If I Were Going...: Northwest Loop: Kootenai and Glacier

Beautiful Glacier National Park

We had sent Caty back on her way home and we were starting to make our way back, with a couple of detours. We had scrapped the Oregon Coast because of the extreme heat, opting instead to go to Glacier National Park and Yellowstone.

It is not unusual for us the change plans mid-trip. That’s why I book hotels with good cancelation clauses whenever possible. I also but annual travel insurance, as well.

Kootenai Falls

On our way to Glacier, we stopped briefly at Kootenai Falls.

Kootenai is a gorgeous turquoise cascade over rock terraces

We had been there several times before, first when traveling with the girls in 1993.

During that visit, we spent much more time, crossing the swinging bridge and playing on the falls’ terraces. This time, I just hiked down and took some photos before returning to Scott at the car. It was about 100 °F degrees, so I didn’t get too ambitious. Kootenai Falls is on the Kootenay River in northern Montana just east of the Idaho border. It think there are even a few more spellings than that floating around Idaho and Washington. The Kootenai are an indigenous people native to the area.

A lower cascade

It is the largest undammed waterfall in the state and one of the largest waterfalls in the United States by flow rate.

Rushing waters

Historically a sacred site to the local Kootenai Tribe, the falls became a popular tourist destination in the 2010s due to the Kootenai Falls Swinging Bridge just downstream.

Photo: LibbyMT.com

The bridge was built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps to help with U.S. Forest Service firefighting efforts.

The original footbridge was destroyed by a flood in 1948. Shortly thereafter, a new footbridge was built atop a pair of concrete piers in order to overtake the historic flood stage of the river.

Although the bridge was maintained throughout the following decades, it was rebuilt in 2019 due to its popularity as a tourist destination.

The falls have made appearances in movies such as The River Wild in 1994 and The Revenant in 2015.

Glacier National Park

St. Mary Lake, Glacier National Park

Then, it was on to Glacier National Park. I had hurriedly booked a cabin online when we made our travel plan changes. I was, quite frankly, shocked to find anything available in June, but we did get a room at the Glacier Haven Inn on Highway 2.

The Inn is advertised as being just minutes from the Park, which is technically accurate since the boundary is right across the highway. But, it was about 20 minutes from an entrance.

We prefer to stay in the Park, but it wasn't possible

It was actually fairly nice – just a motel room at a good price – except for one issue. Well, two issues. When we arrived, we figured there might be some highway noise because it sits right on Highway 2. There was a minor amount of noise – we had to open the windows because it was warm and the room was not air-conditioned – but it wasn’t too bad.

What we didn’t know was that the railroad tracks that were on the opposite side of the road further down the highway had crossed over and passed right behind our room. RIGHT BEHIND OUR ROOM!

I found this illustration of the issue on TripAdvisor; I guess other guests also noticed

It didn’t bother me the first night (I must have been very tired), but it woke me up and disoriented me the second night.

Because this was a spur of the moment trip, we had to be mindful of times and distances.

Graphic: NPS

Like many National Parks, Glacier has a reservation system during key hours. The reservations apply only to the West and St. Mary’s entrances, which are connected via Going to the Sun Road. They do not apply to Many Glacier, Two Medicine or Goat Lick.

Map: NPS

Obviously, we didn’t have reservations. So, we could go in after 5:00 p.m. or before 6:00 a.m. Since we were arriving fairly late in the day and we are used to early morning departures, this was no problem. Except, we wouldn’t be able to get back in if we left the Park during the reservation period. As it turned out, that was fine. We spent a little time in the Park the first evening, mainly exploring the area around Lake McDonald and the Flathead River overlooks on the West side.

Flathead River

Then, we headed out early the next morning, clearing the entrance kiosk well before 6:00 a.m. These times seems daunting, but remember, it’s light from 5:30 a.m. to almost 10:00 p.m. that far north in mid-summer.

The Moon hasn't set yet

We have been to Glacier National Park several times: 1993 as I mentioned, 2004 with the family and in 2013 on our way to and from Alaska.

On the way to Alaska, 2013; by the way, you cannot drive a trailer over Going to the Sun Road

Our history there has been spotty, with lots of rainy or foggy weather. This time was gloriously sunny (and a tad warm, but way better than the weather to the west).

About the Park

Reflection at Many Glacier

Sitting on the U.S./Canada border, Glacier National Park encompasses more than 1 million acres and includes parts of two sub-ranges – the Lewis and Livingston Ranges – of the Rocky Mountains, more than 700 lakes, more than 1,000 different species of plants and hundreds of species of animals.

There are two different sub-ranges of the rockies in the Park

At ten miles long and 464 feet deep, Lake McDonald is the largest, longest and deepest lake in the Park. The lakes remain cold year-round, with temperatures rarely above 50 °F at their surface. Cold water supports little plankton growth, keeping the water remarkably clear.

