Sunday, December 22, 2019

Cruising with the Gang


Left, me with bestie Donna Wilson; Right, our ship was the Carnival Paradise
Full disclaimer: I DO NOT like big-ship cruises. I think they are generally awful – mediocre food, crowded, second-rate entertainment (that I didn’t want anyway) and far too little time in port. I do LOVE small-ship cruises. Ironically I went on ONE small-ship cruise (click here to see the beginning blog of a series on my cruise to Svalbard, Norway) and TWO big-ship cruises this year. 

The reasons for the latter two had nothing to do with the cruise experience, however. The first was a pelagic birding trip and the second was this trip with a group my Clearwater High School friends.

Our ship
My high school graduating class has held reunions on a more-frequent-than-usual basis for years. We started with a 10-year and then had a fairly good-sized gathering every five years after that. 

When we all turned 60, we had an informal gathering a Clearwater Beach hotel. No dinners, no activities, no fees – just a bunch of old (and getting older every day) friends getting together to chat and drink and enjoy the beach. 

After that event, we did it every year. Last year, instead of a hotel gathering, it was a cruise. I didn’t go. 

So, when the opportunity to go on a cruise this year came up, I decided that I would go, even though I am not particularly fond of giant cruise ships. I just wanted to get together with old friends and have some fun.


Our cruise departed from the Port of Tampa, near where most of my classmates live
It was, however, very cool because we were going to Cuba! It was a short Carnival cruise with just one day in Key West and a day and a half in Cuba. But, Cuba! Once in a lifetime chance. I was jazzed.

Scott didn’t want to go, so I booked a cabin with a view for myself (balcony was just a bit pricey to justify for just me). Although I was fully prepared to go it alone, I later found out that a classmate was looking for a roomie. So, now, my costs were cut in half and I was rooming with Mindy Siegel.

I was looking forward to Cuba; Photo: Carnival CL
When Mindy joined, I attempted to upgrade to a balcony room. Oddly, I couldn’t get Carnival to upgrade me and I couldn’t get a consistent reason why. Perhaps my class of service wasn’t allowed to upgrade. Perhaps they were sold out. I talked to multiple people and only got as far as a waiting list. 

Meanwhile, I signed up for a day tour and a night at the Tropicana nightclub.

Then, our delightful President screwed it all up: the Trump administration banned cruise ships to Cuba as a punitive measure against the island’s communist government.

In May 2016, President Barack Obama’s administration opened up cruise and educational travel from the U.S. to Cuba. Cruises became very popular because they provided a simple, one-stop, guaranteed-legal way to travel.

New itinerary; Chart: Carnival CL
When Trump pulled the plug, an estimated 800,000 cruise passenger bookings were affected, including us. 

Carnival offered us a full refund if we cancelled or a $100 shipboard credit if we stayed on the trip, which was redirected to Grand Cayman and Cozumel.

I was a bit disappointed in the destinations; they seemed more “party” cruise than educational and, Grand Cayman is one of the few places in the Caribbean I have already been. Plus, because they were farther away (we had to cruise around Cuba), the stops were shorter. 

But, I decided to go for my original reasons: to spend time with friends. Most of the group decided to go, as well.

With the change, I was able to upgrade to a balcony at, unfortunately, a bit more than we really wanted to spend. But, then, Carnival advertised a big sale and, with one quick phone call, I cut our cost almost in half! Now, it was looking pretty good.

Putt-putt golf with classmates Suz and Andy
So, off I went to the Caribbean with 14 classmates and six of their spouses, friends and/or siblings. No, I didn’t go to a small school; actually, our graduating class had about 680 members. 

But, over the years the diehard reunion group has whittled itself down and this cruise was most of those people. 

Many are actually on the “reunion committee,” which has now become a social group that gets together often in our hometown of Clearwater, Florida.

Pre-Cruise Birding
I flew to Florida two days in advance so that I could visit my mother-in-law and get in a little birding. It was cold and rainy (I mean, November … you get what you get), but I managed a nice walk with my friend (and fellow cruiser) Donna Wilson at Brooker Creek Preserve in Tarpon Springs. 

Because it was foggy, the place had a primordial look.


Spanish moss and interesting lichen
I didn’t get any NEW birds, but I did get some nice shots of Black-Crowned Night Herons, adult …

Adult Black-Crowned Night Heron
… and Juvenile …

Juvenile Black-Crowned Night Heron
Anhingas …

Anhinga ready to take off
A Blue-gray Gnatcatcher …

Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Tufted Titmouses (Titmice? Who knows?)

