If I Were Going...: Legendary Rhythm & Blue Cruise

In January, Scott and I did something decidedly out of character. We went on a cruise. On a big ship.

Yes, we did!

If you know me, you know that I am not fond of big ship cruises. I love small ship cruises, but that's completely different.

This was Scott's first big ship experience. I had been on three before this trip.

Looking down on my first ship from Santorini, Greece

The first was in 2007 with Caty and Becca.

My daughters were my travel companions

We took a Norwegian Cruise Line Ancients Cruise from Venice to Istanbul and Ephesus, Turkey; Delos, Mykonos, Santorini, Crete, Corfu, Katakolon and Athens (Acropolis and associated ruins), Greece; and Alexandria, Cairo and Giza, Egypt.

Caty and Becca in front of the ship

None of us had been on a cruise and we picked that one because it had long shore excursions to great places (we even had an overnight in Cairo).

One of many highlights

We had a great time.

Our "fancy" dinner

We loved all the excursion destinations ...

Delos, Greece

But, we were underwhelmed by the actual ship experience. The room was small but OK, even though the third bed in a three-person room was supremely uncomfortable.

That orange "couch" was my "bed"

The food (which we had heard so many people rave about) was so-so and the ships amenities were nothing special, except for multiple Second City performances that were hilarious.

In 2019, I went on two cruises.

The first was a pelagic birding trip with friend Susan and her friend, Kathy.

Susan, me and Kathy on the (very cold) bow

We started in California and then spent time onboard a Princess Cruise Line repositioning trip from LA to Vancouver. Basically, they had ended the Southern-California-to-Mexico season and were getting ready for the Vancouver-to-Alaska season. In fact, the first Alaska cruise of their season started as soon as we disembarked in Vancouver.

My only time on Princess

The ship was rather garish and a bit shabby.

What is this?

The cruise was dirt cheap because it was a repositioning trip with no excursions, so it was a mystery to me why people would do it. I guess a low-cost room with maid service, all-you-can-eat buffets and gambling is a big draw. It was too cold for sunning or swimming in the pool, although it was filled and ready. I didn't care; the birding was fascinating.

We spent all day every day on the bow

Laysan Albatross

Read about it here.

And, later in the year I went on a Carnival Cruise from Tampa with a bunch of friends from high school.

Me with Donna the first day onboard

A highlight was cruising under the Sunshine Skyway Bridge in Tampa

I went primarily to spend time with good friends and because the cruise was originally slated for Cuba, which I really wanted to visit. But, the Trump administration canceled tourism travel to Cuba and Carnival redirected to Grand Cayman and Cozumel.

Grand Cayman was one of the few places in the Caribbean I had already visited

The boat was tacky with (again) so-so food and ridiculously crowded public areas.

Yikes!

I snorkeled in Grand Cayman.

Just a few fish

It did not live up at all to my previous excellent experience snorkeling there when I visited with friend, Donna. This time we were close to where the big ships were anchored.

We also lunched by the bay (full of ships)

I suspect I ingested diesel fuel in the process.

Extreme close-up

The excursion I took to Tulum when in Mexico was fantastic ...

Interesting ruins

Great wildlife

And a rather damp tender from the ship

The time with my friends was priceless. So, yes, I enjoyed it.

The gang

Read about it here.

I was slated to go on another cruise with the same high school group in 2024, but had to cancel because of a family wedding.

Cruising with Scott

So, why did I want to go on a cruise with Scott, who like cruises and tours far less than I do?

It was a Blues Cruise – actually the Legendary Rhythm & Blue Cruise #44 – on the Holland America Cruise Line.

The cruise departed from Fort Lauderdale and traveled to ...

Half Moon Cay, Bahamas

Cruz Bay, St. John, US Virgin Islands

Sint Maarten

The real draw, however, was mega-time onboard with almost nonstop blues music.

Poster, Ronnie Baker Brooks, Kingfish, Young Rell, Kathy and Sally Jo; Photos: Scott Stevens

And, because we are us, we also planned time after the cruise in the Florida Keys and the Tampa Bay area.

Getting booked on the Blues Cruise is not easy. It has die-hard fans. In fact, local friends Sally Jo, Steve, Kathy and Randy have been on multiple Blues Cruises, often two per year. Steve and Sally Jo actually met on one when she lived in Seattle and he lived in Colorado Springs. Now married, they live in the Springs.

