Sunday, March 10, 2019

Maui #6 -- Birding


Endemic 'I'iwi, the highlight of our birding trip
Despite its tropical climate and ocean shores, Maui does not have a large number of birds and it has few endemic species. Many of the early birds are extinct, victims of feather-harvesting and the introduction of non-native predators including feral cats, Barn Owls and Mongooses. The most notable non-extinct endemics of Maui are the 'Akohekohe and the Maui Parrotbill. Both are critically endangered and are found only in alpine forest on the windward slopes of Haleakalā. You can visit the area only as part of a hike led once a month by The Nature Conservancy to the Waikamoi Preserve in Haleakalā National Park. Unfortunately, no hikes were held while I was there (and I probably couldn’t have gotten reservations anyway). And, I hear that even on these trips, seeing those birds is rare.

But, there are “seeable” endemic birds and introduced birds I had never seen before, so I wanted to go birding. 

I found a tour and Scott gave it to me for Christmas. The trip was a day-long birding tour with Explore Maui Nature. 

There were five of us plus our guide, Beth. We traveled to the summit and Hosmer’s Grove in Haleakalā National Park, the Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge and The King Kamehameha Golf Course. 

Our group at the Haleakalā summit
During my two visits – both before and after the birding tour – I visited most of these places several times. And, I saw many birds while not on the tour. 

In this post, I will concentrate mainly on the birds I saw that I have not already discussed in my previous posts. And, I will cover more birds later. Please note that the photos of the birds in this post may not have actually been taken while on the birding tour. I don’t think the reader cares WHEN I took the pictures over the roughly 30 days between my first arrival and my second departure. 

I think it's more important to represent the birds and give accurate information about WHERE I saw them.

Beth picked us up in Wailea in her very nice mini-tour bus and we headed straight for Haleakalā National Park. Almost immediately, we saw, but didn't stop for, our first bird, the Gray Francolin.

Gray Francolin
On my first trip to Maui, I saw four Gray Francolins and photographed zero – two were running along the road as we set out on the birding trip and two were in a residential area in 
Kīhei. Every time one scurried away before I snapped a picture, I was told, “don’t worry, they are everywhere.” They aren’t. But, on my second visit, I managed to see and photograph two of them. One was at my hotel and one was on a beach!

I am not sure why it is called "gray," it looks rufous to me!
Formerly called the Grey Partridge, this introduced bird from the Indian subcontinent
is a medium-sized Francolin and resembles a large Quail and some of the Francolins I saw in Africa.

Windless day on Haleakalā
Haleakalā 
It was a glorious morning, which was fortunate because it had been nasty up on Haleakalā during the storms on the previous days. The Park is notoriously cold and windy ("cold and windy" in the opinion of Hawai'ians) because it sits more than 10,000 feet above Maui's sunny beaches. But, on our visit, it was calm – very, very calm – and it never dropped below 40 degrees. I think it's a rare day that the flag doesn't even flutter.

As we approached the park entrance we saw a couple of Maui ‘Amakihis, of which I got only one so-so photo. My first endemic bird!!! I will discuss the Amakihi in a moment. 


My first glimpse of a Maui ‘Amakihi
We also allegedly saw a Eurasian Skylark, but I am not even sure I saw it, so I did not count it as a “seen” bird. Fortunately, that was remedied when I returned to Haleakalā with Caty. 

'Apapane
But, the first real sighting of a “new” bird was the endemic Hawai’ian ‘Apapane, of which we saw only one flitting around the main Haleakalā National Park Visitor Center, unfortunately most of the time in a deeply shaded flowering bush.

My first encounter with an 'Apapane
The feathers of this brilliant red honeycreeper were once used to adorn the capes, helmets and feather leis of Hawaiian nobility (the Ali'i). This comes up a few times and is an interesting way to adorn clothing  but, remember Hawai'i has no native fur-bearing land animals.

This painting shows the Ali'i in feather-adorned capes and helmets
’Apapane generally form small flocks when foraging through the canopies of ʻōhiʻa lehua trees, drinking nectar from the flowers and simultaneously pollinating them. But, alas, we saw just one bird on that first visit, not a flock. That's sad, because I saw ebird reports of flocks of up to 50 birds.

