Saturday, December 25, 2021

Hringvegur Plus #16: Reykjanes and Goodbye!

Gunnuhver Hot Springs on the Reykjanes Peninsula; Photo: Scott Stevens
On our last two days in Iceland, in addition to getting a COVID test and juggling the rental cars, we managed to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula more thoroughly than we ever had before. And, we had some pleasant surprises. 

They actually did do it our way!
The first happy occurrance had to do with the car. As I mentioned in my first installment of this series, I had to rent a separate car for our last day because I was not able to extend my Reykjavik-based rental and I couldn’t get an affordable car at the airport. 

However, as I hoped would happen, when we went to pick up the car at Keflavik Airport, we explained the situation and Europcar combined the two rentals. We got to keep the car we had, we didn’t have to drive to and from Reykjavik and we were able to turn the car in to the office at Keflavik.

Keflavik is convenient to anything on the peninsula
We did discover in that process that the rental car companies at Keflavik no longer have shuttle buses. Instead, you have to walk maybe a quarter of a mile. It’s not bad, but not great if you have luggage. So, we decided that we would go to the airport early on departure day, park, check luggage and then return the rental car. It was a good plan and the parking was free because it took us less than 15 minutes to take care of things at the airport. 

But, I am ahead of myself. Let's talk about Reykjanes.

Reykjanes Peninsula
Chart: Wikipedia
The Mid-Atlantic rift, which separates the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, runs across the entire country of Iceland and, indeed, is why Iceland exists because the magma that fueled Iceland’s volcanoes rose up through this rift. 

Volcanic and geothermal activity is visible almost everywhere, especially on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

This landscape makes development difficult
The area is covered with lava fields, hot springs and evidence of past eruptions. 

During the Middle Ages, many eruptions occurred in Reykjanes, but none had been recorded there since. Until Fagradalsfjall poked its head out this year, that is.

Not much grows except tundra-type plants
The shrinking, bubbling lake
Earthquakes are common, although we haven't experienced one in all our trips to Iceland.

In 2001, one beneath Lake Kleifarvatn drained it to the extent that it lost 25 percent of its surface area. Since then, hot springs have been bubbling beneath its surface.

The geothermal power station at Svartsengi  produces 76.5 MW of electricity from the 475 litres of 195 °F water that gushes from the earth per second. The mineral-rich surplus water fills up the Blue Lagoon Spa, which is one of Iceland's most popular tourist attractions. We didn't visit this time. I much prefer natural pools to this manufactured spa.

Power plant, Blue Lagoon (Bláa Lónið), 2014
The Peninsula's north side is dotted with fishing villages and towns, most notably Keflavík (where the airport is located), Sandgerði, Garður and Vogar. Grindavík (where we stayed) is located on the south shore of the peninsula. The towns on Reykjanes make up the municipality Reykjanesbær, which has less than 16,000 residents, but is still the fifth largest municipality in Iceland.

It's more scenery than people
Known for violent waves and wind, Reykjanes would probably erode away if it weren't for replenishment from volcanic eruptions.

Below the Reykjanestá Cliffs
Let me tell you about the places we visited on the Reykjanes Peninsula, some on the morning before we drove back out to Vík í Mýrdal and most on our last day before our late afternoon departure.

Krísuvíkurberg Cliffs
Primarily known for 60,000+ nesting birds that were long gone when we visited, the black volcanic Krísuvíkurberg Cliffs drop abruptly from a flat grassy plain to the ocean. 

Lava cliffs jutting into the ocean
On the blustery day we were there, they looked moody and dramatic. But, without birds, there wasn’t a lot to see. 

There were Northern Wheatears!
Gunnuhver Hot Springs 
A colorful geothermal field of mud pools and fumaroles, Gunnuhver drives home the unpredictability and instability of geothermal areas. One of the mud pools has expanded in recent years and, now, you can see the engulfed remains of the old path. 

Walking could be dangerous
Danger!!!!
The groundwater here is seawater, unlike other geothermal areas in Iceland. The water temperature can reach more than 570 °F, so it is wise to heed the warning signs. 

After seeing the destroyed path, you wonder if the (obviously new) platform is even safe.

The geothermal areas have vibrant colors
Gunnuhver is named after Gunna, a woman who lived on a farm on the Reykjanes Peninsula about four hundred years ago. She was quite poor and when she was unable to pay her rent, her landlord took one of her only possessions, a cooking pot, as payment. 

Drawing: SilviaDottiIllustration
Enraged, said she would starve herself until it was given back. Neither relented and she died of hunger. As her coffin was being carried to her grave, it suddenly became very light and a whisper echoed to the congregation, saying “no need deep to dig, no plans long to lie.”

The body of the landlord was later found mutilated and his wife was found murdered. Everyone suspected that Gunna’s ghost was responsible. She then began to haunt the peninsula, driving many residents mad. The locals asked a priest named Eirikur to help. 