Left: Sally Jo and Steve on in 2023, Sally Jo's FaceBook; Right: In 2026, Scott Stevens

People who have traveled before get first dibs and, after that, pickings are slim. I went online the minute reservations for newbies opened up and there were just a handful of outside cabins available. I don’t do inside cabins and, generally, I want a balcony. The cabin I booked had a disclaimer: “Under Late-Night Music Venue.”

That meant LOUD!

I figured we’d probably be at the late-night venues, soooo …

But, I immediately applied to be put on a waitlist for a better room.

After a couple of months, we got our veranda cabin; Photos: Holland America

It was much, much later that shore excursions opened up for reservations. I wasn’t quick enough there and was only able to get on a waiting list (which never opened up) for snorkeling in St. John. I will talk about excursions later.

So, let’s dive in.

South Florida

This cruise was in late January-early February. I do not trust weather or airlines to get us anywhere in time, so I booked two nights in Fort Lauderdale before the cruise. That turned out to be wise because it snowed in Colorado right after we left and we might have missed or had a close call for cruise departure.

My gut was right; Graphic: KKTV

The cruise had an official hotel from which it had shuttles to the cruise terminal, but it was long sold-out when we got our reservation. There was also some kind of pre-cruise party there, but we didn't do that either.

I booked us at the Tranquilo, which seemed relatively close to the terminal. When we arrived, I realized that terminal access is not particularly easy for any hotel.

The Tranquilo was fine. It had a very old-school Miami vibe with terrazzo floors and multiple pools in little courtyards. The room was huge with a kitchen and seating area. I think it may have been a long-term stay place for snowbirds in the past. It was a few blocks from the beach, far enough off the main road to be quiet.

The Tranquilo; Photo: Scott Stevens

It would have been perfect for hanging in the sun at the pool or the beach, but it was a bit cool and windy for that, so we never broke out the bathing suits.

The first night, we went to Truluck’s, an upscale (read: pricey) seafood restaurant for stone crab claws. Scott had made reservations that we had to delay because our flight was a bit late and it took forever to get our luggage and car and to drive the relatively short distance from the Fort Lauderdale Airport to the hotel (crazzzy traffic). The restaurant was a bit fancier than we probably needed. We had just salads and crab, which were delicious, but we could have gotten the same elsewhere faster and cheaper.

Fancy! Photo: American Cuisine

Even though I had planned to just explore Fort Lauderdale while there, Scott had different plans, We ended up driving all the way to Big Cypress Preserve/Everglades National Park. I have written about both before.

We didn’t do much (which is fairly standard for us). We drove (forever!) and ended up doing only two things.

We drove the Scenic Loop Road, a 24-mile-long gravel road off of the Tamiami Trail that usually delivers some good wildlife sightings in a cypress swamp.

Scenic Loop Road

We saw lots and lots of Alligators – probably 40 – but we stopped to photograph only a few.

A particularly cooperative American Alligator

We also saw ...

Great Blue Herons

Snowy Egrets

Great Egrets

A Florida Red-bellied Cooter Turtle

Wood Storks

Red-shouldered Hawks

Belted Kingfishers

It was not as full of birds as past trips, but a pleasant day, nonetheless.

We had lunch in Chokoloskee, which is on the eastern side of Everglades/Big Cypress. We stopped at the HavAnnA Café because we wanted Cuban food. Since moving from Florida in the 1980s, we’ve struggled finding really decent Cuban food, so we never miss a chance in Florida.

The place was charming, with a colorful outside garden seating area and some live Florida-style music (think Jimmy Buffett).

Pretty and very tropical

I had a little trepidation because, in my experience, South Florida Cuban food does not measure up to Tampa Cuban food, especially the Cuban sandwiches. This may just be because I grew up on the Tampa ones, but I have been disappointed in the Southern ones, especially the bread.

I have read multiple places that the Cuban sandwich is actually a Tampa sandwich, invented by Cuban immigrants in Tampa as a way to carry familiar foods (ham, pork) to lunch in the cigar factories. I have also read that Tampa Cuban bread cannot be duplicated because of the water, humidity and technique. I believe that to be true, No one else seems to be able to capture the ultra crisp exterior and soft interior.

La Segunda Bakery's Cuban bread (baked on palm leaves); Photo: Tampa Bay Times

Now, to add on to that, Scott has become increasingly disturbed by the “Great Cuban Sandwich Pork Swicheroo.” We remember a Cuban sandwich as having sliced ham, sliced roast pork, salami and Swiss cheese with mustard, mayo and dill pickle slices. Now, everywhere we go – Tampa included – the sliced roast pork has been replaced with pulled pork. I don’t really mind, but it disturbs Scott deeply.

