with long, dark winters

Interesting color combinations

Like all of Norway, Bergen is very clean

We even discovered cool passageways behind the warehouses.

Narrow passage

At the top of the harbor is a fish market with an array of beautiful and very fresh crab, fish, shrimp, mussels and whale (yes, they do eat whale in Norway), plus lovely fruits.

Fish market

It's a fisherman's town

On the peninsula of Bergenshalvøyen on the Byfjorden, Bergen was established before 1070 AD and is now the administrative center of Hordaland. It has 275,000 residents and is a popular tourist destination. The remains of the quays, Bryggen, is a World Heritage Site.

Waterfront

During our time in Bergen, we walked about, I visited the aquarium (much touted, but very small and old-fashioned – don’t go!). However, the walk there passed through some lovely areas.

Pretty houses

Later, we picnicked at the Bergenhus Fortress, site of both the Rosenkrantz Tower ...

Rosenkrantz Tower

... and Haakon's Hall.

Haakon's Hall

In medieval times, the area was known as Holmen (the islet) and contained the royal residence, a cathedral and several churches, the bishop's residence and a monastery. Excavations have revealed foundations of buildings believed to date back to before 1100. In the 13th century, until 1299, Bergen was the capital of Norway and Holmen was the main seat of Norway's rulers. It was first enclosed by stone walls in the 1240s. Haakon's Hall was built around 1260 and a defensive tower, known in the Middle Ages as the keep by the sea, was built around 1270.

Ancient buildings

In the 1560s it was incorporated by the commander of the castle, Erik Rosenkrantz, into a larger structure, Rosenkrantz Tower.

A view from the waterfront

During World War II, the German navy used several buildings for its headquarters and constructed a large concrete bunker within the fortress walls. The buildings, including the Haakon's Hall, were severely damaged when a Dutch ship in the service of the German navy, carrying approximately 120 tons of dynamite, exploded in 1944 in the harbor just outside the fortress walls, but the buildings were later restored.

Historical photo

Itching to see the fjords (we were already almost a week into the trip without really seeing what we came for), we took an afternoon cruise to Osterfjorden, a somewhat narrow fjord north of Bergen.

Our ride

While lovely, it wasn’t quite what we expected – with a wider berth, gentler slopes and less drama than we were expecting. See some here.

Fjord

Still, the end was pretty dramatic, with steep sides and waterfalls ...

Natural beauty

... as well as lovely farms ...

Manmade beauty

Fjord

On this trip, we learned that Norway has the largest farmed salmon industry in the world. Scott is now concerned that all the Norwegian salmon he has been buying (attempting to get the highest quality) may be farmed.