Grand Canyon Rafting #4

Colorado River at Whitmore Wash from the helicopter

This is the final blog on my Grand Canyon rafting experience.

So, what is it like to traverse all these rapids? Great fun and occasional discomfort that is far outweighed by the great fun. The rides through the rapids can be rough. For the small ones, you hold on with one hand, leaving the other free for your camera. 

Photo: Scott Stevens

On the big ones, you hold on with both hands and are not allowed to use a hand to hold a camera. That’s why the Go-Pro on a head strap was such a good idea.

It is important when riding a rapid to hold tight but remain loose. You need to rest your feet gently on the pontoons, which can move rather violently as you are whipped around. 

From the raft

If you brace, you can wrench a knee (which I did during Lava Falls on the final day on the River). You also need to be cognizant of your seatmates. I was elbowed, stepped on and rammed quite a few times. I tried very hard not to do that to others. Plus, you need to be careful to get your own photos and videos without blocking others. I ended up with lots of photos and videos that featured Scott’s hand and cell phone. Fortunately, I was able to edit most out.

Cell phone intrusion

You have to be aware of “pinch points” on the raft. Since it is multiple pieces strapped together, it is possible to crush water bottles, cameras or hands. It is also possible to lose things in the cracks. They do allow people to ride the pontoons for smaller rapids -- not for the big ones. That was not something I wanted to do!

Riding the pontoon

And, you have to be prepared to get wet. Sometimes it’s a little splash or a fine spray. Sometimes it is a full-on bucketful of water – hitting you like a sockdolager. Sunglasses and a firmly anchored hat or hood (or both) are imperative. Plus, you must remember to reapply sunblock after a few trips through the “carwash.”

Everyone gets wet

OK, back to the trip ... 

After lunch, we traveled another nine miles through Bass Rapid (5-foot drop, rated 4-5), Shinumo Rapid (8-foot drop, rated 3-4), 110 Mile Rapid (17-foot drop, rated 2-3), Hakatai Rapid (8--foot drop, rated 3-4), Walthenberg Rapid (14-foot drop, rated 6-7) and 113 Mile Rapid (rated 4).

Elves Chasm; photo: Fellow Traveler Meredith

Then, we stopped at Elves Chasm, a popular side canyon with a small clear-flowing stream with waterfalls, multiple pools and ferny vegetation. 

I remember the name Elves Chasm, but can’t actually recall seeing it. It must have been a hike I didn’t take. 

I wish I had taken some notes on the trip because, although I thought I would remember everything, I didn’t. 

It looks pretty from the pictures but must have required some scrambling to get to. 

I guess, at this point, I was in awesomeness overload. I don't even recall what I was doing while people were hiking.

I hate missing stuff because of my fear of rock scrambling, but, on the other hand, after my fall in Africa, I really don’t want to risk ruining a trip with another injury. I am, after all, 65 years old. I just need to know my limits.

Then, back in the river, a trip through 119 Mile Rapid (rated 3) and immediately out of the water to camp at Big Dune, which is exactly what you would expect it to be – a big sand dune.

On the first three days, we had ridden in the raft driven by Expedition leader Brie. As we all know, humans have a tendency to stake a place and keep sitting in the same place over and over again. We tried to resist that temptation. 

Riding in Timmy's raft

Scott and I changed seats often and, on Day 4, we decide to ride in Timmy’s boat instead of Brie’s. That gave us a different perspective. This time we could watch the boat in front of us go through the rapid first instead of us going first.

Riding in Timmy's raft; photo by Scott

Our observation was that Timmy was a bit more gentle, maneuvering to minimize splashes. Brie plowed us through it. Of course, it could have just been a difference in rapids, but it may have been a matter of style.

