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| Wattled Jacana, Guarinocito Lake |
After that, we would drive a bit for a delightful boat trip to bird Guarinocito Lake, ending up that night in the small town of La Victoria.
Laguna el Tabacal
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| The lake through the trees |
Located about 20 minutes of winding roads from the lodge, Laguna el Tabacal is a scenic lake surrounded by steep hillsides and scrubby forests that provides habitat for more than 350 species of birds.
Named for nearby tobacco crops, it sits at 4,000 feet, but was still a bit steamy.
The 116-acre lake has rich surrounding jungle vegetation, including large kapok (ceiba trees), and a “floating island” that the indigenous Panche peoples said would move around the water during the day.
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| Bromeliad on the shore |
The lake was considered a sacred site by the
Panche, who used the area for rituals and left golden offerings. The myth of the Pato Dorado (Golden Duck) tells of a mystical duck that shines like pure gold and has the power to reveal hidden treasures to those with pure intentions. If an ambitious person tries to capture the Duck or take it more than a kilometer away from the water, the bird will magically vanish from their hands and return to the lagoon.
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| The two giant golden Ducks mark the ancient stone-paved Pato Dorado trail |
Laguna el Tabacal is known as a popular spot for locals and, indeed, we found ourselves next to a rather large and very noisy hiking group. We altered our walking plan just to get away from them so that they wouldn’t scare the birds away.
We started with some time on the shores of the lake, looking over to a trail on the other side, where we saw a sitting Striated Heron ...
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| Far side of the lake |
... and, briefly, a Gray-cowled Wood-Rail that ran too fast to catch. This is the same bird I had seen in Costa Rica and, by Alejandro's reaction, a bit unexpected.
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| Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica, 2022 |
The lake was host to ...
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| ... fish, including Koi and something more local ... |
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| ... several Neotropic Cormorants, sunning ... |
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| ... and hunting ... |
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... and a Least Grebe (this is Bob's photo) |
After the noisy hikers had finally picked a direction, we headed the opposite way. As we walked, the birds I saw and photographed included two lifers …
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Ruddy Quail-Dove |
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| A very spotted Band-backed Wren |
… and some of old friends …
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A pair of Yellow-bellied Elaenias experiencing a bad hair day |
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| Black-billed Thrush practicing yoga |
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| Swainson's Thrush, which was a common bird on our travels |
We came upon two Rusty-margined Flycatchers, another lifer here, that seemed extremely agitated. We watched awhile, noticing a pattern of them flying from a short tree into another tree, where we found a nest ...
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| Guarding a nest |
... and then into a nearby medium-sized tree, where they approached with their claws out and crowns up in full attack mode.
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| Agitated birds |
It took a bit of looking, but we finally found the source of irritation ...
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| A Smooth Green Snake that they saw as a threat to the nest |
I mention that they had “crowns up.” Many birds, including lots of Flycatchers, Kingbirds and Kinglets (the latter two actually named for their crowns), have crests that they can raise as a warning to aggressors or territorial threats. Sometimes the crest matches the head, but sometimes it is a striking different color and/or it is concealed when not in use.
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| The Rusty-margined Flycatcher has a deep orange-gold crown |
Rusty-margined Flycatchers have a “look” similar to many other birds, including Social Flycatchers, Great Kiskadees, Lesser Kiskadees, Piratic Flycatchers and Boat-billed Flycatchers, all of which I had seen before.
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| Typical plumage |
So, I wasn’t even sure these were lifers before I looked them up.
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| This is a different one we saw on a different trail |
The species I saw and missed for photos included Bay-headed Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, Blue-necked Tanager, Broad-winged Hawk, Canada Warbler, Crimson-backed Tanager, Eared Dove, Great Kiskadee, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Ringed Kingfisher, Roadside Hawk, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, Ruddy Ground
Dove, Speckle-breasted Wren, Streaked Saltator, Summer Tanager and White-necked Jacobin.
Unfortunately, the missed birds also included lifers – Chestnut-capped Warbler, Stripe-breasted Spinetail and White-bearded Manakin.
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| Bob got a photo of the White-bearded Manakin I missed |
I like to get a photo of every bird I see, but Colombia had different ideas.
When I say missed, it is sometimes that I could not get a decent shot because it was too dark, too far or there were too many twigs and leaves between the subject and me.
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Like this Bay-breasted Warbler |
Sometimes the bird is moving too fast or too often. But, sometimes it means I knew I already had a decent photo of that bird that I wouldn’t be able to top this time, so I chose to focus attention elsewhere.
Regardless, I was not too happy to be missing so many.
But, sometimes you get another chance. When we stopped for lunch at a little rural restaurant, we went into the kitchen to see how they roasted their own coffee in an old wood-burning stove.
