If I Were Going...: Big Circle -- Big Bend

Hot time in the canyon

After Gulf Islands, I headed off through Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana, ending up in Breaux Bridge for the evening, with my sights on Big bend National Park in west Texas.

The next morning I drove through what has to be the one of the most unfortunately ugly parts of the U.S. – Lake Charles, La., to Houston. It is a bit disingenuous for someone driving cross-country in a gasoline-powered vehicle to comment, so I apologize. The natural beauty of lakes and mysterious-looking swamps crossed by some rather spectacular bridges is marred by refinery after refinery after refinery. It’s a shame, but it is what keeps us going.

So, I forged on through the always-awful Houston traffic (taking as much bypass as possible) and the surprisingly awful San Antonio traffic. I stopped for lunch at a roadside table and made the mistake of leaving my care windows open (it was in the 90s) and had to live with a car full of flies for the rest of the day.

I thought seriously about stopping at the Alamo, but decided against dealing with the hassle of getting there, parking and getting out. Instead I pressed on to Big Bend. I made it (as planned) to Fort Stockton, the biggest town near Big Bend, where I gassed up, bought groceries and crashed for the night.

Bright and early the next morning, I headed to Big Bend National Park, driving through the small town of Marathon and arriving at about 10 a.m.

A new Park for me

I lived in Texas on-and-off for 18 years and never made it to Big Bend because it is so remote. It gets its name from its location – it sits on the Rio Grande River, which forms the border between Texas and Mexico and creates the big bend of Texas’ southwestern border.

The Rio Grande

It is in the Chihauhuan desert (one of four distinct deserts in the U.S.) and features mountains, dramatic canyons, desert plains, elevations ranging from 1,800 to 7,800 feet and lots of prickly plants.

Cactus

At over 800,000 acres, it is the 14^th largest National Park (the 7^th largest in the lower 48) and is larger than Rhode Island. Because it is so remote, only about 350,000 people visit every year (compare to 3 million for Yellowstone or 4 million for Yosemite).

A rock formation

Even though it was October, the temperatures were in the high 90s (higher than normal) -- topping out at ...

Hot!!!!

Because there has been so much rain this year, it was surprisingly green ...

Green on the hills

... and wildflowers were in bloom everywhere.

It looks landscaped

Even the ocotillos had leaves.

A cactus close-up

I drove the eastern roads as soon as I arrived. This included the 10-mile round-trip Dagger Flat Auto trail, a gravel road that showcases desert vegetation.

Ocotillos

I then headed down to Rio Grande Village, which is on the Rio Grande. On the way, I stopped at the gravesite of an early settler, whose surname was Hannold.

Scott's sister's husband's name is Hannold

Then, I stopped at the Hot Springs area, which has a very narrow road in and some interesting historic buildings.

Hot Springs

I started to walk to the springs, but encountered some nasty, sticky mud. I decided I would come back later with better shoes (I had flip flops on).

I then ate my picnic lunch down by Rio Grande Village at a table that didn’t have enough shade and had warnings about javelinas raiding food stores. I hoped some would show up, but they didn’t. I did however, see lots of roadrunners and passed an area closed to humans because it is a Common Black hawk nesting area.

Then, on to Boquillas Canyon, a narrow canyon of the Rio Grande with some pretty vistas. I just looked around on the first day.

Chisos Mountains

Then, back up the road to check in at the Chisos Mountains Lodge, the only lodging in the park. It is in the Chisos Basin, which is in the center of the park and sits at 5,200 feet, surrounded by the tallest mountains in the park. I expected the elevation to cool it off, but it was still pretty warm.

Rocky hillside

The view from the room is pretty nice, too.

Nice view

That evening, I headed to the western part of the park, driving down to Santa Elena Canyon, making lots of stops along the way.

Big Bend views

Santa Elena is a gorgeous, steep-walled canyon cut by the Rio Grande. Apparently it is only 30 feet wide a one point.

Santa Elena Canyon

I also drove the very long gravel Old Maverick road that showcases beautiful desert plants. Although the part of the trail (aptly named Javelina Wash) reeked of javelinas, I didn’t see any.

Alien landscape

There is also an ancient farm dwelling, Luna's Jacal.

An old, old building

I got up very early (3:30 a.m.) the next morning to see the night sky. Big Bend is a designated dark sky area and because of the clean, dry air, night viewing is spectacular. I could see the Milky Way even with my car lights on. I tried to take photos, but rapidly discovered that I did not know what I was doing. I saw a few deer as I was driving and I heard the yipping of either foxes or coyotes, but no bears, javalinas or mountain lions. At one point when I was outside the care in total darkness, I heard something trotting up behind me. I jumped in the car and never saw what it was.

Still, it was incredible.

The next morning, I headed back to Santa Elena Canyon to get sunrise photos and to hike up the side of the canyon.

Sunset

When I got back in the car, my tire pressure indicator was on, so I drove all the way back to Terlingua and added air to the tire that was low. It was a pretty drive out.

End of day

Impassable

Then, I went back into the park and drove all the way back to Santa Elena to hike.

Unfortunately, I had failed to notice that the trail was impassable because the river was so high that a long section was under water and mud. I didn't want to walk through that, especially when I was by myself.

I learned while in Big Bend that the Rio Grande can fluctuate a great deal and those changes in level pretty much control the flow of life in the Park.

So, instead, I headed back north, passing some very interesting gypsum mountains that didn't even look natural.

White and red

Then, I hiked to Mule Ears Spring -- named after the Mule Ears formation ...

Rabbit's Ears

The trail is a four-mile round-trip jaunt through desert scrub with no shade.

Brutal

The spring was a bit disappointing and the hike in 90+ degree temperatures was tough. But, it was nice to get out and walk.

This was the oasis

Then, I took a little detour, leaving Big Bend National Park and driving through Big Bend Ranch State Park, which has steep grades, some interesting formations ...

Something great everywhere you look

... some fun roadside stops ...

Teepee picnic tables and an old movie set

Then, I caught sunset at Chisos.

Bright color

On my last day in the park, I did several hikes. I started in the morning with a low tire again that required me to go back to Terlingua to get the tire fixed. It turns out it had a small nail in it.

Then, I went back down the eastern road ...

Nice vista

... returning to Hot Springs with appropriate hiking gear. It was a lovely hike, but I never found the springs – I think they were under water because the river was so high.

Hiking along the Rio Grande

I finally got a good shot of a Greater Roadrunner ....

Meep meep

Next, I hiked into Boquillas Canyon. Although not quite as dramatic as Santa Elena, it was gorgeous.

On the way in, I saw some beautiful horses running on the Mexican side ...