Wednesday, June 12, 2013

The Alaska Highway

Finally, heading out on a life-long dream
On June 10, we drove the last leg of pre-Alaska/Canada highway – to Dawson Creek, where the highway begins. We started out on 16, but decided it would be too long, so we returned to Jasper to take 40, only to find an accident had closed 16 East (the connecter to 40) for at least three hours. So, back around to 16 West. It turned out to be less scenic and have fewer animals than we expected. We saw lots of Moose warnings, but no Moose, and just a couple of Black Bears. 


We checked out Mount Robson Provincial Park

But, we made it to Dawson Creek and started our drive to Alaska. We even got a day ahead of schedule. 


Traffic was NOT a problem
Why? Well, because our misconceptions have been corrected:

We assumed we were heading to wilderness -- a lot is; but, a lot isn't. Turns out the Alaska Highway is far more civilized than we expected. Now, there are a few weird things, like the 72,000 signs in Watson Lake.

Not really scenic
And, a surprising lack of picnic tables.

You stop when you can!
We expected non-stop jaw-dropping beauty -- some is, but some is just pretty. And, it's generally not as jaw-dropping as Jasper or Yellowstone. Muncho Lake is an incredible blue green and there are mountains, mountains and mountains. As I look at the picture below, I realize I may protest too much!!
Well, this is pretty
We expected LOTS of animals - yes, we saw a fair amount of Bears ...

A Black bear munching on flowers
some Bison ... 

These are Wood Bison, a bit smaller than American Bison
But, only two Moose and, despite repeated warnings, no Caribou. Plus, we saw some Stone Sheep, which I had never heard of. They are relatives of Bighorns and Dall Sheep - closer to Dall than Bighorns.
Stone Sheep
We thought there would be better accommodations. Most of the RV parks are pretty bleak (can you say parking lot?) and many venerated Alaska Highway facilities are closed. 

Johnson's Crossing was closed!
The woman who pumped our gas at Tetsa Junction told us that no one can get workers who will stay. 

All these shops sell giant cinnamon rolls
Fortunately, the first night we pushed on past where we were going to stay and ended up in heaven. Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park had fabulous, leafy campsites ...

Prettiest campsite ever!
... and wonderful hot springs (open 24 hours!) ...

Such a wonderful surprise
Unlike Miette at Jasper, Liard isn't a swimming pool filled with spring water ...

How inviting
... it's the river -- you just walk in and situate yourself in the spot between the hot flow and a cool feeder stream that is most comfortable for you.

Liard River Hot Springs
Plus, it has a lovely deck and changing area.

Beautiful facilities
We were surprised at how good the road is ...

Gorgeous
... a few loose-gravel sections notwithstanding ...

Occasional dust
Don't get me wrong -- it is beautiful and it is an adventure; just not as arduous or as time-filling as we expected (plus, the few interesting things we passed today closed at 5, too early for us to visit).

The Little Guy crossing the Kiskatinaw Curved Bridge
Tonight we're in Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon. A very sparkling clean city. Tomorrow we leave the Alaska Highway to drive the less-used route to Dawson City. 

Happy to be in the Yukon
There was food!
I hope at least gas stations are open. 

We'll travel on most of the rest of the Alaska Highway in a few weeks when we drive from Valdez to Haines to catch the ferry to Juneau.

Oh, and let's talk about daylight. We haven't seen dark for a few days. We hear it occurs some time between midnight and 3:00 a.m. By then, we're tucked into the Little Guy snoozing.


Trip date: June 3-July 20, 2013

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