If I Were Going...: Land of Fire and Ice

Taking another photograph

Our second day on Iceland was really the first chance to see this peculiar, harsh place. Only 40 square miles, Iceland is relatively new land, formed 16-18 million years ago and shaped by volcanic eruptions, glaciation and more volcanoes.

Glacial landscape

The area from the airport to Reykjavik and to and from the Blue Lagoon is a relatively level plain covered with a tumble of volcanic rocks and fissures. It certainly isn't a place you would want to traverse without a road -- which, by the way, are very sparse in Iceland. There is a ring road that travels 1,332 miles around the entire island plus lots of gravel roads accessible only by 4WD, high-profile vehicles. Plus, there is the "Golden Circle" - our destination for the day - which comprises many of Iceland's famous landmarks.

Let's talk a bit more about volcanoes. In 2010, Eyjafjallajökull erupted, covering Europe with an ash cloud so thick that it shut down air travel for 10 days. If you saw "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty," you would have seen the eruption in a somewhat implausible situation.

Eyjafjallajökull; Photo: Wikipedia

A few days before we left, a series of earthquakes prompted authorities to put Iceland under "orange alert" for a possible eruption of another volcano -- Bardarbunga, which last erupted 150 years ago. Bardarbunga is interesting because it sits under the Vatnajokull ice cap -- a 3,100-square mile mass of ice that dominates the southeast side of the island. Because the volcano is under the ice, possible outcomes include not only ash, but also serious flooding as ice melts most likely to the tune of 10X any volume of magma that would escape.

Although many expressed concern about our proximity to eruption, we actually hoped we'd see something (I mean, active volcano = photographer's dream). We saw no action, but the alert rose to red the day we left and we are going back. Meanwhile, areas to the north of the glacier have been evacuated and roads closed.

As a relatively new land, Iceland had no "native" peoples (or animals except the Icelandic fox). It was first settled around 864 by Vikings from Norway and an occasional Celt from the British Isles.

The island now has 350,000 inhabitants, most living in the Reykjavik area and is populated with sheep and sturdy little Icelandic horses descended from Viking horses.

Icelandic horses

We had signed up for a "super jeep" tour with "Amazing Iceland Tours." I wasn't sure if we were the only passengers and, unfortunately, we were not. As last to be picked up of the total of eight, we had to sit in the backseat. I was comfortable, but Scott was a bit cramped and, because we couldn't open windows, not happy about the photography situation. But, as the day wore on, he felt better about the tour.

We were told pick-up would be at 8:30; the ticket said 8:30-9:00 and the "jeep" (actually a customized Ford Excursion with ginormous tires) actually arrived at 9:45. The guide, Krissi, had a deadpan sense of humor and a sometimes-hard-to-understand accent. He tended to get winded when getting in and out of the car (or doing some tough driving), which was a little unnerving. But, he gave a good tour. And, the car got lots of attention (many tourists took pics of it).

That's a big car

We drove through the lava fields to our first stop Þingvellir. This is a fascinating area both geologically and historically. Geologically, it's the rift between the North American and European continents -- the largest and most visible part of the rift.

Þingvellir

Cliffs rise up on each side of a wide trough filled with fissures.

Þingvellir

One fissure is the Öxará river and the others are all filled with crystal clear glacial water ...

The cleft between the continents

... that empties into lake Þingvallavatn.

A geothermal area

At least one waterfall courses down the side (Krissi said it often moves to a new location if there is a major earthquake).

The fault

Historically, Þingvellir is important because it is where the world's first parliament, the Alþing general assembly, was established around 930 and continued to convene there until 1798. Major events in the history of Iceland have taken place at Þingvellir and therefore the place is held in high esteem by all Icelanders.Today Þingvellir is a protected national shrine. According to the law, passed in 1928, the protected area shall always be the property of the Icelandic nation, under the preservation of the Alþing.

A historic place

After walking through the rift (and getting a stamp in my National Park Passport!), we were off to Iceland's major thermal area, Geysir (from whence all geysers get their name). I must admit, after Yellowstone, it's disappointing. A few bubbling pools ...

Bubbling vent

Geothermal water

.... the now-inactive Geysir plus the very active geyser Strokkur ...

It erupts every 3-8 minutes

Of course, all across the area, you can see vents and steam. Plus we heard stories from Krissi of family saunas built right over the bubbling pools.

After a surprisingly yummy fast-food lunch (a salad of local Iceland veggies grown in nearby hothouses) and a hamburger, it was off to Gullfoss.

Gullfoss means "Gold Falls"

Now, this waterfall makes most other waterfalls look pretty insignificant.

A huge, powerful waterfall

As it pours a huge volume of glacial melt southward, the Hvítá river makes a dramatic right turn about a half mile before it plumments down a three-step "staircase" and then abruptly plunges in two stages (36 ft. and 69 ft.) into a crevice 105 ft. deep, 60 ft. wide and a little over a mile long.

Triangular shape

As you first approach, you can see mist and the river as it approaches, but not the crevice, making it look like the river disappears.

Rushing water

It is enormous -- so big, it is tough to comprehend. And, you can walk right up to the edge.

Enjoying the trip

Plus, you can walk up to a cliff above.

Magnificent

During the early 20th century, Iceland contemplated using Gullfoss to generate electricity in a process that would eliminate the falls. The story goes that Sigríður Tómasdóttir, the daughter of original owner of the falls, Tómas Tómasson, threatened to throw herself into the waterfall to save it.

A different view

After Gullfoss, we moved on to the Langjökull glacier (actually, the "jökull" means glacier, so that's redundant).

Ice

Langjökull, the second largest ice cap in Iceland (400+ square miles) after Vatnajökull, is up to 1,900 ft. thick. Its highest point is about 4,760 ft. above sea level.

The glacier

Then, back to the gravel to re-inflate the tires and head back to Reykjavik. On the way, we drove up (straight up) an iron hill that is actually exposed magma.