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| Nice place for a walk |
More Bears, of course!
I mentioned that Scott had been unhappy with our 2021 visit to Alaska, including a botched (not his fault) fishing trip and a wonderful visit by me (that didn’t include him) to Brooks Camp in Katmai National Park.
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| I went at the end of the season in 2021 |
The only way to “fix” it would be to go back to Brooks and let him get some good Bear photos.
Of course, that’s crazy. It is tough to get reservations to Brooks Camp.
Getting There
But, he got some! Two nights in a cabin! I didn’t think it was possible. He booked them through Bristol Adventures, which handled the cabin plus the air travel to and from Brooks. This is important because there are just two ways to get to Brooks Camp: by boat or by air.
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| Naknek Lake is essentially a huge landing strip |
This trip is not cheap. The airfare for one person is the same as the room for a night. Although I had been to Brooks Camp three times before, I had never stayed overnight. The other trips were fly-ins – twice from the Farm Lodge in Lake Clark National Park and once from Homer.
This time, we would fly from Anchorage to King Salmon on RAVN Air and then via float plane from King Salmon to Brooks camp on Katmai Air. The return flight would be a Katmai float plane back to King Salmon and then back to Anchorage on ACE Air.
When I learned of the schedule, I regretted not staying overnight in King Salmon first because I had always wanted to see King Salmon. Spoiler alert: after seeing King Salmon, this lack of knowledge may have been a blessing.
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| King Salmon is for fishing; Photo: Bristol Adventures |
I was a bit nervous about two things before we left.
First, one reason we were able to get a cabin was that our dates were before the normal arrival of the first Salmon run. Would there be fish? And, if not, would there be Bears? In other words, had we invested a lot of money and hope into two days watching an empty waterfall.
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| The fish are what draw the Bears |
This fear was exacerbated by the fact that the explore.org Bearcams were not even up and running yet, so we couldn’t check to see if any Bears were at the Falls. These webcams were set to turn on the morning we were booked to fly to Brooks Camp, so we were hoping that that meant they expected some Bear action.
Second, weather is always an issue when small planes and Alaska are in the equation. Would we be able to get there?
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| Fog and overcast |
The morning of our departure eased those fears. It was gorgeous! Blue sky, warm temperatures, wispy clouds. Yes, it would be a good trip.
We had stored some luggage at our hotel in Anchorage and we had ditched our rental car. So, we took a shuttle bright and early for our 7:00 a.m. flight with our two bags each – one to check and one for cameras.
Of course, this was the first time any airline ever weighed my carry-on and it was too heavy. So, I had to move lots of stuff before I was able to check in.
Then, over to the gate to wait.
Right after we sat down, RAVN announced a delay because of fog. What? We had clear skies, but apparently King Salmon and Brooks didn't.
Then, they announced that the flight was CANCELLED and the next flight was at 6:00 p.m.
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| We just wanted to get there! |
A whole day of our trip! And we had no car to do anything else.
This wouldn’t do. And, this is where booking the whole thing with Bristol paid off. I called them and they handled it all (except getting the money I paid RAVN to check bags, which I eventually got back). They picked us up and drove us to the Katmai Air terminal at the Anchorage airport (Bristol and Katmai air appear to be owned by the same company!) and put us on a plane to Naknek that would the continue on to King Salmon so we could connect with Katmai to Brooks.
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| The route |
So, off we went.
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| A really nice plane |
The flight over was spectacular, with incredible views of Mount Redoubt.
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| A beautiful view |
We didn’t really see much bad weather, but we found out that Brooks Camp is usually fogged in in the morning in June.
Naknek was not spectacular. Rather, it looked like just a small community on a wide marshy plain.
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| Flat after the mountains |
We had to sit and wait awhile on the tarmac because King Salmon traffic was backed up by the fog.
When we finally arrived In King Salmon, the terminal was one of the nastiest places I had ever been, with trash everywhere, rust-stained toilets and sinks and chairs you would not want to sit in. Fortunately, Katmai Air picked us up quickly and took us to their beautiful facility on the edge of the water where our floatplane would take off.
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| I didn't photograph the nasty terminal; this one was as nice as I've seen in Alaska |
Then, finally, we boarded a refurbished 1955 Otter floatplane (Pilot: “This plane was sent to Vietnam; I wasn’t”) for the brief trip to Brooks Camp.
We flew below the lifting fog (about 200 feet above the water the whole way) and finally arrived.
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| Meeting us at the "gate" |
Just a couple of hours late rather than missing a whole day and in time for lunch in the Brooks Camp Dining Hall.
