If I Were Going...: Point Reyes

Me at the Point Reyes Lighthouse

A few years ago, when Donna Wilson and I went to Point Reyes National Seashore, we had lots of fog. So much that we couldn't even see where to go to see the lighthouse.

When Caty and I drove over, we were thrilled to have brilliant sunshine.

Pretty view on the route

We stopped at the Visitors Center and examined all the possible wildlife. We were excited to find out that Elephant Seals live at Point Reyes and disappointed when the Ranger said we wouldn't see any because the had all left for sea. Actually, this Ranger was the most obnoxious, condescending public servant I have ever encountered. He seemed to be mocking us for wanting to see Elephant Seals (granted, we hadn't researched in advance, but we also hadn't had Point Reyes in our original itinerary).

These would be cool to see

So, we rushed to the lighthouse. We were surprised to find that it is only open on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Luckily it was Thursday. On the way, we saw a few fawns.

Mule Deer fawn

Drake Beach

As we got closer to the lighthouse site, it got cloudier and foggier. Since we had heard the fog was supposed to lift, we decided to visit Drake Beach and then go back to the lighthouse later.

Drake Beach

We turned off at the Chimney Rock road because we were curious. It was windy and cold, but the ocean was beautiful, so at the end of the road, we decide the walk down the trail to get some shots.

We're just here for the view

As we looked down the trail, we saw something moving on the beach. Elephant Seals!!!

Seem Mr. Ranger Sir was wrong

Elephant Seals fighting!!!

Definitely Elephant Seals

Northern Elephant Seals

The Elephant Seals in California are the Northern species; there is also a Southern species.

Sparring

Hundreds of thousands of Northern Elephant Seals once inhabited the Pacific Ocean, but they were slaughtered wholesale in the 1800s for the oil that could be rendered from their blubber. By 1892, less than 100 were left. The only remaining colony was on the Guadalupe Island off the coast of Baja California. In 1922, Mexico gave protected status to Northern Elephant Seals, and the U. S. government followed a few years later when the Seals began to appear in Southern California waters.

Since that time, Northern Elephant Seals have continued to multiply exponentially, and today, there are approximately 200,000 Northern Elephant Seals.

The Northern Elephant Seal is the second largest Seal in the world, after the Southern Elephant Seal, but there is significant difference between males and females. Males average 5,000 lbs. and 14-16 feet, while females are 900-1,800 lbs. and 9-12 feet. Calves can weigh up to 79 lbs and be up to 4 feet long.

You can see a calf, bulls and cows here

Another difference between sexes is the bull's large proboscis, reminiscent of an Elephant's trunk (hence the name).

The bull's proboscis produces extraordinarily loud roaring noises, especially during the mating season, and acts as a rebreather that re-absorbs moisture from exhalations. This is important during the mating season when the Seals do not leave the beach to feed, and must conserve body moisture.

We could hear them roaring

Elephant Seals are considered "true seals" (as opposed to being Sea Lions) because they have no external ear and very small limbs/flippers. This helps them move easily in the water, but makes navigating on land difficult.

They took the fight into the water, presumably for better maneuverability

They spend 80 percent of their lives underwater in search of food and can cover 60 miles a day when they head out to sea. They can hold their breath for more than 100 minutes, longer than any other non-cetacean mammal , and can dive to over 5,000 feet beneath the ocean's surface. The average depth of their dives is 1,000 to 2,000 feet, typically for around 20 minutes for females and 60 minutes for males. They eat Skates, Rays, Squid, Octopus, Eels, small Sharks and large fish.

Fighting and resting

Like Whales, Elephant Seals are protected from cold more by their blubber than by fur. Their hair and outer layers of skin molt in large patches. During this time, they are susceptible to the cold and must rest on land in a safe place called a "haul out."

Haul out

Their average lifespan is only nine years.

Lighthouse

After watching the seals for quite awhile, we headed back to the lighthouse. The fog seemed about the same, but we decided it was now or never, so we walked down the very, very windy road.

The trees are testament to constant wind from the northwest

Along the walk, there is a nice view of the beach below ...

The view disappearing into the fog

... and, later, of the rocks below ...

This is what you expect on the California coast

... plus, you can see the colorful plants and lichen that grows on the rocky cliffs ...

Diverse plants and lichen make for a colorful view

To get to the lighthouse, it's down more than 300 steps plus about an equal amount of ramps along rock cliffs.

It was so foggy on my last trip, I didn't even know about the walk

But, we could see the lighthouse!!! Yay.

And, a cool lighthouse it is

Point Reyes is the most treacherous place along the west coast, so the lighthouse was critical.

Weather and geology both treacherous

The lighthouse has a fresnel lens, made in France and hand-carried for installation.

Considered the best in lighthouse lenses

The lighthouse is now decommissioned, giving way to more easily managed (but ess romantic) warning systems.

Inside the lighthouse

Now, there is a light station below and foghorns.

From the decor around the lighthouse, I assume it's a great place to watch for migrating Whales (primarily Gray and Humpback).

A whale mosaic in the courtyard

We didn't see any.

We are so glad we got to see the lighthouse.

A fun place to pose

Up until now, my photo of the area was less than impressive.

Point Reyes, 2011

Moving On

After the lighthouse, we went to Drake Beach with hopes of visiting the Visitors Center and having lunch at the cafe. Both were inexplicably closed (maybe because there "were no Elephant Seals").

Just two people walking the beach

So, we threw together a snack and headed north. We stopped at a grocery in Inverness and bought a delicious sandwich and headed to the other side of the park. It's less majestic, but we did see the lovely Pearce historic farm, Tomales Bay ...