Full disclosure for what it’s worth: I like to add lettuce and tomato to my Cuban even though I know that is WRONG! And, second disclosure: Tampa sandwiches have salami; Miami ones do not.

Chart: Colombia Restaurant; Photo: Chili Pepper Madness

When we sat down at HavAnnA, a waitress took our drink order. Then, another came by and asked for our drink order. We mentioned that we had already ordered and she told us that they don’t assign table to specific servers; they all work all the tables. Before she walked off, Scott asked, “do your Cubans have sliced or pulled pork?” She immediately responded that we could get either. Then, when a third waitress came to take our food order, we ordered a Cuban with sliced pork, and she informed us that they had only pulled pork. The multi-server plan? Not so good.

So, Scott decided to order oysters on the half shell. And I went ahead an ordered a Cuban although I thought that might be a mistake.

Scott’s oysters arrived covered in sauce – a combo of a cocktail-type sauce, a vinaigrette and lots of chopped herbs.

What's this? Looks like Mignonette, not on the half shell; Photo: Scott Stevens

He was a bit put off because he didn’t order them sauced (nor was he asked if he wanted sauce), but we thought that he probably missed the menu description. He ate them, but was not pleased.

The sandwich, as I feared, was a disappointment. The bread was wrong – more like hoagie roll than Cuban bread – and something else was off.

Cuban Sandwich (this one has mustard); Photo: HavAnnA Cafe

I ate half and took the rest to eat later. It wasn’t until later that I realized that it was missing the mustard.

That’s it. No more Cuban sandwiches in South Florida!!!

Oh, and when we asked to see the menu to peruse desserts, I checked and the oysters were listed was “on the half shell” without any mention of sauce.

The key lime pie was OK; Photo HavAnnA's Cafe

Not a great experience!

That evening, we found a tapas bar listed near us. We took off walking and couldn't find it. What we found was a bar in small hotel with a different name than the listing and, even though it allegedly served tapas, it was too late for anything but drinks. We ended up having a decent but not very Floridian Italian dinner.

The Cruise

The next day was all about figuring out how to get to the Port Everglades Cruise Terminal.

Port Everglades Cruise Terminal; Photo: Cruise&Ferry

Originally, we thought about dropping off the rental car the night before and taking an Uber. But, then, Scott opted instead to drive me there, drop me with all the luggage, return the car and Uber back. That caused a time crunch and he returned the car almost empty. So, we paid triple for gasoline! Probably the cost of an Uber, so, whatever!

So much for convenience

Then, of course, like most travel, it was a waiting game. Wait to get into the terminal gate. Wait on the curb to check luggage. Wait for Scott to return. Wait in line to check in. Wait in line to show your passport. Wait in a huge lobby until your group is called.

But, we finally made it onboard.

The ship, Holland America's Nieuw Statendam, was much nicer than the other cruise ships I had been on. At least, the décor was much more tasteful.

Holland America's Nieuw Statendam; Photo Holland America

Our room was fine: typically small, but not tiny. It had an actual shower stall and a small couch in addition to the bed. And, there was ample storage for clothes. So, that was fine.

In general, the food was good, with lots of options at the Lido buffet, plus a couple of other “included” options: burger, pizza, Dutch food (it is Holland America).

Buffet station; Photo: SingleFlyer

There was also an included sit-down options that required reservations. We never made it there. By the time we decided we wanted to try it, it was all booked. The ship also had multiple upgraded dining options (you have to pay extra to partake and you must have reservations). Scott and I ate at Canaletto, the Italian restaurant, one night and, on our final night, we had dinner with Sally Jo, Steve, Kathy and Randy at Tamarind, the Asian fusion restaurant. Both were fine, but nothing to write home about. So, I will write no more.

Right before we left for Florida, Scott decided to buy beverage cards to make it easier to order alcohol onboard. BIG MISTAKE. I had to go to the customer service desk THREE times to try to straighten that mess out.

I love standing in line (and missing music); Photo: Luc & June Travel & Food Blog

Even though we handed over the card every time we purchased, we discovered about halfway in that they were not tapping the card but were instead charging the drinks to the cabin. Drink cards are a “use it or lose it” proposition, so that is not good. I finally got it (I think) straightened out, but we did lose a few bucks on my card. Since charging to the cabin was easy, there was no point in having the card.

Although the cruise was full, I found the ship to be busy but not as outrageously crowded as other cruises. Of course, we didn’t do anything onboard except listen to music.

Some venues were packed, but never too much

So, let’s get to heart of the thing.