Tufted Titmouse
And, a favorite, Pileated Woodpeckers …

Pileated Woodpecker
After our walk, Donna went home and I took a quick trip to John Chesnut Senior Park in Palm Harbor, where I saw baby American Alligators …

Baby Alligators!
Northern Cardinals …

Northern Cardinal
Red-winged Blackbirds …

Female Red-winged Blackbird
A Black-and-white Warbler …

Black-and-white Warbler
More Anhingas …

Anhinga showing off its wing feathers
And, a Palm Warbler …

Female Palm Warbler
Oh, and by my hotel, I got some great shots of Limpkins (the only one I had ever seen before was hiding deep in the plants along the water’s edge in the Everglades) ...

Limpkin
Cruise
Carnival Paradise; Photo: Carnival Cruise Line
But, let’s talk about the cruise. We went on the Carnival Paradise, a “Fantasy-class” (wha ……?) cruise ship built by Kværner Masa-Yards in Helsinki, Finland. 

It took two years to build and was christened in 1998 by, interestingly, journalist Paula Zahn. 

It can hold 2,124 passengers, which, to my mind is about 2,000 too many.

The décor is, well, a cross between a brothel (well, what I think a brothel might look like) and The Shining with a little Mardi Gras thrown in. 

Coincidence?
In other words, pretty darn hideous. 

What is this look they were going for?
The room was tiny. I knew cruise ship rooms were small, but this was smaller than any I had been in before. And, instead of an easily “seeable” balcony, it wasn’t particularly visible behind the door and the heavily draped window. 

Separating the bed into twins makes the space even tighter
But, I found the bed very comfy (Mindy didn't) and there was a great supply of very hot water in the bathroom (which, by cruise ship standards, was an OK size; I have seen smaller). The balcony, while small, was nice, with two chairs. I didn’t spend a lot of time out there, but it was nice to be able to go out when I wanted to.

I will say that boarding was pretty smooth for a big ship.

Ship boarding is from a huge terminal
I Ubered from the airport. The new rental car pavilion at Tampa International Airport is very nice and it is reachable by tram rather than bus. No waiting outside, no hoisting luggage, no braving weather. Just very nice.

Carnival seemed to have the dockside boarding process down to a science, but once we arrived on the ship, all instruction ceased. It wasn’t clear when we could access our room or where to go. I had to seek someone out to get an answer. The impression I got is that many people are frequent cruisers, so it is assumed everyone knows what to do.

But, after a bit of flailing about and meeting up with my group (which I had seen the night before at a pre-cruise party at Betsy and David Walker’s house), it was, as they say, “smooth sailing.”

The gang the night before departure
In fact, the ocean was very smooth, so there was no issue with sea sickness. Nor was there any rain except for a small sprinkle in Grand Cayman.

Chillin' by the pool
While on the ship, we ate meals in either the buffet-style restaurant (so-so and crazy crowded), Guy Fieri’s Burger Joint by the ridiculously over-crowded pool (yummy burgers and fries), or in one of the dining rooms where our group had two assigned tables (so really good options). 

The food was OK, but nothing remarkable. And, seldom hot. No big deal; it’s just that one of the myths about cruising is extraordinary food. It’s not; it’s just all included.

Departing
As we left Tampa, we got a beautiful view of Davis Island and the port of Tampa. And, it struck me that after living in the Tampa Bay area for nearly 24 years, I was never on the water in the harbor. 

Davis Island with Tampa in the background
We passed MacDill Air Force Base ...

MacDill AFB
... and then – about an astounding two hours later – we passed slowly under the Sunshine Skyway Bridge just as the sun was setting. I gotta say, this was perhaps the most spectacular part of the trip.

Sunshine Skyway Bridge
The Bob Graham Sunshine Skyway Bridge is a cable-stayed bridge spanning lower Tampa Bay connecting St. Petersburg  to Terra Ceia north of Bradenton. The current bridge opened in 1987 and is the second Sunshine Skyway on the site.

A picture I took from land a few years ago
The original two-lane bridge opened in 1954 and a second matching span opened in 1971 to increase the traffic to four lanes. In 1980, there were two major disasters within a few months. In January, a Coast Guard cutter collided with a tanker near the bridge and sank, killing 23 crew members, most of whom were trapped in the ship. In May, a freighter collided with a bridge support during a sudden microburst squall, collapsing 1,200 feet of the southbound span and killing 35 people when vehicles (including a bus) plunged 150 feet into the bay. 