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| At the window was a Thick-billed Euphonia, a bird I had missed the day before |
Still, by the time the trip was over, of my 291 lifers I was missing photos of 111, which is about a 62 percent success rate for Colombia. Disappointing!
By the way, my overall photos-to-non-photos ratio for ALL birds I have seen in 87 percent. But, in Colombia, some birds were a one-shot deal.
Guarinocito Lake
We spent the afternoon doing one of my favorite things – birding by boat. We drove about three hours to Charca de Guarinocito, a beautiful oxbow lake located near La Dorada.
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| Sunset on Charca de Guarinocito |
The area is home to more than 135 plant species, 45 mammal species, significant reptile and amphibian populations and high concentrations of migratory birds. It is highly biodiverse with over documented 379 native and naturalized bird species. The area is protected to preserve the endangered tropical dry forest ecosystem.
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| A female Anhinga drying its wings on the lake |
This crescent-shaped lake formed when a wide meander of the Magdelena River was cut off, creating a separate, still-water lake. Oxbow lakes are created by continuous erosion and deposition – where the river ultimately breaks through a narrow neck of land to take a straighter path, isolating the old bend.
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| The map shows the relationship to the river |
Oxbow lakes often turn into swamps or bogs over time as they fill with sediment, which was happening here – the farther end of the lake was too boggy for our boat to navigate.
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| Oxbows and associated wetlands are crucial for providing habitat to fish and wildlife |
When we arrived, Hernan provided us with snacks (I mean, lunch was at least two hours ago!) to keep us strong for our expedition on the lake. As we wandered around, we saw a group of Black Vultures standing around and cooling their feet in a small stream. They use liquid to cool their legs and feet to prevent overheating; the clear stream was a nice alternative to the urine and poop they usually use.
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| Wading on a warm day |
Then, one of the local guides called us over to show us a Common Nighthawk perched in a tree right by the lake’s edge. We watched it for awhile and it never budged, because that’s generally what a sleeping Nighthawk does.
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| Snoozing in a tree |
We came back in the late afternoon after our boat ride, hoping to see it lift off for its early evening bug-hunting, but it had already departed.
We went out on a narrow flat-bottomed boat that looked like a cross between a canoe and a dingy. Because it was high-drafted and quiet, we were able to get reasonably close to birds without disturbing them.
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| A Pied Water-Tyrant at the water's edge |
And, because many of the birds were out in the open rather than skulking in the jungle, I had much better success with photos.
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| Cruising |
This is despite it being a bit tricky to swing my long lens around in the tight quarters created by six people in a tiny boat (with a fraying mesh canopy that frequently blocked my shot). I did so many contortions to get good shots that my side muscles were sore for a few days.
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| But, well worth it for shots like this Black-collared Hawk |
When we headed out onto the calm lake, we got some of our first really good looks at the Andes from the valley (much different from views up on the Cordillera).
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| Stunning! Absolutely stunning! |
So, what did we see?
Of course there were Yellow-hooded Blackbirds. I told you earlier that they are like Red-winged Blackbirds in the U.S.; where there are wetlands, there are Yellow-hooded Blackbirds.
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Male Yellow-hooded Blackbird |
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| Female Yellow-hooded Blackbird |
Wetlands also mean wading birds. Guarinocito Lake delivered on that front; we saw eight species …
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| Cocoi Heron |
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| Black-crowned Night Heron |
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| Striated Heron |
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| Bare-faced Ibis |
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| Adult Rufescent Tiger-Heron, which is more rufescent |
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| Juvenile Rufescent Tiger-Heron, which is more tigerish |
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| A dark morph Wattled Jacana (Lifer) |
While I had photographed a Cocoi Heron in Ecuador, it was from a speeding boat and it was far away. The ones on Guarinocito were much closer.
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| This gave a much better look at this beautiful bird |
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| A tall, lanky bird |
Cocoi Herons feed primarily on fish measuring over eight inches long; with mammals, amphibians and sometimes insects also being consumed. It catches its prey by striking its head into the water and thrusting its bill to stab downwards. It may also tilt its head downward above the water so that only its bill is immersed. During feeding, the head and neck move rapidly while the body remains immobile.
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| Ours were just standing, not feeding |
Because of its size, it doesn't have a lot of predators besides humans and raptors, primarily the Crested Caracara.
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| A favorite of the day (among many) |
Wait! I said eight species and then discussed six. The other two wading birds were some Great Egrets and Western Cattle-Egrets at the far end of the lake that I pretty much ignored because I have seen so many before.
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| Bob did photograph a Great Egret |
Sometimes I do that to the point where I don’t get any photos of a common bird throughout a whole trip. I did get some later, but I probably didn’t pay enough attention to these two species.
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There were quite a few Anhingas (here a female and male) ... |
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| ... mixed in with Neotropic Cormorants, especially when they roosted together before sunset |
We also watched a Ringed Kingfisher as it flew and perched.