Brie's raft; photo: Fellow Traveler Robert

The morning gave Timmy a lot of opportunities to splash us, starting with Blacktail Rapid (rated 3) and followed by, in just ten miles, Mile 122 Rapid (4-foot drop, rated 4), Forster Rapid (7-foot drop, rated 3-6), Fossil Rapid (15-foot drop, rated 5-6), 127 Mile Rapid (rated 3), 128 Mile Rapid (8-foot drop, rated 4), Specter Rapid (6-foot drop, rated 6), Bedrock Rapid (8-foot drop, rated 8, where the river splits around a very large rock outcropping and going left can mean getting stuck for days) and Deubendorff Rapid (15-foot drop, rated 7-8).

Now, we were in the Middle Granite Gorge, the second of the Grand Canyon’s three steep schisty gorges. Our trip would end before the third gorge, which is part of the three-day motorized trip.

Vishnu Schist walls

This day we combined lunch with a hike at Stone Creek. It’s a pretty little chasm where you could stand under a waterfall. Scott didn’t go, so I don’t have pictures of me doing it, but I did! 

Stone Creek hike

If you got back into the full force of the fall, it was pretty intense. Standing on the edge was just pleasant. At the right, that's John, getting the full falls experience.

Stone Creek Falls; right photo: Fellow Traveler Meredith

One of the things about the guides – when they led a hike, they took off like a shot. If you were still tying down your life jacket or hanging your rain gear to dry or peeing, you could be easily left behind. I had to really book it to catch up with the group for this one (actually, I had to do that a couple of times).

After lunch, we went through two more rapids -- Tapeats Rapid (15-foot drop, rated 4-5) and 135 Mile Rapid (10-foot drop, rated 4, also called Helicopter Eddy). At this point, the Vishnu Schist was hemming us in and we passed through the Granite Narrows, the narrowest point of the Grand Canyon, where the River is only 76 feet wide.

Canyon narrows

Our next stop was both lovely and excruciatingly hot. At Deer Creek Falls, there is a beautiful waterfall that cascades through a slot canyon above. You can see it from the beach and also walk back about 200 yards along a stream and over a few rocks to see it closer. It’s a level, easy trail.

Deer Creek Falls

The spring-fed waterfall lands in a very shallow pond, the spray creating a natural air-conditioner. That's great and would be good protection from the sun, which seemed exceptionally intense at this stop. 

But, unlike a lot of other stops we made, this one was somewhat crowded with at least one other rafting group.

Deer Creek Falls

That made it difficult to just hang out at the falls. 

After exploring for awhile, I went back down to the river's edge.

Our guides also urged us to participate in a much longer hike, up the sandstone wall and across the top of the waterfall slot to a mesa-top meadow called Surprise Valley. 

We pressed for details and they explained that there was some scrambling and a place where you had to inch along a very narrow ridge with a steep drop off. 

Nope. Nope. Nope. This was definitely NOT a good hike for the feint of heart or clumsy of feet. Despite the fact that Brie, who could hop like a Mountain Goat across the raft or climb like a Gecko up a cliff, thinks that Surprise Valley is the prettiest place in the Grand Canyon, I did not go. Neither did Scott.

Surprise Valley hike; photos: Fellow Traveler Meredith

A fairly good-sized group went, but many of us stayed behind. 

Unfortunately, while they were gone, there wasn’t a lot to do, there were few places to sit and it was hot. 

Seeking shade at Deer Creek Falls

Very hot. Very. Hot. 

The sun was so intense that it was difficult to bear. There was a tiny slice of shade by the rock wall that many of us took advantage of (and ARR did provide an umbrella), but even that got a little crowded. 

So, I waded in the water, poured some water over myself to cool off and played with my waterproof camera -- even trying some underwater shots of the tiny fish in the stream. The water was a bit too murky to produce any good results.

Photo: Scott Stevens

Some of the hikers came back early rebuffed by what they described as an exceedingly narrow ledge (with, as I mentioned before, a drop that could kill you). 

Once everyone was back, the ones who did complete the hike said that, even though Surprise Valley is lovely, they were surprised that the guides would recommend it. One even questioned how the backpackers they passed were going to make it across the ledge wearing packs. If it is that narrow, no thank you! I am glad I didn’t take this hike. 