'Apapane
They never forage on the forest floor. When flowering of ʻōhiʻa is low and if not part of a flock, ’Apapane will be chased away from flowers by more aggressive competing birds such as the ʻAkohekohe. 

Male ’Apapane are known for singing, with six different calls and about ten different song patterns.

The major traits of an adult ’Apapane are a bright crimson top and back; white bottom and under tail; and black wings and legs. 

A unique characteristic is the white undertail coverts which can be seen clearly when the tail is cocked, giving the bird the nick name, “Apa-Panties.”

’Apapane live on Hawaiʻi, Lānaʻi, Kauaʻi, Molokaʻi, Oʻahu and Maui. 

The majority – 86 percent – can be found on Hawai’i, especially in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. The next largest population is found on Maui; it is made up of 110,000 individuals, most of them found in protected forests on the slopes of Haleakalā.

'Apapane
’Apapane are delicate birds. They are highly susceptible to the avian malaria blood parasite, which causes death by anemia, and to fowlpox, which causes wart-like lesions to form around the bird's eyes, beak, legs or feet, inhibiting feeding, seeing or perching. Most are found at an elevation above 4,100 feet, keeping them away from predators and deadly disease-carrying mosquitoes (interesting fact: non-native pigs contribute to the avian malaria problem by creating wallows that fill with water and become mosquito breeding grounds). 

Our guide told us that recently some 'Apapane had been migrating to lower elevations on Maui, leading biologists to think a small portion of the population is becoming resistant to malaria. 

Volunteers have been planting native bushes and trees along their path to encourage the birds to spread out.

When Caty and I visited Haleakalā, we saw 'Apapane all along the road at mid-elevations. No matter how many times I stopped, I never got even a bad photo. But I saw lots of them.  Caty managed to snag one photo in Hosmer's Grove while I was looking elsewhere for birds.


'Apapane; Photo: Caty Stevens
Northern Mockingbird
While trying to photograph the elusive ’Apapane, I turned around to see – gloriously perched in bright sunlight – a Northern Mockingbird. 

This was no big deal to the five people on the tour – we were all from the Mainland. 

But our guide, Beth, said they weren’t all that common on Hawai’i, so it was a special sighting. And, it was the only one I saw.

Chukar
After our encounter with the ’Apapane, we continued up to the summit area, stopping in a hikers’ parking lot in search of Nēnē, which were not there at that time. We pulled into the Summit Visitor Center Parking lot and were greeted by a small flock of Chukar scurrying across the concrete and into the lava field.


Chukar toes the line in the Summit parking lot
A member of the pheasant family, the Chukar was introduced to Hawai’i for hunting.

Its name comes from its noisy “chuck-chuck-chukar-chukar” song. The Chukar’s native range is Asia, including Israel, Lebanon, Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan and the inner ranges of the Western Himalayas from India to Nepal. Its habitat in the native range is dry rocky open hillsides with grass or scattered scrub or cultivation. It is not unusual to see Chukars at high altitudes. The summit of Haleakalā is 10,023 feet.

Chukar
When disturbed, Chukars generally run away rather than fly. 

If really necessary, they will fly a short distance, often down a slope on rounded wings, calling loudly immediately after alighting. 

Before young Chukars fly for the first time, they use wing-assisted incline-running as a transition to adult flight. 

This behavior is found in several bird species, but has been extensively studied in Chukar chicks as a model to explain the evolution of avian flight.

The Chukar is the national bird of Iraq and of Pakistan and, in North Indian and Pakistani culture and mythology, it symbolizes intense and, often, unrequited, love.

A Chukar leaves the parking area
They are beautiful, if a little bit amusing, birds. Caty and I saw a couple more near the crater when we visited.

We then continued on to the summit, where Beth took the obligatory “I am clawing my way up” photo. 

If I had known the angle, I wouldn't have held my hand up so high! Still ...
This wasn’t a bird stop, rather it was a chance to experience Hawai’i at 10,000 feet, with all the attendant warnings about altitude (phish phish says this Colorado girl) and a pretty stunning view of the Big Island that literally disappeared before our eyes as we climbed to the observation deck.

