Wednesday, September 11, 2024

Birding in Mexico: Around Gómez Farías

A juvenile Roadside Hawk
After a long day, up and down the mountain, we returned Casa de Piedra, where we saw a Blue-capped Motmot and a Masked Tityra from the balcony. 

The Motmot, left, flew in as we were watching the Tityra eat a worm
Rene then asked if we wanted to go out for some birding in a nearby sugar cane field. Susan and Heather declined, but I was game. So, off we went again, visiting Campos Héroes de Chapultepec, which yielded some repeat birds and some new ones. 

We were searching for birds in the sugar cane fields
The area is named for the Niños Héroes, six Mexican military cadets who were killed in the defense of Mexico City during the Battle of Chapultepec, one of the last major battles of the Mexican-American War in 1847.

Horrible shots of an elusive bird
We were looking for the endemic Altamira Yellowthroat that, through necessity, had transitioned from a wetlands habitat to living among the cane plants. We did see one female that was hopping in and out of the tall, green cane blades, never landing long enough for a good look. This was a lifer, so even a bad photo was better than nothing. 

Another lifer, the Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, escaped my camera completely. I did manage to photograph:

A Common Ground Dove and a White-winged Dove
A Blue-black Grassquit
Lots of Groove-billed Anis
Morelet's Seedeaters
Great Kiskadees and a Roadside Hawk
And, I saw, but didn’t capture, Ruddy Ground Doves, Mourning Doves, a Green Heron, Social Flycatchers, Eastern Meadowlarks, Bronzed Cowbirds, a Melodious Blackbird and Great-tailed Grackles.

We saw a number of Orioles, including Altimira ...

Many were sitting along the farm roads
Six Orchard and one Hooded ...

Female and male Orchard Oriole, left, and Hooded Oriole, right
The Orchard Orioles surprised Rene; he said they should have migrated on by that time. But, there they were!

Unfortunately, one target, the Aplomado Falcon, which I really, really, really wanted to photograph, did not show. 

Birding in the Dark
But, the day was not over. We had dinner at Mario’s wife’s restaurant, Comidas Sierra Bonita. Although the menu was limited, enchiladas and rolled tacos were delicious as was the great salsa.

Things were picking up
We loaded up Rene’s Jeep and headed to a narrow dirt road that ran along a river near a private ranch where we would look for night birds. Our main targets were Northern Potoos, Mottled Owls and Tawny-collared Nightjars.

Tawny-necked Nightjar; Photo: eBird
We needed to arrive at our watch spot by dusk, because, according to Rene, the Nightjars begin feeding then and will respond to calls. 

But, after sunset, they go silent and will not respond. They must be hard to see because there are hardly any photos on the Internet.

I felt that we may have left a little late because it was getting dark fast. As we drove down the road, we startled many (Rene posted eight on eBird, but I think it was more like 20) Common Pauraques that flew up in front of the car as we approached. This is typical behavior for them and I would have loved to get a photo. But, it was dark and we were moving fast.

A Common Pauraque on the road that I shot in Costa Rica
We reached an area near the ranch gate where we turned around and headed back out (Rene wanted the car positioned for an easier exit in full dark) and he headed for a site where he had seen the target birds before. But, as he drove, he stopped and said that a tree on the opposite side of the river looked like a good spot for the Potoo. 

Look at that!!!
He shined his high-powered flashlight and there it was! 

Right there!

I had seen Potoos – a Common and a Great – in daylight in Costa Rica. This was a different species – the Northern. Because it was night, it had its enormous eyes wide open! That was a treat. 

A nocturnal Nightjar, the Northern Potoo was formerly classified as a subspecies of the Common Potoo, but is now treated as a separate species based on differences in vocalizations. 

A common looking like a post in Costa Rica
Fairly large, with a length of 14-18 inches, it has a long tail, long pointed wings, large head, very short legs and a small bill with a large gape. In the daytime, it is commonly seen perched motionless in an upright position on branches or posts. 

Big eyes!
The large eye has a yellow iris that can shine red in light at night (the one we saw reflected black). The Northern Potoo's calls are hoarse, guttural and pretty darn weird. Because of this call, the indigenous Mopan people of Belize and Guatemala believe that if one flies over a person's house repeatedly at night, someone in that family will die. To prevent this, they chase the birds away with lighted sticks.

The Common Potoo is virtually identical in appearance, but has a very different voice consisting of a series of mournful, wailing whistles.

Potoos feed on large insects, including Moths and Beetles (and Tamaulipas certainly has insects!). It hunts from a perch, sitting and waiting for prey then launching to catch the prey in flight. 

It uses a similar perch as a "nest." It lays a single egg on a broken branch with no nesting material and both parents incubate the egg and feed the young bird.

