Holm Bugt

Signs of life (Reindeer), but we never saw any

After going deep into Greenland's Oscar Kong Fjord system, we headed back out of Alpefjord to Holm Bugt. It is a scenic, sandy bay located within the Northeast Greenland National Park on the coast of Traill Ø, still in the Kong Oscar Fjord region.

The peaks don't even look real; Photo: Scott Stevens

Traill Ø is on the eastern side of King Oscar Fjord, northeast of Davy Sound. The highest summit of the island is a 6,181-foot unnamed peak of the Svinhufvud Range.

Holm Bugt vista

Holm Bugt is known for its trapper cabin and archaeological remains of the ancient Thule culture. The area features relatively flat, open terrain that offers expansive views of the fjord.

We stayed until sunset; Photo: Scott Stevens

It was originally named Holms Vik (Holm's Beach) by A.G. Nathorst's 1899 expedition, probably after Gustaf Birger Anders Holm, a publisher of educational books, who had donated to the expedition.

Our ship, 126 years later

Once again, we did the leisurely walk, rather than scaling the peaks.

Another, more athletic, group; Photos: Sandesh

We spent much of our time discussing Greenlandic vegetation and even tasting some Crowberries (tart but tasty!).

Berries from the "forest;" Photos: Scott Stevens

Then, we saw Holm Bugt's famous stone art, for which it doesn't appear the origin is known. The modern-looking "installation," formed from small pebbles arranged as a long curved arc that ends in a tower topped with Reindeer antlers, may represent a sea monster or serpent.

An earlier pic of the art; Photo: Wikipedia

This, along with other stone art found in the area, may be an interpretation of local, possibly Inuit-influenced, designs.

These structures are distinct from ancient petroglyphs and appear to be recent, potentially modern. The photos I found online after I returned don't actually match what we saw on Holm Bugt. So, there are two possible scenarios. Maybe what we saw was some of the "other stone art found in the area." Or, the tower forming the sea monster's head had fallen or been knocked down. 

What we saw; Left: Sandesh

It's mysterious and I cannot find an answer.

Holm Bugt is also known as the site of the Tolvmandsbarak (Twelve-Man Barrack), a historic cabin used for shelter and research, notably by the Nanok Team, a group focused on scientific research and cabin maintenance in East Greenland. 

Built by Norwegian hunters in 1932, Tolvmandsbarak features six rooms with bunk beds and a large common room and has required restoration following damage from hungry Polar Bears. We couldn't see Tolvmandsbarak from our vantage point.

Kayakers passing a shed (also not Tolvmandsbarak); Photo: Scotty Sinton

We did, however, see a canvas-covered supply hut.

Ian, the ship's history expert, was again our guide

Everything was carefully stacked and weighted.

Secured to minimize potential Bear damage

Holm Bugt is also the site of an airstrip, about which I can find absolutely no information online. 

An old barrel marking the edge

I think it was constructed to facilitate now-defunct mining operations nearby, but is no longer used. I guess I should have paid more attention or taken notes.

 

Kayakers saw more but probably didn't take notes, either; Photo: Scotty Sinton

This is the problem with being too busy to blog right after a trip. Sometimes you forget things.

Holm Bugt is known for its harsh, icy environment, challenging navigation and proximity to scientific, expedition-related sites.

The warm light made it look less harsh, but I imagine winter is rough

I think I failed giving a good overview of Holm Bugt, so just enjoy the photos.

An expansive view; Photo: Scott Stevems

One of the nice thing about our afternoon landings was the beautiful sunsets we saw almost every evening. 

Our ship basking in the glow

I found that, if we returned to the ship before golden hour, I tended to miss sunsets because I was busy taking off boots and heavy gear, sorting gear in my room and, usually, grabbing a cup of hot tea.

Being onshore forced observation, for which I am thankful.

Magic

What's next?

Civilization!

Trip dates September 5 – 30, 2025

Alpefjord Fjord, Gully and Sefstrøm Glaciers

Our morning's destination (with one of the few signs of civilization we saw)

The next morning started with a surprise. Before it was even light enough to take a decent photo, we got a PA announcement that Polar Bears were spotted onshore. It was darkish and they were far, far, far away. So far that you really couldn't see them with the naked eye.

