If I Were Going...: Canadian National Parks: Jasper National Park

The star of the Canadian Rockies

I believe one of the gems of National Parks around the world is Jasper National Park in Jasper, Alberta. It is breathtaking.

Lake Annette

And, has great animals.

And, there are even birds

It is best reached via the Icefields Parkway …

A great way to get there

… and it’s a wonderful place.

Cabin

Because we were taking our time on this trip, I booked three full nights at the Tekarra Lodge in Jasper. It is located right on the edge of town, but it feels worlds away from the hustle bustle. Yes, despite its far north location, Jasper can get very crowded with tourists and it was already busy when we were there.

Our cute cabin

We had what was called a “Bachelor Cabin,” which was half a duplex with a double bed, couch, table, stove, full-sized refrigerator, full bath and a fireplace. We had to move the furniture a bit so that we could get in and out of bed and open and close the bathroom door, but it was cozy and comfortable. And, it was nice to have a kitchen.

A nice place: All photos except center bottom: Scott Stevens

We had a brief power outage, but it wasn’t out long enough to cause issues (even though the night was chilly). And, the staff was very accommodating, even coming to our cabin to explain what was happening. There was also a laundry room, free bagged ice and bicycles that could be rented (or maybe borrowed; we didn’t check).

The location was ideal. I would definitely go back there. Tekarra has a restaurant that got good reviews, but we had enough food with us that we never ate out (well, we did have a snack in town so that Scott could get some poutine).

Poutine: french fries, cheese curds and brown gravy; Photo: Scott Stevens

A Pretty Bear

The very first thing that happened when we arrived in Jasper was a Bear sighting. As we turned onto the road to the Lodge, I saw a Grizzly – most likely a subadult – by the Athabasca River, which flows past the Lodge. Unfortunately, there was also a policeman who wouldn’t let anyone stop. So, no photos. But, the next morning, we encountered what I believe was the same Bear.

Hello, again!

And, this time, there were no authorities to shoo us away.

This was very close to our cabin

Because it was close, we stayed in the car. But, I was able to get lots of very nice photos.

Many views

It was a particularly pretty Bear.

A nice silvery coat

And, the light was great.

Here's looking at you

We had come to Jasper looking for Grizzlies. So, I was happy to be able to get pictures of this one.

A pleasant morning

It turns out that it was the only one we saw there.

Scenery

My last post was about the Icefields Parkway and featured lots of photos of the gorgeous scenery. I don’t want to be unclear about exactly where we were. The Icefields Parkway traverses both Banff and Jasper National Parks, so many of those vistas are actually in Jasper.

In fact, the Columbia Icefield and the Athabasca Glacier are at the southern end of the Park.

Athabasca Glacier

There is a lot of beautiful scenery beyond the Parkway, as well.

Right after we arrived, we drove out to Maligne Lake, passing the almost-empty Medicine Lake on the way. On a bluff above the Medicine Lake, we saw a Bald Eagle in a nest.

A forbidden nest

We snapped a few shots before we noticed the sign that said, “No Parking or Stopping.” So, we moved on.

Maligne Lake

Famed for its azure water, surrounding peaks, three glaciers above it and Spirit Island in it, the lake is actually south of town, but you have to drive northeast to access the road. In the summer, there are boat tours (we have taken them in the past), but they weren’t up and running for the season yet. The Lodge on the lake wasn’t open either.

The Yellow-rumped Warbler was the only guest at the Lodge

Maligne Lake is approximately 14 miles long and average 115 feet deep; its deepest point is 318 feet. It is fed and drained by the Maligne River, which enters the lake on the south side and drains to the north. The lake and river (along with a mountain and a pass) take their name from the French word for malignant or wicked, which was bestowed because of the Maligne River’s turbulence in the spring, especially at its treacherous confluence with the Athabasca River.

Maligne Lake

Like everything else here, the valley in which the lake lies was carved and excavated by valley glaciers. The lake is dammed at its northern end by a moraine deposited by the last glacier.