Understand that it was across the river and dark, so I had little hope for any decent photos. While not great, these do show what it looked like. And, I can honestly say that they are the best photos I have ever taken of a Northern Potoo!

We watched for a while before the Potoo took off
We heard some Tawny Nightjars and may have briefly seen one fly from tree to tree in the distance, but never could entice one close enough to view. Then, it got dark, so we changed focus to the Mottled Owl.

Silent flight; Photo: Animal Corner
We heard two – one close and one a bit down the river – and Rene started playing a call. 

One flew right over our heads, even turning to hover a moment to look at us before flying back into the woods. 

Then, as Rene called, this pattern repeated over and over, with the Owl flying to the other side of the river deep into the trees, then back to our side, then back again. 

Sometimes we saw it fly, sometimes it just called from a new spot. Of course, even when it was right above us, we never heard it fly because Owls are notoriously silent of the wing. Finally, it landed in a tree across the river where we could see it, moving a few times in the thick foliage. I got a great view as Rene illuminated it, but never could find it in my camera long enough to focus. It was even darker now and it was a bit farther than the Potoo. So, I probably wouldn’t have gotten anything.

Mottled Owl; Photo: eBird
At 11 to 14 inches tall, Mottled Owls are big. They roost during the day at all levels in the dense cover of taller trees and often hunt at night from low perches such as fence posts and road signs. 

They have a rounded head, brown eyes framed with whitish crescents and overall streaked brown plumage.

Mottled Owls have the greatest degree of sexual dimorphism of any species of Owl, with females considerably larger. The one we saw looked large, so maybe it was a She-Owl. They produce a range of calls including a hoot used in maintaining territory boundaries (what we heard since our call would be a challenge), various whistles, screeches and hisses. They can sound like a barking dog.

Santa Margarita Ranch Owl; Photo; SMR
Because they are native to Mexico and Central and South America, maybe I’ll get another opportunity to see one some day. I missed a chance in April when I couldn’t stay to do a night hike at Santa Margarita Ranch

Well, at least I saw it this time!

What a great day – so many birds – so many lifers – and a Potoo!!!

Trip date: August 12-18, 2024

Tuesday, September 10, 2024

El Cielo Biosphere Reserve

Tamaulipas Pygmy Owl in El Cielo Biosphere Reserve
The next morning, we headed out in Mario’s truck (an ancient affair with two benches and a fabric roof in the back) for our trip up the road from Gómez Farías to the small town of Alta Cima to bird along the way. 

Our route
Susan and Rene with the truck
Rene rode in the back and we all started out in the cab. Later, Heather moved to the back, and I even did a brief (bumpy) stint there. The truck wasn’t air conditioned (of course not), but it wasn’t too, too bad while driving. 

I must tell you, however, this part of Mexico was hot and, more importantly, humid.

Very hot.

Very humid.

Before hitting the main road, we stopped by the El Cielo Ecological Interpretive Center. It wasn’t open yet, but it is a good place to see birds. We started by watching some White-crowned Parrots in the trees above us. 

A popular feeding spot
We estimate there were about 30 of them flying in and out, hopping around and feeding.

Lots of noisy activity
This bird's scientific name is Pionus Senilis, so given because the male's white forehead and crown look like an old man's white hair (senillis = senile).

A common Parrot in Mexico
We also saw some Wedge-tailed Sabrewings, too deep in the shade to show their colors. 

My photo on the right; an eBird photo on the left shows the bird's color in the light
I captured one of two Spot-breasted Wrens we saw, perching above me. This is a species that had evaded my camera in Costa Rica.

I was happy to get it even though it was dark
I have mentioned Clay-colored Thrushes a lot because they are plentiful. I just didn’t concentrate much of snapping their picture (I have some good ones from other trips). 

We saw some Clay-colored Thrushes here and more later on during the day
We had heard but not seen a Scrub Euphonia (a lifer for me) the evening before. We saw some more this morning  ...

A cute little bird
... as well as the first of several Black-headed Saltators for the day ...

The name is from the Latin "saltator' or " saltatoris," meaning "dancer"
The road is, to put it mildly, rough. They say four-wheel-drive is required. Believe it. 

The only way to go
The locals all either have old four-wheel-drive trucks (I never saw so many ancient pick-up trucks, several with Texas plates) or they ride mules up and down from Alta Cima. There is no hope for a regular car.

They tether the mules along the road when not using them
We had started early because we were hoping to get a quick glimpse of the very shy and secretive Thicket Tinamou, which sometimes darts across the road early in the morning. We heard two calling and then Rene was shocked when one came out of the bushes and strolled down the road. 

Tinamous are the oldest birds genetically, closely related to prehistoric birds
He said he had never seen one out in the open for as long as this one. It’s not an exciting bird to look at, but pretty hard to see. 

