Africa: Panorama Route

Caty, Kristen, Kandice, Becca, Alexis, Linda, Janet at the Three Rondavels Overlook

The next morning, we left early for day-long drive along the Panorama Route to Kruger National Park. Finally, the part of the trip I was really looking forward to.

Our route

Soeki had coffee, tea and South African “rusks,” which are very popular with South Africans, waiting for us. To me, they tasted liked dried oatmeal that re-constituted in your mouth. Not my favorite; probably an acquired taste.

In the van; Photo: Becca Stevens

With Guillaume behind the wheel of our van, we set out. The van was spacious and comfortable enough, but it had rather small windows for a tour van. That, combined with out speed, made it hard to take pictures as we were traveling.

Our first stop was a grocery store where we bought food to picnic on and large bottles of water. From here on in, we would be using bottled water to drink and brush our teeth. Quite frankly, we had already been doing that, but it probably wasn’t necessary in Cape Town or Johannesburg. 

It’s always hard to tell where one should be cautious and where the water is OK. We were told that the water in Cape Town doesn’t have bacteria, but the mineral content can upset Western tummies. So far, we had all escaped intestinal distress, so why risk it?

Guillaume also instructed us to purchase a Kruger Park map and guide, which was a great tool and keepsake. The map wasn’t as critical as the animal checklist that included pictures of all the animals we might see in Kruger and Karongwe. Kristen nominated herself as the official scorekeeper. That, along with my Sasol app, helped me keep the animals and birds straight (and by the time we were finished, I had seen 122 bird species and 35 different animal species in Africa).

After driving through miles and miles of farms, primarily citrus and mango orchards, we turned off onto the famous Panorama Route.

Waterfall at Bourke's Luck Potholes

This scenic road in the Mpumalanga Province follows the Blyde River Canyon, the world's third largest canyon.

It features numerous waterfalls, one of the largest forested areas in South Africa and several natural landmarks. 

The route starts at the foot of the Long Tom Pass just outside Lydenburg, following the natural descent from the Great Escarpment to the Lowveld, and ending at the border of the Mpumalanga and Limpopo provinces.

The natural forests of Blyde Canyon were cleared years ago to supply wood for the mining industry, but commercial trees were planted in 1876, leading to the area being surrounded by one of the largest man-made forests in the world.

Three Rondavals

Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve is on the Drakensberg escarpment and protects the Blyde River Canyon, including sections of the Ohrigstad and Blyde Rivers and the geological formations around Bourke's Luck Potholes, where the Treur River meets the Blyde. Elevation here varies from 1,800 ft. to 6,400 ft. above sea level.

Three Rondavels

Our first scenic stop was an overlook for the Three Rondavels, three round grass-covered mountains that resemble traditional round or oval African homesteads called rondavels. Sometimes the mountains are also called the Three Sisters, commemorating a 19th century chief, Maripi, and three of his wives. The flat-topped peak adjacent to the Rondavels is Mapjaneng ("the chief"), who is remembered for opposing invading Swazis in a memorable battle. The three Rondavels are named for three of his wives -- Magabolle, Mogoladikwe and Maseroto.

Blyde River

According to tourist publications, the lookout point provides a spectacular view on a clear day. Unfortunately, we had an extremely hazy day – partially from fog and partially as a result of the ongoing drought. 

Cloud on the mountains

Still, the view was pretty, looking in some places somewhat like the Grand Canyon. 

Blyde River Canyon

I must say (because, apparently, I didn’t really do my research), I did not expect anything like this – or the steep mountain passes we drove through – in South Africa. It is amazing how our ideas of other places can be so wrong.

The Three Rondevals were created by slow erosion of underlying soft stone, leaving the more resistant quartzite and shale peaks exposed.

To see a video by Becca, click here.

Our group at the Three Rondavels Overlook

And, of course, while I was there, I had to chase down some birds, including …

A White-Backed Vulture soaring over the canyon

A Bar-Throated Apalis that would not come out of the bushes

Another Familiar Chat (we had seen some on Table Mountain)

Next, we were off to Bourke's Luck Potholes, a very popular tourist attraction in the area.

Potholes

Situated at the confluence of the Treur and Blyde Rivers, the area features several waterfalls and a number of cylindrical potholes or “giant's kettles” that can be viewed from the crags above. The potholes are created by "kolks." 

What?

Kilos are underwater vortexes that occur when rapidly rushing water passes an underwater obstacle and creates a violently rotating column of water, similar to a tornado. Kolks can carry multi-ton blocks of rock in suspension for thousands of feet. 

The potholes demonstrate the rotation …

Looking down

… and a number of large boulders in the river show the strength of the current ...

A beautiful ravine

Different soil levels give each hole a unique color, the river's edge is green with foliage and the river is a beautiful turquoise. 

Me in front of the waterfalls

We walked out across the craggy rocks to get a view of the waterfall -- and the get some pictures. 

There were lots of fissures in the rocks, so it was a little nerve-racking for me. I hate walking across uneven rocks, especially when I am carrying my big cameras. 

I will have to check and see if there is a single picture of me on this trip without a camera in my hand or slung over my shoulder -- probably not.

Mica (or is it gold?) in the river

The Potholes were named after a prospector, Tom Bourke, who predicted he would find gold there and staked a claim nearby. Despite the "luck" in the name of the area, he never found a single ounce of gold there. But, later, other prospectors did find rich gold deposits.

School kids on the bridge

While we were there, we encountered a very large group of local school kids on a field trip. I was struck by something I noticed across Africa. The children were dressed in uniforms – slacks, sweater vests and dress shirts for the boys; skirts, sweater vests and blouses for the girls. The female teachers were in dresses or skirts and blouses and the male teachers were also in dress slacks and shirts. Everyone was wearing dress shoes (and many of the women had low heels). I was being super careful as I walked across the rocks in my hiking shoes. I can’t imagine doing that in dress shoes!

Caty on the bridge

Pedestrian bridges connect the overlooks of the potholes and the gorge downstream.

To see a video by Becca, click here.

This isn't how I pictured Africa

As we were leaving Bourke’s Luck, I came across a very willing photo subject – an African Pied Wagtail …

A friendly bird

And, then a very fat Cape Skink …

Big guy

The Bourke's Luck Potholes area had the clearest skies of the day; most likely because we had gone down a bit in elevation.

Waterfall at Bourke's Luck Potholes

Our next stop was supposed to be God’s Window, where sheer cliffs plunge about 2,200 feet to the Lowveld, affording what is described as an “Eden-like view.” On a clear day, it is supposed to be possible to see over Kruger National Park towards the Lebombo Mountains on the border with Mozambique. Unfortunately, by the time we reached the escarpment, we were driving through pea-soup fog. We didn’t even pull into the parking lot.

Interestingly, the original God’s Window is a square-shaped rock set further back on a private farm that is not accessible. So, the overlook isn’t actually God’s Window.

So, then we drove through Hazyview, a town close to the Phabeni Gate to Kruger National Park. We were staying just to the south of there at the Nkambeni Tented Camp near the Numbi Gate. Hazyview is renowned for its various animal sanctuaries, including a world-famous elephant sanctuary. However, Guillaume told us that the sanctuaries seldom actually rehabilitate and release animals, keeping them rather as tourist attractions.

We arrived at Kruger National Park in the late afternoon. We were excited to be at Kruger -- but glad we had taken the slower route through the Panorama area. 

Janet, Becca and Caty

Trip date: August 25-September 9, 2017