St. Mary Lake's super clear water

However, the lack of plankton lowers the rate of pollution filtration, so pollutants tend to linger longer.

Falls along Going to the Sun Road

More than 200 waterfalls are scattered throughout the park.

While we were there many were running very aggressively because warm weather was melting the snowpack. However, during drier times of the year, many of these are reduced to a trickle.

The area was first inhabited by Native Americans. Upon the arrival of European explorers, it was dominated by the Blackfeet in the east and the Flathead in the western regions. The Blackfeet considered the mountains the "Backbone of the World."

Sacred to the Blackfoot Peoples

The Lewis and Clark Expedition came within 50 miles of the area in 1806. In 1885 George Bird Grinnell participated in a hunting expedition into the area and, after several more visits, he became so inspired by the scenery that he spent the next two decades working to establish a National Park.

The Park is preserved for all of us

In 1891, the Great Northern Railway crossed the Continental Divide at Marias Pass near the southern boundary of the Park. Under pressure, the Blackfeet sold the mountainous parts of their treaty lands to the U.S. government for $1.5 million in 1895, with the understanding that they would maintain usage rights to the land for hunting and that the ceded area would be public land.

Shortly after the Park was established in 1910, the Great Northern Railway constructed several hotels and chalets, which are now listed as National Historic Landmarks, and began advertising the area as "America's Switzerland."

It does look like the Matterhorn

By 1932, work was completed on the 53-mile-long Going-to-the-Sun Road, later designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, which provided greater accessibility for automobiles into the heart of the Park.

The waterfall flows under Going to the Sun Road

The mid-point of Going-to-the-Sun Road crosses the Continental Divide at Logan Pass at 6,646 feet.

Logan Pass

In anticipation of the 100th anniversary of the Park in 2010, major reconstruction of the Going-to-the-Sun Road was completed.

Glacier National Park borders Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada; the two parks are known as the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park and were designated as the world's first International Peace Park in 1932.

On this trip, we only visited in daylight

Both Parks were designated by the United Nations as Biosphere Reserves in 1976, and in 1995 as World Heritage sites.

In 2017, the joint Park received a provisional Gold Tier designation as Waterton-Glacier International Dark Sky Park through the International Dark Sky Association, the first transboundary dark sky park.

GNP’s mountains began forming 170 million years ago when ancient rocks were forced eastward up and over much younger rock strata.

Lots of exposed rock

Known as the Lewis Overthrust, these sedimentary rocks have some of the finest examples of early life fossils on Earth. The mountains in the Park were carved by massive glacial action, which created U-shaped valleys and left behind moraines that impounded water to form lakes.

A quintessential glacial valley

There are six mountains in the Park over 10,000 feet in elevation; Mount Cleveland is tallest at 10,466 feet.

Steep and jagged peaks are the norm

Of the estimated 150 glaciers that existed in the Park in the mid-19th century during the late Little Ice Age, only 25 active glaciers remained by 2010. Scientists studying the glaciers in the park have estimated that all the active glaciers may disappear by 2030 if current climate patterns persist.

A glacier tucked in the mountains; Photo: Scott Stevens

The impact of glacier retreat on the Park's ecosystems is not fully known, but plant and animal species that are dependent on cold water could suffer due to a loss of habitat.

There is still snow in late June

Reduced seasonal melting of glacial ice may also affect stream flow during the dry summer and fall seasons, reducing water table levels and increasing the risk of forest fires, which are common in the Park. There has been a fire every year of the park's existence except 1964. The loss of glaciers will also reduce the aesthetic visual appeal that glaciers provide to visitors.

You can see a burn scar on the other side of the lake in the background

The Park has almost all its original native plant and animal species.

Flowers are everywhere

Large mammals such as Grizzly Bears, Bighorn Sheep, Moose and Mountain Goats, as well as rare or endangered species like Wolverines and Canadian Lynxes, inhabit the Park. We saw very few animals. But, we did spend a lot of time photographing a Bighorn Ram that had settled himself in perhaps the most photogenic location possible.

Posing in beautiful morning light

I have no idea what I will do with all the pictures I took.

This is a male Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep

But, I can tell you it was more spectacular than the photos indicate.

This view takes your breath away

During our visit, we saw quite a few Bighorn Sheep, many of them blocking traffic as they licked salt and minerals off the road near the highest elevations.

Sheep disrupting traffic near Logan Pass; the red bus is a Park tour vehicle

Of course, these sheep were not nearly as interesting as the one that was posing in from of the Reynolds Creek Falls.

Incredible!

We also spent some quality time with a Hoary Marmot that had held some French tourists captive by hunkering down under their rental car and refusing to budge. We helped coax it out.

A pesky Marmot

And, it obliged by posing.