While not actually flightless, they seldom fly
Moments later (prompted by some calls), we saw the other hard-to-see bird Rene was looking for, four Singing Quails. Unlike the Tinamou, they stayed in the undergrowth. But, their loud song certainly underscored where they got their name.

True to its name, a singing Singing Quail
Then, we headed up, stopping occasionally to observe both magnificent scenery and birds.

Two views of an overlook: traditional and Mario's 360 degree camera
See the video from that camera here:


The day was steamy, switching back and forth from clear to foggy. When one of the enveloping clouds drifted by, the temperatures dropped, giving us a brief respite. 

The temperatures and humidity favor many types of plants
There were lots of mosquitoes, which is why, despite the heat, I wore long sleeves and pants. I had treated my clothes with permethrin and I was slathered in repellent lotion. Still, I was bitten a few times, mainly on my hands, which I had washed since applying the lotion.

As we labored up and back down the mountain, we saw a number of birds. I got photos of a Red-billed Pigeon, which is such a hearty bird that we thought it was a raptor until I got a good look at my photo.

A Red-billed Pigeon and lots and lots of Spanish moss
I spent a long time shooting an adorable little Yellow-throated Euphonia that, unlike most birds, sat out in the open and sang.

Giving us a song
I was so occupied that I missed a lot in the thick bushes.

You know what they say about birds in the bush
Once we reached the small town of Alta Cima, we took a break for water and snacks, birded some, had lunch (some rather fatty chicken in sauce that I couldn’t stomach and some good rice), and birded some more. 

The entrance to the town
The tiny village has about 180 residents living in 40 households. There is a hotel, which consists of cabins and campsites and the residents open their homes to visitors and tourists The town is only nine miles from Gómez Farías, but takes about an hour to reach (without birding stops!). The elevation gain is about 2,000 feet.

Rene birding in the middle of town
Alta Cima has recorded 255 species of resident birds and 175 migrants. In and around town we saw a pretty good representation ...

Yellow-winged Tanager with its distinctive wing bars and a Fan-tailed Warbler
The Fan-tailed Warbler is much larger than you would expect a Warbler to be and has a truly long and luxurious fan tail. 

We also saw ...

An Azure-crowned Hummingbird (another one in the shade!)
Pretty little Black-headed Siskins popping in and out of a bank of flowers
A Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush
Male Bronzed Cowbirds courting the (maybe uninterested) ladies 
Some Cinnamon-bellied Saltators
A Golden-crowned Warbler and lots of Morelet's Seedeaters
Male (dark) and female (light) Yellow-faced Grassquits 
Success with a Target Bird
We spent a considerable amount of time trying to find the endemic Tamaulipas Pygmy-Owl, which can be found only in this part of Mexico. Both Rene and Mario called and listened, effectively triangulating the bird’s position as it silently flew over our heads to multiple trees high in the canopy. They caught several views until it finally landed about 30 feet up and sat for an extended period.

Tamaulipas Pygmy Owl
How they found this tiny Owl – just five inches tall – in the middle of a dense jungle, I’ll never know.

And, this is zoomed in!!!
It looks somewhat like its cousin, the Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, but since it favors forest over open areas, it is seen far less frequently. 

A rare owl to see
See the video we took here:


The little guys watched us as we watched it, hooting occasionally and, briefly, reacting to a dive-bombing Wedge-tailed Sabrewing Hummingbird.

The Hummingbird resting after harassing the Owl
What a treat to see this cutie! I doubt that I could ever find one myself.

Success!!!
Throughout the day, we saw, but I didn’t snap, lots more birds (many repeats from previous sightings): White-tipped Doves, Turkey Vultures, a female Barred Antshrike that flew off a wire just after we saw it, another Social Flycatcher, Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers, a Yellow-green Vireo, Green Jays, more hard-to-see Brown-backed Solitaires, lots of Olive Sparrows, Altamira Orioles, a Louisiana Waterthrush, a Black-and-white Warbler, another Crimson-collared Grosbeak and some Melodious Blackbirds.

The whole mountain was also alive with butterflies and Moths, especially White Angled-Sulphur Butterflies. 

They were everywhere
The Atyriodes Jalapae Moth is perhaps the most unusual Moth I had ever seen
A pretty one was a Gray Cracker
We also encountered several interesting caterpillars …

The Giant Swallowtail Butterfly Caterpillar was impressive

Yellow-striped Armyworm and a Green something I haven't identified 
I saw two large groups of Butterflies feeding together … 

Tiger Swallowtails
Marine Blues (I guess the name is from the tiny bit of blue in the dots on the wings)
El Cielo is, indeed, beautiful, with steep mountains, drifting clouds, birds, Butterflies, flowers and a profusion of foliage.

Cloud forest
Heading back down, we saw some Crested Guans in the trees and another Plain Chachalaca, all too lost in the deep foliage to photograph. 

Trip date: August 12-18, 2024