Holm Bugt

Signs of life (Reindeer), but we never saw any

After going deep into Greenland's Oscar Kong Fjord system, we headed back out of Alpefjord to Holm Bugt. It is a scenic, sandy bay located within the Northeast Greenland National Park on the coast of Traill Ø, still in the Kong Oscar Fjord region.

The peaks don't even look real; Photo: Scott Stevens

Traill Ø is on the eastern side of King Oscar Fjord, northeast of Davy Sound. The highest summit of the island is a 6,181-foot unnamed peak of the Svinhufvud Range.

Holm Bugt vista

Holm Bugt is known for its trapper cabin and archaeological remains of the ancient Thule culture. The area features relatively flat, open terrain that offers expansive views of the fjord.

We stayed until sunset; Photo: Scott Stevens

It was originally named Holms Vik (Holm's Beach) by A.G. Nathorst's 1899 expedition, probably after Gustaf Birger Anders Holm, a publisher of educational books, who had donated to the expedition.

Our ship, 126 years later

Once again, we did the leisurely walk, rather than scaling the peaks.

Another, more athletic, group; Photos: Sandesh

We spent much of our time discussing Greenlandic vegetation and even tasting some Crowberries (tart but tasty!).

Berries from the "forest;" Photos: Scott Stevens

Then, we saw Holm Bugt's famous stone art, for which it doesn't appear the origin is known. The modern-looking "installation," formed from small pebbles arranged as a long curved arc that ends in a tower topped with Reindeer antlers, may represent a sea monster or serpent.

An earlier pic of the art; Photo: Wikipedia

This, along with other stone art found in the area, may be an interpretation of local, possibly Inuit-influenced, designs.

These structures are distinct from ancient petroglyphs and appear to be recent, potentially modern. The photos I found online after I returned don't actually match what we saw on Holm Bugt. So, there are two possible scenarios. Maybe what we saw was some of the "other stone art found in the area." Or, the tower forming the sea monster's head had fallen or been knocked down. 

What we saw; Left: Sandesh

It's mysterious and I cannot find an answer.

Holm Bugt is also known as the site of the Tolvmandsbarak (Twelve-Man Barrack), a historic cabin used for shelter and research, notably by the Nanok Team, a group focused on scientific research and cabin maintenance in East Greenland. 

Built by Norwegian hunters in 1932, Tolvmandsbarak features six rooms with bunk beds and a large common room and has required restoration following damage from hungry Polar Bears. We couldn't see Tolvmandsbarak from our vantage point.

Kayakers passing a shed (also not Tolvmandsbarak); Photo: Scotty Sinton

We did, however, see a canvas-covered supply hut.

Ian, the ship's history expert, was again our guide

Everything was carefully stacked and weighted.

Secured to minimize potential Bear damage

Holm Bugt is also the site of an airstrip, about which I can find absolutely no information online. 

An old barrel marking the edge

I think it was constructed to facilitate now-defunct mining operations nearby, but is no longer used. I guess I should have paid more attention or taken notes.

 

Kayakers saw more but probably didn't take notes, either; Photo: Scotty Sinton

This is the problem with being too busy to blog right after a trip. Sometimes you forget things.

Holm Bugt is known for its harsh, icy environment, challenging navigation and proximity to scientific, expedition-related sites.

The warm light made it look less harsh, but I imagine winter is rough

I think I failed giving a good overview of Holm Bugt, so just enjoy the photos.

An expansive view; Photo: Scott Stevems

One of the nice thing about our afternoon landings was the beautiful sunsets we saw almost every evening. 

Our ship basking in the glow

I found that, if we returned to the ship before golden hour, I tended to miss sunsets because I was busy taking off boots and heavy gear, sorting gear in my room and, usually, grabbing a cup of hot tea.

Being onshore forced observation, for which I am thankful.

Magic

What's next?

Civilization!

Trip dates September 5 – 30, 2025