Sunday, July 31, 2022

Last Day: Yellowstone National Park

Roaring Mountain
Although we were originally slated to just head for home with a stop at Mount Evans outside Denver, we changed out plans. We switched to one more night in Silver Gate just outside the Northeast Yellowstone Entrance. 

We wanted to see if we could find some Grizzly COYs (although, if we did, that would be a dilemma because it was originally Caty's plan and she was no longer with us on the trip). And, our visit to Mount Evans had already been cancelled because the road hadn't opened yet. I knew it was a long-shot when I booked. Maybe later this year.

Two potentials were the Beryl Springs Sow and her two adorable cubs that had been seen by many photographers over the past few weeks ... 

Photos: Yellowstone Bears, Jeff Bittner, Adam Rice
Unfortunately, right before we returned, we found out that a mating boar had killed both the cute little babies, probably in hopes of mating with the sow. I suspect that the culprit was the same boar we saw kill the subadult at the beginning of our visit ...

Scary guy
Another baby Bear possibility was the Bear called Blondie, who lives in Grand Teton and had recently shown up with three COYs. 

Photo: Yellowstone Bears, Brian Allen
We never made it down there and shortly after our trip, she was seen missing the babies. Apparently something happened to them, too. It was a bad year for COYs. 

Photo: Wyoming Wildlife Advocates, 2020
Also, as an update, one of Bear 399's quads was put down by Park Rangers in July after multiple food-seeking mis-steps. These are the cubs that caused a sensation when they debuted in 2020 (we didn't go because of the pandemic).

We saw them briefly in 2021. 

399 and two of the four, 2021
It has been a tough few years for Bears in Yellowstone and a lot of the problem (contrary to people blaming photographers and tourists) seems to be lax garbage storage restrictions and enforcement in nearby Wyoming towns, including Jackson. 

Anyway, we did see one set of twin COYs. On a hill about as far away as they could be seen and still be recognizable.

They are there, I swear
We also thought there might be another chance to see close-by Wolves. That didn't happen either. 

Silver Gate
So, we arrived full of excitement about potential Bears and Wolves. We had stayed in a motel-type room at Silver Gate Lodging several times. This time, we had a cabin across the road and over a stream back in the woods. It was adorable! 

What a nice surprise
It was compact, but with a full kitchen. 

Compact, but functional
And, it had an outside grill. It's too bad we didn't have the right foods in our dwindling food supply for a cookout. Who am I kidding? We don't hang out enough for that!

Our "little storm"
When I checked in, I noticed that the office was quite dark and that the clerk was showing a map to people using a camp lantern. 

How quaint!

Wait! The power was out -- and had been for two days.

It turns out that, after the short snowstorm we experienced when we were in Yellowstone a week earlier, there was another snowstorm while we were in Canada. 

Luckily, it was after Caty drove home (whew!).

It dumped huge amounts of snow south of Silver Gate in the Chief Joseph area of Wyoming (Silver Gate is in the small part of the Yellowstone area in Montana).

Photo: Cowboy State Daily
The snow had taken down power lines and, although lots of repairs had been completed and the power had briefly come back on, everything was dark. 

We had faith that it would be fixed by the time we returned that evening. 

Next time! 
There was no real point in worrying. The worst case would be a chilly night. 

And, sure enough, we had power when we got back that night. The only inconvenience was that the Log Cabin Restaurant was closed, so Scott couldn't get another trout dinner. We just ate our leftovers.

Animals and Birds
We were not as successful with animals on this trip. Yes, we saw massive amounts of Bison ...
 

... and we had nice encounters with a Coyote ...

A beautiful Coyote, pausing before running
... another blonde/gray Red Fox ...

This one was actually in Silver Gate
... and a male Moose with early-season antlers ... 

Near the Northeast Entrance
But, as far as Bears go, we saw just a few, including a Cinnamon Black Bear mom and yearling ...

Grazing in the shade
... another mom/yearling pair that I had assumed were Grizzlies because of the location and their size, but I am not so sure now. They look a bit more like Black Bears. But, I am not aware of fleeing-Bear-butt differentiation between the two species ... 

What do you think?
We did spend a bit of time with another mom and her two-year-olds -- these definitely Grizzlies -- in Lamar Valley late in the day.

Very healthy early season Bears
They were moving about quite a bit, drinking from a puddle ...

A cute family unit
... and running up and down a hill ...

Very active
Apparently, we just missed the cubs wrestling and startling some Pronghorn.

We didn't even see many birds, except the ubiquitous Common Raven, seen both in nature ...

Left, in Lamar Valley; Right, at the top of Tower Road
... and talking to us from the top of the gas pump as we filled up the car (with $5.00+ per gallon gas) ...

