Viking River Cruise: Passau

Salt Tower

The next morning brought us to Passau, Germany.

Located in Lower Bavaria, Passau is known as the "City of Three Rivers" because the Danube is joined at Passau by the River Inn from the south and the River Ilz from the north. The city’s population is 50,000, of whom about 12,000 are students at the University of Passau.

Passau was first settled in the 2nd century BC by the Boii tribe from northern Italy, making the area part of the Roman Empire.

Passau houses

During the second half of the 5th century, St. Severinus established a monastery in Passau. In 739, the diocese of Passau was founded. For years, it was the largest diocese of the German Kingdom/Holy Roman Empire, covering territory in southern Bavaria and most of what is now Upper and Lower Austria. From the 10th Century the bishops of Passau also exercised secular authority as prince-bishops in the Passau area.

Rathaus design: lions and wolf

During the Renaissance and early modern period, Passau was one of the most prolific sword and bladed weapon manufacturing centers in Germany. Passau blades carried a stamp of the wolf similar to the one on the city's coat-of-arms. 

Superstitious warriors believed the wolf made the blade’s bearer invincible, making Passau swords very valuable.

After a fire destroyed most of the city in 1662, Passau was rebuilt in the Baroque style. After the rule of the prince-bishops was dissolved in 1803, Passau was divided between the Electorate of Bavaria and the Electorate of Salzburg.

From 1892 until 1894, Adolf Hitler and his family lived in Passau and Heinrich Himmler also had close ties to the area. During World War II, Passau was home to a number of Nazi organizations as well as three sub-camps of the Mauthausen-Gusen concentration camp. After the war, it was the site of an American sector displaced persons camp.

Because it is located at the confluence of three rivers and has a relatively low elevation, Passau frequently suffers from severe floods. High water marks are evident on many buildings. This former orphanage and school (now a day care center) shows how severe the floods can be with the ancient artwork faded below the high-water mark and vibrant above. 

High-water mark on building embellishment

St. John of Nepomuk

A nearby statue celebrates St. John of Nepomuk, a Bohemian saint who was drowned in the Vltava river by King Wenceslaus of Bohemia (now the Czech Republic) because he refused to divulge the secrets Wenceslaus’ queen shared in the confessional. Wenceslaus suspected that she was cheating on him.

Why a Bohemian saint in Bavaria? John of Nepomuk is a protector from floods and drowning. 

His image shows up several places in town. Plus, we saw a statue of St. John of Nepomuk in Prague, as well. 

I suppose if you live on a river, you need a patron saint to protect you.

The boat arrived well before tour time, we were able to take pictures from our balcony ...

Scott on our stateroom balcony

I spent some time admiring the Black-Headed Gulls ...

Black-headed Gull

... and Mr. and Mrs. Mallard ...

Male and female Mallards

Then,  Scott and I got off the boat with a goal of taking some photos. As soon as we disembarked it started to rain again.

Finally, docked in town!

Fortunately, it was a short shower and our tour wasn’t significantly affected.

Touring in the rain

Because of the confluence of the three rivers, Passau was a major trade center. 

Salt Warehouse

One of the city's biggest commodities was salt mined in Bad Reichenhall near Salzburg (literally “Salt Town”). Much of the trade was with Bohemia (remember, the Czech Republic). 

Many buildings in town used to be salt warehouses. 

Because of the constant flooding, most salt warehouses are tall so that the salt could be stored on upper floors away from rising waters. 

Passau has a very picturesque warehouse tower, called the “salt castle,” that sits right by the River Inn.

Salt Castle

The Veste Oberhaus sits above the city on a hill overlooking the Danube. The fortress was built in 1219 by Ulrich II, the first prince-bishop of Passau. The goal of the structure was twofold: the political purpose was to demonstrate military strength and underscore the bishop's status as ruler; the practical purpose was to protect against enemies (which included Passau citizens who wanted independence from church rule).

Veste Oberhaus

Veste Oberhaus was repeatedly renovated and extended, beginning in 1255-56. 

1499

The inscription "1499" prominent on the facade refers to one of these renovations. Note that the second digit looks like half an eight. That was how the numeral four was expressed at the time – half of eight. 

One reason four took this form was that the number eight was considered lucky.

The fortress was attacked five times between 1250 and 1482, each time without success. Twice, in 1298 and 1367, the attackers were Passau citizens rebelling against the prince-bishop.

Between 1535 and 1540, numerous Protestant Anabaptists were imprisoned in the castle dungeon for their beliefs. During their imprisonment, the Ausbund hymnal, still used in Amish religious services, was developed. Some of the hymn writers died while imprisoned; many were martyred.

Rathaus statue: the lion is the symbol of Bavaria

In 1704, 1742 and 1800, the fortress surrendered to various forces. 

In 1802, Passau overthrew the prince-bishop and introduced a secular government. 

