Unfortunately, we didn't really allow enough time for Seville, but the time we spent there was well worth it.
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| One of Spain's great cities |
It's tough as I blog to start discovering the things we didn't see -- and I have the most regrets about Seville -- because we didn't arrive until around noon, because we needed to do laundry and because it was too hot to rush about.
We stayed at an apartment in the city, partially because it has a washer/dryer and Seville was about mid-way through the trip. Unfortunately it was one of those combo washer/dryers and each load took 3 1/2 hours and still did more wrinkling than drying. I think it just tumbled and heated, but didn't blow hot air. Based on my experience in Iceland and Spain, it's a miracle Europeans have clean clothes.
Still, the apartment had a fridge and was in a great location.
Seville, the capital and largest city of Andalusia and the
fourth-largest city in Spain, is situated on the plain of the River
Guadalquivir.
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| Guadalquivir River |
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| Moorish design |
The Seville harbor, 50 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, is the
only river port in Spain. Over 2,200 years old, Seville was founded as Roman
city (mythologically, it was founded by Hercules) and was known as Ishbiliya
after the Muslim conquest in 712. Seville remained Muslim longer than cities to the north, becoming Christian in 1248. In 1391, all Seville synagogues were closed and converted to churches. Plus, the Jewish quarter's land and shops (sited in modern-day 'Barrio Santa Cruz') were appropriated by the state.
Thousands were killed during the pogrom, while others were forced to convert.
After the discovery of the Americas, Seville’s port
monopolized trans-oceanic trade, making the town an economic hub. In 1519,
Ferdinand Magellan departed from Seville for the first circumnavigation of the
Earth. Coinciding with the Baroque period of European history, Seville’s
culture flowered in the 17th century; followed by a gradual economic and demographic
decline as silting in the Guadalquivir forced the trade monopoly to relocate to Cádiz.
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| Ornate facade |
Twentieth century in Seville endured the horrors of
the Spanish Civil War.
Many operas have been set in Seville, including Fidelio by Beethoven, The Marriage
of Figaro and Don Giovanni by Mozart,
The Barber of Seville by Rossini and Carmen by Bizet.
Parque de María Luisa and La Plaza de España
After a too-long stop for tapas, we got on a hop on/hop off bus and headed for my main goal to visit in Seville: the Parque de María Luisa and La Plaza de España.
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| La Plaza de España |
This area is absolutely stunning and the weather really made me want to visit an outside locale (in retrospect, we should have visited an establishment with fixed hours such as the Real Alcazar first and gone to the plark after hours).
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| Enjoying the sunshine; Photo: Scott Stevens |
The Maria Luisa Park (Parque de María Luisa) stretches along the Guadalquivir River and serves as Seville’s principal green area. Most of the park was formerly the gardens of the Palace of San Telmo that were donated to the city in 1893.
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| A green oasis |
In preparation for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 exhibition, the entire southern end of the city was redeveloped into an expanse of gardens and grand boulevards, with Parque de María Luisa at the center. The area has a half mile of tiled fountains, pavilions, walls, ponds, benches and exhedras (wall recesses).
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| Incredible bougainvillea |
The jewel of the exhibit is the lavish Plaza de España, which was designed to showcase Spain's industry and technology exhibits.
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| The big view |
It combines a mix of 1920s Art Deco, 'mock Mudejar' and Neo-Mudéjar styles. The Plaza de España complex is a huge half-circle with buildings continually running around the edge accessible over the moat by numerous bridges representing the four ancient kingdoms of Spain.
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| The bigger view |
In the center is the Vicente Traver fountain.
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| So grand |
By the walls of the Plaza are many tiled alcoves, each representing a different province of Spain.
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| A celebration of Spain |
The tile work is amazing ...
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| Everywhere you look is adorned |
... it is on the buildings and towers; even the balustrades ...
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| You have to look up and down |
... it's on the banisters ...
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| Incredible detail |
... floors ...
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| Tiles between tiles |
... columns ...
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| Tiles between the columns |
Plus, many ceilings are phenomenally ornate ...
