On Our Way to Greenland

The Ocean Explorer, Warming Island, Greenland

Finally, after years of waiting, we were beginning our trip to Greenland. 

We drove back to Reykjavik with few stops. What started as sunny got increasingly gloomy the closer we got to Iceland’s capital city. We checked into our hotel – the Reykjavik Marina – which was literally within sight of where we would embark upon our ship.

 

Our hotel; Photo: Berjaya Iceland Hotels

When we booked the trip, our original plan had been to return our rental car to Keflavik and take the flybus into Iceland’s capital city. But, after the confusion and frustration of waiting over two hours to pick up our car upon arrival, I changed the reservation so that we would return the car we had in the city and then pick up a car after we returned in the city. After our short Snæfellsnes trip after our cruise, we’d take that car back to the airport. 

This was not without risk. The last time we picked up a car in Reykjavik, the rental car office was not where all our paperwork and the internet said it was. It had moved about 1.5 miles (that we walked on an unseasonably hot Icelandic day) away. I had had this happen about three other times with in-city rental car offices, so I was skeptical. 

While the office was (sort of) where it was supposed to be, the drop off was not without drama. First, there were TWO facilities -- one on a small side street and one on top of a parking structure across the street (a bit tricky to find). 

Two offices with a roadway between them

Both had offices and both were closed for the day. We finally deciphered what we thought we had to do -- leave the car at the top of the parking structure and then schlep the keys back to a drop box at the other office. Then, we had to take a cab back to the hotel and the offices were remote enough that we had to figure out how to call a cab. 

Luckily a clerk in the nearby Bakarameistarinn-Holtagarðar bakery helped us call a cab and we made it back to the hotel.

Plus! A chance to try a great bakery! Photos: Bakarameistarinn

The next day was mainly waiting. We had to check in for the tour at 9:00 a.m. and check out of the hotel by 11 a.m., but we didn’t actually board the ship until after 4:00 p.m. Scott went on several walks, but I ended up just sitting with our luggage in the lobby. 

Sun Voyager sculpture and Harpa, Reykjavik's concert hall; Photos: Scott Stevens

The most frustrating travel days are those you spend waiting for something fun to happen. Of course, I occupied myself with processing photos (ones you just saw in my previous blogs). 

While waiting, we talked to several people who had just sailed back from Greenland, which amplified our weather anxiety. They reported rough seas, constant cold, rain and fog and even one ship that left Greenland early and cruised the coast of Iceland to escape bad weather. 

Yikes! What were we sailing into? 

Quark Expeditions

Our trip was with Quark Expeditions. 

Quark exclusively offers Arctic and Antarctic itineraries

Headquartered in Seattle, Quark was founded in 1991 by Mike McDowell and Lars Wikander and, in 1998, McDowell sold his interests to Wikander. In 2007, the company became part of the UK-based TUI Travel Group and, in 2016, parts of TUI, including Quark, became part of Travelopia.

Quark Expeditions operates cruises during the Northern Hemisphere summer to Greenland, Svalbard, Iceland, Canada's High Arctic and the Northwest Passage. These voyages emphasize Arctic wildlife including Polar Bears, Walruses, Muskoxen and migratory bird species, as well as cultural interactions with indigenous communities in Greenland and Nunavut. 

We saw these in Svalbard in 2019 and hoped to repeat

Quark's Antarctic season generally runs from November to March, with departures from Ushuaia, Argentina, across the Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula (we traveled to Antarctica with G Adventures in 2023). 

Quark is a long-time member of the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AAECO) and of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), which promote and commit to environmentally responsible tourism and sustainability. 

The goal is to protect the environment for future generations

Our ship, the Ocean Explorer, was quite nice – definitely newer and nicer that G Adventures’ G Expedition. 

The Ocean Explorer with all passengers on deck; Photo: Scotty Sinton

Purpose-built for polar exploration, the 342-foot-long 138-passenger vessel has an inverted bow, designed to ensure comfortable and smooth sailing. 

The website calls the cabins “spacious” and that’s no lie. 

Our cabin was huge for a cruise ship (even for a hotel room)

A real shower with a door!

Because of its location near the staircase, I think our cabin was larger than others of the same classification and price. 

We were in room 416

The ship has a “modern, bespoke Scandinavian design,” so nice compared to the garish design found on some cruise ships. 

