Yosemite - Big Views, Big Smoke

Half Dome at sunset

Smoke and haze

Early the next morning, we headed into Yosemite. 

It's been years and years since Caty has been there, months since I have. We started at tunnel view – still very smoky from nearby forest fires. In fact, we didn't even take any pictures.

Then, we went into the valley. Because it was mid-summer, it was crazy crowded. The views, while impressive, are too smoky for any decent pictures. We went to the Visitors Center and the Ansel Adams gallery, then bought salads for a picnic. 

We planned to walk to Yosemite Falls, but it was empty. NO water. Yosemite is in a terrible drought – 60 percent less rain than last year. We knew the falls got thin late in the summer, but this was crazy!

A Steller's Jay

We decided to drive the Toulomne Road, which was lovely and a bit more crowded than I have ever seen it. We had our picnic at Tenaya Lake. Although the day was warm and sunny, the picnic tables on the lake were a bit breezy and cool. Plus, our salads kept blowing back at us! 

We tried to picnic on the beach

We saw some other lovely lakes as well.

You can see the toll the wind takes on the trees

Mono Lake

As we continued down the road, we decided, what the heck, we were almost there, so we headed out to Mono Lake. It's outside the Park – it is its own park – and quite unusual. 

Mono Lake

Mono Lake a large, shallow saline soda lake formed at least 760,000 years ago as a terminal lake in a basin that has no outlet to the ocean. It has high levels of salts and is very alkaline, which provides a good environment for brine shrimp. It is a habitat for two million annual migratory birds that feed on the shrimp.

Tufa in the foreground

When the city of Los Angeles diverted water from flowing into the lake, it lowered the lake level, which imperiled the migratory birds. The Mono Lake Committee formed in response, winning a legal battle that forced Los Angeles to partially restore the lake level. Now, it is being further restored and will return to its original levels in about 50 years. The lake produces sand-castle-like alkaline formations called tufa. Very interesting.

Back to Yosemite

After Mono Lake, we headed back, stopping at White Wolf campground for a snack from the store (turned out not much was there) and a visit to Bridal Veil Falls. At the Falls, it didn't appear there was any water either, so we decided to move on.

They were warned

In the parking lot, we witnessed the absolute worst tourist behavior possible. 

There was a female Deer in the parking lot that approached some people. We assume she had been fed. Instead of backing away, they pretended to have food to make her follow and once even tried to pet her. We thought for sure we were going to see a deer attack. Don't laugh, they can be very dangerous. We did see her try to kick a woman, but we left before it got ugly. Very disturbing.

Then we made a quick stop at tunnel view. Better than the night before, but still smoky.

A halfway decent photo

We could see that Bridal Veil Falls did have water (a little) in it.

As dry as I have ever seen it

Then, a quick trip to Glacier Point for sunset. We had to hurry, but we made it on time – even with a stop for a coyote sighting. 

Yosemite Coyotes have aqua eyes

It was still smoky, but a spectacular view of Half Dome. You can't see El Capitan from there. 

Dramatic

I was shocked at how thin both Vernal and Nevada Falls were.

You can see several falls

After the sun set, we were hungry and knew we had a long drive to the Wawona, where we were staying. 

Sunset

We checked our Yosemite newsletter and it appeared our only hope for finding something open for dinner was to go back to the valley and get pizza. By the time we got there, it was dark, dark, dark and there was no parking. So, we decided that Caty would get a pizza while I circled. Right after she left, the very first – very first – parking space opened up. So I caught up with her and we ate at the Pizza Deck. It was delicious. 

It's good pizza; Photo: Tripadvisor

The crowd was a bit odd. There was apparently a big costume party going on. We think it was Yosemite employees.

Then, we drove on to Wawona, getting in around 11.

A full day! 

Two portraits

Plan Change

The next morning, we made a big change in plans. With all the smokiness in Yosemite, we grew concerned about the rest of our trip. 

Photo: Oregon Smoke Information

Caty checked the Internet at a rare time when we had service and learned that there were fires in the Crater Lake area, ou next planned stop. There were reports that the air quality was "hazardous" and that evacuations were likely. 

So, we decided not to proceed north. We canceled hotels in northern California and Crater Lake and decided to head to the coast to visit Point Reyes National Seashore, Muir Woods, San Francisco and Monterey.  

Our next destinations

Hetch Hetchy

Reservations finally made, we decided to explore Hetch Hetchy, "the other Yosemite." So, we drove north through both private land and the Park, passing some camps and lodges along the way.

An old-school mountain camp

This area is historically significant, uncrowded and gorgeous. The valley is very similar to Yosemite, with a cliff that resembles El Capitan. 

Pretty and oddly smoke-free

Back in the late 1880s, the city of San Francisco needed more water and made a move to dam the valley to create a reservoir for the city. Many - including John Muir – opposed the plan. But, back in those days progress trumped preservation and the dam went up – being completed in 1923. The reservoir still serves San Francisco. 

The water that leaves the dam is sent via pipe to the city, using only gravity – no pumps. Further down the route, it is also used to generate power.

Water leaving being released back into the river

Later, moves were made to do the same thing to Yosemite, which led to it being accorded National Park status to protect it.

Native vegetation

Hetch Hetchy is beautiful. 

I am surprised I never went there before

The reservoir (which is closed to swimming and boating) is clear and clean. 

Clear water

The rock cliff incredible and the dam is exceptionally pretty. You can walk across it, through a tunnel in the rock and around the lake.

The tunnel to the trail around the reservoir

The name is probably from a native word hetchhatchie, which means edible grasses. Grass filled the valley before it was dammed.

The trail

After visiting Hetch Hetchy, we drove a very narrow, winding road back to the highway and then headed for Petaluma, where we had decided to stay for our trip to Point Reyes.

Trip date: July 26-August 8, 2013