The MUSIC

The music and the musicians were fantastic.

Tommy Castro and Christone “Kingfish” Ingram; Photos: Scott Stevens

If you calculated what you might have shelled out to see all of these high-caliber acts in concert, the cruise was a steal.

Scott photographing our friends with Tommy Castro

Starting in the afternoon and going until the wee hours (I was at one jam until 4:00 am), there were multiple acts in multiple locations. You could move between them at will.

Some acts were in smaller venues: Photo: LRBC

Some were in the ship's auditorium

Some were at a stage set up by the main pool

And, some acts moved through the crowd; This is Kingfish

While many were billed as specific acts, most also added other artists (sometimes on the spur of the moment).

Ronnie Baker Brooks and Billy Branch; Photo: Scott Stevens

Every day ended with jams. The jams were my favorite part. It was fun to see musicians really enjoying playing with other musicians. And, some of the collaborations were pure magic. This one went late, late, late ...

It was also fun watching the headliners fan-girling other headliners ...

Tommy Castro taking video of Kenny Wayne Shepherd

... and, seeing the musicians mingling with the fans.

Scott with Kingfish; Scott's signed guitar; friends with Tommy; Photos; Scott Stevens

In addition to performances, there were also some interviews and "blues lessons."

A discussion on legendary Chicago blues clubs

I have no complaints about the caliber, variety or frequency of the musical acts.

So, who was there?

Tommy Castro & the Painkillers; Photo: Scott Stevens

Tommy is often thought of as the anchor performer for the Legendary Rhythm & Blues Cruises.

Deanna Bogart; Photos: Scott Stevens

Deanna and Tommy met on Cruise #35 and married on #43.

Taj Mahal & the Phantom Blues Band; Photo: Scott Stevens

Kenny Wayne Shepherd; Photos: Scott Stevens

Christone “Kingfish” Ingram; Photos: Scott Stevens

Dumpstaphunk; Photo: LRBC

Ronnie Baker Brooks; Photo: Scott Stevens

Danielle Nicole Band; Photos: Scott Stevens

Victor Wainwright & the Train; Photo: LRBC

Vanessa Collier; Left: LRBC; Right: Scott Stevens

Billy Branch & the Sons of Blues Revue; Photos: Scott Stevens

Nick Moss Band featuring Dennis Gruenling; Photos: LRBC

Southern Avenue; Photo: Scott Stevens

Mr. Sipp/Mr. Sipp’s Sugar Shack; Photo: Scott Stevens

Doug MacLeod; Photos: Scott Stevens

Monster Mike Welch; Photo: LRBC

Zac Harmon & the Drive; Photo: Scott Stevens

Jontavious Willis (Solo & Band); Photo: LRBC

Ghalia Volt (Solo & Band); Photo: LRBC

Keeshea Pratt Band

Dylan Triplett Band; Photo: LRBC

Mathias Lattin Band; Photo: LRBC Recap Video

Dave Gross & Pat Harrington; Photo: LRBC Recap Video

Josh Hoyer & Soul Colossal (’25 IBC Winners); Photo: Scott Stevens

Mitch Woods Club 88; Photo: Scott Stevens

Rev. Billy C. Wirtz; Photo: Scott Stevens

Daryl Davis; Photo: LRBC

Kelley Hunt; Photo: Scott Stevens

Eden Brent & Bob Dowell; Photo: LRBC

Brooks Milgate; Photo: LRBC Recap Video

Chuk Barber’s Soul Lounge; Photo: Bluesmatters.com

Harrell “Young Rell” Davenport; Photos: Scott Stevens

Kid & Lisa Andersen; Photo: LRBC Recap Video

Stephen Hull Experience; Photo: LRBC

David Julia; Photo: LRBC

I didn’t see every act, but I saw most (and some I saw in the jams). It was hard to spread time between acts you knew you liked and wanting to try out new ones.

Scott in the auditorium

But it was special.

I mentioned jams. Every night, there was a “Pro Jams,” where the performers put on fabulous shows.

Tommy Castro hosted many of the Pro Jams

Plus, there were also “Pro-Am Jams” where cruise attendees could show their stuff. And, yes, many cruisers are supremely talented. Here’s a clip of friend Steve (vocalist) and Randy (saxophonist on the far right) at a jam and, here’s Randy backing up Tommy Castro ...

Good stuff

I mentioned that friends, Sally Jo, Steve, Randy and Kathy were also on the trip. While we didn't spend all our time with them, we did connect occasionally, when we showed up at the same venue and the night we had dinner together.