Friday, October 2, 2015

September in Alaska #9 -- On the Way to the Silver Salmon Creek Lodge

Now, for the best – and most unexpected – part of our trip. When Scott originally planned this trip, we were going to go to Copper River so he could fish. But, then he found out it was too late in the season to fish there. So, we rejiggered the trip and started looking for a place where he could halibut fish. Unfortunately, most fishing lodges were closing around Sept. 15 and we were going to need to do this part of the trip Sept. 18-20. After striking out a number of times, I found the Silver Salmon Creek Lodge in Lake Clark National Park online. 

A common sight at the lodge
It was described thusly:

Majestic, wild and untouched, Lake Clark National Park is located southwest of Anchorage approximately one hour by small plane. Roughly twice the size of Yellowstone, Lake Clark National Park embodies four million acres of pristine wilderness boasting glaciers, volcanoes, alpine spires, tundra, wild rivers, lakes and 80 miles of rugged coastline along Cook Inlet. The Park, established in 1980 is accessible only by small plane or boat and is home to countless seabirds, dense forests, brown and black bear, moose, herds of caribou, and many other species of wildlife. Silver Salmon Creek Lodge is located along the rich coastal section of this spectacular park.

Brown Bear crossing Silver Salmon Creek where it empties into the ocean
With 40 acres of private land within Lake Clark National Park and an experienced, professional staff, Silver Salmon Creek Lodge enjoys a 50 percent return guest rate. Hosts David and Joanne (Coray) invite their guests to enjoy the informal and casual atmosphere and renowned food service while partaking in adventure-based outdoor activities unequaled in diversity and personalization.

That's the Lodge in the background
We had been to Lake Clark before, but more on the inland portion when we stayed (twice) at the marvelous Farm Lodge on Lake Clark in Port Alsworth. 

The Farm Lodge is inland on Lake Clark
Plus, we have also stayed at the Katmai Wilderness Lodge, which is about 60 miles further south than the SSCL on the coast in Katmai National Park.

Katmai Wilderness Lodge
The website indicated that SSCL closes in September, but didn’t give a specific date. So, I emailed the owner, who first responded that they were closing Sept. 17. I responded with thanks, but no thanks because my dates weren’t flexible. To my surprise, he came back and said that he could do the later dates. So we were in. He also told me that it was late for halibut fishing, but that the salmon would still be running, so Scott would be able to fish.

The morning in Soldotna started beautifully and we were glad to finally see sunny skies. 

Soldotna as we depart
We were a little surprised when the airline, Natron Air, said they were watching some iffy weather on the other side of the inlet, but we would probably be OK.

Heading out over Cook Inlet
We were.

I love small planes!
The flight over was fabulous (complete with a Fleetwood Mac soundtrack). We managed to carry 20 lbs. over the 50 lb. per passenger limit (cameras!) because the only other passengers were eggs, bread and other foodstuffs for the Silver Salmon Creek Lodge (SSCL from now on).

We flew from Soldotna, but you can also go from Anchorage
We took off over a gloriously sunny Soldotna and dodged in and out of sun, rain and snow as we headed the 50+ miles across the inlet to the lodge. 

The weather wasn't as good on the other side of the inlet
Despite the clouds, it was an incredibly smooth flight and the vistas were magnificent. Mountains ...

This is dramatic scenery
... bays ... 

Very dramatic scenery
... snow-capped peaks ... 

The clouds were a bit concerning
... waterfalls ...

Falls as we came in for a landing
... islands ...

I wish we could have flown more, but there were Bears to see!
Some of the most beautiful landscape you’ll ever see.

Alaska is amazing
As we descended for a landing, we saw a positive sign: a brown bear in the stream. This was gonna be good.

Yeeesssss!!!!
The landing was a bit of a surprise: we landed on the gravel beach, which is only about 40-50 yds. wide where we set down.

The pilot didn't warn us that there was no landing strip
We were met by Dave, was our guide for the that day and the next. We then found out that we were the ONLY guests. Thanks, SSCL, for staying open for us!

Left to right: the owner's son, Oliver, Dave and another guide, Corey
Dave dropped us at the Halibut Hut, a cute cabin that faces the beach.

Home! Cozy, cute and convenient to the Lodge
Then, we suited up in rain gear (it wasn’t raining, but there were threatening skies) and we headed out for bear viewing. Read about that next time.

Lots to come
Here's our trip over in the plane:



Trip date: September 10-21, 2015

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