Drawing: Vintage Times
He left one end of a ball of yarn where Gunna was known to haunt and told residents to unfurl the ball as they walked to the hot spring. When there, they were to throw the ball into the boiling water. Gunna picked up the end to follow their trail and, when the yarn was thrown into the hot spring, it took her with it. Some say that you can still see her fighting to escape, and as such, the hot springs took her name.

Near Gunnuhver there are lots of industrial areas tapping into the underground hot springs. On a cool, misty day, they create some pretty impressive steam clouds.

Nearby industrial action
Reykjanes Light
Reykjanes Light
We saw the Reykjanes Light when we were walking around Gunnuhver. We consulted Google maps to find our way there, only to discover that it is a big tourist attraction we should have known about.

The first lighthouse in Iceland was constructed on the Reykjanes Peninsula in 1878, only to be destroyed by an earthquake eight years later.

The current lighthouse was built on the site in 1907-08 and was upgraded in 1929. At 102 feet tall, it has a much more traditional look than most of the industrial-looking lights in Iceland.

The best lighthouse in Iceland
It sits majestically on the top of a hill and has been determined to be Icelanders’ favorite lighthouse. Unfortunately, the hill it sits on is eroding and the lighthouse may need to be replaced soon. 

Reykjanestá Cliffs
Just beyond the lighthouse are the Reykjanestá Cliffs, which are also active nesting sites for European Herring Gulls, Northern Fulmars, Black-legged Kittiwakes and Ravens in the summer.

An interesting uplift where lava met ocean
No birds remained when we visited, except a statue that I thought was oddly placed and strangely large.

Great Auk
It turns out that it is an accurately sized statue of a Great Auk by American artist T McGrain. The statue faces Eldey island, where the last two birds of the species were killed in 1844.

Even devoid of birds, Reykjanestá Cliffs is an interesting spot that bears testament to Iceland’s violent and turbulent creation. Here, the waves are regularly known to reach heights of nearly 100 feet.

Lava cliffs, sea stacks and boulders are pounded by the sea, creating dramatic landscapes
Brimketill Lava Rock Pool
Carved by pounding waves against soft lava rock, Brimketill is a large natural pool that sits at the bottom of a cliff at the ocean's edge. 

While centuries old, the lava still seems new
I found out about it by reading an article in Guide to Iceland that talked about the treacherousness of visiting it in winter. It appears, however, that the article was written before an observation deck was built. 

Brimketill would be hard to find without signs and a path
Now, it’s not too scary, but based on the seaweed littering the deck and the shore, it appears it can get crazy when the sea is rough or the tide is high.

It looks like the sea can get violent
From the deck, you can look down on the pool that fills with water as waves rush in, creating whirlpools in the water. Indeed, Brimketill means “whitewater cauldron.” Local folklore says that the natural pool was owned by a giantess, who used it to wash her clothes and bathe.

I guess it beats bathing in the ocean (how would you even get down there?)
The Bridge between Two Continents
The the Mid-Atlantic Rift bisects Iceland. West Iceland, much of the north and much of the Highlands is in North America and the rest of Iceland is on Eurasia.

A bridge over the rift
Signage onsite
The best place to actually see the Mid-Atlantic Rift  is in Þingvellir National Park, which we have visited on past visits and didn't stop at this time because we passed it during a downpour. But, there is a good spot to visit on Reykjanes. The Bridge Between the Continent sits in the rift and runs in the direction between the plates, providing a symbolic opportunity to walk from North America to Eurasia. 

I assume the bridge must be moved or shored up frequently as the rift slides 
It’s just a little bit of geologic fun.
 
The love-ly path to the bridge (art courtesy of local school kids)
Time to Go
By the time we left, we felt that we had thoroughly seen the Reykjanes Peninsula, except for that pesky volcano.

The trip
Originally, I thought this would be my last trip to Iceland (except maybe as a pass through to other spots, like Greenland). 

But, now I still need to see an active volcano. Plus, we saw so many places I would like to return to.

So, who knows?

But, we did finally have to leave. It was an easy trip home.


And, it was a marvelous trip. We put over 4,000 miles on our rental car and we saw almost everything one can see around the perimeter of this beautiful country.

The Hringvegur rocks!; Top photo: Scott Stevens
I picked up six new birds, bringing my count to 698, and I saw a couple of Icelandic Arctic Foxes in the wild.

Wild things
The whale watching wasn’t as satisfying as I had hoped and we didn’t see as much aurora as we would have liked.

But, we did see some!
But, the fjords!

Such beauty!
The charming buildings!

A variety of rustic and colorful buildings; Bottom right photo: Scott Stevens
The waterfalls!

Goðafoss; Photo: Scott Stevens
The mountains!

Massive peaks everywhere
The surprises!