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| Amazing |
Today the Plaza de España houses government buildings, including the Seville Town Hall.
In 1760, the damage was repaired and an upper cylindrical body was added.
In 1868, revolutionaries demolished the artistic surfaces of the walls and put them up for sale.
The citizens of Seville once again kept the tower from being destroyed, and it has had restoration work done in 1900, 1942-44 and 2005.
Cathedral
Although I didn't get to go in the main church because it was closed, I did see the outside of the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See (Catedral de Santa María de la Sede), better known as Seville Cathedral, which is the largest Gothic cathedral and the third-largest church in the world. It is also where Christopher Columbus is buried.
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| Buttresses and all |
I would have loved to see it. I did go in a side chapel that opens onto Avenida Constitucion, but I can't find the name of the chapel.
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| Just a chapel |
After its completion in the early 16th century, the Cathedral supplanted Hagia Sophia as the largest in the world, a title the Byzantine church had held for nearly a thousand years. Initial construction lasted from 1402 to 1506.
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| Another ornate entry |
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| So lovely |
In 1511, the dome collapsed and work recommenced. The dome again collapsed in 1888, and work was performed on the dome until at least 1903. The builders used some columns and other elements from the ancient mosque, including its minaret, which was converted into a bell tower known as La Giralda. The 350-foot-tall tower remains one of the most important symbols of the city, as it has been since medieval times.
The Real Alcázar
I also only got the chance to walk by the Real Alcázar, which was originally a Moorish fort.
The upper levels are still used by the royal family as the official Seville
residence, making it the oldest royal palace
still in use in Europe.
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| A royal arch |
Other Sights
As we drove around on the bus, we did see some others sights, including many modern buildings constructed for the Universal Exposition of Seville (Expo '92). The theme for the Expo was "The Age of Discovery" and over 100 countries were represented. As we traveled around Spain, it seems that many buildings were constructed for one exhibition or another. From the looks of it - and despite what the narration on the bus says -- it looks as if many of the Expo buildings are falling into disrepair.
Among the displays are a suspended character holding a beer mug and an is Ariane rocket ...
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| Not my favorite part of Seville |
We also drove through the Triana neighborhood ...
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| Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza Macarena |
... and the Macarena area, passing the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza Macarena (Our Lady of Hope Macarena), which has a lovely mosaic of the Virgin Mary on the archway.
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| Mosaics and bells |
Walking around, we were treated to Seville's gracious architecture, which looks like you expect a Spanish city to look.
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| Warmth emanates from the buildings |
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| Very colorful |
Flamenco
That night we had one of the biggest disappointments of the trip. I was really looking forward to seeing and photographing some authentic Flamenco, so we booked wine and tapas with a show at Tablao El Arenal. Our first disappointment -- no photography allowed. I can understand no flash, but seriously! Second disappointment -- inedible tapas (fishy ceviche, cold tortilla, tough dry ham, tougher and dryer meat cutlet of some type). Third disappointment -- Flamenco singing is really, really awful to listen to. It was interesting how arabic it sounds, but a little goes a looooooong way. Fourth disappointment -- no context or education was provided. They just sang, stomped and left the stage.
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| Toursisty |
I want to think it was bad because it was a tourist trap and that it is still possible to enjoy Flamenco, but I don't know how you do that. I originally was going to see Flamenco in the caves at Sacramonte in Granada (our next day's destination), but I have heard that is touristy as well.
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| Me, the tourist |
And, yes, I am a tourist. And, yes, my complaints about the quality of the music may underscore the reason things are changed up for tourists. But, if everything else had seemed real (like the Fado in Lisbon), I would have found the Flamenco engaging rather than annoying.
And, speaking of annoying, fellow tourists embarrass me. I mean, who thinks shorts and a ball cap is appropriate for an evening event in a historic venue? I guess we get what we deserve. But, I won't let that dampen my overall feeling about Seville.
And, considering that I think I missed a lot, it is amazing how many photos I got.
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| Pretty city |
Trip date: April 25-May 15, 2015
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