Florida - Honeymoon Island

After my successful trip to Clearwater Beach, I was looking forward to seeing what I could find at Honeymoon Island. This is another gorgeous beach that has a lot of advantages over Clearwater Beach (and a few disadvantages). 

Laughing Gull

The water is the same warm, clear, gorgeousness. The sand is also soft and white, but most of the beach is very, very shallow -- just a thin strip between the parking lot and the water. 

Lovely water

Honeymoon Island is north of Clearwater and is a state park, so there is no lodging and just a small amount of services -- a couple of snack bars and some umbrella rentals. As a result, it feels much wilder and more natural. 

I actually prefer it as a "drive-to" beach. But, Clearwater is better if you can actually stay on the beach. An advantage of being a state park is that you pay an entrance fee and can then move your car from parking space to parking space as you want to. At Clearwater, you have to feed the meter to park (unless you have parking at a hotel like we did at the Palm Pavilion).

So, I did a little exploration along the beach, practicing my "birds in flight" skills. I am sure everyone on the beach thought I was crazy as I aimed at one Laughing Gull after another.

Still laughing

But, then, I decided to take a little a hike along the Osprey Trail, which is very aptly named. I saw so many Ospreys. I took a few steps on the trail and saw my first one sitting in a tree. As I was photographing it, I was bitten by a mosquito, so I went back to my car and completely sprayed myself with insect repellent. And, it seemed to work, so I headed out again.

Osprey

Almost immediately, I saw another photographer with a tripod and I shifted my gaze in the direction his camera was pointing. Jackpot! There was a nest with an adult and three almost-full-grown chicks. 

Youngsters have orange eyes; adults have yellow

The adult was feeding the very vocal chicks and they were offering one great photo opportunity after another.

Dinner!

Also called Fish Eagle, Sea Hawk, River Hawk and Fish Hawk, the Osprey is a diurnal, fish-eating bird of prey with a varied range. It tolerates a wide variety of habitats, nesting in any location near a body of water providing an adequate food supply. It is found on all continents except Antarctica, although in South America it occurs only as a non-breeding migrant.

Such a treat to observe

The Osprey's diet consists almost exclusively of fish, which it catches with its talons and carries to the nest (almost always facing forward in its grip, making flight more aerodynamic).

I was captivated

The Osprey has several adaptations make fishing easier: reversible outer toes that help grab and carry the fish; sharp spicules on the underside of the toes for a strong grip; closable nostrils to keep out water during dives; backwards-facing scales on the talons which act as barbs to help hold its catch; and dense oily plumage that prevents its feathers from getting waterlogged.

As I moved on from the feeding frenzy in the Osprey nest, I noticed a beautiful Snowy Egret perched in a tree on the other side of the trail. 

So gorgeous

It was a nice habitat counterpoint to the Snowy Egret I had observed on the beach earlier in the day.

Posing

The air was absolutely alive with the high-pitched cries of Osprey -- they were everywhere. One was perched in a tree, minding its own business when it was attacked repeatedly by a Mockingbird ...

Under attack

... you can see it in the right side of the photo below. This is behavior I see often between small birds and birds of prey. Most likely, the Mockingbird had a next nearby or had had experience with Ospreys attacking its nest or its young.

Quick get-away

Although at first, the Osprey seemed undisturbed by the attacks, it eventually got a bit ruffled, so to speak.

Aggravated

Shortly after watching that Osprey, I decided to head back because I was supposed to pick up Scott in a little while. I shot my last Osprey, took a turn to the return loop and was immediately mobbed by mosquitoes. I could not get back to the car fast enough! I must have had over 100 bites.  I wish I knew of a foolproof way to ward off biting bugs. Every time I go to Florida, I come back looking like a Plague victim.

He was watching

Safely back in the car, I noticed a Cattle Egret walking across the lawn. Originally native to parts of Asia, Africa and Europe, it has successfully colonized much of the rest of the world. Their name comes from their tendency to accompany cattle or other large mammals, catching insects and small vertebrate prey disturbed by these animals. The Cattle Egret removes ticks and flies from cattle and consumes them. This benefits both species, but it has been implicated in the spread of tick-borne animal diseases.

This one has lots of rusty feathers

Since it was hot and buggy by the Osprey Trail, I headed back toward the beach, passing a Gopher Tortoise on the way. Native to the southeastern U.S., the Gopher Tortoise is seen as a keystone species because it digs burrows that provide shelter for at least 360 known other animal species. They are threatened by predation and habitat destruction.

Gopher Tortoise

These are land creatures; in fact, they have been known to drown because they do not swim well. Plant-eaters, they usually get water from the food they eat, only drinking standing water in times of extreme drought. Except during breeding season, they are solitary animals, inhabiting a small home range. The gopher tortoise reaches maturity at about 10-15 years and live to be 40-75 years old.