Napoleon used the fortress during his campaign against Austria, but lost it to Austria in 1805 when the area became part of Bavaria. 

Until 1918, it was state and military prison, often called the "Bastille of Bavaria." 

The building became a museum in 1932.

The smaller Veste Niederhaus, connected to Veste Oberhaus by a battlement, is located below on the bank of the Danube. This addition, made after 1367, created a double fortress almost 2,300 ft. long.

We didn’t visit the castle, although now I wish I had. Another reason that research in advance of the trip might have been a good idea!

Passau has a beautiful City Hall – the Altes Rathaus – that sits in Town Hall Square on the banks of the Danube. The Venetian-style building dates back to 1405 and is decorated with frescoes created in 1922 chronicling the history of the city.

Rathaus frescoes

 A 125-foot-high tower was completed in 1892 to replace a previous tower demolished in 1811. In 1991, an automatic carillon with 23 bells was installed in the tower. 

Rathaus tower

Monkeys?

Some of the carved decorations on the Rathaus building and in the courtyard in front include images of the lion – the symbol of Bavaria. 

Locals don't always love the lions because they reflect the once free city being annexed by Bavaria.  

They are much more fond of the wolf, the official symbol of the city. 

There are other carvings, as well. The Rathaus doors are flanked with figures of salt miners and monkeys (!). I am not sure where they fit into the likeability scale.

A fun building nearby is the Hotel Wilder Mann (Wild Man Hotel) with its amusing depiction of a fur-clad heathen with a club.

Wild Man Hotel

I am not sure why it is called this – the hotel website’s history doesn’t explain the name. I think it is a reference to the Germanic tribes that terrorized the outposts of the Holy Roman Empire. 

The building also houses a glass museum that is supposed to be spectacular. We didn’t have time to visit.

Artist's walk

Passau has an active arts community and some of the narrow streets (they may look like alleys, but they are streets) have colored stones leading to the artisans' shops. 

When I travel, I hate to shop except when there are local crafts. Then, I can spend hours. 

We stopped in a store featuring wood carving. I bought a Santa incense burner and miniature Christmas scenes for me and Santa ornaments for Caty and Becca. 

I am a sucker for German Christmas decorations. 

Left Santas are about 6" and 2 1/2" tall; right are less than 1"

I did fight the urge to buy a cuckoo clock.

One of the highlights of Passau is St. Stephen's Cathedral (Der Passauer Stephansdom). 

St. Stephen's Cathedral with statue of King Maximilian Joseph I in the foreground

Outside the church is a statue of King Maximilian Joseph I, the first ruler of Bavaria. He ruled from 1806 to 1825 and was known as a protector of the people, including the Jews, who found peace under his reign – a respite from frequent persecution in Germany.

It was a little gloomy out when we first visited, but the inside made up for the lack of sunshine. Unlike many gloomy Gothic churches in Germany, St. Stephen's is bright white ...

St. Stephen's Cathedral

With 17,774 pipes and 233 registers, the organ at St. Stephen's was long held to be the largest church pipe organ in the world and is second in size only to the organ at First Congregational Church, Los Angeles, which was expanded in 1994. 

The "organ" is really several separate organs of different tonal styles all accessible from one or more consoles. Organ concerts are held daily between May and September. But, we were able to hear it because, after our tour, we attended Sunday Mass.

St. Stephen's organ

Click here to hear is a small selection of the organ and choir pieces.

St. Stephen's

The Italian Baroque church is the seat of the Catholic Bishop of Passau and the main church of the diocese. Since 730, there have been many churches built on the site of the current cathedral, which was built from 1668 to 1693 after a fire in 1662 destroyed its predecessor.

The cathedral has eight large bells in the bell rooms in the north and south towers. The heaviest, "Pummerin" weighs 16,644 lbs. and was cast in 1952.

The exceptionally ornate nave has gorgeous paintings on the ceiling ...

St. Stephen's ornate ceiling

 ... and a great deal of gold embellishment and statues ...

St. Stephen's Cathedral

After mass, we had lunch in a small restaurant.

Craig, Cheri and me waiting for lunch

Scott’s meal – a pig’s knuckle roasted and then fried crispy – was very impressive and delicious. I had potato pancakes with applesauce – also yummy.

A truly German lunch

Then, we had to hustle to get back to the boat on time. 

When we arrived, we saw some Yellow-Necked Mice scurrying around the docks. There aren’t many animals to see in Europe – I will take what I can get.

Dockside Yellow-Necked Mouse

As we left – heading back up the river and then through an industrial channel because the bridges are too low to sail under, we saw more Mallards and Black-Headed Gulls plus some Eurasian Magpies. 

Eurasian Magpies look just like our Black-Billed Magpies

Once again, there wasn’t much wildlife, so I tried to get some good pictures in the failing light as the sky clouded over again. 

And now we were off towards Regensburg -- and its famous sausage.

Regensburg bratwurst and kraut

Trip date: October 25-November 7, 2017