On Our Way to Greenland

The Ocean Explorer, Warming Island, Greenland

Finally, after years of waiting, we were beginning our trip to Greenland. 

We drove back to Reykjavik with few stops. What started as sunny got increasingly gloomy the closer we got to Iceland’s capital city. We checked into our hotel – the Reykjavik Marina – which was literally within sight of where we would embark upon our ship.

 

Our hotel; Photo: Berjaya Iceland Hotels

When we booked the trip, our original plan had been to return our rental car to Keflavik and take the flybus into Iceland’s capital city. But, after the confusion and frustration of waiting over two hours to pick up our car upon arrival, I changed the reservation so that we would return the car we had in the city and then pick up a car after we returned in the city. After our short Snæfellsnes trip after our cruise, we’d take that car back to the airport. 

This was not without risk. The last time we picked up a car in Reykjavik, the rental car office was not where all our paperwork and the internet said it was. It had moved about 1.5 miles (that we walked on an unseasonably hot Icelandic day) away. I had had this happen about three other times with in-city rental car offices, so I was skeptical. 

While the office was (sort of) where it was supposed to be, the drop off was not without drama. First, there were TWO facilities -- one on a small side street and one on top of a parking structure across the street (a bit tricky to find). 

Two offices with a roadway between them

Both had offices and both were closed for the day. We finally deciphered what we thought we had to do -- leave the car at the top of the parking structure and then schlep the keys back to a drop box at the other office. Then, we had to take a cab back to the hotel and the offices were remote enough that we had to figure out how to call a cab. 

Luckily a clerk in the nearby Bakarameistarinn-Holtagarðar bakery helped us call a cab and we made it back to the hotel.

Plus! A chance to try a great bakery! Photos: Bakarameistarinn

The next day was mainly waiting. We had to check in for the tour at 9:00 a.m. and check out of the hotel by 11 a.m., but we didn’t actually board the ship until after 4:00 p.m. Scott went on several walks, but I ended up just sitting with our luggage in the lobby. 

Sun Voyager sculpture and Harpa, Reykjavik's concert hall; Photos: Scott Stevens

The most frustrating travel days are those you spend waiting for something fun to happen. Of course, I occupied myself with processing photos (ones you just saw in my previous blogs). 

While waiting, we talked to several people who had just sailed back from Greenland, which amplified our weather anxiety. They reported rough seas, constant cold, rain and fog and even one ship that left Greenland early and cruised the coast of Iceland to escape bad weather. 

Yikes! What were we sailing into? 

Quark Expeditions

Our trip was with Quark Expeditions. 

Quark exclusively offers Arctic and Antarctic itineraries

Headquartered in Seattle, Quark was founded in 1991 by Mike McDowell and Lars Wikander and, in 1998, McDowell sold his interests to Wikander. In 2007, the company became part of the UK-based TUI Travel Group and, in 2016, parts of TUI, including Quark, became part of Travelopia.

Quark Expeditions operates cruises during the Northern Hemisphere summer to Greenland, Svalbard, Iceland, Canada's High Arctic and the Northwest Passage. These voyages emphasize Arctic wildlife including Polar Bears, Walruses, Muskoxen and migratory bird species, as well as cultural interactions with indigenous communities in Greenland and Nunavut. 

We saw these in Svalbard in 2019 and hoped to repeat

Quark's Antarctic season generally runs from November to March, with departures from Ushuaia, Argentina, across the Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula (we traveled to Antarctica with G Adventures in 2023). 

Quark is a long-time member of the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AAECO) and of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), which promote and commit to environmentally responsible tourism and sustainability. 

The goal is to protect the environment for future generations

Our ship, the Ocean Explorer, was quite nice – definitely newer and nicer that G Adventures’ G Expedition. 

The Ocean Explorer with all passengers on deck; Photo: Scotty Sinton

Purpose-built for polar exploration, the 342-foot-long 138-passenger vessel has an inverted bow, designed to ensure comfortable and smooth sailing. 

The website calls the cabins “spacious” and that’s no lie. 

Our cabin was huge for a cruise ship (even for a hotel room)

A real shower with a door!

Because of its location near the staircase, I think our cabin was larger than others of the same classification and price. 

We were in room 416

The ship has a “modern, bespoke Scandinavian design,” so nice compared to the garish design found on some cruise ships. 

Almost all cabins have verandas; Photos: Scott Stevens

Ocean Explorer has lots of outdoor viewing areas and multi-height outer decks. 

Enjoying the view and (spoiler alert) sunshine

The vessel is equipped with a fleet of 15 Zodiacs for exploration and landings.

A favorite way to travel; Left: Paola Palavecino; Right: Scott Stevens

Public areas, where one can spend a lot of time while at sea, include a two-story library at the bow of the ship with huge windows (especially good for watching the waves during the rough spots) ...

Library; Photo: Quark

A lovely dining room where both buffets were offered for breakfast and dinner and served meals were provided for most dinners. Seating was completely open (none of that cruise ship-assigned seating, reservations or whatever) ... 

Good variety and quite good; Food photos: Cruise Critic

The Latitude Bar ...

Getting a drink; Left: Quark; Right: Scott Stevens

A sauna, fitness center and two Jacuzzis, none of which I used 

Who has time? Photos: Quark

An observation lounge, where educational programs and trip briefing and recaps were held.