Did I say far away? Photo: Scotty Sinton

It was a female and her cub, probably a yearling. They appeared to be eating from a kill. Because they were on a thin stretch of beach, it was most likely a Seal. I took a lot of photos, but most of mine wouldn't even give a forensic photo expert anything to work with. 

Yep! Polar Bears!

The ship's photographer fared a bit better.

You can (kinda) see what they are doing; Photo: Scotty Sinton

So, we had seen tracks and actual Bears, maybe we'd get a better sighting later. Nope. Later, some hikers saw some even farther away. But, that was it for Polar Bears for us. Fortunately, I have seen them before.

Polar Bear, Kaktovik, Alaska, 2008, before I had a good camera and lens

Our Excursion

As the sun rose, the day was as beautiful as the day before.

Blue sky, snow-capped mountains, blue water

The Expedition Team started remarking that they had not seen weather this good all season and that, considering the terrible weather they experienced on the cruise immediately before ours, it seemed like a miracle. I'll take it. 

Maybe paying dues in Iceland was worth it

This morning's adventure was Zodiac-based. We were cruising up Alpefjord Fjord.

Traveling to the glacier face; Photo: Scotty Sinton

Enjoying the ride; Top left: Scott Stevens

A narrow scenic channel in the Northeast Greenland National Park, Alpefjord was as deep as we would go into Greenland's fjord system. 

Our first view of the glaciers

Based on the maps I am looking at, I think we traveled about a quarter of the way up the 18-mile-long fjord, which is fed by multiple glaciers.

I think we made it to where two glaciers converge; Map: Google Maps

It's always tricky on a guided tour to figure out exactly where you went, so I just have to guess by what I am seeing. It is complicated by the fact that not every place is listed on Google Maps and that many of the places in Greenland have multiple spellings: English, Danish, Greenlandic, Norwegian, Swedish, even German. So, forgive me if I am not completely accurate.

Alpefjord is known for its dramatic landscapes, including ... 

The Gully and Sefstrøm Glaciers ...

... and the towering Stauning Alps

The Alps have numerous high rocky peaks, reaching more than 6,000 feet above the ocean, and active glaciers in almost all valleys. 

In many places, the rock face goes straight into the ocean without a shore or beach

The mountains are made up of granite, harder in the northern ranges than in the southern subranges.

The hard granite makes the mountains in the north extremely craggy

Those in the south are more eroded and have a relatively smoother appearance.

A cleft in the mountaintop

One striking feature in the fjord is the striped cliffs made of layered sedimentary rocks.

More interesting geology; Photo: Scotty Sinton

I have always thought of fjords a narrow, which, compared to the open ocean, they are. But, Greenland's major fjords are pretty big.

The ship gives perspective

As we traveled up the fjord by Zodiac, we navigated by steep cliffs.

Almost straight up

Then, we reached a rock dike that seemed to be an underwater moraine.

Approaching the moraine

A closer view as we rounded it

Finally, we approached the faces of the glaciers, beautiful in the brilliant sunshine.

Classic tidal glacier faces

Although we heard some cracking and booming, I was surprised at how little calving we saw here or at any of the other glaciers we visited in Greenland, especially since it was sunny and (relatively) warm.

You can see small amounts of icefall

The ice in the water and piles of ice at the bases of the glaciers showed that they were calving. We just missed most of it.

There was a little action

It was in Alpefjord that we saw the only other hint of civilization outside of Ittoqqortoormiit, the village we would visit later. An airplane (perhaps a military transport or a research plane; certainly not a commercial passenger plane) flew over the mountaintops. 

Just skimming the top ...

... then, flying low around the peaks

I would have loved to be up there to see these beautiful fjords and glaciers from the air.

Right over the ice; Photo: Scotty Sinton

We saw some Ducks in the water, which our guide announced to be Common Eiders. 

Several female or juvenile Common Eiders swimming rapidly away

While she was correct, she wasn't totally right. There was actually one group of Common Eiders and one group of Long-tailed Ducks. 

Long-tailed Ducks

You had to look close to notice because the Zodiacs kept them pretty much at bay.

It was a nice morning in a beautiful place.

Amazing!

And, we were enjoying our guides and fellow travelers.

Posing for a Zodiac portrait; Right: Scott Stevens

But, we had to move on the our next, late afternoon stop.

Ship and shore; Photo: Scott Stevens

Trip dates September 5 – 30, 2025