The Big island is behind those clouds
I will cover more about Haleakalā in my next post, trying to stick strictly to birds here.

Hosmer's Grove
After the summit, we headed to the best (easily accessible) birding spot in the park – Hosmer’s Grove. This area has a half-mile-long nature trail that weaves through an old grove of non-native pine, spruce, cedar and eucalyptus trees introduced by Ralph Hosmer in the 1920s in a failed attempt to develop a lumber industry. 

Only 20 of Hosmer’s 86 introduced species survived: the soil was unsuitable for many and Haleakalā’s high winds blew others over. A few thrived, escaping from Hosmer's experimental forest. 

The Mexican weeping pine, Monterey pine and eucalyptus have become aggressive invaders and are now recognized threats to the native ecosystems within Haleakalā National Park. I will talk about this more in my next post.

'I'iwi on a māmane plant
'I'iwi
We were not disappointed in Hosmer's birds. Immediately upon entering the parking lot, we came upon several ‘I’iwis hopping around in the bushes, drinking in nectar as fast as they could.

The ‘I’iwi (pronounced ee-EE-vee) is, by far, my favorite Hawai’ian bird. 

I mean, just look at it …

Also called the Scarlet Honeycreeper, the ‘I’iwi is a "hummingbird-niched" species of Hawaiian honeycreeper because it can hover, much like a hummingbird. 

It is the most plentiful species of its group, many of which are endangered or extinct. In fact, it is the third most common native land bird in the Hawai’ian Islands, living on Hawaiʻi and Kauaʻi and, in small colonies, on Molokaʻi and Oʻahu. The total island population of 350,000 is declining, primarily because of habitat destruction, replacement of native vegetation with non-native plants and a high susceptibility to disease, including fowlpox, avian malaria and avian influenza.

The 'I'iwi's decurved bill and legs are bright orange
The adult Iʻiwi is mostly scarlet, with black wings and tail and a long, curved salmon-colored bill used primarily for drinking nectar. Younger birds have golden plumage with more spots and ivory bills – I didn’t (to my knowledge) see any of them.

May be a juvenile or may just have pollen on it
Like the ‘Apapane, the 'Iʻiwi was prized for its feathers, which were used to decorate cloaks and helmets for the Ali'i. 

The 'Iʻiwi's long bill assists it to extract nectar from the flowers of Hawai'ian lobelioids, which have decurved corollas. Starting in 1902, lobelioids declined dramatically and the 'Iʻiwi shifted to nectar from the blossoms of ʻōhiʻa lehua. 

They also eat small arthropods.

‘I’iwis are “altitudinal migrants,” following the progress of flowers as they bloom at increasing altitudes throughout the year. They sometimes fly between the Hawai’ian islands. 

Unfortunately, seeking food at lower elevation exposes them to low-elevation diseases. Therefore, their range is limited.

These are very vocal and very loud birds. The grove is absolutely alive with their calls.

'I'iwi
Maui ‘Amakihi
Down the trail, when we got to the native forest, we saw many more ‘I’iwis and the even-more-tricky-to-photograph Maui ‘Amakihi. Still referred to as the Hawai’i ‘Amakihi by many, is being split off as a separate species shortly.


It took some patience to get a close shot of this Maui 'Amakihi
This yellow-green honeycreeper is found on the Big Island, Molokaʻi and Maui. It formerly occurred on Lānaʻi where it was last seen in 1976. One of the most common honeycreepers, inhabiting all types of habitat on the islands at elevations from sea level to 8,000 feet, it is still tricky to find. 

Maui 'Amakihi leaving the ʻōhiʻa lehua bush
Of all the forest birds native to Hawai'i, the ‘Amakihi has been affected the least by habitat changes because it has developed resistance to disease and because it has a wide diet. 

Amakihi shows us its tongue
It Uses its tubular tongue to drink nectar from flowers. It also eats fruit and hunts for spiders and insects.

