Sunday, September 21, 2014

Musings on Norway and Iceland

Following our epic trip to Norway and Iceland, I have a few musings and observations:

Trains and buses are not good modes of transportation for photographers. We need a car – our own car.

We need wheels
We really aren’t city folk – we are much happier outside urban areas. I like them much better than Scott does, so I should visit cities with other people.

A chipped credit card with a PIN is essential in Europe, especially if you will be purchasing gasoline. But, beware, they don’t always work – it might be wise to also buy a few prepaid cards if you are going to be out in the wilds. Many gas stations are unattended or don’t take cash.

Most places had English translations on menus and instructions and most people speak English. Oddly, we had the most trouble in Iceland near the airport where we couldn’t find a gas station where we could figure out how to work the autopay.

Both countries have very high value-added taxes (25% in Iceland). Make sure to figure that into planning.

Cities can be nice, but they are pricey
Most (maybe all) hotels include very nice buffet breakfasts, some included and some extra (check when you book, it can be confusing). Some hotel bookings outside the city even include dinner.

Delish!
Norway has lots of tolls and ferries – that will be added expense for car travel. But, unlike in the U.S., you don't need to decide whether to pop for tolls or not.

Ferries are just a part of normal routes
GPS is a great asset in both countries; although Iceland has so few roads, getting lost would be tough if you stayed on the main roads. Norway's roads are very good.

On the road
Weather can really affect how you feel about a place.

Norway on a sunny day
Sometimes taking a wrong turn nets the best adventures.

A wild, rugged country
Of the two, Norway is more beautiful ...

One of the most beautiful countries in the world
... Iceland more fascinating ... 

One of the most geologically interesting countries in the world
I am so glad I am going back to Iceland in January.


Trip date: August 19-September 9, 2014

The End of the Trip

On our last day in Iceland, we headed west again, stopping at Stjórnarfoss, a waterfall we hadn't seen the day before. This one is unlike most of the others in that it winds through a gorge in multiple steps. 

This is the bottom
Then, we returned early to Jökulsárlón for more photography during the daylight.

A dirty iceberg
We took a boat tour that was a bit disappointing because we didn’t go very far back into the lagoon.

Amphibious vehicles are just like the Duck Tours in Boston
Other boats did go much further back - one to the glacier's edge - so it my have just been our driver. We did, however, get to taste the glacial ice and view icebergs up close.

One of the interesting things about the glacier and the icebergs is that Vatnajökull is a temperate glacier, meaning that it is just about 32 degrees. This makes for rapid melting and calving.

A close view of a big iceberg
Fortunately, just as the day before, the weather cleared a little at Jökulsárlón, giving us a better view of the glacial (but not enough to see the volcano).

Better views
We posed with some of the big icebergs ...

Great backdrop; Photo: Scott Stevens
Another fabulous day
... marveled at the pool ...

The glacial lagoon
And, then, went over to the "Diamond Beach" where the icebergs travel out to sea ...

Exploring a phenomenon
... often getting beached in the process.

Ice litters the beach until it melts or is washed to sea
After that, we went to the other side of the lagoon at Fjallsjökull. 

So much ice!
Another interesting fact: Vatnajökull wasn't formed during the Ice Age. It is only about 2,500 years old and many of the glacial tongues are about 1,000 years old. It is melting so quickly, that it is expected to be gone in less than 200 years.

Nice reflection
At  Fjallsjökull, we climbed around and even sat on beached icebergs.

It's safe because it's beached; I wouldn't do this on a floating berg
I came across a very uplifting rock -- glaciers do some cool things.

My heart is in Iceland
At this point, the day was gorgeous.

What a difference from the day before
And, we took advantage of it ...

On top of the world
On the way back, we stopped at the beach at Vik and I am so glad we did. When we stopped the day before at Reynisdrangar, I thought that was the black sand beach about which I had read. But, it was black stone. Vik is black sand. Damp, black sand that looks like crushed Oreos.

Black beach, white rock
Then, we headed back, stopping again at the iconic waterfalls ...

Skogafoss 
... hoping for better light (but, we didn't get it) ...

Sejalandfoss
Both falls were much increased in volume from the rain. Along the way, we passed an area where there are about 200 manmade caves in the lava cliffs ...

Some had cute little troll houses
Then we headed toward the airport, traveling past moss-covered lava fields ... 

Weird landscape
... and stopping at the “bridge between two continents” that spans a narrower part of the continental rift ...


Europe meets North America
We had planned to stop at the Blue Lagoon, but ran out of time.

Then, it was on the plane for our 7.5-hour flight home. Gotta love that direct-to-Denver flight.

Scott souvenir shopping

Trip date: August 19-September 9, 2014

Back to Iceland

Bardabunga; Photo: Scott Stevens
On our way home from Norway, we scheduled a few more days in Iceland. We hoped that we would have clear weather again so that we would be able to see Bardarbunga erupting. It was clear on the way there and Scott was able to get pictures of it smoking away from the plane.

On our way
But, we landed in rainy overcast, which persisted throughout the rest of the visit. I shouldn’t (and I won’t) complain, because for the most part we had had extraordinary weather throughout our trip. And, Iceland generally has rain and fog.

Upon arrival, we headed east, with the intention of seeing the sights along the southern part of the Ring Road. We stopped for dinner in a little café where Scott had excellent arctic char and I had a delicious salad with chicken and veggies.

Then, on to our hotel, the Hotel Hekla, that was oddly quiet signaling that tourist season was pretty much over.  

Hotel Hekla
It was too rainy to sightsee, so we just visited briefly with the Icelandic horses on the property.

