Rugged Coast, Lava Fields and a Pig Glacier

A beautiful destination

After a crazy night of storms, we weren’t overly optimistic about our next day’s activities. We were driving to Scott’s favorite place in Iceland, Jökulsárlón. 

But, before getting there, we made a few stops. 

Dyrhólaey

We started at Dyrhólaey, about 25 miles east. Like all these stops, we had been there before. Several times.

A favorite spot

Same place on a sunnier day in 2021

But, wouldn't you go back?

A volcanic peninsula and nature reserve on the South Coast east of Vík, Dyrhólaey is famous for its massive naturally formed sea arch, black sand beach and dramatic panoramic views. 

Black sand and black rocks (oh, and a Glaucous Gull,too)

Dyrholaey was formed by an underwater/subglacial volcanic eruption approximately 80,000 to 100,000 years ago during the late Pleistocene (last Ice Age). This eruption created a volcanic island made of basalt and tuff that emerged from the sea, similar to the formation of the island of Surtsey in Vestmannaeyjar. Although it was originally an island, it is now attached by a relatively thin strip of land that emerged as ocean levels dropped. 

You can see how the lava from created the land mass.

A mass of cooled lava juts out over the shore

And, you can see how the ocean carved the cliffs.

The black sand is finely eroded lava

It was windy and slightly rainy, so photo ops were limited, except, of course, for catching the waves pounding against the lava rock cliffs.

I've actually seen it more dramatic than this on a sunnier day

It was, however, clear enough to see the lava rock promontory that holds an arch large enough for boats to sail through and, in some cases, small airplanes to fly through. In this wind, no one was attempting either.

It's too shadowed to make out the big arch, but you can see a smaller second arch

The photos from 2015 (top) and 2017 show the bigger arch much better

The area is also famous for its 1927 Lighthouse. We had photographed it on a sunnier day in 2017, so we didn’t even go up to see it this time.

Better day, better view, longer walk

We noticed that, although we couldn’t remember exactly how the roads and parking areas used to be laid out, Dyrhólaey was quite a bit different from our last visit. I believe you now park a bit farther from the water’s edge and have to walk a bit longer. The trade off is a nicer lot and nicer trails.

Plus, photos with no cars in them

The wind kept howling and the rain was getting worse, so it was challenging to take photos.

Scott's cell phone was a bit easier to handle than my long lens

Eventually, we had to move on. We had planned to try to see Reynisfjara again after it was too windy two days earlier.

The Reynisdrangar sea stacks of Reynisfjara in the distance

But, this day the weather was even worse as we rounded the mountain between Dyrhólaey and Vík, so we just kept going.

I marked Reynisfjara on the map to provide perspective on where we visited (and didn't)

I mentioned earlier that Vík produced the worst weather of the trip. Well, a lot of it was on this day. With the wind, rain and cold (I don’t think I mentioned cold, but it was), we plowed on.

We didn't go back because it was worse than this

Eldhraun Lava Field

Finally, the rain stopped and we were able to do a tiny bit of sightseeing.

A clearer sky over the lava fields

We stopped to explore the Eldhraun Lava Field just west of Kirkjubæjarklaustur. It has a nice parking area, some trails and some interpretive signs. 

Yes, it's a stop to look at the ground

The world's largest volcanic flow of its kind, Eldhraun covers 218 square miles. Unlike some other parts of Iceland where lava flows are predominantly sharp, black rock, Eldhraun is bumpy terrain covered in thick green moss. 

An extremely fragile environment

The flow was created by the catastrophic 1783-1784 Laki eruption, which lasted for eight months and released massive amounts of toxic sulphur dioxide gas and lava. 

Laki then; Illustration: Grunge

Laki today; Photo: Wikipedia

The eruption caused widespread famine and livestock loss in Iceland.

But, it may have had a broader effect. The Laki eruption triggered years of extreme weather. The sulphur dioxide gas caused a persistent haze that blocked sunlight and lowered temperatures across Europe. 

Sulphur cloud, Bardarbunga volcano, Iceland; Photo: Ragnar Th Sigurdsson

The immediate aftermath was intense heat and thunderstorms, heavy hailstorms and flooding in the summer of 1783. This was followed by an exceptionally severe, long winter in 1783-1784, which included nearly a month of continuous frost. Widespread crop failures, livestock deaths and famine in France crippled the food supply and exacerbated economic hardship, laying a critical foundation for popular unrest and revolution in 1789.

Left: Storming the Bastille, unknown; Right: Liberty Leading the People, Eugène Delacroix

Even after the climate settled down, the land was changed forever. Slowly, the sharp, raw rock was covered with a woolly fringe moss that takes up to 100 years to grow. But, even with the soft green covering the landscape is harsh. The Apollo 11 crew trained there in 1969 due to its moon-like surface.

Apollo 11 training; Photo: Werner Hoffman

Waterfalls

After that brief stop, we detoured to take a look at a couple of waterfalls, as one does in on the South Coast.

