Granada

Next on the itinerary: Granada, site of the Alhambra, about which of have heard and read for years. 

Because the Alhambra is so amazing and I took so many pictures, I am splitting my blog into two parts (not necessarily chronological) and will cover the Alhambra in the next one. 

The Alhambra

Located at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains at the confluence of four rivers - the Beiro, Darro, Genil and Monachil - Granada sits at an average elevation of 2,500 ft. above sea level, yet is only one hour by car from the Mediterranean. The word "Granada," means pomegranate and the pomegranate tree is the city's symbol.

The city

In the distance, you can see Spain's highest mountains, the Sierra Nevada, which were still snow-covered in May.

The Sierra Nevada in the distance

The region surrounding Granada has been populated since at least 5500 B.C. and experienced Roman and Visigothic influences. In 1228, the Nasrids established the longest-lasting Muslim dynasty on the Iberian Peninsula. During the Reconquista, the Nasrids aligned themselves with Ferdinand III of Castile, officially becoming the Emirate of Granada in 1238. It allowed the area to remain a Muslim kingdom and coexist reasonably peacefully with Christian Spain. Granada provided connections with the Muslim and Arab trade centers, particularly for gold, silk and dried fruits. 

Moorish influence

In 1492, the last Muslim ruler in Iberia surrendered to Ferdinand II and Isabella I, with terms that allowed the city's Muslim inhabitants to continue unmolested in the practice of their faith and customs, known as Mudéjar. By 1499, however, Spain began to force Christian baptisms, in direct violation of the terms of the treaty. When Muslims revolted, the Castilian Crown rescinded the treaty and mandated that Granada's Muslims convert or emigrate. Many of the elite class immigrated to North Africa, but the majority stayed to convert. They were subject to persecution, execution or exile, and each had cells that practiced their original religion in secrecy.

Over the course of the 16th century, Granada took on an ever more Catholic character, as immigrants came to the city from other parts of the Iberian Peninsula. The city's mosques were destroyed or converted to Christian churches.

Then the Catholics took over

We arrived in the early afternoon and had to drive up narrow streets to our hotel, the Alhambra Palace, that was advertised as being "right outside the gates of the Alhambra." 

A wonderful hotel

I had envisioned being able to walk about the Alhambra in the evening (parts of the Alhambra are accessible "after hours" because it is an actual town), but it wasn't quite as close as I thought . We could have walked up there if we had wanted to. Instead, we explored down the hill. The hotel decor was over-the-top Mudéjar.

The hotel used to be a casino

Our spacious room had spectacular views ...

From our balcony

 ... and an very fancy tiled bathroom ...

You wouldn't want to come back drunk

The whole hotel was marvelous.

So elegant

The first evening, we decided to have tapas on the patio overlooking the city. I had a Spanish cheese plate, we shared a tomato salad and Scott had a plate of tapas that he declared the most delicious plate of food he had ever eaten. 

Beautiful and delicious

He loved the pate, which I didn't taste. But, the highlight was the tenderest small steak I have ever tasted sitting on a bed or caramelized onion and toast. 

Superior food in a country where all the food is good; Photo: Scott Stevens

Yum. That and martinis for Scott and sangria for me resulted in a short evening and much-needed sleep.

The next morning, we toured the Alhambra (see next blog). After the tour, I did some exploring, walking down a footpath/stairs from the hotel to the old city below. Obviously, we were high up on a hill, so it is a pretty steep path down to town. The pathway/stairs was a great solution. It passed many lovely homes and "carmens" (villas with gardens), which are common in that part of Granada.

A nice walk

I didn't have a particular destination, just a stroll around in the warm afternoon. In the square between Gran Vía de Colón and Calle Reyes Católicos shows Columbus talking to Queen Isabella who, on April 17, 1492, three months after taking Granada, gave her permission for the westward voyage of discovery. 

They love Isabella and Columbus

As in everywhere we went in Spain, we saw lots of wrought iron balconies adorned in flowers.

It's not unusual to see kitties in the flowers

One of the sights of Granada is the Cathedral of Granada, which was built over the Nasrid Great Mosque of Granada in the center of the city. Construction began in the early 16th century. Conceived on the model of the Cathedral of Toledo, it was initially a Gothic architectural project that was later changed to a fully Renaissance design. 

Cathedral of Granada

Another interesting part of Granada is the Sacromonte, a neighborhood on one of the hills that make up Granada, and is the old neighborhood of the Romani (gypsies), who settled in Granada after the conquest of the city. It is picturesque, with whitewashed caves cut into the rock and used as residences – and as clubs where flamenco is performed. 

We couldn't figure out how to go there

That evening, we decided that it was time to try some authentic Spanish paella. Scott found La Parrala Paella Restobar, a small restaurant specializing in paella, online. We took a cab (although it turned out that it was close enough to walk), which took us almost there. The street it was on was too narrow for a cab. We had a little difficulty finding it because it has only a tiny sign on the door and the people at the bar not ten steps away had never heard of it.

Perfect!

The restaurant also has live entertainment. This evening it was a flamenco guitarist who was very good. Unlike the flamenco in Seville, this was soothing background music, played with a lot of emotion.

We started by sharing a fabulous roasted vegetable salad. The dried tomatoes were unbelievable.

A photo-worthy dinner; Photos: Scott Stevens

Then, we had a mixed paella. It was beautiful and tasty -- although, I must admit, I prefer the paella Scott makes at home. The best part is the crunchy rice around the edges and the pimientos -- I absolutely love pimientos and ate them almost every day in Spain.

If you go to Granada, seek out this lovely restaurant. You will not regret it.

Good music, too

Out for the evening

After dinner, we decided to walk for awhile, which resulted in a magical evening. 

First, the weather was perfect. After a long winter and longer spring, it is nice to finally not need a jacket at night. 

Second, it was a Friday night, so lots was going on. People were walking and gathering a tapas bars.

We walked by the Royal Chapel of Granada, which was bathed in beautiful lighting. 

A nice night scene

This chapel is where Isabella (1451-1504) and Ferdinand (1452-1516) are buried and, based on pictures I have seen of the tombs, I really need to go back to Granada to visit when the chapel is open. 

Inside: Photo: GetYourGuide.com

The chapel was constructed between 1505 and 1517 in the Gothic style and dedicated to St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist. In addition to Ferdinand and Isabella, it is also the burial place of Their daughter Queen Juana I (1479-1555), her husband Felipe I (1478-1506) and their son Miguel da Paz, Prince of Asturias, Portugal and Girona (1498--1500).

Just some touristy shots

As we were taking pictures of the chapel, we heard some very surreal, new age music from just around the corner. We thought it was a concert, but it was a fashion show.

Lots of hats

It was a very different twist on an ancient city.

Magic! Right photo: Scott Stevens

We also passed street musicians ...

Performing on a warm evening

... and outdoor cafes ...

Lots of fun

... before we walked up the hill ... 

A long climb after a long day

... to our hotel.

Home!

One of the most interesting things about the evening is that the sounds of Friday night revelry drifted up the hill. So, as we fell asleep, we could hear gentle tinkling of glasses, clinking of silverware and conversations. Because it was muted, it was really quite soothing. 

And, it lasted until the rooster began crowing at dawn. Really.

Trip date: April 25-May 15, 2015