Actually, I don’t really regret any of my hiking decisions. Oh, I do wish I were braver. But, I am not. The trip was wonderful with what I saw and did. I didn’t really need more.

After Deer Creek Falls, it was a very quick jaunt – maybe a half mile – to our camping site, Football Field. Here there are three campsites lined up next to each other and we had other raft groups camping nearby. I didn’t really notice them except some guys fishing near our camp and one that hiked right past our toilet site (I am not sure if an embarrassing moment ensued or not). The guides all seemed to have a good time catching up with each other that evening – it did get a little loud, but all in good fun.

Photo: Scott Stevens

Although the trip is advertised as six days on the river, we only had five. The usual schedule has the rafts heading toward, but stopping a couple of hours short of, the helipad. But, our guides informed us that we were going to be the first group to be helicoptered out of the Canyon on Day 6. 

Photo: Fellow Traveler Robert

That meant that we needed to cover almost 50 miles on Day 5. 

That sounded like it would be a long, rushed day, but it wasn’t. 

The pace seemed to be about the same and I didn’t feel that we lost anything by finishing up early. 

Plus, we didn’t have to repack and unpack on the last morning like all the other groups had to. We just had to get up and go (well, not really -- more on that later).

Day 5 was, however, a really cool day with an aborted landing, a cool hike and the gnarliest rapids. Once again, we got right to it with a jam-packed line-up of rapids: Doris Rapid (5-foot drop, rated 5-6), 138.5 Mile Rapid (rated 3), Fishtail Rapid (10-foot drop, rated 5), 141 Mile Rapid (4-foot drop, rated 2), Kanab Rapid (12-foot drop, rated 2-5), 145.5 Mile rapid (rated 3), Matkatamiba Rapid (3-foot drop, rated 2), Upset Rapid (15-foot drop, rated 6-8) and Sinyala Rapid (2-foot drop, rated 2-3).

Upset Rapid features a unique memorial to Shorty Burton, the first lead boatman for Hatch River Expeditions.

Photos: Hatch River Expeditions

Shorty drowned on the river in 1967 when his boat flipped in Upset and his life jacket caught on an open eyebolt, holding him underwater. 

Shorty was known as much for his Dutch oven pies as he was for rafting. 

As a memorial, Hatch nailed a pie tin to a rock near the rapid. For years, the National Park Service removed it and, when the "Hatch boys" saw that it was gone, they replaced it. 

Based on the rusted condition of the current tin (not nice and clean like the one above), I think Hatch has won this one. 

It is interesting that most – not all – of the rapids named after a person are honoring someone who perished in the Canyon. It’s an honor you do not want to earn. Luckily some parts of the river are just calm and beautiful, as in this video from Scott.

Our next stop provided a little drama, but I got NO pictures because I had packed everything up to disembark. The plan was to stop at Havasu Creek and hike a short way into Havasu Canyon, which is famous for is beautiful turquoise water. The guides underscored that this stop was dangerous because it’s the one place along the trip where they have to park and tie up the boats in a rapid, meaning that we also had to get off and on the rafts in a rapid -- Havasu Canyon Rapid (3-foot drop, rated 2-4).

Photo: Arizona River Runners

Several years ago, a tourist who was not wearing a life jacket slipped on the rock ledge, fell into the rapid and was sucked under four docked rafts. The head of ARR, who was piloting a raft that day, pulled her out by her hair as she popped up from under the boats. 

Had he not, she would have surely drowned. Since then, all guests have to wear life jackets until well clear of the rock ledge.

I was contemplating how much of the hike I wanted to do. It appeared that Havasu Creek was very similar to the Little Colorado River – the same milky travertine-infused turquoise water and some small rapids. The difference was that Havasu is a very popular spot for both private and commercial rafters. That was obvious as we approached – there were already some small rafts parked in the creek (which has sheer walls; I have no idea how they got out of the boats and onto land) and some other ARR and Western rafts parked at the ledge.