A photography session led by Scotty Sinton

As with trips of this type, the guides are all subject matter experts who drive Zodiacs, lead hikes, give lectures and generally made sure we were safe. 

Amalia Goodall, Expedition Leader, looking for Polar Bears in Immikkeertikajik 

The team on this trip included: 

Amalia Goodall, Expedition Leader

Sarah Norbury, Expedition Coordinator

David Dieckfoss, Expedition Guide

Callum Findley, Expedition Guide 

Steffen Graupner, Expedition Guide 

Austin Hart, Expedition Guide 

Paola Palavecino, Expedition Guide 

Scott Sinton, Photography Guide 

Lana Bendtsen, Cultural Educator 

Norm Lasca, Geology and Glaciology Presenter 

Ian Gordon, History Presenter 

Nick Englemann, Marine Biology Presenter 

Jean Pennycook, Ornithology Presenter 

Kristoffer Korol, Paddle Excursion Guide 

Eze (Luciano) Benencia, Paddle Excursion Support 

Ryan Seigal, Sea Kayak Guide

Hongwei Wang, Mandarin Expedition Guide 

Yukie Hayashi, Logistics Coordinator 

Gillian Millet, Guest Services 

Adrienne Darhower, MD, Ship’s Doctor

Kristoffer, Paola and Yukie

We didn’t interact with everyone, but many did double duty as Hiking or Zodiac Guides, so we did spend time with most. I found the staff to be well-informed, extremely helpful and obviously in love with the region.

Our Expedition Team; Photo: Scotty Sinton

The ship's staff was attentive and helpful.

A cute surprise in our room

Embarking

Boarding was relatively painless; it is so much easier on a ship with 138 passengers vs. 2,500!

All aboard! Left and bottom right: Scotty Sinton; Top right: Scott Stevens

When we finally got underway, we sailed out of Reykjavik Harbor, enjoying some (slightly misty) views of the city.

The full Harpa building

We headed out in light rain and dark seas. Was this going to be a miserable trip? 

Höfði Lighthouse, Reykjavik Harbor; Left photos: Scott Stevens

A little way out from Reykjavik, we saw a spectacular rainbow.

It started as a single; Photo: fellow traveler

And, then became a double; we all hoped it was a good omen

Among our first-afternoon activities were trying on (and, in my case, exchanging) our Quark-provided expedition jackets (ours to keep) ...

Warm and highly visible in an arctic environment

A mandatory safety briefing and trip to our muster station ... 

As close as we got to using the Jacuzzi (sitting on the steps)!

A departure toast ...

Bon voyage

It was here that we met a group of about 20 people all in Polar Bear suits. 

Talk about getting into the spirit of the trip! Photos: Sandesh

A few days later, we also had to try on our muck boots (loaners), which we had to wear for all off-ship expeditions and landings ...

I take foam inserts to make them more comfy; Photo: Scotty Sinton

The Denmark Strait

I had read the trip description and looked at maps, but it never sunk in that our first day and three-quarters would be just getting to Greenland. Nor, did it register that, like the Drake Passage to Antarctica, the path to Greenland could be rough.

I had a scopolamine patch; I was fine (many weren't)

So, the first part of our trip was getting acclimated and holding on to rails as the ship rock-and-rolled around the west coast of Iceland and then across the Denmark Strait to Greenland. 

The Denmark Strait; Left: Wikipedia

This deep-water channel between Greenland and Iceland connecting the Arctic and Atlantic Oceans is 300 miles long and 180 miles wide. 

It is famous for the Denmark Strait cataract, the world's tallest underwater waterfall, which is formed by cold, dense water sinking beneath warmer water, dropping over two miles deep. The flow of cold water is crucial for global ocean circulation, though it is threatened by climate change. 

Iceland flanked us for longer than I expected

Our trip was billed as Northeast Greenland, but I feel that that description, which is used by everyone not just Quark, is somewhat inaccurate. 

 

I would call in east-central Greenland; Map: Google Maps

I suspect that actual Northeast Greenland is generally impossible to reach because of sea ice.

Like every expedition cruise, the itinerary is actually a general outline of where we might go. As we sailed, the Captain and Expedition Leader worked together to determine the exact locations, landings and order for destinations. Everything depends on weather and ice pack. Since it was mid-September, they had to be concerned that targeted fjords could be iced in and, thus, impassable. Fortunately, that did not occur. 

Top right: Pack ice, Svalbard, 2019; Bottom right: Coast of Greenland

The first decision they made was to start our trip at the farthest north location and then work our way south until we had to sail back to Iceland. That would give the bad weather longer to move out of our way and would result in a lengthy trip before our first landing. It also meant that our trip back to Iceland at the end of the trip would be shorter. 

I hoped to see some Pelagic birds on the route, so I tried to go out on deck with my camera as often as I could. 

I did see lots of Northern Fulmars, but not much else

Jean, our onboard ornithologist told me that she had seen a huge group of Iceland Gulls (which would be a lifer for me), but I always missed them. 

The weather started rough; watch these waves in full speed and slow motion ...

... but as we got closer to Greenland, the sky got clearer and clearer, making our first views pretty spectacular. 

Breathtaking

In my next post, I'll give you some background on Greenland.

Trip dates September 5 – 28, 2025