Close call for one driver; Photo: Tampa Bay Times
One person survived when his truck first bounced off the freighter, partially breaking the fall. I was working in St. Petersburg at the time and remember both events very clearly, since I traveled over the Skyway frequently for my job and was lucky to not be on the bridge for the May incident. 

Within a few years, the damaged span was demolished, the surviving span was partially demolished and converted into a fishing pier, and a new bridge was built. 

The new bridge's main span is 50 percent wider than the old bridge. The piers of the main span and the approaches for 1⁄4 mile in either direction are surrounded by large concrete barriers, called "dolphins" that protect the bridge piers from impact should another ship stray from the channel. Fortunately, that has not happened.

The bridge is gorgeous at night
In 2005, the bridge was officially renamed to honor former Governor of Florida and then U.S. Senator Bob Graham, who presided over bridge design and most of the construction. 

Everyone, however, just calls it the Sunshine Skyway or the Skyway.

Graham was inspired to suggest the current design by a visit to France, where he saw a similar cable-stayed bridge, the Brotonne Bridge.

This past year, a lighting projected funded by the bridge’s $1.50 toll, was completed. More than 1,800 LEDs along 1.7 miles of the bridge cycle through a variety of colors. It is stunning to watch, especially as you sail toward and under it.

The lights change colors and can be reprogrammed depending on the season
Because the bridge is now part of the Interstate system (I-275), pedestrians and bicycles are prohibited and motorists cannot stop for any non-emergency, including sightseeing.

The Skyway's low bridge clearance prevents vessels larger than 180 feet high from using the Port Tampa Bay terminals. When we passed under, it certainly looked as though we wouldn’t clear the span.

Whew!
Once we cleared the bridge, we were officially out of Tampa Bay and on our way.

A look back as we depart
And, once out of the bay, we saw almost nothing except water and sky until we passed Cuba on our approach to Grand Cayman. 

Cuba!
I had hoped for lots of birds and, perhaps, Dolphins or even Whales. With the exception to two Brown Boobies ...

Two Brown Boobies flanking our ship
... scores of Flying Fish ... 

There were hundreds, but the big groups were hard to photograph
... and one bird that looked out of place on the open ocean ...

I have no idea what this is
... we saw nothing, although I heard some folks saw Dolphins in Tampa Bay.

The Brown Boobies were fun ... 

The ship afforded good views
... as they flew ...

A very striking bird
... and dipped ...

Lots of action as we cruised by
... and took off again ...

The Boobies were the only pelagic birds we saw
And, even though photographing them was challenging, so were the Flying Fish ...

Skipping along the surface
I wrote about Flying Fish in my Maui blog (interestingly, I also saw a Brown Booby in Maui; maybe they eat Flying Fish!).

Two Flying Fish
As I mentioned, we did finally spot some land as we passed between Cozumel and Cuba on our way to Grand Cayman. Not a particularly exciting view, but a glimpse of Cuba. 

It would have been easy not to notice the land
I had seen Cuba before when flying over it on my way to Grand Cayman in 2001.

Grand Cayman
Donna and me in Grand Cayman in 2001
Ironically, one of the replacement destinations was one of the few places I had been in the Caribbean (in addition to Atlantis in the Bahamas). I visited Grand Cayman with best friend Donna, who was also on this cruise, in 2001. That was a land-based trip.

Grand Cayman is the largest of the three Cayman Islands and the location of the territory's capital, George Town, which is where we stopped (we did not dock; rather we were tendered into port). 

Map: Google Maps
Grand Cayman, 75 miles southwest of Little Cayman and 90 miles southwest of Cayman Brac, encompasses 76 percent of the territory's land mass and 95 percent of the population. It is 22 miles long with its widest point being eight miles wide. Elevation ranges from sea level to 60 feet.

There are just under 600 banks and trust companies in Grand Cayman, including 43 of the 50 largest banks in the world. Because of this large financial presence on the island, banking, investments and insurance drive the economy, followed by tourism. It is an Overseas Territory of Britain and any hint that Britain may wish to divest itself of the islands is met with strong opposition.