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| Unfortunately backlit, but still cool to see |
It was a petty good afternoon for raptors. We saw …
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| A beautiful Black-collared Hawk that made ... |
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| ... a great swooping pass over the lake’s surface |
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| An Osprey that perched and then caught a fish |
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| A Yellow-headed Caracara that wasn’t as interested in entertaining us |
There was a lot of variety in the lush green foliage and mangroves along the opposite side of the lake, including four more lifers ...
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| Greater Anis |
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| Lesser Kiskadee |
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| Yellow-chinned Spinetail (I did get this Spinetail) |
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| Pied Water-Tyrant |
It wasn't until we reviewed our lists that I realized Alejandro wasn't saying "Tide Water Tyrant," which might also be a good name.
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| "Pied" means black-and-white, so this little guy is appropriately named |
Found in northern South America, the Pied Water-Tyrant primarily inhabits freshwater marshes and the margins of lakes and ponds, although it can be seen in nearby grasslands and gardens. It occurs mostly below 1,500 feet, but reaches over 3,000 in Colombia.
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| The white is so white! |
We also got a good look at a Purple Gallinule feeding up in the trees (normally, I see them in the water or on the ground).
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| Maybe it was eating spiders; it was surrounded by spider webs |
And, a Red-crowned Woodpecker was doing some acrobatics as it hung upside down to feed on some bean pods.
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| Showing off his red crown |
As usual, I had a few that escaped my camera, including a number of species that flew quickly over our heads as the boat's fabric canopy somewhat obscured my view. Among them were some were lifers that I was sad to miss: a Large-billed Tern, Short-tailed Swifts, Orange-chinned Parakeets and Orange-winged Amazons
I also failed to get a good shot of a Straight-billed Woodcreeper, also a lifer.
But, that’s OK, because there were two birds, both lifers, that absolutely made the afternoon.
First, was the Black-capped Donacobius, with its fierce face and striking yellow eyes.
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| That's a face! |
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| Caught moving from branch to branch |
Often vocal and conspicuous, it perches in the open (which is why I got great photos), often with a partner, and gives loud ringing calls and harsh chatter.
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| This bird was quite cooperative |
Mating for life, pairs of Black-capped Donacobiuses will engage in highly coordinated songs where the male and female sing notes in rapid succession, creating a single, seamless song. Adult offspring remain with their parents and help raise siblings from subsequent nesting periods in a system of cooperative breeding.
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| A good lifer |
The other special bird is the Northern Screamer, one of the birds Alejandro was targeting at this location.
We first saw them through a narrow window in the heavy foliage at the lake's edge.
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| We thought we were lucky for that glimpse |
Then, they flew over to a much more open area and posed!!!! These were awesome, huge birds like nothing I had ever seen before.
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| On the way across the lake |
Stout-bodied with a disproportionately small head, the Northern Screamer stands 30 to 36 inches tall and has thick red legs and giant feet. Alejandro told us that males fight with each other for territory using their powerful legs and feet. Their wings also have two sharp spurs. To protect their bodies, their skin has small, air-filled cavities that act like bubble wrap to insulate them from blows. In fact, when pressed, this structure can produce a crackling sound.
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| But, we know they have powerful legs, so why would you press their skin? |
These subcutaneous air pockets act, along with pneumatic (honeycomb) bones, to keep the heavy birds buoyant in their squishy, wet habitats.
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| An odd bird |
Although Northern Screamers are generally sedentary, they are rare, especially at the lower edge of their range, where we were. So, we were pretty excited.
They feed on the leaves, stems and roots of aquatic plants. They usually graze like geese, sometimes in loose flocks. They are very vocal, screaming with a single, rather high-pitched yelping call.
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| We didn't hear the call |
Listed as of Least Concern, with an estimated population of 60,000-130,000, Northern Screamers are affected by egg collecting and hunting, domestic and industrial pollution and urbanization.
The boat trip on Guarinocito Lake was one of my favorite activities on the trip ...
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| A nice end to a lovely day |
... and one that produced some of my favorite photos.
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| That face! |
La Victoria
We left as the sun was setting, heading to the Hotel Maria Paula in La Victoria for the evening.
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| The second window from the bottom right was my room; Photo: HMP |
We had a little drama when we arrived, when the clerk at the hotel could not find our reservations. It turns out that she had been using the wrong book listing guests (their system was completely manual) and had given away the rooms we were supposed to have.
They scrambled and sent us to other (not as nice) rooms in the back building. Both Heather and I got spacious rooms with a big windows (with a view of the gravel parking area), two beds, a TV (I never ever turned one on, but did have them some places), a bathroom (with, as I mentioned in my first installment, no hot water) and a fan.