Brie; photo: Scott Stevens

Brie edged in first. I could see how difficult it was to fight the current and get a slot. Riley jumped off with a rope and started tying off Brie’s raft while Timmy brought our raft in. 

Timmy is new at driving. This may have been his first attempt to park in the Havasu Creek Rapid. 

A helper from another raft was walking along our pontoon trying to tie us up, Timmy was trying to get in position and Brie seemed concerned. 

Then, just as suddenly, Brie was being pulled backwards and drifting away. Riley, still holding the rope, managed to get on our raft before we pulled back out and followed Brie. 

We had missed the landing. 

The reason soon became obvious – the webbing on Brie’s rope had broken, releasing here raft. I am glad that happened BEFORE anyone got off the raft!

Although no one was hurt, there were casualties: as the rafts banged against each other, several beers in the drop sack were crushed. Oh, the humanity!

Brie and Timmy explained that that landing is tough and it’s not unusual to miss it. Plus, they had another plan – we were going to stop a National Canyon for a hike. We just had one rapid -- 164 Mile Rapid (4-foot drop, rated 2), before pulling into a broad beach at National Canyon. 

National Canyon

Unlike Havasu, we were the only people there. And the site was quite different than Havasu – a broad, winding canyon following interesting sculpted walls and a meandering stony creek. 

Scott captured most of the hike on the Go-Pro, but somehow missed the waterfall (turning that Go-Pro on and off on year forehead can be tricky). Still, it’s a nice overview …

It ended with a small slot waterfall that landed in a neck-deep pool. We all took turns swimming under the fall.

National Canyon

Several of our group climbed to the top and jumped into the pool. It wasn’t very deep, so they had to be careful, but all of them managed to survive. A special treat was an American Dipper nest cemented to the side of the cave behind the waterfall.

National Canyon; right photo: Scott Stevens

The hike was a warm one, but I discovered a secret that would work only in the desert. I soaked my clothes in the cold river water before the hike. That kept me cool for the hike, but, because it is so arid, it isn’t cloying or oppressive. The perfect solution – and the reason you need to take quick-dry clothing made out of light-weight material. 

I have to say it, I was so happy that Havasu failed. National Canyon was a much better option. It was a beautiful hike with lots of unique features. The waterfall swim was delightful. And, the baby birds were an added treat.

Left, National Canyon rocks; right, American Dipper chicks

Now, for the last run, which included National Rapid (5-foot drop, rated 2), Fern Glen Rapid (3-foot drop, rated 2) and Gateway Rapid (10-foot drop, rated 3) before we did the most famous rapid in the Grand Canyon.

It was during this phase of the trip that we saw a number of Desert Bighorn Sheep grazing along the edge of the River. It is amazing how they get round in the steep Canyon.

Watching a male Desert Bighorn Sheep

But, what we were really looking forward to was Lava Falls. Lava Falls Rapid (rated 10) and Lower Lava Rapid (rated 4-5) drop a combined 37 feet over the span of several hundred yards. It allegedly has a hole in it the size of a school bus. Of course, we couldn't see that. In fact. much of the time, all we could see was water coming at us.

Video grab: Scott Stevens

The scenery as we approached the rapid gives a clue as to its geology. Massive volcanic eruptions 73,000 years ago covered the river, diverting its path and leaving huge lava walls, boulders and debris fields.

Lava flows in the Grand Canyon

The lava field is the result of at least 150 lava flows originating from 213 individual small volcanic cones off to the north that spewed predominantly basaltic lava. The lava cascaded into the Grand Canyon, resulting in a series of major lava dams that created a chain of ancient lakes that lasted for nearly 20,000 years before the river carved a new canyon through them, creating Lava Falls and Lower Lava Rapids. 

Spring erupting from Canyon walls

It’s only 20 seconds to get through the first rapid and about the same for the second, but it’s awesome – and it’s a great ending to a wonderful trip.

Video grab: Scott Stevens

Of course, it’s a soaking experience. This video I found on YouTube makes me glad we had clear water. The mud does not look fun.

