The Hike Down -- and the Park

Having had an enjoyable two-day stay at the LeConte Lodge on top of Mt. LeConte in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, my brother, Mark Pedretty, and I prepared for our hike down.

The Lodge

I didn’t notice until we posed for a farewell shot in front of the Dining Hall that that they change the date on the sign everyday. 

That’s a really nice touch; Mark, left; me, right

Yikes!

We had taken the Alum Cave Bluff Trail (5.5 miles, 2,560-foot elevation gain) up and were now taking the Rainbow Falls Trail (6.5 miles, 3,820-foot elevation loss) down.

The trailhead had a sign warning that, during heavy rains, the trail could be impassable. Rain had originally been forecast for the day. But, we had nice weather – cool turning to warm; dry slowly getting a bit more humid. We did pass several spots that were easy to imagine as impassable, including a dry waterfall. And, there was a lot more water on this trail than on the Alum cave Bluffs Trail.

Rain and water are common in the Smokies: Photo: Mark Pedretty

As we went down, I was amazed at how much more spring-like the area had become since we hiked up. Buds were bursting, trees were flowering and the gray was going away. 

Two days makes a big difference in April

Knowing that a trail that steep can be tough on knees, we took it slow. We had a great time photographing  a variety of plants and flowers. You may be aware of Mark’s interest in photographing flowers, something he started when, as a mail carrier, he noticed that many people’s yards featured a wide variety of tiny (often wild) blooms. He snaps these photos with his cell phone and posts the remarkable shots on Facebook. 

Capturing some tiny plants

So, it wasn’t surprising that he was both interested in and knowledgeable about the flowers along the route ...

Mark can ID them all

Even the weird ones: Photo: Mark Pedretty

Besides flowers, we didn’t see much else – including people. I was really struck by how few folks we saw anywhere, but especially on the trails. Rainbow Falls, beyond its signature falls, which are on the lower part of the trail, isn’t one of the more popular up or down hikes to the Lodge. It was lovely and well maintained, if a bit rocky. So, it was a pleasant morning hike.

We had the almost trail to ourselves

As we went down, however the knees screamed and the packs tugged. So, we were very happy when we reached Rainbow Falls, which is only 2.7 miles from the trailhead. This 80-foot fall, the only one in GSMNP that you can walk behind, is a popular day-hike destination and it was here that we encountered people. 

Rainbow Falls

Mainly people who have no clue about hiking or hiking etiquette. There were, of course, many people climbing on the rocks up to the falls, ensuring a spot in all my photos (fortunately Photoshop banished them quickly from most of my shots). If only they would eschew neon colors!

Mark and I didn’t climb up to the falls for a couple of reasons. First, I am not a big fan of rock clambering, especially if the rocks are wet. Second, my knees really didn’t want to add activity to the hike. Third, I don’t like to ruin other peoples’ pictures. And, fourth, I like to look at falls, not be in them.

The falls

We also encountered a nicely dressed gentleman from the Midwest who said that he had hiked up with a “tripod instead of water” and that someone had given him a bottle of water. Who hikes without water? He also said that they day before, he had done a long hike and miscalculated how long it would take (“I’m from Indiana, we don’t have mountains to climb”), so he got back in the dark with only a headlamp with dicey batteries. That’s why my pack is full of emergency supplies and I always allow more time than it should take.

On my way down; Photo: Mark Pedretty

At the falls, we stopped for lunch (threatened briefly by a marauding squirrel). We took off our boots and briefly immersed our feet in the chilly, but not freezing, water ..

A nice break

... and generally enjoyed the play of sunlight on the water, the many mini-falls and the sound of flowing water.

So pretty

Not wanting to get too relaxed, we shouldered our packs and headed down. This last part was the most difficult – probably because our knees and feet were getting fatigued and because it had gotten warmer and stickier. 

Rocky

Smoky Mountain trails are tough because they contain lots of rocky obstacles. You have to be constantly on the lookout to prevent twisted ankles or falls.

As we hiked down, we encountered groups taking smoking breaks (ugh – we had to hike around), groups playing loud music (what about the sanctity of nature?), people wearing inappropriate shoes (Mom, you had on sneakers, why did you allow your daughter to wear sandals?) and kids tearing up the landscape by taking shortcuts. But, there were a number of small waterfalls and moments of beauty, too.

More falls

During the last mile and a half, we were pretty much over it. Then, we encountered a group of ladies who were on a wildflower hike that was part of a two-day wildflower event based in Gatlinburg. They had an ancient guide to flowers and helped us with some identification. In turn, Mark showed them a tiny Showy Orchid that was hiding under a lip of rock. 