Unexpected delights
The glaciers!

One of the driving forces of Iceland
The horses!

Icelandic Horse; Photo: Scott Stevens
The ancient cairns! 

Such history; Photos: Scott Stevens
The glacial lagoon!

Jökulsárlón; Photo: Scott Stevens
The Puffins!

Such a treat!
Iceland is a spectacular country. It’s easy to get to and easy to travel in. While a bit pricey on the food and beverage side, there are lots of affordable (and often interesting) lodging choices. The people are nice and there is little crime. And, you can truly, truly get away from it all when there. I highly recommend that you go.

Ah! Iceland!
Here are links to see all the photos I posted on Facebook from this trip.



Trip date: August 13-September 1, 2021
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Friday, December 24, 2021

Hringvegur Plus #15: Golden Circle

Our one new "discovery"
As I mentioned, the weather got pretty bad on the Reykjanes Peninsula during our final days.

Dreary
In our attempt to escape it, we headed up to Gullfoss on the “Golden Circle.” It’s ironic because I originally had booked one night at the Hotel Gullfoss and then changed it so that we could visit the volcano that we couldn’t visit because of fog. 

Gullfoss
Gullfoss is a spectacular waterfall and worth seeing in any weather, but this weather was pretty bad.

It's Gullfoss after all; Photo: Scott Stevens
Still we braved it for another look. I’ve seen it in all seasons. Summer is pretty. 

 
But, I must say I prefer winter. 

Photo: Caty Stevens, 2015
I have written about Gullfoss before, so I will just recap briefly: One of the most popular tourist attractions in Iceland, Gullfoss (“Gold Falls”) makes a sharp turn, falls over a three-step “staircase” and then drops 105 feet in two stages into a narrow canyon.

The scale is difficult to grasp; it is really impressive in person
This route gives viewers an interesting perspective from several viewing platforms above the river. 

Wet tourists walking to the closest viewing area; Photo: Scott Stevens
We went to both levels and even walked in the driving rain out to the end. We did not go to the end of the lower platform because the rain PLUS wind was soaking everyone who traveled that way. We got wet enough as it was. 

A damp walk
Had I never been before, I would have braved it. But, I have been to Gullfoss on prettier days. 

You can see the people getting soaked; this trail closes in winter because of ice
As I walked down the trail I surprised to see a caterpillar on such a chilly day. I haven’t seen a lot of bugs in Iceland, but this little guy was doggedly crossing the path.

A Broom Moth Caterpillar minding its own business on the trail
Not much happening this time
Geysir
While on this excursion, we also stopped briefly at Geysir, which I have also written about before. This is one of Iceland’s main geothermal areas and the home of the original geyser, Geysir, from which all spouts of superheated geothermal water get their names. 

Mushroom soup, 2015
It was pretty miserable, so we didn’t spend a lot of time there (as I have said before, it is far less impressive than Yellowstone). 

But, we did stop at the very nice café for lunch. They make excellent soup. I recommend the mushroom if it is on the menu. 

Kerið Crater 
The one “new” place (new for us) we stopped at on this outing was Kerið, a lake at the bottom of a small intact volcanic caldera. 

Finally, a pretty volcanic lake!
Developed as a tourist attraction, it has a nice walking trail around it and to the bottom. I only walked around the top because Scott was waiting in the car. Plus, I think the coolest thing is the view from above. 

Kerið is one of the few places we visited with an entrance fee, which is only about $3.00.

I don't mind paying a fee if it does good
Like the other volcanic rock in this area (but not all of Iceland), Kerið is composed of red (rather than black) volcanic rock. The 3,000-year-old caldera is approximately 180 feet deep, 560 feet wide and 890 feet across. It is about half the age of most of the surrounding volcanic features.

A sister cadera next door isn't deep enough for a lake
Most of the crater is steep-walled with little vegetation, but one side has a more gentle slope and is covered with a deep moss.

The trail goes down the gentle side
Don't believe everything you see
The depth of the mineral-rich lake ranges from 22 to 45 feet. It is a bright, but fairly opaque, aquamarine color. 

I have seen aerial photos that depict it as a giant eyeball. But, those pictures are highly photoshopped.

The lake actually looks like, well, a lake. But, the colors are as vibrant as my photos show.

Although volcanologists originally believed Kerið was formed by a huge volcanic explosion, as is the accepted norm with volcanic craters, more thorough studies of the region failed to find any evidence of such an explosion in Kerið. It is now believed that Kerið was a cone volcano that erupted and emptied its magma reserve. Once the magma was depleted, the weight of the cone collapsed into the empty magma chamber.

The colors are amazing!
The current pool of water at the bottom of the crater is at the same level as the water table and is not caused by rainfall. It was a nice stop on a gloomy day that had us zooming past other attractions because they just looked too soggy.


Trip date: August 13-September 1, 2021
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