A great shot of that hooked bill
On the final morning, we saw some Common Loons on a foggy lake ...

Loons and fog go together
... and we saw a couple of Red-tailed Hawks, but not much else ...

Surveying his domain
Tower Road
One of the treats of the return trip was a chance to drive over Tower Road, which had been closed for over two years for construction. It's always the last main thoroughfare to open in Yellowstone each summer because it has the highest elevation.

You can see the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from Tower Road
I was looking forward to the wildflowers we usually see, but I forgot how early we were this year. 

What I was expecting
What we got was snow ...

Still winter up here
... lots of it ... 

What a pretty view
 Blue sky and snow. No animals, but pretty views.

Interestingly, while Tower Road looked nicely paved, I didn't notice much in the way of improvement. 

It is narrow and has lots of areas without guard rails. I had assumed that they were adding more pullouts and railings. But, I guess not. 

Perhaps a lot of what they needed to do involved the underlying integrity of the road. Sometimes it is better not to know.

It's not a good road for anyone with a fear of heights. But, it provides great views. 

And, it is the primary road between two of our favorite wildlife spots: Lamar and Hayden Valleys.

And, wildlife is what it is all about
Home
So, we were finally on our way home after a great trip to Grand Teton ...

Oxbow Bend
Yellowstone ...

Even without COYs, a great Grizzly adventure
Kootenay and Yoho ...

The beauty of the Canadian Rockies
The Icefields Parkway ... 

Mountains, mountains and more mountains
Jasper National Park ...

Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep, Northwestern Moose, Brown (Grizzly) Bear
And, Waterton Lakes National Park ...

Middle Waterton Lake
We saw some amazing things ...

Mama and baby Black Bear in a tree
... and lots of beautiful scenery ... 

Bow Lake, Banff National Park, Icefields Parkway
And, Later
We arrived home on June 2. Then, between June 10 and 13, Yellowstone flooded.

An atmospheric river -- a narrow band of tropical moisture -- soaked the Pacific Northwest before dumping several inches of rain on northern Wyoming and southern Montana. During that time, the Absaroka and Beartooth ranges received between 0.8 and 5 inches of rain.

Left photo; CNBC.com; Right photo: High Country News
The inundation coincided with a warm spell that exacerbated melting of the heavy snowpack (actually higher than normal because of late spring snows). 

And, that resulted in, according to the National Weather Service, "flooding rarely or never seen before across many area rivers and streams." 

Photo: NPR
The combined rain and snowmelt, equivalent to 4 to 9 inches of rain, flowed over already saturated soils, building up speed and strength as it coursed down hillsides. Roads and bridges washed out, campgrounds flooded, rockslides blocked roadways and buildings were even washed away.

On June 13, Park officials closed Yellowstone and announced the evacuation of more than 10,000 visitors. The runoff deluged the Yellowstone, Stillwater and Clarks Fork rivers and their tributaries. At Corwin Springs, north of Gardiner, the Yellowstone River crested at 13.88 feet, breaking the previous record of 11.5 feet set in 1918. A record river discharge of 51,400 cubic feet per second was also measured that day, breaking the previous record-high flow of 32,200 cubic feet per second in 1996.

This kind of damage takes a long time to repair; Photo: CNN
North of the Park, Gardiner and Silver Gate/Cooke City were isolated by the rising floodwaters, which washed-out roads and bridges, swept away multiple houses and flooded hundreds more. Rock Creek took out several bridges and flooded businesses in the historic downtown of Red Lodge, Montana. The flooding also caused power outages and compromised drinking water supplies in several towns.

The northern part of the Park, where the river flows through steep canyons, suffered the most damage as the Yellowstone River cut a new course. The road between Gardiner and the Park headquarters near Mammoth Hot Springs, a main supply route into the Park, was washed out and it is expected to take months to repair.

Photo: Boston Globe
The southern part of the Park saw less damage. On June 22, the West, South and East Entrances were re-opened along with the southern loop road, giving visitors access to Old Faithful. The North and Northeast Entrances to the park are closed indefinitely.

Wow! We had opted to go earlier than we usually do to try to see baby Bears. We could have easily picked that week.

Now, it remains to be seen whether we can go next year.

I hope I can get back to Roaring Mountain soon

Trip date: May 19-June 2, 2022

Saturday, July 30, 2022

Canadian National Parks: Waterton Lakes

Lower Waterton Lake
Our last stop in Canada was Waterton Lakes National Park, which shares a border with the U.S. Glacier National Park, forming a combined “Peace Park.” We have been there before and I was looking forward to abundant wildlife ...

