Friday, September 25, 2015

September in Alaska #2 -- Kenai Fjords

The next morning, we considered doing a Prince William Sound cruise (26 Glaciers in One Day!!!), but the weather looked iffy, so we headed for Seward. 

Typical Alaskan weather
Fall on the Kenai is spectacular. We stopped to admire several vistas along the way.

Fall
Its beauty made me wonder why we haven’t spent more time there. Scott did remind me that it is ridiculously crowded during the summer, with fishermen standing on top of each other (picture below).

So much for the solitude of fishing
Our original plan was to go to the Sealife Center, a great aquarium and sea life rescue facility, in Seward. But, the weather cleared somewhat and the timing was right, so we took a Kenai Fjords cruise. 

Cruising
There are several providers that cruise into Kenai Fjords National Park. We have always gone with Kenai Fjords Tours. We have always been satisfied with the boats, the tour guides, the number of people on board. 

We just keep coming back
This cruise leaves Seward and heads into Kenai Fjords National Park, which contains many of the nearly 40 glaciers that flow from the massive Harding Ice Field.

The route
I have done this cruise five or six times (the first one was in 1990 during my second business trip to Alaska). This trip was among the worst for weather (I said we were paying dues), seas (we had some pretty rough moments) ... 


... and glaciers (not much, but some, calving) ...

Calving glacier
But, the Whales were good – we even saw a Humpback breach, which I didn’t get on the camera. We did see plenty of flukes. Although many Humpbacks had already left for warmer birthing and breeding grounds in Hawaii, some remain all year and some linger to fatten up before they head south. These were stragglers and remainders.

Fluke
Even though most of the Puffins had departed for the season (they migrate to British Columbia and even points farther south in the winter), we did see a few. Puffins fly very fast and are extremely difficult to photograph. 

This is my best!
We also saw Sandhill Cranes on their way south (they travel to the southern U.S.).

In formation
And, we got very close to Sea Otters ... 

Just chillin'
... and saw some great Steller Sea Lions.

More chillin'
Our trip was aboard the Callisto Voyager  ...

Our boat
... a double-hulled boat that took the waves pretty well.

The trip took us from Seward Harbor through Resurrection Bay, where we immediately saw two Bald Eagles ...

Looks like a mated pair, female on the right
... one of which flew for us ...

Fly-by
Then we went down the bay ...

Looks gloomy
... stopping to watch a crazy surfer (that water is very cold, around 50 degrees away from the ice, colder as it nears the glaciers) ...

Brrrrrrrr
 ... past Cheval Island (named because it allegedly looked like a horse - I don't see it) ...

Do you see it?
... and then up Aialik Bay to Aialik Glacier, a new glacier for me. 

A big one
All my previous trips had gone to nearby Holgate, Margate or Northwestern Glacier. Aialik is impressive and, although it only calved a little, the sound (cracks, pops and booms) and sight of it were awe-inspiring.


So, what are glaciers?

Tunnel under the glacier
A glacier is a body of dense ice that constantly moves under its own weigh. Glaciers form where the accumulation of snow exceeds melting and evaporation over many years, often centuries. Glaciers flow like very slow rivers and, as the go, they form crevasses, seracs (columns) and even caves. Their movement abrades rock, carrying debris along with the ice and depositing it at the glacial terminus. Glaciers form only on land and are distinct from the much thinner sea ice and lake ice that form on the surface of bodies of water.

Touring
On Earth, 99 percent of glacial ice is contained within vast ice sheets in the polar regions (including the Harding Ice Field, which is the largest in the U.S.), but glaciers may be found in mountain ranges on every continent except Australia, and on a few high-latitude oceanic islands. 

Tidewater
The glaciers we saw on this trip are tidewater glaciers that end when they meet the ocean.

Glaciers appear blue just as large quantities of water appear blue because their molecules absorb other colors more efficiently than blue and because they have no air bubbles, which give a white color to the regular ice. Glaciers squeeze bubbles out as they compress.  

The ice at the top
As they travel, the stress also causes loud cracks and booms. When large chunks fall off, it is called calving.

Flowing down the mountain
Steep mountains
Glacial ice is the largest reservoir of freshwater on Earth. 

Because glacial mass is affected by long-term climate changes, glacial mass changes are considered among the most sensitive indicators of climate change. Melting glaciers are a major source of variations in sea level. 

Scott and I have seen dramatic reduction in the size of many glaciers as we have visited Alaska over the years.

There were a few Harbor Seals on the nearby icebergs. They tend to gather on the bergs for protection from predators, such as orcas.

Harbor Seals
And, as we headed back, the skies started to open up.

Lookin' better
We stopped to view the Steller Sea Lions that had hauled out very high up on the rocks. 

A dramatic resting place
Watching then climb is pretty impressive, too.

Close-up
And, even though the weather was rainy ... 

Limited visibility
... we did have some lovely vistas ...

Pretty
And, an exciting run with some Dall's Porpoises.


And extra treat was when we returned to the harbor in Seward, there were Sea Otters right there, eating mussels and posing for photos. 

Cool!
We spent a little time photographing them ...

Enjoying dinner
It was awesome.

The closest I have been to a Sea Otter
When we got back to Alyeska, it cleared enough to make it worth the Alyeska Aerial Tram up 2,300 ft. in elevation and the top of Mt. Alyeska. 

A nice -- but foggy -- view
From the Tram, you can see miles in all directions -- including views of Turnagain Arm, up to seven "hanging" glaciers, the Chugach Mountain range and the resort.

The resort
It was cloudy, but we could see a pretty sunset just around the mountains.

A subtle glow

Trip date: September 10-21, 2015

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