Systrafoss, in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, is a 226-foot-high double waterfall that doesn’t actually fall, but, rather flows down giant rocks.

Double the flow

Its name translates to "Waterfall of the Sisters," which I thought came from the fact that there are two falls side by side.

Nope! The name comes from a legend about two nuns who tried to seize a golden comb from a hand reaching out of the lake at the base of the waterfall, leading to them being dragged under and drowned. Mine explanation was a bit sunnier. Theirs a bit more Nordic.

Foss a Sidu, a little further east, is a 98-foot-high ribbon waterfall cascading over basalt cliffs. You have to view it from the road because it is on private property. The waterfall flows from the lake Þórutjörn down to a historic farm that has been inhabited since the 9th century.

Imagine a private waterfall

Due to its low water volume and high elevation, strong winds can sometimes make the water appear to flow upwards or sway in the air.

Svínafellsjökull

Next, we drove for about an hour before stopping at Svínafellsjökull, or, less elegantly, “Pig Glacier.” 

Maybe you can put lipstick on a pig!

We had been there before and just loved the setting and the views.

It's popular, but not crowded like Skógafoss

You have to walk down a relatively short (and well-maintained) path to see the glacier; it takes about 10 minutes. 

Part of the path is a road

And, when you do, it is quite impressive.

Views along the way

Located within the Skaftafell Nature Reserve, Svínafellsjökull is an outlet glacier of the much larger Vatnajökull ice cap.

Svínafellsjökull is five miles wide; Vatnajökull is 3,200 square miles

Famous for its brilliant blue ice, dramatic crevasses, and sharp ridges, it is a popular spot for guided hiking (we didn’t) ...

That looks challenging

... and photography (we did) ...

Vast landscape (that tiny blip is Scott)

Actually, glacier hikes on Svínafellsjökull were restricted because of high landslide risk from nearby Mount Svínafell. 

Warnings for when the conditions are good

Climate warming and heavier-than-normal rainfall was wreaking havoc with the landscape (I will address that more in a later blog).

I took this in 2014; I think the glacier has shrunk

Svínafellsjökull features a stunning, often-photographed glacier lagoon and is surrounded by steep, rocky terrain.

A special place

The name is not actually related to the glacier; it is derived from the nearby historic farm, Svínafell.

Nothing piggy here

If it looks familiar, that’s because it was used in filming Interstellar, Batman Begins and Game of Thrones. 

Game of Thrones gives Iceland its approval, but I'm a bigger fan of Interstellar

Our next stop was our actual destination. But, let’s tackle that (and a ton of photos) on my next installment.

Pure magic!

Trip dates: September 5 -28, 2025

Skogar

Inside a traditional Icelandic house

After our ferry returned from Vestmannaeyjar, we had an unexpectedly free afternoon. We were hungry, so we headed towards the cafe at Skógafoss. As we pulled in, we noticed a sign for another restaurant, Freya Café, down a short lane by the Skógar Museum. We had never been to either, so we headed there. 

The cafe and part of the Museum

Freya Café

Located in the inside the Skógar Museum, Freya Café is a massive tearoom. 

We took lots of pix because one of the girls Caty watches is named Freya

It is decorated with a mishmash of Victorian furniture, including settees and wing chairs, which look pretty but are somewhat difficult as dining chairs. 

Oh, and there's an airplane hanging from the ceiling

The china and cutlery is a collection of mismatched china and silver that looks like it came from a flea market or your grandmother’s house. 

Scott ordering his lunch

Freya Café specializes in homemade food including burgers, fish and chips, salads, hot meals and vegan dishes. In addition, it serves tea, which arrives on a platter laid out with vintage pots, saucers and cups.

Earl Grey was heavenly on a day that had devolved from sunny to gloomy and drippy

Scott had the fish and chips and I had a caprese salad. It was delicious and the whole vibe was lots of fun.

Skógar Museum

The Skógar Museum (Skógarsafn in Icelandic) is a cultural heritage museum next to the Skógafoss waterfall, which I talked about in an earlier blog. 

Dedicated to the folk history of the region, the Skógar Museum's collections explain the country's way of life and the history of the surrounding area. 

Typical Icelandic turf house (torfbæir), built between 1830 and 1896

The Museum comprises three sections, each telling a different story of Iceland's past. The Folk Museum showcases historic artifacts, tools and everyday items, giving a glimpse into daily life in Iceland. 

Traditional Icelandic dress

The Open-Air Museum displays a variety of Icelandic buildings. 

Left: Open-Air Museum; Right: Embroidery on display in the Folk Museum

The Technical Museum has exhibits on the development of transport, communication and technologies in Iceland. 

I don't think I ever saw this many telecom artifacts when I worked in telecom!

They even had a lineman and a switch!

Among the Museums’ over 18,000 artifacts are household items, furniture, handicrafts, agricultural equipment and fishing gear. 