The rocks around the lake speak of its glacial history

We saw a fair amount of wildlife during our two drives down the road to Maligne Lake, including a couple of Black Bears …

Enjoying a roadside snack

… both rather close to the road …

A nice dark brown Bear

We also saw some Bighorn Sheep …

A kid grazing by the road

And, as we drove a long stretch, we saw a truck suddenly stop as a Moose cow passed in front of it …

Wildlife sighting!

We thought the Moose would run into the woods, but she didn’t.

A female Northwestern Moose

She stopped by the road to munch on some willow …

Not fazed by us at all

That was a pleasant surprise.

Maligne Canyon

The Maligne River also forms another major feature of Jasper National Park: Maligne Canyon, which is at the very beginning of Maligne Road.

Maligne Canyon

There is a nice trail that zig-zags over the river via a series of bridges. We have hiked the entire trail on other trips, but this time we made only a few quick stops. That’s partially because we were looking for animals (often unsuccessfully) ...

Bighorn Sheep in town

... partially because we had some rain and once because I spent a great deal of time photographing a Common Raven nest on the canyon wall below the bridge.

Three chicks and a parent

It is not often that you get a true bird’s eye view of a nest. This was very special.

Looking into the nest

Slot canyons are fairy common in the northern Rockies because the region’s limestone is highly soluble.

At 160 feet deep in some places and less than 8 feet wide in many, Maligne is one of the deepest slot canyons in the Rockies.

Deep and narrow

The Canyon was formed (and is continually altered) by the Maligne River, which flows out of Medicine Lake and then temporarily disappears into seeps in the ground, becoming a subterranean stream for awhile.

While underground, it joins with smaller streams that also feed the valley.

Then, the Maligne River reemerges as a much stronger course by the time it reaches the top of Maligne Canyon.

The river gains strength

The river drops into the Canyon, joining numerous large underground streams that amplify its flow. The Canyon is constantly being eroded by the churning and swirling of the water. It's very impressive.

Other Lakes

This time, we explored several lakes within the Park. The first, Pyramid Lake, is named for the triangular mountain that looms above it.

A pretty setting

It is the site of a Lodge, picnic sites and boat ramps. When the sun hits it right, the water is a gorgeous turquoise.

Such color!

This time, we checked out Edith Lake and Lake Annette, which are very close to town and seem more like a town park, with picnic tables and walking paths, than a National Park. The lakes are gorgeous.

Perfection!

And, the area had a bigger variety of birds than I had seen elsewhere (granted, not new birds, but at least some variety).

CW: Canada Jay, Eastern Kingbird, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Chipping Sparrow, Dark-eyed Junco

As I walked along, I had a laugh. I had recently heard a comedian talk about surprises of becoming an adult, including finding out that “quicksand isn’t as big a problem as movies and cartoons led him to believe.” As I rounded a corner, I saw a warning sign. I guess there still are some treacherous areas in the world.

Maybe Indiana Jones didn't read the signs

Miette Hot Springs

Having failed to visit the hot springs in Radium (again), we decided to take a trip to Miette Hot Springs, which is about an hour north of Jasper up a winding mountain road. We had been there once before on a lovely sunny day and I had enjoyed relaxing is a relatively empty outdoor pool. It’s the hottest springs in the Canadian Rockies and it has its own resort right next door. The water is a blazing 129° F when it emerges and it is cooled to steamy, but comfortable 104° F for the pool.

At the pool; Photos: Scott Stevens

The day was a bit chilly and gray, so I didn’t get to enjoy basking in the sun. And, it was very, very crowded. We quickly tired of standing in the middle of a human soup bowl, so we cut our losses and left. Still, it was a pleasant morning.

A Final Bear Encounter

The last night we were in Jasper, we drove west on Highway 16 into British Columbia. Years before, we had seen a Grizzly here, so we figured “what the heck.” Well, there was a lot of truck traffic, so we gave up on our Bear search and headed back. Then, just never the Park entrance, we encountered a Black Bear at a pullout where several other cars had stopped.