Another shot from back in 2001
Christopher Columbus saw the Cayman Islands in 1503 on his fourth voyage to the New World and named them Las Tortugas because of the large number of sea turtles.

In 1586, when Sir Francis Drake's fleet of 23 ships stopped for two days in Grand Cayman, he recorded that the island was covered in crocodiles, alligators, iguanas and turtles. Soon, ships sailing through the Caribbean started stopping off in the Cayman Islands to stock up on turtle meat. So many turtles were hunted over the next few hundred years that their population has been severely depleted. Although I saw lots of fish while snorkeling, I didn’t see any turtles.

A variety of fish from my snorkeling trip
The Islands remained uninhabited until the 1660s, primarily because of pirates. Throughout the 18th century, some of the most infamous pirates of the Caribbean, including Blackbeard, frequently stopped off at the Grand Caymans to repair damaged ships and stock up on water and turtle meat.

Donna,Turtle Centre, 2001
The Islands were not permanently settled until the 1730s, when the first land grants were made to settlers from Jamaica and to deserters from Oliver Cromwell's army. The new residents survived on farming and trading turtle meat with passing ships. 

An 1802 census recorded the population of Grand Cayman at just 933, roughly half of whom were of British descent, the other half being slaves of African descent.

In 1794, ten merchant ships foundered on the reef at Gun Bay in the East End of Grand Cayman and local residents rescued every crew member. 

Allegedly, King George III expressed his gratitude by declaring that the people of the Cayman Islands should forever be free from taxation and war conscription. Although the shipwrecks are documented, there is no evidence of the royal decree. More likely, residents weren’t taxed because they were so poor.  

Shipbuilding, seafaring and subsistence farming have long been mainstays of the economy, with many locals leaving for jobs on neighboring islands, Nicaragua, Honduras or the southern United States.

Fishing is still a major occupation
A major factor held back early development of the Cayman Islands was mosquitoes, which have now been reduced to a level that makes progress possible. We didn’t encounter any.

A carnival was in progress when we visited in 2001
In 1953, Grand Cayman's first airfield, hospital and commercial bank opened. A few hotels also opened in the early 1950s and 1957 welcomed the first commercial dive center. A few years later the government enacted legislation designed to take advantage of the absence of taxation and encourage the growth of banking. Now the Cayman Islands are a major tourism and recreational dive destination and an international finance center. The population is now over 60,000.

Snorkeling selfie
When I visited Grand Cayman, I was impressed with the snorkeling, so I signed up for a snorkeling excursion at the wreckage of the USS Kittiwake, a rescue submarine launched in 1945 and decommissioned in 1994. She was transferred in 2008 to the government of the Cayman Islands to use to form a new artificial reef off Seven Mile Beach.

Three other classmates – my roommate Mindy and Jeff Wycoff and Leslie Miedema – also went snorkeling. 


Mindy
Other people did a variety of things, ranging from visiting the Grand Cayman Turtle Centre (Donna and I went there in 2001) to just walking around.

The Kittiwake
Our first snorkeling stop was the Kittiwake, which was originally placed at 30 feet below the surface, but was moved by a hurricane and now sits on its side at 70 feet. Although it has some growth on it, it still has a long way to go before it actually becomes a reef.

The water was reasonably calm and clear and the temperature was perfect, so it was nice snorkeling. 

Very pleasant snorkeling
Because of the depth of the ship, most of the fish were pretty far down, but we did encounter some and I was able to photograph the entire length of the Kittiwake. Click here to see the video.

At the far end of the ship, there was a huge school of Creole Wrasses, brilliant purple and green to the eye but not so much on video. I hurried back to the boat to switch to my camera from my GoPro to get pictures, but didn’t have enough time to make it back to get pictures.


Creole Wrasses
Our next stop was “Cheeseburger Reef,” which, oddly sits right in the middle of the area where the big ships dock and right next to the small boat channel. I don’t want to even think about how many pollutants are in the water. Why is it named “Cheeseburger?” Is it a strange coral formation? Nope. It’s because there is a Burger King on the nearby shore that used to dump its garbage in the bay, attracting fish!

Not the secluded bay I expected!
Here, the reef was closer to the surface and I saw a great many more fish (probably still looking for some old buns and fries, maybe even onion rings). 

Cheeseburger Reef
Still, no turtles. There were also lots of Laughing Gulls and one Magnificent Frigatebird, but I didn’t have my long lens with me.