Some sightings from 2013
... the view from the Prince of Wales Hotel ...

Photo: Scott Stevens
... and a little more cool green Canada before heading home ... 

I remember it being very, very green; 2013
We had booked a room at the Waterton Glacier Suites for two nights in the town of Waterton at what I thought was a ridiculously low rate for a generally expensive resort area. It was a gorgeous hotel with a huge suite comprising a living room, bath and bedroom. 

Our hotel and the welcoming committee
Plus, it had an absolutely fabulous Italian restaurant, Red Rock Trattoria, where we had a wonderful dinner. So why so cheap?

We soon discovered some of the reasons (and this falls under the “I shoulda known” category). 

What was happening here?
#1, it really wasn’t season yet. The town was very empty. It seemed like just us and lots of Bighorn Sheep (that would peek into our hotel room window and the window by our table as we were eating dinner). 

It was like a ghost town
#2 (and possibly the reason for #1), Waterton Lakes suffered devastating damage from a wildfire in 2017. Exceptionally hot weather, strong winds and extremely dry conditions (a common theme) fueled the extreme Kenow Wildfire over the first weeks of September. 

Five years later and it still looks like this
Burned trees everywhere
By the time it was over, 75 square miles -- 38 percent -- of the Park burned, including almost everything you can see from the Park’s two scenic drives. Another 60 square miles burned adjacent to the Park. 

The Waterton townsite, which was evacuated, was spared through the use of high-volume water pumps and sprinkler systems installed around the edge of the community and the removal of trees, shrubs, grasses and other flammable items. 

The iconic Prince of Wales was also saved. 

Still standing
It also appears that much of the vegetation along the shores of the three Waterton Lakes (Upper, Middle and Lower) survived. 

So, at least that view is still pretty (that's Waterton on the shore of the lake)
The fire affected the Akamina Parkway, the Red Rock Parkway and associated bridges, guardrails, signs, picnic areas and parking areas as well as 80 percent of the hiking trail network.

Now, all the pavement, guard rails, signs, bathrooms and picnic areas are new
Plus, the Visitor Centre, Crandell Mountain Campground, many buildings at Canyon Youth Camp, the Alpine Stables, staff housing and associated infrastructure such as water and electrical systems were destroyed. And, as one would expect, the fire and associated loss of vegetation drove out many of the animals that survived the blaze.

Terrible and heart-breaking
Because it was fast-moving, many animals were injured and had to be later put down by Park Rangers.

Little guys, like this Richardson's Ground Squirrel, fared better than Bears and Moose
So, here we were in an almost empty Park with a beautiful hotel room attached to a nice restaurant. But, there were no animals ...

Ok, we saw a Deer, some Ground Squirrels and the Bighorn Sheep
... and the landscape was some of the most depressing scenery you can imagine ...

It will be years before it grows back
We did some exploring when we got there, driving both Akamina and Red Rocks ...

Red Rocks
... and, checking out the lakes ...

Some of the prettiest lakes anywhere
... but, we decided to move on after the first night. 

What was the point?
We had time in the morning because the Carway border station, which was an hour away, didn’t open until 8:00 a.m. So, we stopped for some photos of the lakes … 

A nice calm morning
And, then pulled off in an area that was actually hopping with birds. 

The burned out area was full of birds
I saw my second Common Raven nest of the trip (and my life)!

Another nest!
There were Eastern Kingbirds, Red-winged Blackbirds and Tree Swallows …

Three familiar birds
Lots of Brown-headed Cowbirds ...

A nice pose
And, I picked up a new one for me, a Clay-colored Sparrow!

Lifer!
A pretty good stop.

I loved those little Ravenettes!
And, then on the way to the border, we stopped to investigate a Red-tailed Hawk on a fence.

Very cooperative
I slowly advanced toward it, snapping pictures and expecting it to fly away. It repositioned, but never vacated the spot. I probably could have petted it.

Moving to a new post
Then, we headed on down the road, viewing Glacier National Park in the distance, and crossing back into the good old USA. 

Border crossing
While we drove right past Glacier, we didn’t go in because we didn’t have entrance passes (the area seemed empty, so I am not sure what they were required). Instead we continued on south to our final destination. 

Glacier is over in that direction
Originally, we planned to go straight home after Waterton Lakes. But after all our Bear success in Yellowstone and because we had not seen any of the Grizzly COYs that we kept seeing people post on Yellowstone Bears, we were going back to Yellowstone for one more night.

Hoping for more
Maybe we’d see some of those cute babies.

What we were looking for (maybe without cars!); Photo: Yellowstone Bears (Brian Allen)

Trip date: May 19-June 2, 2022