Reddish Heron fly-by

Then, I went back to the -- blissfully much, much breezier -- beach. 

I immediately saw another Reddish Egret. This one was an adult that was flying very low down the length of the beach. 

It's so funny that once you have learned about a bird that you never knew about before, you invariably start seeing them everywhere. I was excited to see this one because it was fun to watch its flight along the water line.

If you are looking for a natural. less touristy beach without many frills but a great deal of serenity and wildlife, I heartily recommend Honeymoon Island. Locals know how nice it is and often prefer it over Clearwater Beach.

Beautiful!

On my back to Betty's, I made a brief stop at Hammock Park in Dunedin. It's a small park with a boardwalk, picnic areas and a butterfly garden where I successfully photographed a Carpenter Bee, but couldn't  capture any of the several species of Butterflies.

Carpenter Bee

And, just as storm clouds started to roll in, I saw a couple of White Ibises feeding in the grass. These blue-eyed creatures often travel and feed in groups (in fact, I saw about 20 on the lawn of Betty's apartment). A few pictures and then rain sent me home.

White Ibis

It was a successful day and a fun trip home.

Trip date: April 18-26, 2016

Florida -- Clearwater Beach

Part of our trip to Florida was two nights on Clearwater Beach at the Palm Pavilion Inn. While not the most luxurious hotel on the beach, it does have a superb location and it's more reasonable than anywhere else.

I grew up in Clearwater, so I often forget what a spectacular beach Clearwater Beach is ... that is, until I go to another highly touted beach and find it to be lacking.

Clearwater Beach is consistently rated among the best beaches in the world. And, it's no surprise: a deep expanse of pure white, soft sand; clear, relatively warm Gulf water; gentle waves; long, shallow wading areas. 

An ideal beach for sunbathing and for children

It's not an adventure beach or a snorkeling beach, but it seems to have enough fish to attract early morning anglers -- and lots of sea birds.

Sanderlings

I spent my first day at the beach walking, wading, sitting under my rented umbrella and reading. It was like heaven. Except, I was once again plagued by cigarette (and cigar) smoke -- on the beach!! The man two umbrellas down chain smoked all day long and the guy in front of me was smoking cigars. The prevailing wind just kept piling it on me. Of course, I couldn't move because I was tied to that umbrella. It's really sad to have nature ruined by insensitive people. I think smoking should not be allowed anywhere in public.

You can rent these

Still, it was a beautiful and relaxing day, as long as I didn't breathe deeply. The next morning, we got up early so I could drive Scott to a friend's house to go fishing. When I came back, I took my camera down to the beach and discovered that the bird life is far richer than I ever realized.

The best subject of the day was a gorgeous Reddish Egret that put on quite a show as it fished along the surf line. This was the first one I have ever seen standing still; I saw one fly by briefly last year in the Everglades.

Dancing Reddish Egret

This bird had all the moves ... running, flapping, jumping, diving ... I spent quite a bit of time shooting pictures and found it very difficult to choose my favorites because I liked so many.

Quite a show

A resident breeder in Central America, the Bahamas, the Caribbean, the U.S. Gulf Coast and Mexico, this bird was previously a victim of the plume trade. Classified as "threatened," there are only 1,500 to 2,000 nesting pairs of Reddish Egrets in the United States, most in Texas.

I never saw these when I was young

The sexes are similar, but there are two color morphs. The adult dark morph has a slate blue body and reddish head and neck with shaggy plumes. The adult white morph has completely white body plumage. Young birds have a brown body, head, and neck, so the one I saw on Clearwater Beach was relatively young. During mating, the males plumage stands out in a ruff on its head, neck and back (hence the Fabbio vibe).

He looks mah-ve-lous

According to Wikipedia: "The Reddish Egret is considered one of the most active herons and is often seen on the move. It stalks its prey visually in shallow water far more actively than other herons and egrets, frequently running energetically and using the shadow of its wings to reduce glare on the water once it is in position to spear a fish; the result is a fascinating dance. Due to its bold, rapacious yet graceful feeding behavior, author Pete Dunne nicknamed the reddish egret 'the Tyrannosaurus Rex of the Flats.'" Indeed!

Another treat very nearby was a pair of Double-Crested Cormorants, swimming and fishing in the shallow surf. These birds, which are found all over the U.S., have shockingly gorgeous turquoise eyes that contrast beautifully with their orange beaks.

So beautiful

As the Reddish Egret and the Cormorants fished, they got closer and closer together. The Egret was apparently not too pleased with the Cormorant, further expanding its dance moves. 

A little kerfuffle

And, then, it fluffed its feathers, clearly showing why it was prized for its plumage. I am so surprised that I never saw (or noticed) one before.