We never saw any Maui ‘Alauahios – Hawai’ian Creepers. Beth says they can be seen on the large non-native trees at the beginning of the nature trail, but she sees them only about 10 percent of the time. 

Their coloration is similar to the ‘Amakihi and I saw lots of what I thought were 'Amakihis zipping about , so maybe we did see some … who knows?

When Caty and I went, she may have seen one when she went into the grove before I did, but she didn't get a photo, so we are not sure.

Beth also reported that she heard but did not see two other birds – both introduced species – the Japanese Bush Warbler and the Chinese Hwamei (AKA Melodious Laughing-Thrush). These birds are known for being heard but not seen.

While we picnicked in the picnic/camping area, we photographed the skittish ‘I’iwi and the very-willing-to-pose House Sparrows. 

House Sparrow
Why is it that the easiest to photograph birds on this trip were a Northern Mockingbird and a House Sparrow? Why?

Anyway, on to more birds …

Nēnē
Stopping again at a popular trailhead parking lot, we did see a pair of Nēnēs. Typical geese, they hang out there hoping to snag snacks dropped by hikers. 
Nēnē mate for life and spend most of their time with their life partner.
  
Pair of Nēnēs; almost all the ones I saw were tagged
Also known as the Hawaiian Goose, the Nēnē is the official bird of the state of Hawaiʻi and is exclusively found in the wild on O’ahu, Kauaʻi, Molokai, the Big Island and Maui. With only 2,500 wild birds, it is the rarest goose on earth. 

Still, they are pretty easy to find in Maui. Or so I thought. Scott and I saw quite a few. Caty and I never saw any and that makes me sad. I really wanted her to see one.

It’s a very pretty goose, especially the thick buff-colored feathers on its neck that are furrowed to reveal black skin below.

The Nēnē has a deeply furrowed neck
The Hawaiian name comes from its soft call, a sort of grunt that sounds like nay-nay-nay.

Nēnē resting before begging hikers for snacks
It is thought that the Nēnē evolved from the Canada goose, which most likely arrived on the Hawai'ian islands about 500,000 years ago, shortly after the island of Hawaiʻi was formed.

The Nēnē is the only endemic goose left in the islands. Originally there were eight other species, all of which are now extinct. One was the Giant Hawaiian Goose that stood nearly four feet tall and weighed just under 20 pounds  three to four times as big as today's Nēnēs.

Extinct Hawai'ian Geese with a Nēnē; Painting: Julian P. Hume, Smithsonian Institution
Nēnēs spend most of their time on the ground, but they do fly. We even saw a few airborne one (Beth was delighted, but at the time I didn’t realize that they aren’t often seen flying  I should have taken a picture). 

On the lookout in the Visitor Center parking lot
Nēnē live all over Kaua'i, Hawai'i and Maui in a variety of habitats – shrub, grassland, coastal dunes, lava plains, pastures and golf courses from sea level to almost 8,000 feet. Their feet are less webbed than other geese, an adaptation to Hawai'i's treacherous lava flows.

It is believed that Nēnē were once common, with approximately 25,000 Hawaiian Geese living in Hawaiʻi when Captain James Cook arrived in 1778. 

Hunting and introduced predators, such as small Asian Mongooses, pigs and cats, reduced the population to 30 birds by 1952. 


Nēnēs aren't often seen on water
The species breeds well in captivity, and has been successfully re-introduced. There is concern about inbreeding due to the small initial population of birds.The Nēnē is the only goose species in the Northern Hemisphere to nest during the winter months of October through March.

As we were driving up and down Haleakalā, we searched for the Pueo – Hawaiian Short-Eared Owl – that Beth said is frequently seen in the scrubland on the flanks of the mountain. Alas, no Pueo! Nor did we see any of the feral goats that plague the Park.

We did stop briefly to listen to what must have been a huge flock of Eurasian Skylarks singing in a grove of trees just off the main road at the lower elevations. These birds really understand "heard and not seen."

Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge
Next was Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge, a salt marsh on the south-central coast between Kīhei and Māʻalaea. The Refuge is home to 30 species of waterfowl, shorebirds and migratory ducks. 

