We left in the morning for the final phase of our Colorado camping trip. We decided to take the scenic route to Maroon Bells, which meant going back to the Blue Mesa reservoir and taking highway CO 133 north along the north rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The first part of the drive is definitely the scenic part. And, the most impressive is one of the first things you see after you cross over the dam -- the Curecanti Needle. It's a tall pegmatite spire that marks the entrance to the canyon.
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| The Needle juts over the river |
The rest of the drive winds past ranches and farms, goes by the entrance to the north rim of the national park and then goes past the coke ovens and the inn in Redstone.
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| Coke ovens |
After a lovely lunch at the Inn, we continued on to Maroon Bells, which is just south of Aspen -- and is reputedly the most-photographed place in Colorado. Because we had booked two days camping at one of the three nearby campgrounds, we had automobile access to the Bells. Normally, you can only drive in before 9 a.m. and after 5 p.m. otherwise, you have to take a bus.
We dropped off the Little Guy at our campsite in Silver Queen, the closest of the three National Forest campgrounds. There were only about eight sites in our loop and I suspect the numbers are equally small in Silver Bar and Silver Bell. It is worth booking early or waiting for an opening to get the access.
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| Our campsite |
Plus, the sites are lovely. No amenities - just a vault toilet, tent pads and bear lockers. The fire pit has neat benches around it that would be good for a family or scout troop.
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| Very green |
You can even see the Bells from the road just outside the campsite.
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| Nice view |
Then, we were off to the Bells. The Maroon Bells are two 14ers in the Elk Mountains that stand above a beautiful valley and lake. Maroon Peak is 14,156 feet (the 27th highest in the state) and North Maroon Peak is 14,014 feet (50th highest).
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| The Bells |
There are some other impressive spires along the sides of the valley.
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| More red than maroon |
The mountains are referred to as "The Deadly Bells" because, unlike other mountains in the Rockies that are composed of granite and limestone, the Bells are composed of metamorphic sedimentary mudstone that has hardened into rock over millions of years. These loose, unstable rocks fracture easily, making hiking and climbing at the upper segments very dangerous. The mudstone is responsible for the Bells' distinctive maroon color.
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| Pretty flowers |
With all the rain we've had, the valley was filled with gorgeous flowers.
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| Flowers |
Among the flowers is fireweed, the same plant that appears throughout Alaska wherever soil is disturbed. And, since the Maroon Bells area has 10-12 avalanches ever year, there is lots of disturbed soil.
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| Fireweed |
The valley itself was sculpted by Ice-Age glaciers and later dammed by landslide and rockfall debris from the steep slopes above the valley floor. A Beaver lodge dominates the west end of the lake.
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| Beaver lodge |
After taking some mid-day pictures, we went back to the campsite and I took a brief hike along the river. The trail isn't as close to the water as I hoped and because the foliage was so dense, it was hard to see. The path is also a horse trail, so it was a bit muddy and smelly.
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| Creek |
But, in the afternoon sunlight, it was beautiful.
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| A cool corridor |
Then, after dinner, we went back to the Bells for evening shots.
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| Although known for sunrise, it is pretty late, too |
We were rewarded with a visit from the bull Moose that has been at the Bells for the past few years and is frequently seen by the lake. What was amazing was how visible ...
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| A handsome guy |
... or invisible he can be. When he sat down he virtually disappeared in the willows. There are four Moose in the valley, but the only one we saw was the male.
We stayed by the lake as the moon rose, the temperature dropped ...
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| Moonrise |
... and one of the Beavers came out of the lodge to eat some willows.
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| American Beaver |
After he finished his snack, I saw him swim back into his lodge.
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| See him underwater? |
As the evening developed, the stars came out (including some shooting stars as part of the Perseid Shower).
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| Photo: Scott Stevens |
Then, we got up early the next morning to do what you do when you go to the Bells - watch the sunrise.
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| No color yet |
As the sun rises, the Bells turn from maroon to brilliant orange and gold.
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| There it is |
Luckily, the wind was low, so the surface of the lake was like glass.
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| Transition |
As the sun came up, we spotted some mountain goats on the cliffs flanking the valley.
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| Mountain Goats |
And, every time I thought the sunrise was over, the Bells changed colors and the show went on.
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| More color |
As it got lighter, I noticed a guy at the end of the lake photographing the Moose (at, in my opinion, way too close range).
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| Yikes! |
But, since the Moose seemed fairly calm, I slowly walked over to get some closer shots (but NOT as close as the guy).
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| Still calm |
But, as I took shots, the Moose turned and started toward the path (with a look of serious intent).
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| On the move |
So, the two other women who were with me and I took off running down the path ...
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| The photo says it all |
... which was shrouded by willows. We couldn't see, but we heard the Moose coming. I ran up to a higher trail where I could see that he had stopped to eat some more willow. Whew!
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| Calm again |
So, turning my attention back to the lake, I saw that two Beavers were out and about ...
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| Moving across the lake |
... swimming, eating and diving ...
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| Underwater |
After a campsite breakfast and a brief rainstorm, we went back to the Bells, where I took a hike up to Crater Lake, which is about 1.8 miles with a 500 foot elevation gain to about 10,000 feet. The trail starts in dense aspens ...
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| Aspens |
... has beautiful views of Maroon Lake below ...
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| Just a glimpse of the lake |
... traverses rocks ...
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| Actually fairly easy hiking |
... and offers great views of the Bells.
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| So pretty |
Then, Crater Lake comes into view. It has sweeping views of the mountains, a primitive campground and access to trail that go through the pass and beyond. Many of the people I passed on the trail were going up or coming back.
I get backpacks, but why people would lug coolers up that trail mystifies me. I get the beer is worth the pain.
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| Crater Lake |
In addition to the hikers, there were a lot of people picnicking and a few fishing.
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| Another view |
It's a relatively quick trip for another perspective of the Maroon Bells.
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| Wide view |
Then, I headed back down. As you can see, the trail - while not difficult - does require vigilance because it is very rocky. I do believe the Rocky Mountains are aptly named.
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| Trail |
Then, Maroon Lake came back into view.
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| The lake from above |
On the way back to camp, a Marmot posed for a few pictures!
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| Yellow-bellied Marmot |
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| A closer look |
Then, we went exploring, driving out Castle Peak Road ...
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| The whole area is beautiful |
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| Old Post Office |
... and visiting the Ashcroft Ghost Town.
Ashcroft was formed in 1880 by Leadville prospectors who discovered silver in the valley. They built a courthouse and laid out the streets in just two weeks, financed by a 97-member miners cooperative that cost $5 to join.
After a major silver strike, the town blossomed to 3,500 people.
Ashcroft, home to two newspapers, a school, sawmills, a small smelter, six hotels and 20 saloons, was larger than Aspen and closer to the railroad in Crested Butte.
After a richer strike in Aspen, Ashcroft residents began moving there, leaving just a few old men in town, the last of whom died in 1939, making Ashcroft a ghost town.
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| Ashcroft |
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| Photo: Scott Stevens |
In 1948, a dogsledder named Stuart Mace moved to Ashcroft. From 1955-58, he, his dogs and the town were featured in the television series Sgt. Preston of the Yukon. The town was fitted with false fronts for filming. Mace devoted the rest of his life to protecting the area and restoring the ecology. The Aspen Historical Society helped Ashcroft make it to the National Register of Historic Places in 1975. Now, it is being restored and costs $5 to visit.
We ended the evening with dinner and a trip back to the Bells, where the Beavers put on a real show (and no Moose to be found)!
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| A great show |
Trip date: August 3-7, 2014