Visiting the horses
Developed from ponies taken to Iceland by Scandinavian settlers in the 9th and 10th centuries, these small horses are long-lived and hardy -- and fiercely protected by the Icelandic government. Law prevents horses from being imported into the country and exported animals are not allowed to return. 

While most horses have three gaits (walk, trot and canter/gallop), the Icelandic horse has two additional: the tölt, which is an exceptionally smooth gait that can be performed at a range of speeds, from the speed of a typical fast walk up to the speed of a normal canter; and the fast and smooth skeið, flugskeið or "flying pace,”with some horses able to reach up to 30 miles per hour. 

Icelandic Horse
A beauty
It is said these gaits are so smooth, the rider can carry a full glass of beer and not spill a drop.

Icelandic horses have full manes, weigh between 730 and 840 lbs. and average 13 and 14 hands (52 and 56 inches), high. 

The breed comes in many coat colors, including chestnut, dun, bay, black, gray, palomino, pinto and roan – and we saw some with multi-color manes. 

They have double coats developed for extra insulation in cold temperatures.

Besides the horses, the only other wildlife was some Whooper Swans

Common in Iceland
Waterfalls, Sea Stacks and Glaciers
The next morning, we headed east and stopped at two of Iceland’s most well-known waterfalls. Sejalandsfoss, a 200 ft. waterfall that has a path up and behind it …

Sejalandfoss on a gray day
... Skógafoss, 82 feet wide and 200 feet high ...

Still gray 
... with a path up the side ...

A bit of a slippery hike
... that allows you to view it from the top.

Cascading down
Then, we took a gravel road south to Reynisdrangar, a black stone beach with unearthly formations on the beach and in the water ... 

Wide view
The weather clouded up more, but somehow it seemed appropriate for the scenery.

Remnants of a volcanic eruption
Not only are the basalt sea stacks black, but so it the beach, which is made up of small, smooth black rocks.

Panorama
The area also features a phenomenal lava cliff with a section of exposed basalt that included a shallow cave ... 

Interesting beach feature
Basalt, formed from cooled lava (often rapidly cooled) often forms large crystals, creating interesting textures and surfaces, including columns ...

Rugged terrain
As you can see, the cliff is massive ...

Dwarfed! Left photo: Scott Stevens
Legend says two trolls tried drag a three-masted ship to land and were frozen in place when daylight broke, creating Reynisdrangar's sea stacks.

Stacks
Across the water were an arch and a number of additional formations.

Distant
It was on this beach that we first noticed odd behavior by seagulls that just hunker down in the sand and are not disturbed if you walk right up to them. Later, we saw Northern Fulmars doing the same thing on the road as cars sped by.

A fledgling resting
In Vik, we saw a typical Icelandic church ...

There are many that look just like this
Then, we arrived at Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where we would be staying for the night. No one can pronounce it, so they just call it “Klauster.” The town also has a waterfall, Systrafoss (“sister falls”), named for two nuns of the Kirkjubæjarklaustur monastery who were buried on the mountain above after being burned at the stake for violating codes of ethics. 

How cool to have a waterfall in your yard
Our next stop was Foss á Siðu (“waterfall on the side”), generally just called Foss, the Icelandic word for waterfall.

Just "Waterfall"
There are lots of lava cliffs ...

Cliffs from ancient (well, kind of ancient) volcanoes
... with green, green grass up the sides and at the base, where many sheep graze.

Icelandic Sheep
After passing a beautiful rushing stream with cascades ...

Roadside attraction
... we began seeing the glacial tongues of the massive Vatnajökull icecap, Europe's largest glacier, with a surface area of 5,000 square miles and a thickness of 1,300-3000 ft. The glacial ice conceals a number of mountains, valleys and plateaus, including active volcanoes, of which Bárðarbunga is the largest and Grímsvötn the most active.

Massive glacier
We stopped at Staftafell National Park at the foot of the Skaftafellsjökull (jökull means glacier). I hiked the mile out to the Svartifoss ("black falls"), an unusual waterfall that falls 65 feet over a wall of sharp black basalt ...  

Svartifoss
Also along the trail is the very pretty Hundafoss.

The name means "Dog Falls" because it sometimes swept farm dogs away
Glacial Lagoon
Then, we headed around the corner to one of the most spectacular sights in southern Iceland: the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon on the edge of Vatnajökull National Park.  

Amazing!
Situated at the head of the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, the lagoon only formed  after the glacier started receding from the edge of the Atlantic Ocean in the 1930s. 

Freshwater icebergs
The lake has grown at varying rates because of melting of the glaciers. 

Panorama
It is now almost a mile away from the ocean's edge and covers an area of about 6.9 sq. miles. 

Lots of colors
It recently became the deepest lake in Iceland, at over 815 feet. 

Scott's happy place
The size of the lake has increased fourfold since the 1970s.

Massive berg
The glacier constantly calves icebergs that rush out to sea, only to get caught up in the shallower edge. 

Waiting to go to sea
They crash and grind into each other until they are washed to sea, often leaving large chunks on the beach. 

Like diamonds on the beach
Seals were swimming about, avoiding the big icebergs.

Swimming Harbor Seal
We stayed marveling at this natural wonder until sundown, and then headed to our hotel ... 

Otherworldly
Pretty on a foggy night
It had gotten quite cool and foggy, so the drive was magical in many ways.

This was especially true when we came around a bend and saw Foss á Siðu illuminated.

It's cool enough to have a waterfall in your backyard. But, one that is lit up? 

Incomparable!

The only thing that could have made it better would have been some aurora. But, it was way too cloudy for that.


Trip date: August 19-September 9, 2014