Brooks Camp
I have blogged about Brooks Falls before (here and here), but I have never stayed there. So, just a little about the facilities before I talk about Bears.
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| Brooks Camp |
Brooks Camp is a small lodging area at the mouth of the Brooks River in Katmai National Park.
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| Brooks Camp; Left photo: Scott Stevens |
When Brooks Camp opened in 1950, it could manage 30 guests who slept in nine tent cabins with wooden floors, windows, doors, screen doors, cots and sleeping bags.
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| Tent cabins; Photo: NPS |
The first Bear viewing platform at the Falls and a temporary foot bridge across the mouth of Brooks River were constructed in 1981-82.
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| Raised platform |
Brooks Lodge and the dining room were expanded in 1984, and the last of the original camp tent frames were removed in 1985-86.
The Main Falls Platform was built in 1997. The raised platform to the Falls was built in 2000. Before that, you had to hike, unprotected, through the woods to get to the Falls.
While the lodging and dining is run by Bristol Adventures, Brooks Camp sits on Katmai National Park and is governed by Katmai rules, which, as you would expect in an area filled with large apex predators, are pretty strict.
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| 2022 pin, designed by a 13-year-old Alaska girl |
Rule #2: No food – NO FOOD – anywhere but designated areas, which include the Dining Room, the food cache and the electric-fence-enclosed picnic area and campground. The rule applies to drinks, candy and gum. Bears have good noses and bad manners.
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| Places you can put food |
Rule #3: If you encounter a Bear anywhere, give it the right of way. Step off the path if necessary. Just let the Bear win. It will anyway.
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| They are dangerous animals |
Rule #5: Never run from a Bear. During a close encounter, speak to the Bear in a calm voice and back away from the Bear until it resumes normal activities like resting, traveling or feeding. Because Bears may not recognize small children as humans, they should be supervised and under the control of an adult at all times.
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| You are pretty exposed out there |
Rule #7: When on pathways and boardwalks, keep walking and stop only at the designated viewing areas. Access to the bridge may be closed when Bears are within 50 yards of the trail on either end.
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| There is ample room at the river |
Rule #8: Never leave equipment unattended; Bears may steal it and use it as a toy. Not good for a camera or a jacket or a pair of shoes.
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| The lodge staff leaves the bags out; I wonder if Bears ever get them |
Rule #9: If fishing, never let a Bear acquire a fish from you. If a Bear approaches within 50 yards, stop fishing, remove all lures from the water and be prepared to break your fishing line if necessary.
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| Fishing in Bear country can be tricky |
The above list is mine, using published rules plus things I learned in Bear class. I have no idea how many rules there really are.
Lodging
But, back to our experience staying there. We had an adorable little cabin that looked out over a meadow and part of the river.
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| Our cabin; Photos: Scott Stevens |
It had two bunk beds, a sink, a shower and a toilet and a small desk. It could hold four people, but that would be tight.
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| The room (a bit messy) |
Unlike a lot of places, however, Brooks charges for the room rather than a per-person fee. Therefore, the more people, the less cost per person for a bed.
Not all rooms have bathroom facilities, so Brooks Camp also has a shower house.
There is also a campground on the property, but we never visited it.
Even with an electric fence, I am not sure I could camp in a place with so, so many Bears. I prefer the cabin, with its sturdy wall, heat and hot water.
It turns out that we got a deluxe cabin with a great, unobstructed view the river.
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| We could even see Bears from our porch |
Food is not included with the room, but there is a dining room where you can get breakfast, lunch and dinner.
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| Dining Hall; Photos: Scott Stevens |
The food – served buffet style – is pretty standard. But, it was hot and filling and not too ridiculously priced.
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| The buffet |
Hint: if you see a dessert you want on the buffet, take it when you fill your plate. They run out of the good stuff quickly.
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| Photo: Scott Stevens |
Plus, there’s a small store behind the office that rents fishing gear and sells snack foods, drinks, shirts, hats, camping and fishing supplies and all the usual stuff you'd expect at a wilderness location.
Scott bought a hoodie because, despite Anchorage's balmy temps, it was a bit chilly at Brooks.
And, there's even a bar that serves a pretty good Margarita.
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| Cozy |
It's a nice place to have a drink or a cup of tea (available 24/7 along with coffee) or to crash while waiting for a meal, a flight (they come and fetch you when your plane is ready) or more energy to get up and get back out to look for Bears.
Walkways
Brooks Camp has five elevated viewing platforms that allow visitors to view Bears safely at close distances.
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| Very nice pathways |
They can be reached via a trail that includes both elevated, gated boardwalks and an open path through the woods.