Orchids

They were very excited about that. They told us the event featured 131 hikes, which, based on how far they went before they turned back, were probably all in the half-mile to mile range.

During our flower break I tried to squat down to photograph a flower only to discover my knees were so swollen that couldn’t bend them that much (typical; I knew it would go away within 48 hours). So, I figured we needed to end the madness, and we plugged on to the end of the trail, which was pretty close.

A note about something that surprised us – despite a pretty tough hike up and down and three days without a shower (just a little hot water washbasin clean-up), we ended the hike fairly fresh-feeling. I guess that’s the advantage of an early spring hike. The flower ladies took this shot near the end of the trail.

The Flower Ladies took our photo

I always look back and wonder why I didn’t photograph “documenting” shots – like the end of the trail, signs, etc. – for my blog. I am getting better, but I still forget. 

I feel like I am taking pictures all the time

After the Hike

Anyway, we drove to retrieve our car at the Alum Cave Bluff Trailhead and, would you believe it, saw a Bear on the way. 

A pretty one

Yes, three days in the wilderness and a Bear on the roadside! It never fails. 

This one created a real Bear jam!

Even with a Bear, Mark got distracted by flowers

After cleaning up back at the condo, we went out for a late dinner at Park Grill, where we had an excellent smoked trout appetizer and I had panko-crusted trout and Mark had a steak. We ended the meal with hot blackberry cobbler. Yummy.  Our server restored our faith in southern hospitality (pretty lacking at the Dunkin’ Donuts). He was great!

On the way back from dinner, we tested an alternate route to the condo and, finally, found the least scary, easiest way to get there. Only took three days of getting lost and driving up and down in first gear!

Then, we slept very well. 

We were awakened by our faithful Eastern Towhee

Mark had some time before he had to head back to Atlanta to catch his flight home, so we headed out the next morning. Of course, he had to start with his he-man breakfast. We found it at the Riverstone Restaurant in Townsend. 

Mark was very happy

Great Smoky Mountains

As we came back into the Smokies, we encountered one of my photography targets – a beautiful cardinal in a fresh spring tree. I wish we had cardinals in Colorado. 

They are so beautiful

Then, off the Cades Cove to attempt to find a good Bear. 

Jackpot!!!

It was actually the same Bear I had seen the first day, but this time it was hanging around the road and creating a Bear jam. 

The Bear started out in a field just looking around

The ranger had to clear a path among the watchers for the Bear to cross the road.

Here he comes

I had time to try out the 600mm lens on the tripod and was rewarded for the effort.

Shaking it off

How did I know it was the same Bear? Its ear was tagged with a red plastic strip. The Ranger told us that they don’t actually “tag” Bears in the Smokies, but they had marked this one the previous year because it was frequently around people and they were keeping an eye on it. Here’s what the strip looks like. 

Tagged

I used Photoshop to remove the tag from my good shots

We stayed for quite awhile, following the Bear as it chomped its way through the fresh spring growth.

Hungry Bear

I am certainly glad I bought the 600mm lens and schlepped it all the way to the Smokies (and, no, I did not carry it up the mountain).

The best one

Mark shot some video, as well. Click here and here.

A big bite (or yawn)

After photographing the Bear, we moved on to the rest of Cades Cove and then Mark headed out for Atlanta.

Thanks, Mark! It was great hiking with you

Before picking Caty up at the airport that evening, I drove back into the park, looking for more animals.

I quickly visited the Little Greenbrier School off of Wears Valley Road behind Metcalf Bottoms Picnic Area. It was down a very narrow, winding road that would have required one car to back up if it encountered another. Luckily, I didn’t. 

Built in 1882, the Little Greenbrier School functioned as the community school until 1936 and served part of the time as a house of worship for a Primitive Baptist church.

Little Greenbrier School

I didn’t see any more Bears, but I did photograph more flowers ...

Spring was further along down here

and critters …

European Honeybee

Carolina Chickadee and a Tufted Titmouse

White-tailed Deer

Coyote – the first I have ever seen in the Smokies

After the quick drive through, I headed to the airport to pick up Caty. This time, I drove through Townsend rather than Pigeon Forge. It was sooooo much better, even at rush hour. We had a late dinner at the Cherokee Grill, another nice restaurant in Gatlinburg, and then headed back up to the condo (using the new route).

As we left the restaurant, it started to rain – foreshadowing for our next day.

Trip date: April 18-26, 2016