Almost all cabins have verandas; Photos: Scott Stevens

Ocean Explorer has lots of outdoor viewing areas and multi-height outer decks. 

Enjoying the view and (spoiler alert) sunshine

The vessel is equipped with a fleet of 15 Zodiacs for exploration and landings.

A favorite way to travel; Left: Paola Palavecino; Right: Scott Stevens

Public areas, where one can spend a lot of time while at sea, include a two-story library at the bow of the ship with huge windows (especially good for watching the waves during the rough spots) ...

Library; Photo: Quark

A lovely dining room where both buffets were offered for breakfast and dinner and served meals were provided for most dinners. Seating was completely open (none of that cruise ship-assigned seating, reservations or whatever) ... 

Good variety and quite good; Food photos: Cruise Critic

The Latitude Bar ...

Getting a drink; Left: Quark; Right: Scott Stevens

A sauna, fitness center and two Jacuzzis, none of which I used 

Who has time? Photos: Quark

An observation lounge, where educational programs and trip briefing and recaps were held.

A photography session led by Scotty Sinton

As with trips of this type, the guides are all subject matter experts who drive Zodiacs, lead hikes, give lectures and generally made sure we were safe. 

Amalia Goodall, Expedition Leader, looking for Polar Bears in Immikkeertikajik 

The team on this trip included: 

Amalia Goodall, Expedition Leader

Sarah Norbury, Expedition Coordinator

David Dieckfoss, Expedition Guide

Callum Findley, Expedition Guide 

Steffen Graupner, Expedition Guide 

Austin Hart, Expedition Guide 

Paola Palavecino, Expedition Guide 

Scott Sinton, Photography Guide 

Lana Bendtsen, Cultural Educator 

Norm Lasca, Geology and Glaciology Presenter 

Ian Gordon, History Presenter 

Nick Englemann, Marine Biology Presenter 

Jean Pennycook, Ornithology Presenter 

Kristoffer Korol, Paddle Excursion Guide 

Eze (Luciano) Benencia, Paddle Excursion Support 

Ryan Seigal, Sea Kayak Guide

Hongwei Wang, Mandarin Expedition Guide 

Yukie Hayashi, Logistics Coordinator 

Gillian Millet, Guest Services 

Adrienne Darhower, MD, Ship’s Doctor

Kristoffer, Paola and Yukie

We didn’t interact with everyone, but many did double duty as Hiking or Zodiac Guides, so we did spend time with most. I found the staff to be well-informed, extremely helpful and obviously in love with the region.

Our Expedition Team; Photo: Scotty Sinton

The ship's staff was attentive and helpful.

A cute surprise in our room

Embarking

Boarding was relatively painless; it is so much easier on a ship with 138 passengers vs. 2,500!

All aboard! Left and bottom right: Scotty Sinton; Top right: Scott Stevens

When we finally got underway, we sailed out of Reykjavik Harbor, enjoying some (slightly misty) views of the city.

The full Harpa building

We headed out in light rain and dark seas. Was this going to be a miserable trip? 

Höfði Lighthouse, Reykjavik Harbor; Left photos: Scott Stevens

A little way out from Reykjavik, we saw a spectacular rainbow.

It started as a single; Photo: fellow traveler

And, then became a double; we all hoped it was a good omen

Among our first-afternoon activities were trying on (and, in my case, exchanging) our Quark-provided expedition jackets (ours to keep) ...

Warm and highly visible in an arctic environment

A mandatory safety briefing and trip to our muster station ... 

As close as we got to using the Jacuzzi (sitting on the steps)!

A departure toast ...

Bon voyage

It was here that we met a group of about 20 people all in Polar Bear suits. 

Talk about getting into the spirit of the trip! Photos: Sandesh

A few days later, we also had to try on our muck boots (loaners), which we had to wear for all off-ship expeditions and landings ...

I take foam inserts to make them more comfy; Photo: Scotty Sinton

The Denmark Strait

I had read the trip description and looked at maps, but it never sunk in that our first day and three-quarters would be just getting to Greenland. Nor, did it register that, like the Drake Passage to Antarctica, the path to Greenland could be rough.

I had a scopolamine patch; I was fine (many weren't)

So, the first part of our trip was getting acclimated and holding on to rails as the ship rock-and-rolled around the west coast of Iceland and then across the Denmark Strait to Greenland. 