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| Map: NPS |
The Main Falls Platform is open from 7:00 a.m. to 10: p.m. (when it is light out) and the other areas are accessible 24 hours a day.
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| No bears or Salmon here |
It is along this 1.2-mile path that people often encounter Bears.
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| And, we did see one |
Because Bears often walk beside and below the boardwalks, guests are supposed to keep walking, stopping only at the designated platforms.
I will admit that I have broken this rule a few times to get photos.
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| You'd stop, wouldn't you? |
However (and this probably isn’t a valid excuse), I have never been to Brooks Camp during a serious Salmon run, so the Park hasn’t been particularly crowded. I think it would be a different story with a big crowd.
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| Will he make it? |
When on the platforms, people are asked to keep voices low and avoid cheering for Bears. Cheering for Bears? Once you watch them trying to fish, you’ll understand.
And, although there is no rule about cheering for the Sockeye Salmon as they attempt to jump over the falls as they forge their way upstream, I think it is frowned on.
I doubt the cheering would deter the Salmon; but it might bother the Bears.
Flash cameras are prohibited and photographers are asked to not use tripods during busy times (monopods are fine).
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| The platform, 2021 |
For space considerations, the Main Falls Platform has a maximum capacity of 40 people. When it is busy, visitors can have their time on the Main Falls Platform limited (usually a maximum of an hour at a time) if others are waiting to get on. I have had this happen only once. During the main Salmon runs, it is part of the process.
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| The Main Falls Platform |
Neither the Riffles nor the three Lower River Platforms have a time or capacity limit.
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| The view from the Riffles Platform |
While most Bears are seen along this route, they can be anywhere. I have seen them in Camp and on the beach. So, one must always be wary.
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| I think a Bear did this to the shower house |
Encounters
I saw 13 Bears (I think; some are hard to tell apart) while at Brooks this time. It’s not a particularly high number for a place that can have 30 Bears in the River at the same time (maybe some day I’ll come in July for a big Salmon run), but it was the majority of the Bears that had arrived at Brooks Camp in 2022.
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| Most of the Bears I saw |
Most were at the Falls, but we also saw some in Camp, at the mouth of the River and along the boardwalk.
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| A boardwalk Bear |
We even encountered a huge male – Bear #747 – along the road right by the beginning of the path.
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| That's a BIG Bear |
We were leaving the Falls and had just reached the road where there is a small building housing two vault toilets.
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| Where the road and path meet; Photo: Scott Stevens |
As Scott headed toward the restrooms, I saw this behemoth rounding the corner coming right toward me.
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| That was a heart-stopper |
We kept conversing loud enough for him to hear us and stationed ourselves right by the toilets – holding the door open in case we need to escape.
747 passed about ten feet in front of us ...
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| Not cropped! |
... and headed down the trail toward the Falls ...
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| He knew where he was going |
We waited about ten minutes and then returned to the Falls, assuming that was where he was heading. Although we saw him ahead of us on the trail for awhile, he must have veered off because people coming the other way hadn’t seen him.
When we got to the Falls, he wasn’t there. But, he showed up a few minutes later and promptly got in the water ...
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| Look at the dirt cascading off of him |
He never fished, just sat in the water for awhile.
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| A nice soak |
Maybe that heavy bearskin gets hot!
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| Shake it off |
About 21 years old, he was first seen in 2004 and was given his number long before he “grew into it.” Now, he truly is a jumbo jet of a Bear.
In 2020, #747 won Brooks Falls’ “Fat Bear Week” contest (which has people around the world voting on which Bear appears to have fattened up the most over the summer).
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| Explore.org has called him "Bear Force One" |
He is also fierce, sporting a number of scars indicating injuries that might have destroyed a lesser Bear.
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| Missing fur and a barely attached ear |
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| The water revealed a slashed throat |
Because Alaska's Bears lose up to a third of their weight during their deep winter slumber, I expected all the Bears we saw to be thin. After all, the Salmon hadn’t arrived yet. And, while quite a few were relatively svelte, #747 was already huge.
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| Huge legs and huge claws |
By the end of the summer, he will undoubtedly top 1,000 lbs. again.
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| And, this is his slim physique |
Yes, these coastal Alaska Brown Bears are much larger than their petite cousins in Yellowstone and even Denali National Parks.
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| A wet Bear |
He’s probably the biggest, baddest Bear I’ve ever seen. And, he walked right by me!
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| A close encounter |
We had more encounters with more Bears, but you’ll have to wait until my next post.
Trip date: June 16-24, 2022
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