After snorkeling, Mindy, Leslie, Jeff and I had a yummy lunch at Rackam’s right on the gorgeous turquoise water. 

Rackam's (that's Leslie on the left and Jeff reaching for his drink)
After lunch, they encouraged us to throw leftover fries and bread to the Tarpon that were patrolling the shore. Seems ecologically and biologically wrong to me (but we did it).

Atlantic Tarpon waiting for a snack
There were also a number of Ruddy Turnstones waiting for scraps as well.

Ruddy Turnstones (the one on the right seems to be levitating)
After lunch, we had to get back to the ship for departure. That is my biggest complaint, we had sailed for a day and a half to get there and had really just a few hours in Grand Cayman. As it was, we never ventured more than 20 feet from shore. So, we didn’t really experience the Island, just the water ...

Cheeseburger Reef
Mexico
The water factor was even more dramatic when we got to Mexico the next day. Our next stop was Cozumel, Mexico, which is island in the Caribbean Sea about 10 miles off the eastern coast of Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, opposite Playa del Carmen. 

Playa del Carmen
Our destination; Map: Google Maps
Cozumel is separated from the mainland by Cozumel Channel and is close to the Yucatán Channel. 

The name was derived from the Mayan "Cuzamil" or "Ah Cuzamil Peten,” meaning "island of swallows.” 

About 30 miles long and 9.9 miles wide, Cozumel is Mexico's largest third-largest island. The majority of the island's population lives in the town of San Miguel on the western shore.  

I spent only a few minutes on Cozumel, because I had signed up to visit the Mayan ruins of Tulúm, which are on the mainland south of Playa del Carmen. I had contemplated snorkeling again because Cozumel is famous for its reefs, but I wanted variety.


A good view of the ruins
I also have heard that the reefs are far less impressive than they used to be because of damage from the deep-water cruise ship pier and two Category 4 hurricanes, Emily and Wilma, in 2005.

The Tulúm excursion was a good choice. I found it interesting that, with more than 2,000 people on the ship, only 27 opted to go to Tulúm. Only one classmate, Suz Priest, went with me.

The area is very green and tropical
We got there by a ferry, which we boarded directly from the ship. We had been warned that the passage could be rough, but it was a gorgeous day and it started out a little rocky, but fine. I got my cameras out and looked for wildlife. 

I didn't see much wildlife, but there were sailboats
The swells increased and we started getting hit by spray, a little here and there. It was too rough to find a new seat or wrangle my cameras back in the case, so I pulled out my travel towel to protect the cameras. That was a good move, because, by the time we docked in Playa del Carmen, we were soaked. I mean, soaked. I never completely dried during the five hours we were on land.

Suz and I both got very wet (notice the man with the towel behind Suz)
From Playa del Carmen, we took a small bus to Tulúm, maybe 30 minutes or so away. Our guide, Juan, briefed us along the way and then conducted a short walking tour when we arrived. Juan was of Mayan descent.

Juan, out tour guide
Tulúm is the site of a pre-Columbian Mayan walled city that served as a major port for Coba in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. The ruins are situated on 39-foot-tall cliffs along the east coast of the Yucatán Peninsula on the Caribbean Sea.

The cliff-top setting is spectacular
A small building
Tulúm was one of the last cities built and inhabited by the Maya; it was at its height between the 13th and 15th centuries and managed to survive about 70 years after the Spanish began occupying Mexico. Old World diseases brought by the Spanish settlers resulted in very high fatalities, disrupting the society and eventually causing the city to be abandoned.

Tulúm had access to both land and sea routes, making it an important trade hub, especially for obsidian. From depictions in murals and other works around the site, Tulúm appears to have been an important site for the worship of the Diving God.

The site might have been called Zama, meaning City of Dawn, because it faces the sunrise. 

Tulúm is the Yucatán Mayan word for fence, wall or trench. The walls surrounding the site allowed the Tulúm fort to be defended against invasions. 


Tulúm means wall or fence; the city is surrounded by a wall
Tulúm has architecture typical of Maya sites on the east coast of the Yucatán Peninsula, featuring a step running around the base of the building, which sits on a low substructure. Doorways are narrow with columns used as support; walls flare out and have two sets of molding near the top. Tulúm resembles what can be found in the nearby Chichen Itza, but on a much smaller scale.

