Fado

One of the biggest treats of our visit to Lisbon was dinner and entertainment at Clube de Fado.

One of Lisbon's premier Fado clubs; Photo: Scott Stevens

Located in the Alfama neighborhood, it is in a lovely old building with columns, arches and  an arched ceiling. 

Two levels. Photo: Scott Stevens

In the corner (where we sat), there is an ancient Moorish well that looks charming, but emits a somewhat musty odor.

Cozy

The dinner starts with complimentary appetizers.

Olives, sausages and fried asparagus; Right photo: Scott Stevens

Then, Scott had a green soup (greens and garlic) and I had asparagus soup, followed by a meat dish for Scott and sole for me. Dessert was a delicious layered cake (the "Guitarists Special).

Oh my!

But, the real treat was the Fado, Portugal's distinctive signature music.

Dark and moody

Fado can be traced to the 1820s, but is probably much older. It is a form of song characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sentiment of resignation, fatefulness and melancholia. The word comes from the Latin word “fatum,” also the root of the English word "fate.” 

It is very moving

Fado uses rubato, where the music pauses at the end of a phrase and the singer holds the note for dramatic effect. Fado performers in the middle of the 19th century also danced, but, during the second half of the 19th century, African rhythms that influenced Fado became less important and the performers became strictly singers (fadistas).

The guitarist, left, and the male singer, right

We were entertained by three female and one male singer/guitarist plus a fabulous guitarist. The entertainment came between courses and was performed in a corner of the restaurant with no stage and no microphones. The lighting was blood red.

To listen, click here.

Trip date: April 25-May 15, 2015