Lava Falls; left photo: Google Earth; right, looking back on the rapids

But, we had beautiful clear water, so this is what we experienced.

Left photo; Fellow Traveler Meredith; right photo: Fellow Traveler Eric

After Lower Lava, it’s pretty calm with just one small rapid – 185 Mile Rapid (2-foot drop, rated 2) before we hauled out at the Whitmore Helipad campsite, 187 miles from where we started.  

Final night camp; photo: Scott Stevens

No, we did not do the entire Grand Canyon. There are actually about 86 more miles but, according to our guides, a lot of that is flat, wide and hot. The trip that was completing our circuit (new people coming in and going with our crew on to Lake Mead) would take another three days. I was very happy with the length of our trip. I guess if I ever want to say I’ve done the entire Canyon, I can just sign up for the short trip.

Video grab: Scott Stevens

Whitmore Helipad is the one campsite that is not first-come, first-camp. It’s reserved for the first group to be airlifted out. This is the first place along our route where transport helicopters are allowed to land – rescue ones can land in some other spots. And, the reason they are allowed to land here is because the south side of the river has left the jurisdiction of the National Park Service and is now part of the Hualapai reservation.

We decided we’d give cot-sleeping a try this night and, I have to admit, it wasn’t too bad. And, the night sky was absolutely spectacular.

Photos: Scott Stevens

It would have been better had we not, once again, gotten poor placement. We were right out in the middle of the site with no privacy, but we were leaving the next morning.

That night, after dinner, Scott took a group picture. I wonder why we didn’t do that on Day 1 when we looked a lot fresher. But, I guess this was more authentic.

Photo: Scott Stevens

River Rat pin

The guides presented us with small gold  "River Rat" pins to commemorate our journey. If you ever see one, it means the wearer has rafted through the Grand Canyon.

One of the awkward things about the trip is tipping. ARR recommends giving the crew about 10 percent of the trip cost. You have to pay by check or cash. It would be a lot easier if you could just charge it.

On the morning of departure, we packed up cots, chairs and tents just as we would have any morning. Then we emptied our day packs and packed our big dry packs with the sleeping bag, tarp and pillow. We turned the sheets in separately. The crew then added sheet bags to the packs. The next group would use our dry bags day bags, pillows and sleeping bags. They would cover the sleeping bags with the sheet bags. I took a pillowcase for the pillow and assume the next group had been instructed to do the same. I think if I did this again, I might take my own sheet.

From the copter

The Helipad sits right next to the campsite on a raised hill. The process for departure is pretty simple. Our crew watered the pad down with a hose (the hose and the windsock were the first man-made things we had seen in ages except Shorty’s pie tin).

Helicopter arrives

The helicopter arrived on time, circling down and then running down the River a short distance before landing. The crew, except the pilot, jumped out, I-pads and scale in hand, ready to take on passengers. And, the first few folks on the follow-on trip disembarked. Here's what that arrival looked like (video from Scott) ...

As it turned out, Scott and I were in the first group. They weighed our bags and weighed us. A program weight-loaded and gave us our seat assignments. Yay! I got the front next to the pilot. Then, waving good-bye to our companions, we lifted off and headed down the Canyon and then up over Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument to the Bar 10 Ranch.

Whitmore Wash campsite

And, here's Scott's video of the departure ... and the landing.

I realized as we flew along that every other helicopter I had been on was a tour and thus traveled slowly. This was transport and we booked it to the ranch. 

View from the helicopter

In just a few minutes, we were setting down. 

Bar 10 Landing strip; right photo: Bar 10 ranch

They off-loaded our bags and on-loaded passengers going to the River and they were off again. The whole time we were at Bar 10, there was a constant in-and-out of what I think was two helicopters.

Second helicopter inroute to Whitmore Wash

After we arrived, we checked in at the “gate” – a table with a whiteboard – to get the time for our departure to Marble Canyon. We had about 45 minutes. Oh, and no one asked to see our IDs.

Located less than 10 miles from the North Rim, Bar 10 Ranch & Guest Lodge runs a brisk rafting exchange business, but it is also a dude ranch. 

