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Light through the stained glass |
The most iconic building in Barcelona is Antoni Gaudi's immense, but still unfinished, Basilica of the
Sagrada Família (the Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família), which
has been under construction since 1882 and is financed by private donations.
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Perpetual construction |
I visited with Craig and Cheri. If you go, do what we did -- buy tickets in advance. Entries are timed and the wait was over two hours for the people who were in line when we got there.
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Cheri, Craig and I went; Scott didn't |
Gaudí devoted his last years to the project, and at the time
of his death at age 73 (he was hit by a tram on a Barcelona street) in 1926, less than a quarter of the project was
complete. Currently, completion is planned for approximately 2026.
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His dream is being slowly realized |
Josep Maria Bocabella, a bookseller who founded the
Asociación Espiritual de Devotos de San José (Spiritual Association of Devotees
of St. Joseph), was inspired to build the Sagrada Família after a visit to the
Vatican in 1872.
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St. Joseph plays prominently in the church |
Bocabella raised funds and hired architect Francisco de Paula del
Villar, who designed and began construction on the apse (a large semicircular
or polygonal recess in a church, arched or with a domed roof, typically at the
eastern end, and usually containing the altar) in 1882. His plan was for a
Gothic revival church of a standard form, but when he resigned a year later and
Gaudí took over, the plan changed radically.
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A crazy mix of styles |
After Gaudí's death, work continued until it was interrupted
by the Spanish Civil War, when parts of the unfinished basilica and Gaudí's
models and workshop were destroyed by Catalan anarchists.
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The design is based on reconstructed versions of Gaudí's plan with modern adaptations |
Computer-aided design has accelerated construction, which had been
expected to last for several hundred years, based on building techniques available
in the early 20th century. Current technology allows stone to be shaped
off-site by a milling machine, whereas in the 20th century, the stone was
carved by hand.
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Intricate designs |
In mid-2010, the nave was covered and an organ installed,
allowing the still unfinished building to be used for religious services. Pope
Benedict XVI consecrated the church the same year.
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Something different everywhere you look |
While never intended to be a cathedral (seat of a bishop),
the Sagrada Família was planned to be cathedral-sized.
Like many European
Gothic cathedrals, it is short compared to its width and has a great complexity
of parts. Where it is common for cathedrals in Spain to be surrounded by
numerous chapels and ecclesiastical buildings, the plan of this church has an
unusual feature: a covered cloister that forms a rectangle enclosing the church
and passing through each of its three portals.
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Outside view |
Gaudí's design calls for 18 spires, representing in
ascending height the Twelve Apostles, the Virgin Mary, the four Evangelists
and, tallest of all, Jesus Christ. Eight spires have been built.
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Distant view |
The church
will have three grand façades: the Nativity Façade to the east ...
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Looks like a sand castle |
... the Passion Façade to the west ...
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Cubist-looking |
... and the Glory Façade to the south ...
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Masked by lots of scaffolding |
The Nativity Façade was
built before work was interrupted in 1936 and bears the most direct Gaudí
influence. The Passion Façade was begun in 1954 and the towers, built over the
elliptical plan, were finished in 1976. The Glory Façade will be the largest and most monumental.
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Glory Façade construction began in 2002 |
Characteristic of Gaudí's naturalistic style, the Nativity Façade
is decorated with images from nature.
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Lots and lots of nature! |
A turtle or tortoise (one to represent
land and the other sea) is found at the base of each portico and chameleons (symbolic
of change) are on either side.
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One panel even has a turkey! |
The façade faces the rising sun, a symbol for
the birth of Christ, and is divided into three porticos, each representing a
theological virtue (Hope, Faith and Charity).
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Nativity scenes |
There's a dove above the door ...
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It looks both ancient and modern |
The ornate door, looks like it is covered with ivy that crawls up to the top ...
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This looks realistic |
Four towers complete the façade, each
dedicated to a Saint (Matthias the Apostle, Saint Barnabas, Jude the Apostle
and Simon the Zealot) ...
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Don't ask which is which |
Gaudí chose this façade to embody the structure and
decoration of the whole church because he knew that he would not live to finish
the church and he wanted to set an artistic and architectural example for
others to follow.
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Three Wise Men |
In contrast to the highly decorated Nativity Façade, the
Passion Façade is austere with bare stone carved with harsh straight lines that
resemble bones.
