Kenai Fjords National Park and Chiswell islands: Birds

Horned Puffin

As I mentioned in my first post about my Kenai Fjords Tour to Northwestern Glacier, our captain, Capt. Lindstrom, had deep knowledge about birds. He went out of his way to show us interesting birds.

And, even though I went with no great expectations, I came back with better Horned and Tufted Puffin pictures than I had ever taken ...

Top: Horned Puffin; Bottom: Tufted Puffin

... some nice “regulars” ...

A Common Murre

... and three lifers ...

Parakeet Auklets

Puffins

I have blogged about Puffins before, but the topic was the other species, Atlantic Puffins. The birds in Alaska are Horned Puffins …

I love that face ...

… and Tufted Puffins …

... and that "hairstyle"

Both species are widespread in the North Pacific Ocean. 

Horned Puffins nest on coastlines and offshore islands from British Columbia (where they are rare) to Alaska, and southwest to the Sea of Okhotsk and the Kuril Islands in Russia. In Alaska, the largest colonies are concentrated in the northwest Gulf of Alaska and along the Alaska Peninsula in the Semidi, Shumagin and Sanak islands.

On the wing

The Horned Puffin population is estimated at 1.2 million. Although information on population status is very limited, boat-based surveys suggest an overall 79 percent decline of Horned Puffins from 1972-1998, most likely because of a decline in preferred prey.

The smaller of the two Alaskan Puffins, Horned Puffins have an average wingspan of 23 inches and weight of 17 ounces. In summer, they have a small, fleshy, dark "horn" above each eye (hence the name) and a brightly colored orange and red bill.

Horned Puffins were called "sea parrot" and "clown of the sea" by early sailors

Outer layers of the bright bill are shed in late summer, leaving a smaller, drab bill. During the winter, their legs and feet fade to a pale fleshy color and the face is a shade of grey and black.

They eat herring, capelin, sandlance, anchovies, rockfish, sculpin and crustaceans, such as shrimp and krill. Using spines on their tongues and the roofs of their mouths, they can catch multiple fish at a time. They can carry up to 80 sand eels back to the burrow to feed their young

Look at that face

The Tufted Puffin is widespread in the North Pacific Ocean and nest on coastlines and offshore islands from southern California to Alaska and across the ocean from Japan to the shores of northeastern Asia. It has an average wingspan in 30 inches and weighs about 24 ounces. 

Look at those tufts

In the summer, it has distinctive breeding plumage that includes golden plumes behind the eyes, a bright white facemask and a reddish orange bill with a beige bill covering, called a rhamphotheca, at the base.

When breeding ends in the early summer, Tufted Puffins lose their plumes and face mask, the bright colors of the bill turn to a dull reddish-brown and their overall appearance is that of a simple dark black seabird.

They eat small fish, squid, octopus, crabs, zooplankton and jellyfish.

Although Puffins spend a majority of the year on the ocean, they build their nests on the shores of islands and coastal regions. Chiswell is a major breeding spot.

Puffins require shores with steep, grassy, sloping land with soil that allows them to dig burrows. Their burrows are typically two to six feet long, and four to six inches in diameter.

Once Pufflings (baby Puffins) leave the nest, they do not return to land until three-five years later, when they have found a mate and are ready to breed.

“Repeat” Birds 

We saw many birds that I have seen before. That included two types of Murres – Common and Thick-billed …

Both types together

… sharing a common nesting area on a cliff …

Nesting birds

I have blogged about both birds before: Common Murres here ...

Common Murre

… and Thick-billed here ...

Thick-billed Murre

We were surprised by a Peregrine Falcon … 

Peregrine Falcon

... buzzing some very steep cliffs …

There may be a Peregrine Falcom in this photo

And, of course, there were lots of Black-legged Kittiwakes …

 

There were thousands of them

We saw a few Lesser Scaups …

Taking off

We also saw a number of Murrelets, both Marbled, which I had seen before, and Kittlitz’s, which I had never even heard of. Both were very hard to see and even harder to photograph. We saw the Kittlitz’s twice and I knew I missed photographing it the first time. The second time, I thought I got it. But, it turns out all I got was the Marbled …

Marbled Murrelet

Saw it, just no photo!

Lifers

The biggest thrill was three (THREE) lifers. I already mentioned the Kittlitz’s Murrelet, which I had never heard of …

 

Kittlitz's Murrelet; Photo: eBird

Another I never heard of was the Red-faced Cormorant, a glossy-black bird with a cherry-red face and yellowish bill during the breeding season, along with a bold square of white feathers on its flanks. 

Nesting with Black-legged Kittiwakes

These birds inhabit some of the most remote places in Alaska and eastern Asia, where they overlap with the very similar (but slightly smaller) Pelagic Cormorant.

They are hardy and shy, building nests on steep cliff faces overlooking the North Pacific. 

This is the one that the birding guide ID'd

They are less social than other Cormorant species and often nest in single pairs rather than in colonies.

Finally, we saw lots of cute little Parakeet Auklets, flying …

Really cute little birds

... and landing in rather large groups …

The most common bird (behind Kittiwakes) we saw on this trip

A small seabird of the North Pacific, Parakeet Auklets are closely related to Crested and Least Auklets. They breed on the cliffs, slopes and boulder fields of offshore islands, generally moving south during the winter. Like other members of the Auk family, Parakeet Auklets forage at sea, sometimes in small flocks, diving and swimming in pursuit of prey such as jellies and small crustaceans.

Its oddly shaped bill is almost circular in outline and its large feet help it steer and stabilize when foraging underwater and may help it excavate burrows. 

Big feet

Parakeet Auklets sometimes take over burrows of Cassin's Auklets, Tufted Puffins and Ancient Murrelets, but in turn, their own burrows are sometimes commandeered by Horned Puffins. 

Chiswell Islands

Many of the birds we saw were at the Chiswell Islands, a group of rocky, uninhabited islands, accessible only by boat or airplane, 35 miles south of Seward. 

Photo I took in 2018

They are not in the National Park; rather they are part of the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge and an important bird sanctuary.

The islands appear to rise vertically out of the sea with no horizontal beaches, thus keeping birds protected from some predators.

The rise right out of the water

Final Thoughts

So, the boat tour was a big success (four separate blog posts!). 

I am glad I did this

Beautiful scenery … 

Mountain, glacier and ocean

Incredible wildlife, on land …

Steller Sea Lions

… and sea ...

Female Orca

And, of course, great birds …

Horned Puffin

I believe in the past, the tour was narrated by a Kenai Fjords National Park Ranger who came on board for the duration of the trip (granted, this could have been how they did it 20 years ago). But, now, much was done by Capt. Lindstrom, who told us that he has been doing these tours for 28 years. A naturalist, also on board, was knowledgeable and personable without resorting to the cheesy joke-laden dialogue you get on some tours.

A breathtaking place to eat lunch

Lunch, a nice chicken wrap with chips, was served, as were fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies. A small snack bar offered tea, coffee, hot chocolate and some souvenirs.

The ride was generally smooth, even in the Gulf of Alaska, which can get choppy. I have been on some trips that were rough. If you are prone to sea sickness, be prepared with wrist bands and/or sea-sickness medication. 

A little bit of movement

I generally spend almost the entire cruise on deck, which is better for motion issues. And, that means warm clothing is critical. I find that wind pants and a jacket over fleece do the trick. Gloves and a hat are a must. 

The Kenai Fjords boat trip is one of my favorite things to do. Yep, I’ll probably do it again …

Northwestern Glacier

… and maybe again ...

Kenai Fjords National Park

Trip date: June 16-24, 2022