Texas Birding in April – The Caprock Escarpment and South Llano River State Park

Painted Bunting

Facebook is an evil creature. It taunts me with photos of birds and animals that I want to find and photograph. I belong to a Texas birding site and am blown away by the variety of birds I see in posts. One that I really wanted to see was the Painted Bunting – probably the most beautiful bird in the U.S.

So, I decided to go find some – along with a lot of other pretty birds. The two places that seemed to have the most to offer were South Llano River State Park near Junction, Texas, and The Quintana Neotropical Bird Sanctuary in Quintana, Texas, on the Gulf south of Houston.

Wildflowers; Quintana Neotropical Bird Sanctuary

Both were amazing.

This time I decided to drive so that I could have some flexibility if the birding and weather didn’t cooperate.

The Caprock Escarpment

Dramatic scenery for Texas

I like to drive through places that offer possibilities of pretty scenery or wildlife. In other words, not Interstate Highways unless I am in a hurry.

Photo: USGS National Map Viewer

My route took me through the Caprock Escarpment in Texas, a geographical transition point between the level high plains of the Llano Estacado and the surrounding hills. 

The colors of the hills are spectacular hues of red and gold. The roads are steep and winding. Lakes (including Lake MacKenzie, which is pictured below) look turquoise against the red rock. And, at the time I went, traffic was very light -- just a few farmers, some big trucks and a few tourists.

The escarpment passes through Texas and New Mexico. In Texas, it stretches about 200 miles south-southwest from the northeast corner of the Texas Panhandle near the Oklahoma border down to southwest Texas. It is very clearly visible in the shaded relief map to the right.

The escarpment is made of caliche -- calcium carbonate that resists erosion. In some places, the escarpment rises 1,000 feet above the plains to the east. Rivers and streams have created arroyos and canyons, including the large Palo Duro Canyon southeast of Amarillo. Palo Duro is often called the "Grand Canyon" of Texas. It's pretty, but it ain't no Grand Canyon!

MacKenzie Lake

Almost immediately upon reaching the Escarpment, I started to see Scissor-tailed Flycatchers. So close to Colorado, but they just don’t come our way!!! Of course, I stopped multiple times, attempting to catch them in pretty surroundings (tough, because they love wires and fences) and to catch them flying (virtually impossible because they are fast). 

Scissor-tailed Flycatcher

At one stop, I saw one on a fence. When I raised my camera, I startled about 30 more that were on the ground out of my view. I hadn’t seen them until they flew and I just wasn’t ready. I never saw that many again.

I did see a few other birds, including lots of American Kestrels …

Female Kestrel

The ubiquitous Western Kingbird and Loggerhead Shrike …

Two common "wire" birds

Vesper Sparrows …

Take off

Some Northern Shovelers and Blue-winged Teals in a tiny, muddy pond …

Shoveler and Teal

But, that was nothing compared to what was to come South Llano River State Park.

Brightly colored birds

I spent the night in Sweetwater, Texas, which is about nine hours from my house. I wanted to drive the full 12 hours to the park on the first day, but nearby lodging is limited and was pretty much sold out. So, I opted for Sweetwater and an early morning departure the next day.

I was a beautiful sunny day until (literally) the minute I arrived at South Llano. It clouded over and threatened rain. It never did much more than spit and the clouds may have slightly improved some of the photography. But, some of the birds would have benefited from bright sunlight. And, the impending rain put a damper on the idea of long hikes.

South Llano River State Park

Painted Bunting

Situated on the slow-moving spring-fed South Llano River on the southwestern edge of the Texas Hill Country, South Llano River State Park is very accommodating to birders. It has four blinds, where food and water attract the birds to relatively open, easy-to-photograph areas.

Juvenile Purple Martin

More than 250 species have been recorded at the park over the years. Of course, I didn’t see that many, but I did see my primary objective – Painted Buntings. Plus a lot more.

I spent the whole day moving among the four blinds. Some are quite small, and it can get too crowded with bird watchers (oh, yes, South Llano is no secret) to take pictures. By circulating, I was able to spend quality time – and get good pictures – at all of them.