The Denmark Strait; Left: Wikipedia

This deep-water channel between Greenland and Iceland connecting the Arctic and Atlantic Oceans is 300 miles long and 180 miles wide. 

It is famous for the Denmark Strait cataract, the world's tallest underwater waterfall, which is formed by cold, dense water sinking beneath warmer water, dropping over two miles deep. The flow of cold water is crucial for global ocean circulation, though it is threatened by climate change. 

Iceland flanked us for longer than I expected

Our trip was billed as Northeast Greenland, but I feel that that description, which is used by everyone not just Quark, is somewhat inaccurate. 

 

I would call in east-central Greenland; Map: Google Maps

I suspect that actual Northeast Greenland is generally impossible to reach because of sea ice.

Like every expedition cruise, the itinerary is actually a general outline of where we might go. As we sailed, the Captain and Expedition Leader worked together to determine the exact locations, landings and order for destinations. Everything depends on weather and ice pack. Since it was mid-September, they had to be concerned that targeted fjords could be iced in and, thus, impassable. Fortunately, that did not occur. 

Top right: Pack ice, Svalbard, 2019; Bottom right: Coast of Greenland

The first decision they made was to start our trip at the farthest north location and then work our way south until we had to sail back to Iceland. That would give the bad weather longer to move out of our way and would result in a lengthy trip before our first landing. It also meant that our trip back to Iceland at the end of the trip would be shorter. 

I hoped to see some Pelagic birds on the route, so I tried to go out on deck with my camera as often as I could. 

I did see lots of Northern Fulmars, but not much else

Jean, our onboard ornithologist told me that she had seen a huge group of Iceland Gulls (which would be a lifer for me), but I always missed them. 

The weather started rough; watch these waves in full speed and slow motion ...

... but as we got closer to Greenland, the sky got clearer and clearer, making our first views pretty spectacular. 

Breathtaking

In my next post, I'll give you some background on Greenland.

Trip dates September 5 – 28, 2025

Jökulsárlón -- Again!

All about the ice!

I’m at a bit of a loss about what to write about our destination for our final pre-Greenland day in Iceland. That’s because we’ve been to Jökulsárlón every time we’ve gone to Iceland (and I went with Caty, as well). 

Jökulsárlón = ice

So, I have blogged about it before: in 2014, 2015, 2017 (two blogs), 2019 and 2021.  

Stunning!

So, maybe just a quick overview and lots and lots of photos.

 

Photographer and cameras; Photos: Scott Stevens

Does that work? 

Jökulsárlón ("glacial river lagoon") is on the edge of Vatnajökull National Park at the head of Breiðamerkurjökull. 

Breiðamerkurjökull makes a wide arc

The word jökul or jökull means glacier so I try not to be redundant. So, if I accidentally write “Breiðamerkurjökull glacier" (translates to "broad banded glacier glacier"), forgive me. 

Breiðamerkurjökull is part of Vatnajökull, the same ice cap that feeds Svínafellsjökull, which I just blogged about.

Two locations, same glacier; Map: Google Maps

Glaciers coming off Vatnajökull

The lagoon was formed in the 1930s when Breiðamerkurjökull began to recede from the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, leaving a strip of land between the glacial face and the sea. Melting ice and calving hunks of ice created a puddle, then a pool and then a lagoon that is now about a mile from the ocean's edge. 

And the process continues

The lagoon now covers seven square miles, four times as big as it was in the 1970s.

At over 814 feet deep, Jökulsárlón is the deepest lake in Iceland

Jökulsárlón is filled with icebergs that calve off the glacier and are carried by the tides under a bridge and out to sea.

Icebergs at the entrance to the channel;

Many strand themselves on a black sand beach before finally being washed away

The amount of icebergs in the lagoon varies, depending on both how much ice has calved off the glacier and the tides.

Lots of ice this time

This is because the lagoon empties into the ocean via a channel that is far shallower than the main lagoon. Icebergs (and smaller bergie bits) traveling toward the outlet often get stuck in the shallows. 

Grounded!

Then they must wait for either a high enough tide to lift them and float them out or for the water to melt them enough to be lifted.

You can see the extent of melting

While they float or while they sit and wait, they become resting spots for Harbor Seals and seabirds, including Black-legged Kittiwakes, Ravens and Black-headed Gulls. 

Hauled out

Black-legged Kittiwake party

And, a party of one

Common Eiders can also be found in the lagoon and I’ve seen songbirds in the parking lot.