Scott getting a shot

Hoary Marmots are related to, but have different coloration than the Yellow-bellied Marmots we have in Colorado. Hoary Marmots live further north; we have seen quite a few in Alaska.

The "Hoary" in the name comes from its "frosted" fur

Up near the top of Going to the Sun road, we saw some Columbian Ground Squirrels and Least Chipmunks.

Upper elevation rodents

We also briefly saw a Red Fox leaping through tall grass near the Trail of the Cedars area.

It took a huge pounce after this; I missed it

We stopped by the Goat Lick area, but saw nothing. In 2004, we did see Mountain Goats there.

A line of Mountain Goats, 2004

That same year, we also saw a huge Cinnamon Black Bear near Lake McDonald.

This guy was huge; at first we thought it was a Grizzly, 2004

In the past, we have also seen Moose in the Park, but not this time.

Young bull, 2004

Generally, we haven’t seen much wildlife in GNP. Except that gorgeous Bighorn!

Eventually, he left his beautiful perch

Hundreds of species of birds, more than a dozen fish species and a few reptiles and amphibian species have been documented. The Park has numerous ecosystems ranging from prairie to tundra. The easternmost forests of western redcedar and hemlock grow in the southwest portion of the Park.

There is ample fuel in the Park

And, about those birds. I had an experience similar to the Quinault rainforest in Olympic National Park. While walking the Trail of the Cedars Nature Loop, the cacophony of birds was practically deafening – especially since somewhere in the trees was a very loud Varied Thrush, which are known for volume. But, NOTHING made an appearance. Click below to listen.

Our Visit: The River

I mentioned that we spent some time photographing the Flathead River.

A great way to start the visit

There are a number of overlooks by some cascades not too far inside the West Entrance that provide a great opportunity to experience the power of the water as it rushes over some waterfalls and cascades.

Sacred Dancing Cascades

As you travel through the Park, it is obvious that there is a lot of water moving from the high places to the river ...

There are even walls of water

... therefore, it is no surprise that there are cascades, waterfalls and rapidly moving streams and rivers.

Our Visit: Trail of the Cedars

Me back in 2004

As I mentioned, we walked the Trail of the Cedars Loop, an easy walk through beautiful cedar and hemlock forest on a raised boardwalk.

This "hike" (more like a stroll) was one of my favorite memories of our 2004 trip to Glacier. On that day, it was rainy and drippy. This time it was early morning, so it was cool and a little damp. But, there was no rain this time -- and it was significantly warmer.

Much like Olympic and North Cascades, the trail was bordered by ferns, mosses, downed trees...

New vegetation grows from decaying plants

... and a wide variety of very green plants.

Even in the shade, the colors are vibrant

A highlight of the walk is the box canyon formed by Avalanche Creek.

Avalanche Creek

It was fun to watch and listen to the rushing waters.

There is a hike that branches off there to Avalanche Basin. On the day we were there, it appeared that everyone else in the Park was doing that hike.

We just stuck with the leisurely loop

Our Visit: Going to the Sun Road

Then, of course, we drove Going to the Sun Road. Stopping frequently to photograph views …

Early morning view

Forests and the Flathead River ...

The river from above

Distant waterfalls …

Falls across the valley

Close waterfalls …

Right off the side of the road

… and their attendant wildflowers …

Flowers by the falls

Hanging gardens...

Moisture seeping through the rocks is a good environment for mosses

As I mentioned, wildlife …

I love this guy!

And, top-of-the-pass wildflowers ...

Mid-summer flowers

We even indulged in a (possibly illegal) free carwash courtesy of the Weeping Wall Waterfall …

Fun …

Washing the dust off the windshield

Our Visit: St. Mary Lake

Once over the top, we spent some time on the East side at St. Mary Lake, the second-largest lake in the Park.

That little island is Goose Island

The lake is 9.9 miles long and 300 feet deep, with cold water that rarely exceeds 50 °F. During the winter, the lake is often completely frozen over with ice up to 4 feet thick.

The Park's second-largest lake

It is a stunningly beautiful area that is popular for selfies and family photos. I remember scrambling down a hill in 2004 to get this shot …

Scott, Caty and me in 1993 (I guess Becca took the picture)

St. Mary Lake walk

Now, there is a nice paved area where you can pose.

The opening scene in the 1980 Stanley Kubrick film The Shining was shot at Saint Mary Lake. It's interesting that Kubrick seemed to shoot everywhere BUT Colorado, where the book is set.

I took a quick little hike down to the shore of the lake, just to stretch my legs and have a little "at peace with nature" moment.

St. Mary Lake is probably one of the prettiest -- and most photographed -- areas of Glacier National Park.

Our Visit: Many Glacier

We also drove up to Many Glacier (realizing we would have to drive around the Park because we would not be granted re-entry), but road construction hampered the ability to do much sightseeing.