Thursday, May 21, 2015

A Chance Stop in El Coronil

This is Spain
As we headed from Seville to Granada, we had the shortest drive of the trip and decided not to take the major highways. When I planned the trip, I relied on Google maps for travel time, which ended up putting us on major highways, thus reducing the "scenicness" of our travel. If I had it to do over, I would have gone fewer places to allow more time for lesser roads and I would have done more research to find scenic routes. The major highways are nice, but not particularly scenic and the tolls are outrageous!

So, as we were heading toward Grazalema, which was a planned stop on the way to Seville, we saw a lovely church steeple rising from a small town and we decided to pull off. 

The steeple pulled us in
The town is El Coronil, which is in the foothills of the Sierra de Cádiz, in the midst of gently rolling fields used to cultivate cereals and olives. 

According to the Andalusia Tourist Community, remains found in El Coronil date back to the Copper and Bronze Ages, including a Celt and Iberian town called Salpensa and traces of the Tartessian city of Callet or Calla. 

Most of the 6,000 inhabitants descended from 45 families who settled there under the leadership of Ruy Pérez de Esquivel with authorization from King Juan I. 

In town, we found leafy streets  and 
wrought ironwork ...

It was also virtually deserted
... ornate tile around doors and in foyers ...

Beautiful
... some with religious figures or fancy plaster work ...

Something interesting around every corner
We also saw the Chapel of the Vera Cruz (Convent of Discalced Carmelites) ... ...

Gotta keep those nuns locked up
Then, we found the small castle of El Coronil that was open ...

No guard, no entrance fee, nothing
... so we took the stairs up to the roof ...

Very cool
... for a great view ...

Pretty place on a pretty day
Then, we went to the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Consolación, which is what drew us in the first place.

The beckoning towers
People seemed friendly in the very quiet little town, where they were going about their business, children were playing in the schoolyard and a large number of residents were enjoying a midmorning coffee break (or maybe just getting their day started) at a cafe on the main street.

Residents also include some storks.

A common sight in Spain
And, in case this looks like a town stuck in its Old World ways, check out the solar array in the background.

Solar panels and solar laundry
On the way out of town, we stopped to click a few pictures of the 14th century Moorish castle of Aguzaderas. The Esquivel family owned the castle of Aguzaderas, which later passed to the Medinaceli family, who gave it to the El Coronil town council. 

Really old
Unlike most Spanish castles, it isn't located on the top of a hill or in a location that is easy to defend. Rather, it sits in a riverbed, because it was probably built to defend a spring that served as a primary water source. For hundreds of years, the area was a war zone between the Moors and the Christians, making water a precious resource.

Booted Eagle
And, the weather was glorious!


Trip date: April 25-May 15, 2015

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