Before I even hit a blind, I snapped a couple of Purple Martins at a Martin House at the Visitors Center. I realize that these are fairly common birds – well, I see lots of Martin houses – but these are the only actual Martins I have ever seen. I need to keep looking for the shiny purple ones.

At the blinds, I saw Painted Buntings -- the gorgeous multi-colored males …

One of North America's prettiest birds

 … and the very pretty green, yellow and bluish females …

The female is pretty, too

Black-crested Titmice (Titmouses?) – still one of the cutest birds around …

Black-crested Titmouse

Some really pretty male Blue Grosbeaks …

Blue Grosbeak

… and, some that were still growing in their lovely blue feathers (oddly, I saw only males) …

This one is in transition

Northern Mockingbirds …

Northern Mockingbird

Brown-headed Cowbirds – male and female …

Two Cowbirds

Northern Cardinals – these a bit more orange than I am used to seeing …

Male, female/juvenile/male Cardinals

Orange-crowned Warblers (that never show their crown)…

Orange-crowned Warbler

House Finches, some of the males astonishingly red …

Female and male House finches

Brilliant blue male Indigo Buntings …

So bright!

A pair of Ladder-backed Woodpeckers …

A pair of Woodpeckers

Lesser Goldfinches enjoying the bird bath -- both the female …

Bath time!

... and the male ...

A male Lesser Goldfinch

Pine Siskins …

Pine Siskin

Nashville Warblers …

The white eye-ring is a good field mark

Lots of Sparrows, including Field Sparrows, Chipping Sparrows, Lark Sparrows, Lincoln Sparrows, White-crowned Sparrows and Black-fhroated Sparrows …

Clockwise from upper left: Field, Chipping, Lark, Lincoln, White-crowned and Black-throated

Ruby-throated Hummingbirds (this is a male) …

A resting Hummingbird

One of my new birds – the Orchard Oriole …

More bath time

Summer Tanagers -- the pretty yellow female and the brilliant red male …

A female and a male Summer Tanager

And, lots of White-winged Doves …

A lovely Dove

Plus, on the trails, I saw a Bell’s Vireo …

Bell's Vireo

A Verdin ...

A bright yellow head

And, an inquisitive Blue-gray Gnatcatcher …

I love this little bird

I was a bit disappointed that, although two rare birds -- Golden-cheeked Warblers and Black-capped Vireos -- had been seen at South Llano River recently, I couldn’t find them. I heard the Vireo and talked to people who saw it, but I never found it. I guess I need to go back.

I didn't see many animals -- a few deer that scampered away and some black morph Rock Squirrels (all the squirrels I saw were black). These guys were really loving the abundance of bird seed.

Black-morph Rock Squirrel

I also saw some Impala in a fenced field next to the park. At first I thought I had found deer with weird antlers, but then I recognized them. Texas is full of game parks, so you never know what you will see.

South Llano River State Park is lovely, with picnic areas along the crystal-clear river. In the summer, it is apparently popular for tubing and canoeing. It was still a bit cool for swimming when I was there. The campground is very pretty. I think I’ll take the trailer next time I go.

Photo: Texas Parks and Wildlife

And, with its remoteness, South Llano River State Park is an International Dark Sky Park. I wasn’t there at night, but I can imagine that it is stunning.

Photo: Texas Parks and Wildlife

I stayed at a somewhat downtrodden motel about 12 miles away on the Interstate with nothing else nearby (as I said, the nearby lodging was booked). It was very cheap – and close enough – but it had an abandoned, horror-movie feel to it. The issue was that it was recently bought by a young couple who were in the process of renovating. They were nice but have a little way to go before I could recommend staying there. But, it was cheap!

I contemplated returning to South Llano early the next morning but opted to press on. I was afraid that once I got there, I wouldn’t leave, and I wanted to see what Quintana had to offer. We will talk about that in the next post.

Hooded Warbler, Quintana Neotropical Bird Sanctuary

Trip date: April 19-24, 2018