If I Were Going...: The Alhambra and the Generalife

The Alhambra

The main reason we visited Grenada was to see the Alhambra, the spectacular Moorish city on a hill above Granada.

Since it is so large and so popular, I made reservations for a Viator "skip the lines" tour, which was billed as having pick-up between 9:15 and 9:45. When I called to set up hotel pick-up, the said they would be there at 10:00 and then they were a little late. Once we drove up the hill to the Alhambra tour staging area, it was still another 30 minutes or more -- a very confusing, disorganized 30 minutes -- until we went in the gates. Despite the slow start, I am glad we took the tour. The Alhambra is large and complex and I am not even sure you can access all areas if you are not on a tour.

It is really something

I learned a lot on the tour and will try to impart some of the information. I must apologize for the number of pictures, but everywhere you turn is magnificent.

I have never seen anything like it

The area, which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984, is a Nasrid "palace city" developed in the 11th century as a walled town, possibly on the foundations of either older buildings. In the 13th century, with the arrival of the first Nasrid monarch, it became palace, citadel and fortress, and was the residence of the Nasrid sultans and their senior officials, including servants of the court and elite soldiers.

The Alhambra has gardens and views

Even after most of Spain had defeated the Muslims, Granada remained a Nasrid stronghold. It was not until 1492, when it became evident to the Nasrids that they would not be able to hold off the Christians forever, that the reigning sultan surrendered the Alhambra to Ferdinand and Isabella, the Reyes Católicos ("Catholic Monarchs").

Moorish designs

Today, it is a major tourist attraction, but parts are still a town with residences and hotels.

There was an almost-hundred-year pause in maintenance of the Alhambra starting in the 18th century and, during French domination, substantial portions of the fortress were blown apart. The repair, restoration and conservation that continues to this day did not begin until the 19th century. Interestingly, it was American Author Washington Irving who stirred Spanish enthusiasm for preserving the Alhambra with his book, Tales of the Alhambra, a collection of essays, verbal sketches, and stories. Irving lived in the palace while writing the book.

Ceiling

First, we visited the Generalife (literally, "Architect's Garden"), a garden attached to the Alhambra that served as a recreation area for the Muslim kings. Built 1302-1309, the gardens were redecorated in 1313-1324, making it difficult to know the original appearance of the Generalife.

With a good climate, the outdoors were important

The area was also used to grow crops to feed the inhabitants of the Alhambra.

The complex consists of the Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel or Water-Garden Courtyard), which has a long pool framed by flowerbeds, fountains, colonnades and pavilions and the Jardín de la Sultana (Sultana's Garden or Courtyard of the Cypress). The former is thought to best preserve the style of the medieval Persian garden in the ancient Iberian Muslim realm of Al-Andalus.

Cool and green

The gardens underscore how good the Moors were at dealing with hot, dry climates. Even with an intense sun, the Generalife gardens seem calm and cool.

The only remaining cypress tree from the early gardens is in the center

In addition to lush gardens and fountains, the Generalife houses a summer palace – which seems odd since it is within sight of the main Alhambra palaces. But, it was used as a retreat from the tedium of official palace life.

A beautiful ceiling and arches

The palace is lovely, showcasing some extraordinary plaster and tile work. Since Islam prohibits artistic representation of humans, the designs are restricted to geometric designs, flora and inscriptions. This lends itself well to plaster detailing – which was created using templates that were pressed into wet plaster.

Plaster detail

The Generalife is separated from the Alhambra by a set of inner walls and a ravine that is now crossed via a bridge. After leaving the Generalife, we passed the foundations of the ancient village, where artisans and servants lived.

Old foundations

This is also the site of Parador de Granada, a hotel housed in the former Convento de San Francisco.

It would be interesting to stay there

After passing through the Torre del Vino (Wine Tower) ...

Pretty windows

Palace

... we saw the Palace of Charles V.

After the conquest of Granada, Ferdinand and Isabella altered some palace rooms and lived part of the time in the Alhambra, but they didn’t construct any major buildings.

Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, however, wanted to construct a permanent residence befitting an emperor and, in 1527, he tore down some buildings and built his palace, which was not really completed until much later.

The complex currently includes the Museum of the Alhambra, with objects mainly from the site of the monument itself and the Museum of Fine Arts.

The courtyard by the museum

Although the Alhambra was built with additions over many years, each new section that was added followed the consistent theme of "paradise on earth."

Intricate patterns

Column arcades, fountains with running water and reflecting pools were used to add to the aesthetic and functional complexity. In every case, the exterior was left plain and austere.

Relatively plain

Blue, red and a golden yellow, all somewhat faded through lapse of time and exposure, are the colors chiefly employed.

Colors

The decoration consists, as a rule, of Arabic inscriptions ....

Arabic design

... that are manipulated into geometrical patterns ...

Shapes

... wrought into arabesques.

Amazing

Painted tiles are largely used as paneling for the walls.

Nice paneling

The palace complex is designed in the Mudéjar style, which is characteristic of western elements reinterpreted into Islamic forms and widely popular during the Reconquista.

Looking up

Ceilings are ornate ...

Looking further up

... as are beams ...

Incredible

... and arches ...

This one appears to have been filled in (but the arch wasn't sacrificed)

The design included plans for six palaces, five of which were grouped in the northeast quadrant forming a royal quarter, two circuit towers, and numerous bathhouses.

The Alhambra's most westerly feature is the Alcazaba (citadel), a strongly fortified position.

The roof is maze

All that remains are its massive outer walls, towers and ramparts, including the 85 ft. high Torre de la Vela. A turret containing a large bell was added in the 18th century and restored after being damaged by lightning in 1881.

Torre de la Vela ("Candle Tower")

We climbed up for magnificent vistas.

The city of Granada

Below, on the Plaza de Armas, is a bath house/steam room and foundations from the soldiers’ garrison.

Old baths

The Royal Complex consists of three main parts: Mexuar, Serallo, and the Harem. The Mexuar is modest in decor and houses the functional areas for conducting business and administration. Strapwork is used to decorate the surfaces in Mexuar.

Dark wood ceilings, floors and trim are sharp contrast to white plaster walls

Serallo, built during the reign of Yusuf I in the 14th century, contains the Patio de los Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles).

Perfection

Brightly colored interiors feature tile panels ...

More of those basic colors

... highly decorative ceilings ...

Beautiful patterns

... and other woodwork.

Something different everywhere you look

The Harem is also elaborately decorated and contains the living quarters for the wives and mistresses of the Berber monarchs. The fretwork in windows allow residents to look out without being seen.

Dramatic privacy

The Salón de los Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors) is the largest in the Alhambra and occupies all the Torre de Comares. It is a square room, the sides being 37 ft. in length, while the center of the dome is 23 75 ft. high.

High windows

This was the grand reception room, and the throne of the sultan was placed opposite the entrance. It was in this setting that Christopher Columbus received Isabel and Ferdinand's support to sail to the New World. The tiles are nearly 4 ft. high all round, and the colors vary at intervals. Over them is a series of oval medallions with inscriptions, interwoven with flowers and leaves.

Ornate design

There are nine windows, three on each facade, and the ceiling is decorated with white, blue and gold inlays in the shape of circles, crowns and stars. The walls are covered with varied stucco works, surrounding many ancient escutcheons.

Looking up

It contains the only original floor tiles in the Alhambra.

Very old tiles

The Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones) is an oblong courtyard, 116 ft. by 66 ft., surrounded by a low gallery supported on 124 white marble columns.

Another courtyard

A pavilion projects into the court at each extremity, with filigree walls and a light domed roof.

Three consecutive arches

The square is paved with colored tiles and the colonnade with white marble, while the walls are covered 5 ft. up from the ground with blue and yellow tiles, with a border above and below of enameled blue and gold. Colors are original; restored areas are not enameled.

Original colors

The columns supporting the roof and gallery are irregularly placed. They are adorned by varieties of foliage; about each arch there is a large square of stucco arabesques; and over the pillars is another stucco square of filigree work.