A very cool bird

Although I spent most of my time photographing the Reddish Egret, I also got some photos of a Willet, which is a very graceful sandpiper ...

Willet

... and a number of cute little Sanderlings, which love to scoot up and down the beach.

Such cuties

Of course, one of the real beauties of the beach is the Snowy Egret, this one decked out in breeding plumage. Like the Reddish Egret, it was fishing in the surf. Not as demonstrative, but certainly elegant, even soaking wet.

The yellow feet with black legs are an identifier

Also once threatened by the millinery trade, the Snowy Egret has protected status. They live in most of South America and Central America, along the Atlantic coast north to Virginia Beach, along the Gulf Coast, and along the Pacific lowlands from central California southward. 

Taking off

Snowy Egrets stalk prey in shallow water, often running or shuffling their feet, flushing prey into view, as well "dip-fishing" by flying with their feet just over the water. Snowy egrets may also stand still and wait to ambush prey.

Every time I go to the beach, I see Brown Pelicans. But, this time, I had the fortune of photographing an entire flock in flight. 

I just love my new lens!

And, no beach is complete without gulls. The Laughing Gull, easy to spot because of its distinctive black head, is the most common on Clearwater Beach.

Laughing Gull

Just as I was getting ready to pack up my gear, I noticed a small disturbance in the water. Dolphins! Atlantic Bottlenose Dolphins to be precise. Often seen swimming north in the morning, these beautiful beasts cruise the shoreline, corralling and eating small fish. 

Dolphin show!

They came very, very close to the shore -- at times within ten feet. At times, they created quite a commotion as they fished -- and unintentionally shared their catch with Gulls.

Feeding

The most amazing thing about the photos that I took at Clearwater beach is that I got these -- and many, many more -- in just about two and half hours. All those years as I was going to the beach when I lived in Clearwater, I never really realized how wildlife-rich the area was. 

What a treat!

But, I felt that I had used up all of Clearwater Beach's charms, so I moved up a little further north to see what else I could find.

Trip date: April 18-26, 2016

Florida - Throwback Tourist Activities

Fun, fun, fun

While we were in Florida this past May, we indulged in two very touristy activities -- something we don't normally do. 

Weeki Wachee Springs

First, we visited Weeki Wachee Springs, a real throwback to our respective childhoods (Scott and I both moved to Florida in 1959 and it was the place to go).

Located about an hour north of Clearwater on U.S. Highway 19, Weeki Wachee is both a natural wonder and a slice of old-time Florida Tourism. 

The natural part is the spring, which is the deepest in the United States, at more than 400 feet down. Each day, more than 117 million gallons of clear fresh 74-degree water bubbles up out of subterranean caverns. 

Absolutely, no-kidding, incredibly clear

The basin of the spring is 100 feet wide with limestone sides. At 20 feet below the surface, the current runs a strong five miles an hour. The Seminoles named the spring "Weeki Wachee," which means "little spring" or "winding river."  The river winds 12 miles to the Gulf of Mexico.

The touristy part is the mermaid show. 

Pure Florida through and through

In 1946, U.S. 19 was a small two-lane road. All the other roads were dirt and the area had more alligators and black bears than humans. But, with the growth in popularity of automobiles, more and more tourists were heading to Florida. Newton Perry, an avid swimmer and dive instructor, wanted to cash in.

Perry found the spring full of old rusted refrigerators and abandoned cars, which he cleared out. Looking for a gimmick, he invented an underwater breathing  method that used a compressor to supply oxygen through a hose rather than from a tank. 

The old days; Photo: Weeki Wachee

Perry then built an 18-seat theater into the limestone six feet below the surface that looked right into the ancient spring. He hired and trained pretty girls to swim with air hoses and smile at the same time. He taught them to drink and eat bananas underwater and do aquatic ballets. 

The old days; Photo: Weeki Wachee

The first "mermaid" show at the Weeki Wachee Springs underwater theater opened in October 1947. 

The old days; Photo: Weeki Wachee

In the 1950s, Weeki Wachee was one of the nation's most popular tourist stops. The park's heyday began in 1959, when the spring was purchased by the American Broadcasting Co. (ABC) and was heavily promoted. ABC built the current theater, which seats 500 and is embedded in the side of the spring 16 feet below the surface. 

Today

In the 1960s, as many as half a million people a year came to see the Weeki Wachee mermaids. They even incorporated the area as a town, so that it would appear on maps. The park employed 35 mermaids and did eight sold-old shows a day.

That's the roof of the theater behind Scott and Betty

Over the years, more attractions have been added: a boat tour of the river ...

The tour; Photo: Weeki Wachee

Buccaneer Bay with water slides and a white sand beach ...

That's it behind Betty and me

Animal shows (which we missed on our visit) ...

