The Pueblo Blanco of Grazalema

All the houses are white-washed

Throughout Andalusia, there are small towns referred to as pueblos blanco -- or "white villages." They often sit on mountainsides, making them charming to view from afar.

Pretty town

Many cultures left their mark on Andalusia, but the most influential was that of the Moors. The narrow, winding streets in these towns have a distinctly Arabic feel to them. 

Tiny, curving streets

But, each village has at least one Roman Catholic church. 

San Jose Catholic Church

There is evidence that the majority of the pueblos blanco were not whitewashed before the 1920s; instead the houses were a variety of colors, primarily red and yellow. However, Dictator Miguel Primo de Rivera directed local leaders to suppress differences in villagers' choices by allowing only white houses. Now, this look has become iconic to Andalusia.

A dictated look

I had considered visiting both Ronda and Grazalema, but with our stop in El Coronil, we decided to go to Grazalema and decide on Ronda later.

Rough terrain

Located in northeastern Cádiz in the foothills of the Sierra del Pinar mountain range (Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park), Grazalema is thought to have originated as a Roman villa. 

During Muslim rule, the area was populated by Berbers. With the Christian conquest in 1485, Zagrazalema, as it was called at the time, became part of the lands of the Ponce de León. It became economically important in the 17th century because of the beautiful shawls it produced. 

During the War of Independence, Grazalema suffered attacks and sieges from the Napoleonic troops that partially destroyed the village. Grazalema's population is under 3,000.

Traditionally, the economy of the village was generated by small-scale agriculture, sheep herding, cork harvesting and handicrafts, like hand-weaving lambswool cloth and furniture-making. Tourism now plays a major role in sustaining the village and its people. 

People come to see this

The drive was spectacular -- the area became increasingly mountainous dotted with brilliantly blue lakes ...

You can see the lake in the lower righthand corner

... herds of sheep on mountainsides ... 

Sheep

... goats grazing in flower-filled fields ... 

Goats; Photo: Scott Stevens

... some very happy to pose for us ...

Goats love to climb

... and huge rock outcroppings ...

Very rugged

The town, itself, is breathtaking from afar.

You can see it up on the hill

After stopping to photograph it from every possible angle, we went into town to explore. It is equally lovely up close. 

                        

Yes, it has become a tourist mecca, but tastefully so. It has cobblestone streets ...

Quaint

... and flowers everywhere ...

So pretty against the white walls

... in entryways, windows, walls and roofs ...

Everywhere! Left photo: Scott Stevens

Like most of Spain, there are tiles galore and lots of wrought iron ...

Lots of character

... statues ...

Two views of a statue celebrating the annual bull run

... and cafes ...

Fortunately, it was lunchtime!

We stopped to further explore tapas. We found an outdoor cafe by a church ...

Nice under the umbrellas; Photo: Scott Stevens

... that also had a very charming bar ...

Very Spanish looking; Photo: Scott Stevens

This time, we ordered gazpacho (the delicious cold pureed vegetable soup for which Andalusia is known), salmorejo (a yummy heartier version of gazpacho that has cream added and an - unfortunate for me - garnish of ham and hard-boiled eggs), croquettes ...

Delicious; Left photo: Scott Stevens

We also ordered albondigas (meatballs) ... 

Menu

The last was primarily because one of the few words I remembered from my six-week Spanish rotation in junior high was "albondigas." But, alas, they had no albondigas, so Scott ordered rabo del toro (bull's tail stew -- also called oxtail stew). Although somewhat fatty, it was tender and tasty.

A very tasty dish

Following lunch, we explored further, going up to what I thought was an ancient castle, but was actually a recreation area and terrace (although I think the lower wall that we could see from afar was part of the original city).

Mainly for the locals

It offered a lovely view of the town ...

Another pretty vista

... and the rugged area nearby ...

Pretty landscape

Then, on we went down a second narrow road heading the other direction. 

Leaving town

We passed through more beautiful countryside ...

Hills and mountains

... and saw some corks trees that had been recently harvested ...

That's where you get cork

Although we had heard Ronda was lovely, it seemed much larger and more modernized, so we pressed on.

Our time in Grazalema was peaceful and felt truly Spanish.

The expression lies; he loved it

See more below.

Trip date: April 25-May 15, 2015