In the rainy winter season, high water levels enlarge the freshwater pond to more than 400 acres. By spring, water levels begin dropping and, by summer, the pond shrinks to half its winter size, leaving a salty residue behind. 

This accounts for its name, "Kealia," meaning "salt encrusted place.” Just during the time I was there, I saw wide fluctuation in the water level. 

Kealia Pond from the air
Kealia was once an ancient fishpond supplied with water from the Waikapu Stream in the West Maui Mountains and Kolaloa Gulch originating from Haleakalā. Native Hawaiians may have raised awa (milkfish) and amaʻama (flathead mullet) using a system of ditches and sluice gates to let nearby fish from Māʻalaea Beach into the pond. Beth told us that there has been a problem with modern-day fishermen digging trenches to the ocean in order to draw out small baitfish and attract larger ocean fish. This is illegal, but it goes on and artificially lowers the marsh level. Many locals have gotten away with claiming a native right to do this, but lately, the Park Service is clamping down.

Hawai'ian Stilt in the mudflat area
Towards the west, the area between Kealia and the town of Māʻalaea contains another shallow pond and mudflats that are also used by the birds during the winter and spring flooding. When the mudflats dry out during the summer, the birds move to Kealia Pond. I went to the mudflats first because that is where the seldom-open Visitor Center sits. 

The trails were too, too muddy to go very far, but I did see some Hawai’ian Stilts and Hawai’ian Coots, plus some tracks from feral pigs.

The more popular (and productive) viewing place is a beautiful boardwalk situated between the pond and the beach. You can actually birdwatch and whale watch at the same time. 

Kealia Pond Boardwalk
So, let’s talk about the Kealia Pond birds, which were totally different from those I saw anywhere else.

Hawai'ian Coot
The Hawai'ian Coot looks very much like an American Coot, but it is recognized as a separate bird (perhaps two separate birds) and is endemic to Hawai’i.


The Hawai'ian Coot's Shield is more bulbous than the American Coot's
Also known as the ʻAlae Kea, the Hawai’ian Coot is in the Rail family and has white frontal shield that is a larger and more bulbous than that of the American Coot. Some have red on the shield and a few with almost completely red shields have been observed. Scientists are studying whether the ones with red are actually a separate bird. The Hawai’ian Coot’s legs and giant feet are gray rather than the yellow-green found on American Coots, but they still have the funky pads for which Coot feet are famous.

Hawai'ian Coot
They live in freshwater lakes, freshwater marshes, coastal saline lagoons and water storage areas. 

Hawai'ian Coot
On O’ahu, Molokai, Kaua'i and Maui, the Hawai'ian Coot was previously abundant, but by the 1950s and 1960s, there were fewer than 1,000 birds statewide. Since then, the population has fluctuated from less than 1,000 to over 3,000 and appears to be gradually increasing. The Hawai’ian Coot was federally listed in 1970 as an endangered species, threatened by habitat loss and introduced predators including the Java Mongoose. 

Do you get the idea that introducing the mongoose might have been the WORST idea ever?


Look at those feet!
Hawai’ian Stilt
The next endemic and endangered bird we saw was the Hawai’ian Stilt (Aeʻo or Kukuluaeʻo) – a very pretty and a little bit silly-looking bird. Sometimes classified as a subspecies of the Black-Necked Stilt and sometimes listed as its own species, the Hawai’ian Stilt has more black on its neck and face and it has slightly longer legs than its Mainland cousin. That’s saying something because the Hawai’ian Stilt has among the longest legs of any bird in the world.

Hawai'ian Stilts showing off those long, long legs
Generally found below elevations of 500 feet, the Hawai’ian Stilt occurs locally on all the main Hawai’ian islands, and there are breeding populations on O'ahu, Kaua'i and Maui, where it is fairly common. It is uncommon on Moloka'i and Lānaʻi, and scarce on Hawai'i. Many of Kauai's birds migrate to Ni'ihau during wet winters. Stilts are most often seen in wetlands near the ocean in large groups on ponds, marshes and mudflats.