Tools and farm equipment

A key artifact is the eight-oared fishing boat Pétursey, which was in use between 1855 and 1946. 

The Pétursey served fishermen for 90 years

The Pétursey represents a crucial piece of fishing history from Iceland's shallow sandy, harborless South Coast. It was specially designed to be launched directly from the beach into North Atlantic waves. 

Maybe these words carved on the side in 1855 pray for a safe launch

While not as large as an actual boat, another display caught my eye. The wall of rúmfjalir fascinated me. 

What's a rúmfjalir? Well, in old Icelandic homes, beds were built into the eaves, with one side open to a center aisle. Family members and farm workers often slept in a communal room, making the bed the whole of a person's personal space. Each bed had a board that could be slipped into the side frame of the bed as a kind of guardrail (see the left picture below). This rúmfjalir was also a multitool, used to stuff the bed covers under the mattress when making the bed, used as a lap tray for meals and serving as a desk. 

The rúmfjalir display is on the right; you can see one against the bed on the left

For poor farm workers, the rúmfjalir was a prized possession. Over time, they evolved from functional use to something more ornamental. Flowing designs were carved into the boards -- either curved lines or floral patterns reminiscent of Celtic and Viking traditions -- but the woodcarvers left one side flat to keep it functional. A well-made rúmfjalir was meant to last a lifetime.

Outside are buildings that give a real feel for the lives of Icelanders. They include ...

The torfbæir

Top: house, occupied 1878-1974; Bottom: tiny fairy house at the edge of the woods

The Litli-Hvammur School, built in 1901

The Skógar Church, with a 1998 exterior, 1879-1898 interior and 1600-1742 bells

Icelandic torfbæir served as the primary housing for Icelanders from the 9th-century settlement until the mid-20th century. Built from turf, stone and wood, torfbæir were well-insulated and eco-friendly. 

An underground workshop (note the ram's horns)

These partially underground structures were designed to withstand harsh Nordic climates, using thick turf walls and roofs for insulation. 

Torfbæir had small rooms with individual entrances, many added on over many years

I wrote about another torfbæir back in 2021, when we visited Bustarfell in northern Iceland.

They are dark and damp

The more modern wooden house was much lighter and drier ...

Kitchen and dining room

Sleeping quarters

Skógar Museum was founded by Þórður Tómasson (1921-2022), a devoted local with a lifelong passion for Icelandic folklore and cultural heritage. 

Schoolhouse

Tómasson served as curator from the Museums’ opening in 1949 to 2013, often personally guiding visitors through the exhibits and sharing the stories behind each artifact. 

Þórður Tómasson; Photo: God Reports

Tómasson's dedication was recognized in 1997 when he received an honorary doctorate from the University of Iceland. 

The Museum has a folksy, hometown feel, but actually has a pretty impressive collection.

Simple kitchen goods

I enjoyed walking around the outdoor exhibits, even though it was starting to rain. 

It was full-on raining by the time we left, so we didn’t even go back to the waterfall.

The weather wasn't as good as the day we went

Dinner and Sleep

We drove the short distance to our lodgings for the night. We were staying one night at a "chalet" at Amma Jóna in Ásólfsskáli. A cute little A-frame house, it was the only chalet among a number of other types of rooms and cabins literally next door to the Ásólfsskálakirkja and the cemetery.

A cute little place; Left: Scott Stevens

It looked brand new

We decided that we wanted a nice dinner that night, so we made reservations at the nearby (and highly recommended) Country Hotel Anna Restaurant that features typical Icelandic food (including horse and puffin) in a rustic, converted farm setting. 

I am not sure we really needed reservations; Photo: Scott Stevens

But, despite the farm setting, it is presented as fine dining.

We had some outrageously expensive wine and a dinner I don't really recall. I think Scott had lamb and I believe I had some kind of pasta. 

The wine was delicious; Left: Scott Stevens

We were told by several people to get the "famous" (also pricey) rhubarb pie, but, because we were too full for dessert, we ordered two pieces to go. It wasn't until later that evening when we opened the box that we discovered the rhubarb "pie" was actually an ultra-sweet cookie bar with more chocolate than rhubarb. 

Not pie

I was so looking forward to tangy rhubarb. What a disappointment. We carried it around for a few days before tossing it.

The plan was to explore a little more after dinner.

This was right next door; Photos: Scott Stevens

But, by the time we got back to our room, it was pouring. I mean a biblical deluge. No exploring. No northern lights. And, for a while as the storm intensified, I thought we were going to have no roof. It was quite a storm. Watch here.

Maybe Scott was onto something by booking an earlier ferry. We might have gotten stranded on Vestmannaeyjar.

There are worse places to be stuck

So, it was a somewhat uneasy -- but cozy -- night before we headed west. 

But, that's the next blog. 

On to Scott's happy place

Trip dates: September 5 - 28, 2025