Thursday, March 22, 2018

South Texas – Padre Island

Royal Terns
I had enough time on my final day in Texas to go check out Padre Island, another beach that I had scoffed at, but never really visited. 

Unexpected beauty
Boy, was I in for a surprise! The beach was gorgeous! 

Of course, the fact that the sun gloriously appeared (for the first time since I arrived in Texas) and the temperature climbed from the 50s to the 70s also helped a lot. This was the weather I had hoped for.

Oh, I said it was gorgeous, but I still think a beach needs to have white sand to be on the top of the list. Padre Island's is emphatically brown.

Tracks
Padre Island is the longest undeveloped barrier island in the world, providing a break between Corpus Christi and the Gulf of Mexico (incidentally, the largest gulf in the world). The majority of Padre Island comprises Padre Island National Seashore, which protects beaches, tidal flats, dunes, coastal grasslands and some wetlands. Unfortunately, it also seems to protect mosquitoes – be advised if you go. I had to return to the car for more insect repellent when I tried to hike.

Dunes
The National Seashore is 70 miles long with 65.5 miles of Gulf beach. Most of the park is primitive and most of the beach is accessible exclusively to four-wheel-drive vehicles. The paved park road is only about five miles long, after which you must drive on the beach.  All but four miles of the island is open to vehicle traffic. I had a rental car, so I didn't drive very far out to the beach.

A wide expanse
A program to re-establish a nesting beach for Kemp's Ridley Sea Turtles on Padre Island was begun in 1978. These turtles had been decimated by shrimpers’ nets and their popularity in Mexico for leather and as food. In 1992, the first two turtles from the program returned to Padre Island beach to lay their eggs. Wildlife officials released 10,594 hatchlings along the Texas coast this year.

Breaking waves
Due to the location of Padre Island National Seashore on the Central Flyway, a major migratory route for birds, about 380 species of birds have been documented within the park, which represents approximately 45 percent of all bird species documented in North America. It would be fun to come back during migration.

I did see lots of Brown Pelicans (lots of them) ...

I tried counting, but gave up
Laughing Gulls ...

A juvenile
Sanderlings ....

Looking for food
Forster's Terns (we saw them at Laguna Atascosa, but they were too far away for pictures); here they posed nicely ...

First photos
Royal Terns, waiting to fly ...

In formation
... and flying ...

Beautiful
Alone and in groups ...

A bit clumsy, though
Because of proximity to refineries offshore oil wells, I expected the beach to be filthy. But, it looked pristine the day I visited.

Padre Island is a very young geological feature that developed 4,500 to 5,000 years ago, according to radio carbon dating of shells. As a result, its landscape changes constantly, especially when battered by hurricanes. 

South Padre Island, where I began my trip, used to connect to Padre Island, but now there is a channel. Although the tips can be less than 500 ft. apart, it takes three and a half hours to drive from one to the other.

Most of the island is less than 20 feet above mean sea level. 

Southeasterly winds from the Gulf of Mexico drift sand into high foredunes, which often smother the plants that try so hard to hold the landscape together. The beach is protected by the high foredunes. Still, storms erode beaches, rip up vegetation, flatten dunes and scour out channels. I didn't, however, see much evidence of Hurricane Harvey here.

The peaceful Laguna Madre separates Padre Island from the Texas mainland and is locked in by the barrier island. Consequently, the water doesn’t easily circulate in and out, making the lagoon exceptionally salty. The lagoon -- 10 miles wide at its widest point -- fluctuates considerably. It is widest during highest wind tides, which cause the tidal flats to flood. The northern part of the lagoon is occupied by grassflats with an average water depth of about 3 feet that serve as spawning grounds for fish, clams and snails. Of course, that attracts birds.

Willet, Lesser Yellowlegs and Greater Yellowlegs
Blue-Winged Teals
Laguna Madre is famous for paddle-boarding.

I had only the afternoon to explore. I got into the very nice Malaquite Pavilion just in time to stamp my National Park Passport. 

Nice facilities
The Pavilion includes the Visitor Center, restrooms, cold-water showers, two observation decks, an auditorium and some really nice boardwalks that slice through the dunes to get you to the actual beach. The restrooms and showers are open 24 hours per day, seven days a week except when being cleaned from 7:00 a.m. - 9:00 a.m. daily. That's a nice feature (although the day would have to be much hotter for me to take a cold shower).

Boardwalk to the beach
Pet-friendly restrooms and rinse-off showers are located at the northern end of the Pavilion parking area. The park has campgrounds but does not sell ice, firewood, gasoline or fishing licenses. So, make sure you have snacks, drinks and gasoline if you plan to visit. Oh, and bring along some insect repellent and sun block, too.

In the short time I was there, I took a nice walk along the beach ...

A nice day to walk
 Then I checked out the lagoon …

Brown Pelican
And, finally, I took a walk through the grasslands, trying to photograph Eastern Meadowlarks and being eaten alive by mosquitoes.

Away from the beach, in the tall sea grass ...

Sea grass
I saw lots of Eastern Meadowlarks, which seemed far more skittish than the Western Meadowlarks I am used to ...

Most stopped far away to sing their beautiful songs
It took quite a while to get near enough for a (semi-decent) close-up ...

Eastern Meadowlark
The small part of Padre located outside of the National Seashore boundaries is surprisingly sedate. I didn’t see many hotels or restaurants. It was difficult to envision Padre as a spring break location, especially compared to South Padre Island, which seems to have more services and more paved road access to the beach.

I had not originally planned to visit Padre Island (or, for that matter, Aransas NWR) on this trip, but I am so glad that I did.

As I was leaving the park, I saw another Crested Caracara – one of my main goals for the trip. I think he was wishing me a safe trip home.

Bonus!

Trip date: February 6-11, 2018

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