White Wagtail

Snow Bunting

The channel is obviously a rich feeding ground for birds. I spent quite a bit of time there practicing with my new camera (Canon R7). 

Black-headed Gulls scooping up herring

It was also a great place to see Harbor Seals

And more Gulls flying at eye-level

But, I am getting a little ahead of myself. 

We made a stop before actually arriving at Jökulsárlón.

Fjallsárlón

In my last blog I talked about all the places we visited on the way to Jökulsárlón. Except one: Fjallsárlón, a lake about six miles to the west that shares many characteristics with Jökulsárlón. 

The lake is fed by Fjallsjökull, which also extends from Vatnajökull; Map: Google Maps 

It is the result of a melting and calving glacier, it fills with icebergs and the icebergs eventually make their way to the ocean, just like they do at Jökulsárlón. 

An iceberg in Jökulsárlón

But, the lake is farther from the main highway and less crowded. Because Fjallsárlón is much smaller, you get a closer view of the glacier face from land. 

Looking Fjallsjökull in the face

Unfortunately, on this visit, the lake was almost completely devoid of icebergs. 

Where's the ice?

In past visits, we have seen more ice in the lake.

Lots more! This is 2014

We stopped to take a look and had lunch at the little café/bistro on the edge of the moraine between the parking lot and the lake. Then we walked up over the hill and down to the shore on the wide, well-maintained gravel path.

One thing really special about Fjallsárlón is the heart-shaped rock face next to the glacier. In 2014, I photographed a heart-shaped rock on the shore of that same lake.

There’s a lot to love about Iceland; Left: Scott Stevens

Just like at Jökulsárlón, where we were going next, there are Zodiac boat tours that take visitors to the edge of the glacier. I am not sure they were running the day we were there; I don’t think they were.

We haven’t taken the boat tour here. Back in 2014, Scott and I took a tour on Jökulsárlón and were extremely disappointed because our driver seemed afraid to get even remotely close to the glacier (I think he was a novice captain), so we couldn’t see much more than what we could see from standing on the shore.

 

Our ride in 2014

Maybe next time we should give it another try.

Now, back to Jökulsárlón ...

Diamond Beach

The channel from the lagoon flows under a bridge and, because it is narrow, some of the icebergs and bergie bits don’t make a clean escape. 

Instead, they become stranded on the black sand beach at the mouth of the channel

Scott's selfie with stranded ice

The beach’s name is Fellsfjara, but it is commonly called “Diamond Beach.”

The reason for the name is obvious

How many “diamonds” are scattered on the beach varies dramatically, depending on tide, wind, temperature and, if you are a true Icelander, the whims of the ice fairies.

The fairies were busy

I have been there when both sides are blanketed, when one side is blanketed and one side is bare and when a chunk of ice is as difficult to find as iced tea in Europe.

Clear ice

That's when you have to concentrate on the interesting rocks

This trip was pretty rich in ice (and in tourists admiring the ice), but there was a dramatic difference in volume from side-to-side (and it shifted from one side to the other while we were there).

Early morning fog and ice on the west side

I am sure the wind – which was stiff – had a lot to do with where the ice ended up.

We spent a lot of time wandering among the stranded icebergs, taking pictures and admiring natures glory.

We took a break to get a photo together

The ice is interesting because it takes many different forms ..

Clear, sculpted ice

Blue ice

White ice

Porous ice

Dirty ice

Really cool ice; Photo: Scott Stevens

We also spent a lot of time watching, photographing and taking video of huge bergs stranded in the shallow water that were being absolutely pounded by waves. 

A violent sea

I don’t know why, but I just love watching the ocean break over inanimate objects.

Fun to watch

Of course, trying to catch that on video was harder than I thought it would be. I got some cool time-lapse, but with not as many big waves.

Every now and then, an iceberg that was either shallow on the bottom or well-positioned in the center of the channel made it through and sailed past, appearing to mock their bigger cousins who almost escaped, but instead were stuck waiting for a good wave or a higher tide.

This one made it!

Watch the progress here:

And, watch another escapee here.

The violent surf also seemed to stir up fish, because hundreds of Black-legged Kittiwakes were circling and diving into the surf to catch fish.

Hungry birds

Facilities

The Jökulsárlón area has multiple parking lots. The businest one is by the main part of the lagoon.

