Thursday, August 11, 2016

Pawnee National Grassland and Nebraska

My daughter, Caty, reminded me that I had not posted anything about our impromptu trip to Scotts Bluff, Nebraska, last month. So, here's a quick overview.

Scotts Bluff
It started innocently enough. Caty had signed us up for a session put on by raptor photographer Rob Palmer where we would shoot photos of Burrowing Owls from a blind near Pawnee National Grassland.  

Burrowing Owl
I had been to the Grassland a few weeks earlier and saw a few Owls, but didn't get any good pictures of them. Just some shots of the beautiful scenery ...

Great sky
... spring wildflowers (gone by this trip) ...

The prettiest time in the Grasslands
... lots and lots of Lark Buntings ...

The Colorado State bird
... some Horned Larks ...

This is a female
... a Vesper Sparrow ...

Sparrows can be tricky
... and some Pronghorns ...

Common on the western plains
Pawnee National Grassland in the South Platte River basin is in an especially depopulated area of the Great Plains. There was limited cultivation in the early 20th century, but most farming stopped after the Dust Bowl. Now, it has mainly cattle.

Cattle coexist with nature
It also has 63 active vertical oil and natural gas wells and seems to be very popular for target shooting.

There are lots of legal target shooting sites off the dirt track
It is also a habitat for Burrowing Owls.

I love these guys
For our owl shoot, we started just after sunrise and spent about three hours watching Burrowing Owl parents catch bugs ...

The ample Grasshoppers and Locusts make great meals
... and fly in to feed their six babies ...

Dinner!
The blind allowed us to get closer than we could have otherwise ... 

A big treat
... but also limited our field of view, so we had a bit of trouble anticipating the fly-ins. 

Hard to see them coming and going
Although the blind gave us access ...

Looking at us
... it was clear the Owls knew we were there. Mama chided us from time to time.

The babies didn't care; she did
Still, it was a fun morning and a great chance to see these fascinating birds.

Watching for parents from the burrow
Plus, we got a visit from a Black-Tailed Jackrabbit.

Much more muscular than a Cottontail
After the session in the blind, we grabbed some more pictures of other Burrowing Owls in the area ...

Taking off
... and then set off to explore around the Grassland.  Because it was now mid-day, we didn't think we'd see any Swift Foxes or Badgers.

We stopped in Crow Valley (one of the few areas with a toilet!) and saw a few birds, including a juvenile American Robin ...

Juveniles are actually prettier than the adults
... and a really cute House Wren ...

A House Wren in its house
As we drove east towards the other part of Pawnee, we noticed that Scotts Bluff National Monument wasn't too far away (in Stevens miles), so we decided to skip the rest of the Grassland and head to Nebraska. 

What the heck, let's go to Nebraska
When we were almost to Scotts Bluff, we started passing a series of bluffs and rock formations that foreshadowed what we would see. One had a huge raptor nest, but we never figured out whether it was an Eagle's or something else.

I suspect Golden Eagle
Scotts Bluff doesn't fit in the mental picture most people have of Nebraska. It comprises a string of very impressive sandstone bluffs rising high above the North Platte River. It ain't flat! In fact, the local Native Americans had called it Me-a-pa-te, which means "the hill that is hard to go around."

Aptly named
The area was a gathering place for  fur traders, missionaries and military expeditions during the 1830s. Beginning in 1841, settlers passed by Scotts Bluff on their way west on the Oregon Trail. Wagon trains used the bluff as a major landmark for navigation. The trail passed through Mitchell Pass, a gap in the bluffs flanked by two large cliffs. 

The other side
Although the route through Mitchell Pass was tortuous and hazardous, many emigrants preferred this route to following the North Platte river bottom on the north side of the bluff. Passage through Mitchell Pass became a significant milestone for many wagon trains on their way westward. Scotts Bluffs very clearly communicated that travelers were done with the plains and were getting ready to cross the Rockies. 

From the top
In one of its first engineering deployments, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers built a smoother road through Mitchell Pass in the early 1850s. Use of the Oregon Trail tapered off in 1869 after the trail was superseded by the completion of the transcontinental railroad.

Since the Oregon Trail computer game was a favorite of my girls, Caty was thrilled to see another real life embodiment of landmarks from the game.

It's a very pretty -- and small -- park with nice roads up to the top of the bluff (through three tunnels built in n the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps)

The route
Scotts Bluff is probably not a destination in itself, but its a great place to stop if you are in western Nebraska, southeastern Wyoming or northeastern Colorado. It has a small Oregon Trail museum and a number of hiking trails. 

This trail was closed because of a rock fall
Ruts from the Oregon Trail are still visible in places.

Note about the name: There has always been some disagreement whether it is Scott's Bluff or Scotts Bluff. A 1843 map labeled the feature Scott's Bluff (with an apostrophe). Another early military map of Nebraska and the Dakotas published in 1875 dropped the apostrophe. Throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the name was spelled with and without an apostrophe. In a final decision by the United States Board on Geographical Names rendered on June 11, 1941, the name Scotts Bluff (without an apostrophe) was officially adopted.

No apostrophe
Following our visit, we decided to drive just a little further east to go to Chimney Rock National Historic Site, another iconic Oregon Trail landmark.

Our next destination in the distance
Not to be confused with the million or so other chimney rocks in the nation, this one rises nearly 300 feet above the surrounding North Platte River valley and is visible for many miles from the east. For those slogging across the plains along the Oregon Trail, it clearly said, "you are making progress."

A beacon of sorts
Based on sketches, paintings, written accounts and an 1897 photograph, Chimney Rock was taller when it was first seen by settlers, but has been reduced in height since then by erosion and lightning.

Chimney Rock
The official Nebraska quarter features a covered wagon headed west past Chimney Rock, memorializing Nebraska's role in westward migration. 

We arrived just before the Visitor Center closed and photographed as the sun started to set.

Day's end
It was a long drive back to Fort Collins, but a fun day with wildlife, history and three states!


Trip date: June 26, 2016

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