Tony Heaton and his wife, Ruby, founded the ranch in the early 70s, continuing the family’s five generations of ranching on the “Arizona Strip.”

Bar 10 Ranch House; photo: Bar 10 Ranch

To improve access to the ranch, the Heatons built an airstrip.  

They quickly realized they could augment ranch business by providing air service to and from Las Vegas (and later Marble Canyon) for rafters and rafting companies. 

Originally, rafters rode mules up the from the Colorado River to the Rim near Whitmore Wash and then rode an old school bus to the airstrip at the Bar 10. Later, the helicopters replaced the mules. Now, that’s an improvement.

Bar 10 Ranch is also a dude ranch. The Bar 10 can sleep about 50 people in its lodge, covered wagons and cots on the grand deck. 

Photo: Bar 10 Ranch

The Ranch offers skeet-shooting, horseback, ATV and UTV rides, often to Grand Canyon lookout points. It also has Western entertainment shows, a nature center and trail, volleyball, billiards and a roping station! The folks on the three-day trip spend a day at the ranch.

But, the best thing a Bar 10?? Flush toilets and hot showers. Really nice hot showers. We rented big fluffy towels, took a shower and put on clean (cleanish with all the sand in my luggage) clothes before our flight back to Marble Canyon. It felt so good.

The flight back on eight-seat Grand Canyon Airlines was a nice treat, too, with beautiful views of Grand Canyon-Parashant, Grand Staircase-Escalante and Vermillion Cliffs National Monuments. We had hoped for a good Grand Canyon view, but that was not in the cards.

Trip to Marble Canyon

Because we were on the first helicopter and the first plane, we got back to Marble Canyon really early. I had booked a night at the lodge there because I didn’t know how late we’d be and I anticipated that we would be sunburned and exhausted. But, we were clean and well-rested. So, we decided to head to the North Rim and try to get a room for the night. It’s only a two-hour drive, so we figured we could come back if we couldn’t get a room. We got lucky, however, and were able to stay at the North Rim for two nights.  But, that’s for the next post.

North Rim

I think I covered this trip in more detail than needed and probably didn’t miss a point, but I have a few observations.

The trip was the perfect length – long enough to really immerse in the wilderness but no too long to tire of it.

Scott chilling out

May was a great month. There were a few times when it was hot when we stopped for the night, but as soon as the sun went over the Canyon wall, it was fine. And, with the high Canyon walls, that happened pretty early. We had no rain and the River was a gorgeous color and very clean.

Left, hanging garden on Canyon Wall; right, Canyon beach; left photo: Scott Stevens

Arizona River Runners is a class act. They delivered exactly what they promised. They provided excellent pre-trip information. They made us feel safe. The food was excellent and plentiful …

Riley cooking dinner

And, the crew was fantastic – personable, skilled and lots of fun ...

Calvin, Brie, Timmy, Riley; photo: Fellow Traveler Meredith

... good cooks, too ...

Timmy grills steaks on our final night

Our fellow travelers were interesting and fun.

Left photo: Scott Stevens; right: video grab, Scott Stevens

Even though everything is so vivid while you are doing it, it is impossible to remember all the details. I should have taken notes every night to help blog after the fact. Or, if I had bought the Belknap's Guide in advance, I probably could have built a framework for notes.

Guide

I should have taken more photos of people and camp life -- and I wish, wish, wish I had gotten photos at Havasu. I have a tendency to go just for beauty. I need history and action as well.

Loading the raft

I waited too long to take this trip but am so glad I finally did it. It just took 43 years to get around to it. I’d do it again tomorrow if I could, but I can’t because it’s too expensive to do twice in one year. Plus, because of high demand, NPS rules limit an individual to one raft trip per rafting season (May to September).

Brie being enthusiastic

About 27,000 people raft the Colorado River every year. I am glad we were two of them.

Scott after a good run

And, just for fun, let's watch one more that Scott shot.

Trip date (rafting): May 15-20, 2018