Becca participating in a Weeki Wachee bird show in 1996

And, designation as a Florida State Park ...

Now a State Park

We were pleased to find that the mermaid show is still simple and nostalgic, without a lot of props and gimmicks.

A bit cheesy, but ...

The theater is a little worse for wear (after all, it stays damp all the time), but it does the job. The mermaids are relatively wholesome (as wholesome as you can be in a spangled bathing suit top and mermaid fins) and the show is blissfully short. It is perfect for small kids and adults who want to harken back to a quainter time. Plus, the admission price is relatively low by Florida attraction standards ($13 per person, inclusive; children under five are free).

Mermaid close-up

We also took the boat ride, which was an extremely pleasant and surprisingly cool (compared to the 90 degree heat) cruise down a very short stretch of river.

The springs

According to our captain (a 70-something New England transplant with plenty of corny jokes and a very pleasing manner), the river becomes too shallow to navigate not too far from the dock. So, it's a short "there and back again" trip. 

We had to be content with views of the Snook swimming near the surface ...

... and a Tri-Colored Heron catching a fish as we cruised by

The Park also has small kayaks and boats you can check out at no extra charge. I think that would have been fun. The river is so gorgeous, I could spend hours just looking at or floating on it. The grounds are lovely, with Butterflies ... 

Monarch Butterfly

... and Peafowl ...

A male and a white morph male

... and a really great old-time vibe.

Kind of a blast, actually

Captain Memo's Pirate Ship

Our second touristy adventure was Captain Memo's Original Pirate Cruise, which has been plying the waters of Clearwater Beach since 1993. Scott and I had never done it.

Avast!; Photo: Captain Memo's Pirate Cruise

The trip is on a brightly colored pirate ship, perhaps more interesting to spectators than passengers. One of my issues was that the seating (especially on the main deck, where folks who can't climb narrow stairs must stay) faces away from the view and is behind rather high sides. So, to look out or take pictures, you must stand and lean forward -- or climb upstairs (which I did). 

Unfortunately, we were plagued by cigarette smoke throughout the entire trip -- first as we waited to board (they made us arrive way too early, resulting in lots of "waiting to board" time in the very hot sun with no seating and lots of smokers) and then when a woman onboard kept lighting up on the forward upper deck, which is not a designated smoking area. We finally complained and they asked he not to smoke there. Smoking is allowed on the upper back deck, but I guess that area didn't suit her.

Colorful

Not as reasonably priced as Weeki Wachee (it's about $33-36 per person including limited drinks), it's a trip around the pass and the beach that seems to be geared a bit more to children or to partiers on the top deck than to folks wanting a scenic cruise. We had lots of families, lots of young people and a bachelorette party (dressed in skimpy pirate attire) on board. 

Scott and Betty

The views are lovely ...

Some nice homes and yachts

... and it is possible to see Dolphins (we saw three very far off) ...

And Sharks (?)

The crew, exuberant young men dressed as pirates, we surprisingly patient and engaged with all the children onboard, coordinating musical chairs, guessing games, treasure hunts and water pistol fights (be forewarned, you may get wet if you stay on the main deck). It was fun to watch the interaction and to see tattooed, bearded "savages" be so gentle with the little ones.

A kindly pirate

We took the sunset cruise, so we got to see the changing seascape ...  

Reflection

... as the sun sank below the horizon ...

Such a lovely sunset

... and the evening lights came up ...

Running lights

It was fun. I probably wouldn't do it again unless I had some kiddos in tow, but it is a "thing," and now I have done it.

Jolly Roger

A Bad Dinner Experience

Following the pirate cruise, we met my brother and some friends for dinner at Bob Heilman's Beachcomber, a Clearwater Beach institution. I have eaten there before and had a reasonably good experience, but this evening was a disaster. 

I had made reservations for five people. When my brother agreed to join us, I called back and upped it to six. The person I talked to thanked me profusely for updating the count. 

So, I was quite surprised when we arrived and they still had us down for five! Then, we had to wait at least 15 minutes to be seated (tell me again why we had reservations?). 

We were squeezed into a too-small table and given two menus to share among us (seriously, we couldn't get any more menus!) and our table was in a back room in the middle of a very loud octogenarian birthday party. Even though I read my order exactly as it was written ("chilled shrimp plate") on the menu that I had temporary custody of at that moment, something in the waiter's expression lead me to believe he didn't get it right. He didn't. And, when I told him that my order was wrong, he argued with me. 

 I ordered left; I got right (not the same)

Most everyone liked their food; I made do with the shrimp salad I was given because it was late and I was starving.

When we said we would consider dessert, they brought one menu! One! We didn't have dessert.

I doubt that I will return.

Trip date: April 18-26, 2016