Jökulsárlón main lagoon

It has restrooms (a small one in the café and a bank of porta-potties), a small bakery/café, food trucks (Icelandic hotdogs!), and tour departures, including for the boat trips on the lagoon and for other trips, such as glacier hiking and, during colder months, ice cave tours.

National Park facilities and services

Another parking lot is on the other side of the bridge and accesses a series of trails, some of which skirt the lagoon.

View from the trail

Then, there are parking lots on either side of the canal for accessing Diamond Beach. 

Early morning on Diamond Beach

One parking fee covers all of them. But, on good days, finding a space can be tough. So, it’s best to pick a lot and then just walk to alternate locations. 

A good place to walk

That does require crossing the highway (a little scary) and/or walking across the bridge (a little more scary).

On foggy days, I’d be extra careful

As with most parking in Iceland, the fee is paid via cell phone. Always have a working phone when traveling there.

While walking around, we noticed that the paths and parking lots had been significantly improved since our last visit. For example, there is a gravelly hill that looks down on the lagoon from near the main parking lot. Climbing up it was tricky in the past because of loose rock. 

In 2015, Caty climbed and I didn't

Now, it has a wide path anchored by a metal grid.

Much nicer facilities

I found walking much easier and didn’t really mind that the new paths restricted access to the lagoon’s edge and the sides of the hill. I am all for saving the environment – and not sliding down a hill.

Lodging

This time we visited for three days, staying at the Hali Country Hotel, just nine miles east of the lagoon. 

Hali

In the past, we have stayed at several different accommodations on the Hali farm, including the Skyrhúsið Guesthouse (a hostel), the Guesthouse Gerði and the Hali Country Hotel. All are great and all are exceedingly convenient to the lagoon. 

Cliffs across the highway with early morning fog

The Hali Country Restaurant is also excellent. 

The restaurant shares space with a small museum

We had several great meals there during our stay.

And a really good dessert; Photo: Scott Stevens

While you can day-trip to Jökulsárlón from other locations (most commonly Höfn to the east or Vík í Mýrdal to the west), we like to be close because often the prettiest time to be there is sunrise.

Early bird catches the shot

Once, we were lucky enough to see aurora over the lagoon. 

Aurora in 2017

This time we went to bed expecting overcast all night long only to find the next morning that we may have missed some lights.

The Experience

Over the three days, we had a variety of weather: a little rain, a lot of wind, some fog, lots of overcast and a little sun. All was magical, but sun is the best, especially when it’s during the golden hours of dawn and dusk.

Morning light on the lagoon

This might just be one of the places we have photographed the most. 

Moody light at Diamond Beach

It is certainly one of Scott’s favorite places.

Happy place!

Although we spent most of our time at the lagoon, we did venture a little further east, having a nice lunch at Kaffi Hornid in Höfn (or Höfn í Hornafirði), a charming fishing village known as the "Lobster Capital of Iceland." We had fish and chips, not lobster.

Located in the Hornafjörður Fjord, it is the last major town before the East Fjords when traveling along Route 1 (Ring Road).

Our drive there and back produced some pretty vistas ...

 

Breiðamerkurjökull

... and some of Iceland’s furrier (woolier?) friends.

Icelandic Horses with Breiðamerkurjökull in the background

We hadn’t seen a lot of Icelandic Horses on this trip. Maybe they were already stabled for the winter? Or just hiding from the wind.

And, you just have to photograph Icelandic Sheep ...

... especially ones as fluffy as these!

After our time at Jökulsárlón, we needed to get back to Reykjavik so we could start our real Adventure: Greenland!

One our drive back, we saw a few more animals ...

Barnacle Geese

Whooper Swans

... but we didn’t really make any stops.

By the time we got to Reykjavik, it was starting to rain again.

We had had a lovely time in Iceland, but the weather had been less than perfect. In fact, I think it is fair to say it was the worst we had experienced in seven trips.

 

Gloomy

Because we had already had spectacular experiences in Iceland and because we always managed to have a few windows of sunshine despite the rain and wind, we weren’t upset. But, we were getting increasingly worried about our voyage to Greenland. 

Well, I said I didn’t have much to write, but I managed to drone on anyway. And share lots of photos. 

Lots!

And lots!

Next blog will talk about new topics.

It was time to say goodbye to Iceland

Trip dates September 5 – 28, 2025