Multiple views of the ruins and grounds
Tulúm was protected on one side by steep sea cliffs and on the landward side by a 1,300-foot-long wall that averaged about 10-17 feet in height and 26 feet thick. The part of the wall that ran the width of the site was slightly shorter and only about 560 feet on both sides. Constructing this massive wall would have taken an enormous amount of energy and time, which shows how important defense was to the Maya when they chose this site. 

Columns guard a doorway
On the southwest and northwest corners there are small structures that have been identified as watch towers, showing again how well defended the city was. There are five narrow gateways in the wall with two each on the north and south sides and one on the west. Near the northern side of the wall a small cenote (a natural sinkhole filled with water) provided the city with fresh water. It is this impressive wall that makes Tulúm one of the most well-known fortified sites of the Maya.

These tourists are viewing the ruins from the water; it was probably pretty, but rough
Among the more spectacular buildings at Tulúm is the Temple of the Frescoes that was used as an observatory for tracking the movements of the sun. Niched figurines of the Diving God decorate the facade of the temple. This god is also depicted in the Temple of the Diving God in the central precinct of the site. Above the entrance in the western wall, a stucco figure of the Diving God is still preserved, giving the temple its name.

Also in the central precinct is the 25-foot-tall Castillo, which was built on a previous building that was colonnaded and had a beam and mortar roof. The lintels in the upper rooms have serpent motifs carved into them. 

Carving adorns some walls; the original brilliant paint and obsidian is worn away
A small shrine used as a beacon for incoming canoes marks a break in the barrier reef opposite the site. A cove and landing beach perfect for canoes may have been one of the reasons the Maya founded the city, which later became a prominent trading port.

The beautiful beach was an access point
Both coastal and land routes converged at Tulúm. Copper artifacts from the Mexican highlands have been found near the site, as have flint artifacts, ceramics, incense burners and gold objects from all over the Yucatán. Salt and textiles were among some of the goods brought by traders to Tulúm by sea that would be dispersed inland. Typical exported goods included feathers and copper objects that came from inland sources.

A fleet of boats moored nearby
The Tulúm archaeological site is relatively compact compared with many other Maya sites in the vicinity and is one of the best-preserved coastal Maya sites. Its proximity to the modern tourism developments along the Mexican Caribbean coastline and its short distance from Cancún and the surrounding "Riviera Maya" has made it a popular Maya tourist site in the Yucatán. The third most-visited archaeological site in Mexico, after Teotihuacan and Chichen Itza, Tulúm had 2.2 million visitors in 2017.

This building has some restored thatch
We had to walk through a small tourist area with shops and restaurants and then down a long boulevard to reach the ruins.We had to return the same way, but started out going in the wrong direction (toward Belize) because out guide's instructions skipped one important turn.

The hashtag seems out of place near ancient ruins
Before we even reached the city’s walls, we encountered an iguana – specifically a Black Spiny-Tailed Iguana. 

We saw a Black Spiny-Tailed Iguana almost immediately
That was pretty exciting. By the time we left, we had probably seen 100 – on the lawns, on the walls, on the roofs, on the cliffs ...

Iguanas were perched everywhere
Big ones ... 

Two very large Iguanas
... and little ones ...

Striking a pose
Lots and lots of iguanas.

A Black Spiny-Tailed Iguana enjoying the ocean view
White-Nosed Coatimundi
Also, just as we arrived at the ruins, we saw a White-Nosed Coatimundi. I had seen one once before in southern Arizona, but didn’t get a photo then. So, this was a real treat.

Also called Coatis, Coatimundis are diurnal mammals native to South America, Central America, Mexico and the extreme southwestern United States. They are 13 to 27 inches from head to the base of the tail (the size of a big housecat), but appear much bigger because their glorious tails (of which they appear very proud) are as long as or longer than their bodies. 

Males are almost twice as large as females and have large, sharp canine teeth. I assume the one we saw inside the walls was a male. 

Later, as we were leaving, we saw about five more, including some young ones. But, they dashed across our path into the shady mangroves too fast to photograph.

Looking for bugs
The Coatimundi has a slender head with an elongated, flexible, slightly upward-turned nose, small ears, dark feet and a long, non-prehensile tail used for balance and signaling. They often hold the tail erect; using it to keep troops together in tall vegetation. The tip of the tail can be moved slightly on its own, as is the case with cats, but it is not prehensile.

