Florida - Throwback Tourist Activities

Fun, fun, fun

While we were in Florida this past May, we indulged in two very touristy activities -- something we don't normally do. 

Weeki Wachee Springs

First, we visited Weeki Wachee Springs, a real throwback to our respective childhoods (Scott and I both moved to Florida in 1959 and it was the place to go).

Located about an hour north of Clearwater on U.S. Highway 19, Weeki Wachee is both a natural wonder and a slice of old-time Florida Tourism. 

The natural part is the spring, which is the deepest in the United States, at more than 400 feet down. Each day, more than 117 million gallons of clear fresh 74-degree water bubbles up out of subterranean caverns. 

Absolutely, no-kidding, incredibly clear

The basin of the spring is 100 feet wide with limestone sides. At 20 feet below the surface, the current runs a strong five miles an hour. The Seminoles named the spring "Weeki Wachee," which means "little spring" or "winding river."  The river winds 12 miles to the Gulf of Mexico.

The touristy part is the mermaid show. 

Pure Florida through and through

In 1946, U.S. 19 was a small two-lane road. All the other roads were dirt and the area had more alligators and black bears than humans. But, with the growth in popularity of automobiles, more and more tourists were heading to Florida. Newton Perry, an avid swimmer and dive instructor, wanted to cash in.

Perry found the spring full of old rusted refrigerators and abandoned cars, which he cleared out. Looking for a gimmick, he invented an underwater breathing  method that used a compressor to supply oxygen through a hose rather than from a tank. 

The old days; Photo: Weeki Wachee

Perry then built an 18-seat theater into the limestone six feet below the surface that looked right into the ancient spring. He hired and trained pretty girls to swim with air hoses and smile at the same time. He taught them to drink and eat bananas underwater and do aquatic ballets. 

The old days; Photo: Weeki Wachee

The first "mermaid" show at the Weeki Wachee Springs underwater theater opened in October 1947. 

The old days; Photo: Weeki Wachee

In the 1950s, Weeki Wachee was one of the nation's most popular tourist stops. The park's heyday began in 1959, when the spring was purchased by the American Broadcasting Co. (ABC) and was heavily promoted. ABC built the current theater, which seats 500 and is embedded in the side of the spring 16 feet below the surface. 

Today

In the 1960s, as many as half a million people a year came to see the Weeki Wachee mermaids. They even incorporated the area as a town, so that it would appear on maps. The park employed 35 mermaids and did eight sold-old shows a day.

That's the roof of the theater behind Scott and Betty

Over the years, more attractions have been added: a boat tour of the river ...

The tour; Photo: Weeki Wachee

Buccaneer Bay with water slides and a white sand beach ...

That's it behind Betty and me

Animal shows (which we missed on our visit) ...

Becca participating in a Weeki Wachee bird show in 1996

And, designation as a Florida State Park ...

Now a State Park

We were pleased to find that the mermaid show is still simple and nostalgic, without a lot of props and gimmicks.

A bit cheesy, but ...

The theater is a little worse for wear (after all, it stays damp all the time), but it does the job. The mermaids are relatively wholesome (as wholesome as you can be in a spangled bathing suit top and mermaid fins) and the show is blissfully short. It is perfect for small kids and adults who want to harken back to a quainter time. Plus, the admission price is relatively low by Florida attraction standards ($13 per person, inclusive; children under five are free).

Mermaid close-up

We also took the boat ride, which was an extremely pleasant and surprisingly cool (compared to the 90 degree heat) cruise down a very short stretch of river.

The springs

According to our captain (a 70-something New England transplant with plenty of corny jokes and a very pleasing manner), the river becomes too shallow to navigate not too far from the dock. So, it's a short "there and back again" trip. 

We had to be content with views of the Snook swimming near the surface ...

... and a Tri-Colored Heron catching a fish as we cruised by

The Park also has small kayaks and boats you can check out at no extra charge. I think that would have been fun. The river is so gorgeous, I could spend hours just looking at or floating on it. The grounds are lovely, with Butterflies ... 

Monarch Butterfly

... and Peafowl ...

A male and a white morph male

... and a really great old-time vibe.

Kind of a blast, actually

Captain Memo's Pirate Ship

Our second touristy adventure was Captain Memo's Original Pirate Cruise, which has been plying the waters of Clearwater Beach since 1993. Scott and I had never done it.

Avast!; Photo: Captain Memo's Pirate Cruise

The trip is on a brightly colored pirate ship, perhaps more interesting to spectators than passengers. One of my issues was that the seating (especially on the main deck, where folks who can't climb narrow stairs must stay) faces away from the view and is behind rather high sides. So, to look out or take pictures, you must stand and lean forward -- or climb upstairs (which I did). 

Unfortunately, we were plagued by cigarette smoke throughout the entire trip -- first as we waited to board (they made us arrive way too early, resulting in lots of "waiting to board" time in the very hot sun with no seating and lots of smokers) and then when a woman onboard kept lighting up on the forward upper deck, which is not a designated smoking area. We finally complained and they asked he not to smoke there. Smoking is allowed on the upper back deck, but I guess that area didn't suit her.

Colorful

Not as reasonably priced as Weeki Wachee (it's about $33-36 per person including limited drinks), it's a trip around the pass and the beach that seems to be geared a bit more to children or to partiers on the top deck than to folks wanting a scenic cruise. We had lots of families, lots of young people and a bachelorette party (dressed in skimpy pirate attire) on board. 

Scott and Betty

The views are lovely ...

Some nice homes and yachts

... and it is possible to see Dolphins (we saw three very far off) ...

And Sharks (?)

The crew, exuberant young men dressed as pirates, we surprisingly patient and engaged with all the children onboard, coordinating musical chairs, guessing games, treasure hunts and water pistol fights (be forewarned, you may get wet if you stay on the main deck). It was fun to watch the interaction and to see tattooed, bearded "savages" be so gentle with the little ones.

A kindly pirate

We took the sunset cruise, so we got to see the changing seascape ...  

Reflection

... as the sun sank below the horizon ...

Such a lovely sunset

... and the evening lights came up ...

Running lights

It was fun. I probably wouldn't do it again unless I had some kiddos in tow, but it is a "thing," and now I have done it.

Jolly Roger

A Bad Dinner Experience

Following the pirate cruise, we met my brother and some friends for dinner at Bob Heilman's Beachcomber, a Clearwater Beach institution. I have eaten there before and had a reasonably good experience, but this evening was a disaster. 

I had made reservations for five people. When my brother agreed to join us, I called back and upped it to six. The person I talked to thanked me profusely for updating the count. 

So, I was quite surprised when we arrived and they still had us down for five! Then, we had to wait at least 15 minutes to be seated (tell me again why we had reservations?). 

We were squeezed into a too-small table and given two menus to share among us (seriously, we couldn't get any more menus!) and our table was in a back room in the middle of a very loud octogenarian birthday party. Even though I read my order exactly as it was written ("chilled shrimp plate") on the menu that I had temporary custody of at that moment, something in the waiter's expression lead me to believe he didn't get it right. He didn't. And, when I told him that my order was wrong, he argued with me. 

 I ordered left; I got right (not the same)

Most everyone liked their food; I made do with the shrimp salad I was given because it was late and I was starving.

When we said we would consider dessert, they brought one menu! One! We didn't have dessert.

I doubt that I will return.

Trip date: April 18-26, 2016