Hawai'ian Stilts often appear in flocks
Like many of Hawaii's native birds, the Hawai’ian Stilt is facing extensive conservation threats, including loss and degradation of wetland habitat, disease, environmental contaminants and introduced predators including rats, dogs, cats and mongooses. Native predators include the Pueo (Hawai’ian Short-Eared Owl) and the Black-Crowned Night Heron. The Hawai’ian Stilt was a popular game bird until waterbird hunting was banned in Hawaii in 1939.

Hawai'ian Stilts in flight
Conservation programs are protecting populations and breeding grounds, and also establishing additional populations to reduce risk of extinction. The state of Hawai’i and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service have protected a quarter of the state's coastal wetlands.

In researching for the blog, I learned that you can differentiate males from females by the feathers on their backs – males are glossy black and females have a tinge of brown.


Female, left, and male, right
Black-Crowned Night Heron
Black-Crowned Night Herons abound at Kealia Pond; at one point I saw at least 30 in one area.


Black-Crowned Night Heron coming in for a landing
Hunting
These birds are found throughout a large part of the world, but are the ONLY heron found in Hawai’i.

Black-Crowned Night Herons are smaller, stockier and have shorter bills, legs and necks than egrets and "day" herons. 

When resting, they often hunch down, extending their necks in a heron-like pose only when hunting. They stand statue-still at the water's edge – sometimes for very long periods – and wait to ambush prey, including small fish, crustaceans, frogs, aquatic insects, small mammals and small birds. 

They are among seven heron species that use bait to fish. They have been observed tossing buoyant objects into water to attract fish – a rare example of tool use among birds.

With its brilliant red eyes and pearl gray feathers, the Black-Crowned Night Heron is a beautiful bird.

Black-Crowned Night Herons tend to be a bit dramatic
Cattle Egret
Another introduced bird that you see everywhere in Maui is the Cattle Egret.

Cattle Egret
Found in the tropics, subtropics and warm-temperate zones, the Cattle Egret is originally native to parts of Asia, Africa and Europe, but has undergone rapid expansion throughout much of the world in the last century. Most has been natural expansion, but not in Hawai'i. Cattle Egrets were introduced there in 1959 in a failed attempt to control insects in cane fields.

Although often found near bodies of water, Cattle Egrets exploit drier and open habitats more than other heron species. 

Cattle Egret takes off
Their feeding habitats include seasonally inundated grasslands, pastures, farmlands and wetlands. 

They often accompany cattle or other large mammals, catching insects and small vertebrate prey disturbed by these as the big animals walk, hence their name.

Despite superficial similarities in appearance, the Cattle Egret is more closely related to great or typical herons and the great egret than to the majority of smaller egrets.

The positioning of the Cattle Egret's eyes allows for binocular vision during feeding, but because they have adapted to foraging on land, they have lost the ability possessed by their wetland relatives to accurately correct for light refraction, thus making it difficult to hunt fish.

Sanderling
Way off in the distance we saw a number of Sanderlings, the tiny light-colored shore birds that appear on beaches around the world. These long-distance migrants spend their summers in the Arctic and winter in South America, South Europe, Africa, Australia and the U.S. I have never seen them in breeding plumage, when their necks turn red. These ones in Kealia were exceptionally light-colored.

Sanderlings
Sanderlings are often seen running along sandy beaches at the surf’s edge, stopping frequently to pick up small food items. They hunt small crabs and other small invertebrates by plunging their beaks into the sand at random, consuming whatever they find. In Maui, I saw them only at Kealia and not on the beach. The most common beach bird was the House Sparrow.

Wandering Tattler
The final shorebird I saw was another new one for me, the Wandering Tattler. Also migratory, these birds spend the summers in far-eastern Russia, Alaska, portions of the California coast and northwestern Canada. 


Wandering Tattler hunkering down in the wind
In the winter, they are found on rocky islands in the southwest Pacific and on rocky Pacific coasts from California to South America and as far away as Australia.

Wandering Tattler doing what it does -- wandering
Wandering Tattlers forage actively for crustaceans and marine worms, making jerky bobbing movements. Its name refers to two separate characteristic of the breed: "wandering" for its widespread occurrence over vast portions of ocean; “tattler" for the alarm notes it uses to alert other birds to a hunter's presence. But, ya gotta think the name also reflects how it paces along the water's edge.