The upright tail is a characteristic of the Coatimundi
Related to raccoons, Coatimundis have non-retractable claws and can rotate their ankles beyond 180°, allowing them to descend trees head-first. They can also rotate their snouts up to 60° in any direction.

Their long snouts are very flexible
Coatis are omnivores; their diet consists mainly of tarantulas, fruit, lizards, rodents, small birds, birds' eggs and crocodile eggs.

When provoked, or for defense, Coatimundis can be fierce fighters; their strong jaws, sharp canine teeth, and fast scratching paws, along with a tough hide sturdily attached to the underlying muscles, make it very difficult for potential predators to seize them. They can carry rabies.

Walking along the wall
Seeing one so casually feeding right in front of us was very cool.

Birds on the ruins
I am glad that I took time to photograph this one (even walking away from the tour for a few minutes to get better shots), because I didn't see it after our guided tour was over and I didn't see any more Coatimundis inside the walls, either. And, the ones I saw on the walk back were in deep, dark mangroves.

After our guided tour, we did have a lot of time to walk around. So, of course, in addition to photographing the ruins, I also looked for wildlife.

I knew birding would be tough on this cruise because of the tight schedule. 

However, I still had hoped to see lots of exotic birds because Mexico is home to many colorful and interesting ones. 

But, that didn't happen. 

There were some birds. Not lots, but a variety, including a few lifers for me. Most were fairly mundane, however. No bright feathers or crazy crests or tails.

And, as I mentioned, I saw lots and lots of Black Spiny-Tailed Iguanas.

Among the birds I saw were Royal Terns …

Royal Tern
Yellow Warblers …

Yellow Warbler
A Yellow-throated Warbler …

Yellow-throated Warbler
Great-tailed Grackles …

A female Great-tailed Grackle
And, a few lifers, including Melodious Blackbirds (I thought they were Grackles; I would have taken more pictures had I realized they were a different bird) …

A flock of melodious Blackbirds that was interacting with Great-Tailed Grackles
Tropical Kingbirds …

Tropical Kingbirds look much like Western and Cassin's Kingbirds
Tropical Mockingbirds …

Tropical Mockingbirds are much lighter than Northern Mockingbirds
And, Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures …

The Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture is somewhat rare
Oh, and we also saw a huge termite nest in a tree ...

The nest was about three feet long
Me with lots of cameras and bad hair
Even though it was very hot and sticky (and I was damp and salt-crusted from the ferry dousing), it was a very enjoyable excursion. 

I have always wanted to see Mayan ruins. Tulúm was a nice introduction.

The entire tour lasted about seven hours. We were promised a light snack. What we got was a tiny bottle of water and a small bag of chips. 

I am glad I brought water and Suz brought some peanut butter crackers. Fortunately, it was too hot to get terribly hungry. And, we were able to buy a diet coke when we went back to hashtag land to wait for our bus.

Our ferry ride back was calmer and we sat inside (it was a different boat).  So, we stayed dry.

Instead of going to the ship, this ferry docked in Cozumel and we had just enough time to walk off the ferry down a long pier, cross a courtyard and then walk down another pier to our ship. So, I was technically in Cozumel.

Then, we were off.

Definitely not enough time on shore. I would have like to actually see Cozumel, but, as I said, shore time wasn't a hallmark of this cruise. Still, Tulúm was the highlight.


Palms and ruins
Back Onboard
Now, we had a full day of sailing back to Tampa.

The cruise back was equally uneventful. We hung out by the pool and watched an ice-carving demonstration.


Poolside fun
We had a fun game evening, organized by Debby Infinger, where money was won (but not by me!). 

Left, Debby Infinger; Right, Susan Young and Donna Wilson
The CHS gang
And, we managed to get everyone together for a group pic. It took two evenings and lots of texting, but it happened.

I cannot gloss over how  extraordinary it is to have such great bonds with people I have known for 50 years or more. 

That's just awesome. And, it certainly made the trip special.

As I said, I am not a big fan of big-ship cruises, but would I go again? 

Yep, if it is a group friends thing. 

Maybe we could pick another destination (which probably means leaving out of the east coast of Florida because the Tampa departures don’t go many places). 

And, that is assuming Carnival can stop running into its own ships!


Two Carnival ships collided in Cozumel on Dec. 20
So, the trip was over. The departure process was very smooth and I was quickly on my way for a lovely day with brother- and sister-in-law Craig and Cheri before heading back to Colorado.


Trip date: November 15-24, 2019 

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