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| Lobby and room; Photos: HMP |
Bob and Enid were given a smaller room with no window and no TV that appeared to be under construction. Obviously, it wasn't being used for guests because they had to ask for toilet paper and towels. They likened it to a prison cell and were, understandably, not happy.
After the pre-payment snafu at the first hotel, I was a bit nervous about PIB's trip planning. But, this was the last big mess-up, although, for some reason, Bob and Enid kept getting smaller rooms than Heather and me.
The hotel moved Bob and Enid to a better room in the front, nicer building the next night. They apologized profusely and offered us a six-pack of beer as an apology. I think it got left behind.
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| Early morning in La Victoria |
La Victoria, located on by the river in the Cauca Valley, has a population of 13,000 people.
Because our hotel didn’t have a restaurant, we ate our meals at several restaurants in town, giving us a bit more variety and a chance to see a little of Colombian life. Of course, I didn’t carry my camera with me the day a Cattle Tyrant came hopping into the restaurant to join us for breakfast, Fortunately, I saw more later. The town was bustling and friendly.
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| La Victoria; Photo: HMP |
The next morning, we birded at nearby Reserva Natural Bellavista. But, I am going to hold that for my next blog. Instead, I’ll finish here talking about La Victoria.
After our morning of birding, we returned to La Victoria for lunch and then went to the center of town for ice cream and birding. In the middle of the square was a giant kapok tree.
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| The kapok is the centerpiece of town |
These trees are special to me because I grew up near a kapok tree with a namesake restaurant in Florida, where they are not very common. They are common in South America and I wrote about them in detail in one of my blogs about the Sacha Lodge in Ecuador.
The tree in La Victoria, as well as the trees ringing it, turned out to be a great source of birds, including one of the endemics Alejandro had planned to search for later ...
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| The Velvet-fronted Euphonia |
It was working diligently, stripping the “paper” off a presumably abandoned Paper Wasp nest hanging from one of the kapok’s enormous branches.
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| Collecting good nest material |
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| There were several Blue-gray Tanagers in the tree ... |
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| And, Saffron Finches on the ground and in the tree |
There were some Carib Grackles, another Cattle Tyrant, a Social Flycatcher, a Streaked Flycatcher and a Masked Tityra that I didn’t see (I have seen them before).
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| I missed a Pale-breasted Thrush, which would have been a lifer, Bob got it |
I missed birds because I was distracted by Common Tody-Flycatcher in a nearby tree.
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| Resting for just a moment |
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| I felt redeemed watching this little guy industriously collecting fibers for its nest |
The weather was beautiful, the birds were lively and the ice cream was tasty. It was a successful break.
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| And, another endemic! |
Roadside Birding
Later that afternoon, we took a drive outside of La Victoria for some roadside birding on Carrera 7 beside the Río Guarino. The narrow road was shaded by a canopy of trees with marshes, fields and the river to search for birds.
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| Carrera 7 was occasionally busy |
Hiding back along a creek was a Capped Heron, a lifer for me, that sat still until a passing truck spooked it.
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| I would have liked some better views |
Another lifer, a Barred Puffbird, did its best to hide, but I did grab a few photos.
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| A cute little thing |
Late in the day, it is common to see flocks of Parrots or Parakeets whizzing by and, sometimes, you are lucky enough to see them land to roost for the night.
We saw fast-moving Orange-chinned Parakeets overhead, but then came upon a couple of Yellow-crowned Amazons, another lifer for me, in a big palm tree.
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| Roosting for the night |
They are fairly large, standing about 14 inches tall. Normally found in pairs or small flocks up to 30, they eat wild fruits, nuts, seeds, berries, blossoms and leaf buds, but have developed an appetite for maize and cultivated fruits.
Popular throughout the world as pets, they were traded within the Tiwanaku empire in what is now Bolivia from 1100-1450 AD, prior to the rise of the Incas in South America.
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| A rather large Parrot |
Their range is naturally east of the Andes but their remains have also been found at archeological sites west of the Andes, meaning that they were likely transported over the towering mountains and kept as pets by the people who lived at that time.
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| While we were watching the Amazons, a Crested Caracara flew into the same tree |
We found a Black Phoebe down by the river, but the day was waning and it was tough to see. The South American birds are a bit different than the North American ones.
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| These have white edging on wing feathers and limited white on the belly |
I also saw, but didn’t photograph, some familiar birds: a Roadside Hawk, a Red-rumped Woodpecker and a Southern Rough-winged Swallow. The others saw, but I missed, another Striated Heron.
It was a brief trip – spent birding and dodging big rigs plowing down the highway. But, the lifers made it worth it!
Then, we had dinner and turned in for another cold shower and night’s sleep.
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| La Victoria at night; Photo:BlogColombia |
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| Red-crowned Woodpecker, Bellavista |
Tour dates: March 7-28, 2026
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