Scaly-Breasted Munia
Scaly-Breasted Munia
Another bird in abundance at Kealia Pond -- and also at the golf courses -- was the tiny little Scaly-Breasted Munia, known in the pet trade as Nutmeg Mannikin or Spice Finch. Big flocks of these cute little critters fly from bush to bush on the edge of the boardwalk, occasionally alighting long enough to be photographed.

Native to tropical Asia, the Scaly-Breasted Munia – so named because of scale-shaped feather markings on the breast and belly – is another introduced species.

The highly social bird eats grass seeds, berries and small insects, foraging in flocks and communicating with soft calls and whistles.

A flock of Scaly-Breasted Munias
Unlike many birds in Maui, Scaly-Breasted Munias are not endangered and are, in fact, listed in the “least concern” category.

Golf Course Birds
Then, we were off to wilds of Maui – the King Kamehameha Golf Course in Waikapu. Although this is a private club, Beth has permission to take her tours onto the grounds for two reasons – to look for birds and to see the unique clubhouse. 


The King Kamehameha Club Clubhouse
This spaceship-looking pink structure with tile trim that resembles whale flukes was based on the designs of several structures by Frank Lloyd Wright.

Clubhouse detail
The primary design was a house Wright designed for Arthur Miller and Marilyn Monroe that was never built because the playwright and actress divorced. That design was, in turn, a modification of two previous unbuilt projects from the late 40s and early 50s.

The Conch Blower
The three designs remained in Wright's Taliesin archives for more than two decades until 1988, when Architect John Rattenbury combined them. 

He enlarged the 7,000 square feet planned for a house to 74,000 square feet to meet the spatial requirements of a commercial clubhouse and modified them to it to fit into the natural landscape of Waikapu's hilly terrain. 

Construction of the clubhouse was completed in 1993.

When economic downturn closed the golf course from 1999-2006, the clubhouse was kept open and used for private functions. 

Now the property is one of Maui's premier 18-hole member golf clubs.

Most of the birds we saw on the grounds were repeats of birds I had already seen – and have discussed in previous posts …

The Common Myna …

Common Mynas are often seen striding confidently across parking lots or yards
The Red-Crested Cardinal …

Red-Crested Cardinals tend to stay on the ground
The Java Sparrow (almost too far away to photograph) … 

Java Sparrows are a bit more shy than other birds we saw
... and the Pacific Golden Plover …

Pacific Golden Plovers also like golf courses
Chestnut Munia
I did get a glimpse – through a windshield that made catching a photo impossible – of a couple of Chestnut Munias. You need forensic IT skills to pick them out!


Left, in my picture, you can barely make out two birds; right, Chestnut Munia
This was the only time I saw this bird. And, they were extremely skittish, flying off every time Beth advanced the van.

This small introduced Asian finch has a black head and brown body with a brick-red patch on the lower back, visible only when it flies.

Sea Birds?
You may wonder why, on a birding tour, we didn’t see any seabirds. That’s because there aren’t many in Maui. They are rare for the same reasons whales gather in Maui – lack of food in the shallow bays. There are a number of pelagic birds that live on the open ocean and come into Maui just to nest, but nothing was actively nesting when I visited. And, now, feral cats threaten many of the nesting colonies. Oddly this trip was the first time I noticed that the beaches are devoid of gulls. Rather, they are inhabited by Common Mynas, House Sparrows, Rock Pigeons and Red-Crested Cardinals.

On my subsequent visit with Caty, I did see a few very cool seabirds – including my first Booby. I will talk about them later.


A Brown Booby flies across Ma'alaea Bay
The birding tour was a fun day where I learned a lot about Maui and the birds that live there. I didn’t check off everything on the list – far from it – but I did gain a much greater appreciation for why checking off the list is difficult.

Some good sightings

Trip 1 date: January 31-February 8, 2019
Trip 2 date: February 25-March 2, 2019

No comments:

Post a Comment