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Dramatic departure |
Dedicating the façade to the Passion of Christ (the suffering
of Jesus during his crucifixion), Gaudí intended it to portray the sins of man
and to strike fear in onlookers. He wanted to "break" arcs and
"cut" columns, and to use the effect of chiaroscuro (dark angular
shadows contrasted by harsh rigid light) to further show the severity and
brutality of Christ's sacrifice.
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This is designed to be disturbing |
Facing the setting sun, indicative and
symbolic of the death of Christ, the façade is supported by six large inclined
columns, designed to resemble sequoia trunks. Above there is a pyramidal
pediment, made up of eighteen bone-shaped columns that culminate in a large
cross with a crown of thorns. Each of the four towers is dedicated to an
apostle (James, Thomas, Philip or Bartholomew) and, like the Nativity Façade,
there are three porticos, each representing the theological virtues, but in a
much different light.
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Two views |
The door on the Passion Façade is very abstract, quite a contrast to the Nativity door, which is quite literal ...
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Left: Passion; Right: Nativity |
The largest and most striking of the façades will be the
Glory Façade, which will be the principal façade and offer access to the
central nave. Dedicated to the Celestial Glory of Jesus, it represents the road
to God: Death, Final Judgment and Glory, while Hell is left for those who
deviate from God's will. The Glory Portico will be reached via a large
staircase with decoration representing Hell and vice. It will have seven large
columns dedicated to spiritual gifts, at the base of which will be representations
of the Seven Deadly Sins, and at the top, The Seven Heavenly Virtues.
Completion of the Glory Façade will require demolition of the complete block of
buildings.
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Sagrada familia dominates the skyline |
The church is laid out as a Latin cross with five aisles.
The central nave vaults reach 150 feet and the side nave vaults reach 10 feet.
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Windows tower above a confessional |
The
transept (in a cross-shaped church, either of the two parts forming the arms of
the cross shape) has three aisles with columns on a 25 foot grid. The columns of
the apse, resting on del Villar's foundation, do not adhere to the grid,
requiring a section of columns of the ambulatory to transition to the grid
creating a horseshoe pattern.
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Panoramic of the church |
The central vault reaches 200 feet and the apse is
capped by a vault reaching 250 feet. Gaudí intended that a visitor standing at the
main entrance see the graduated increase in vault loft of the nave, crossing
and apse.
The columns of the interior are a unique Gaudí design.
Besides branching to support their load, their ever-changing surfaces are the
result of the intersection of various geometric forms. For example, one has a
square base that evolves into an octagon as the column rises, then a
sixteen-sided form and, eventually, a circle.
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Ceiling detail |
None of the interior surfaces are
flat; the ornamentation consists of abstract shapes that combine smooth curves
and jagged points. |
Curves and angles |
The organ installed in 2010 has 26 stops (1,492 pipes) on
two manuals and a pedalboard. To overcome the acoustical challenges posed by
the church's size, several additional organs will be installed throughout the
building. These instruments will be playable separately from their own individual
consoles and simultaneously from a single mobile console, yielding an 8000-pipe
organ when completed.
The interior is filled with beautiful stained glass windows ...
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The windows bring light into dark halls |
The windows look very traditional from a distance, but they are rather abstract upon close inspection ...
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They leave beautiful shadows on the wall |
The building is full of interesting details, including designs of the ceiling ...
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Strange designs |
... embedded mosaics ...
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This might say something |
... statues ...
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Left: St. Joseph; Right: abstract statue by Gaudi |
... designs on the floor ...
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Palm Sunday motif |
Under the nave is a private chapel and crypt ...
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Gaudi is buried here |
There is also a workshop ...
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Here you can see lots of prototypes |
... and museum ...
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The museum has lots of models |
On the grounds is also the Sagrada Família Schools, which were constructed in 1909 for the children of the workers building the church. Other children of the neighborhood attended, especially from the underprivileged classes.
The building contains three classrooms, a hall and a chapel. It has a brick facade, in three overlapping layers, following the Catalan technical tradition.
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Classroom |
Both the walls and the roof have a wavy form, giving the structure a sensation of lightness but, at the same time, great strength.
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The school blends well with the church |
I must admit that the Sagrada Familia isn't really my style ...
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Much reminds me of modern churches built in the 60s |
But, it is certainly fascinating.
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Fascinating and weird |
And some parts were beautiful.
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Stunning! |
Trip date: April 25-May 15, 2015
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