Last Days in Iceland: North and South

A wonderful surprise

Although we planned to spend our final days in Iceland exclusively on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, we got a bit bored and ventured just a bit farther northeast one day. In our defense, it had gotten rather rainy and gray and the weather forecast looked better where we headed.

We ended up with a mix of sun, overcast and some light rain

We didn’t have an agenda: just drive until we found something interesting or had to turn around to get back by dark.

We saw lots of pretty scenery as we headed toward what ended up as our farthest point: Hvammstangi, a village on the Vatnsnes Peninsula.

We took the lower route out and the upper back; Map: Google Maps

When we drove the Þjóðvegur (Ring Road) back in 2021, we missed this part of Iceland because we took a detour to Vestfirðir (the Westfjords). So, this was a new area for us.

Every part of Iceland is gorgeous

We were driving on Þjóðvegur and didn’t make a lot of stops so, although we found the scenery stunning, we didn’t come back with a lot of photos. That’s a shame because we saw so much gorgeous fall colors.

Lots of reds and oranges

One place we did stop came up on us suddenly, but forced us to turn around and go back. It was a blazing orange ravine called Gljúfurá Canyon through which a small river flowed, passing under the highway. The closest named town was Bifröst. I didn't see an actual town, just farms.

We photographed the ravine and old bridge that spanned it before moving on

Although I have successfully found it on a map a few times, it is a tricky place to find out about because there is another canyon in south Iceland with a similar name that the Internet wants to steer you towards. What little information I found said that there are lots of nice salmon pools upriver as well as some waterfalls and scenic spots. 

After passing mountains, rivers and actual trees, the land flattened out as we approached Hvammstangi. This was fjord country and Hvammstangi sits on Miðfjörður.

Wide plains bisected by rivers heading toward the fjords

The town has a population of about 580 and serves as the local hub for fishing, tourism, education and administrative services. 

Much of the fishing is actually shrimping, a major export of Hvammstangi

The village includes a hotel, restaurant, health centers and the largest textile factory in Iceland. 

Hvammstangi

It is a primary location for Seal watching and is home to the Icelandic Seal Center. We scanned the fjord looking for Seals, but didn't see any.

We poked our heads in, but didn't really visit the museum

We didn’t stay too long, but did stop for a delicious lunch at the Sjávarborg Restaurant, which was in the same building at the Seal Center. This late in the season, there weren't a lot of tourists. Most of the other patrons seemed to be utility workers enjoying a very hearty buffet. Scott loved the fish soup and I remember the bread and butter as being superlative.

The flavored butter was served smeared on a smooth river rock

After lunch, we wandered a bit and then started back, heading for a short time up the opposite side of Miðfjörður.

Old farm buildings on Miðfjörður; Photo: Scott Stevens 

We stopped at a local craft shop where elderly ladies were knitting hats and gloves

Along our return route, we saw many more Icelandic Horses than we had seen anywhere else.

This large group was unconcerned with our presence; Photo: Scott Stevens

Later, we saw a couple of smaller groups

Instead of taking the main highway back, we traveled on smaller roads along the northern coast of the peninsula. It was more scenic, but as the weather deteriorated, a little sketchier driving, especially on gravel sections.

But, nice views

Then, we returned to Hellissandur and re-packed our bags for our trip the next afternoon back to the states.

Goodbye, Snæfellsnes

Going Home

The next morning, we headed back south toward the airport, passing through Reykjavik on the way.

We had time to kill in Keflavík before returning our car, which was, blissfully, much less difficult than what we experienced when we originally picked up a car at the airport.

We were leaving, so, of course, the weather was perfect

Keflavík (meaning Driftwood Bay), is part of the Reykjanesbær municipality, which, with a population of more than 15,000, is considerably larger and more metropolitan than the towns we had been in for the past few days.

Founded by Scottish entrepreneurs and engineers in the 16th century as a center for fishing and fish processing, Keflavík still has a strong maritime feel.

A statue, commemorating Keflavík's past

Keflavík later served as a vital NATO military base during WWII and the Cold War and is now the site of Iceland's international airport. 

Within Iceland, Keflavík was renowned as a rich source of musicians during the 1960s and 1970s, and came to be known as "Bítlabærinn" or "The Beatle Town." That explains of rock-and-roll theme of the hamburger joint where we ate our last meal in Iceland.

Good burgers, too; Photo: Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar

We walked around the Gróf marina area. 

Just a small basin

Two dry-docked boats near the harbor

Then, we discovered a delightfully hokey tourist spot: The Giantess in the Cave (Skessuhellir). 

A path, marked with giant footprints, leads to the cave

This free, child-friendly attraction is a “cave” in which a 15-foot-tall friendly giantess sleeps (along with recorded snoring) in a large chair in her kitchen. 

Inside Skessuhellir

The cave features a giant bed, a giant dress and a pair of giant shoes. There is also a tree that children can decorate with pacifiers.

I suspect a parent came up with that idea

The cave was created by the artist group Norðanbál based on stories by Herdís Egilsdóttir.

Me in the entrance; Photo: Scott Stevens

What Happened After We Left

After futzing around Keflavík, we boarded a flight to Boston, where we would finish off our fall trip. I will talk about that in my next post.

On the plane (with no window in my window seat); Left: Scott Stevens

But, first, I want to talk a little more about weather. I have mentioned (too many times) how rainy and rough the weather was in Iceland in September. Yes, we had some sun and some lovely days, but it was definitely the wettest we’ve seen in Iceland.

Rain in Vík

When we decided to visit the South Coast before our cruise to Greenland and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula after we got back, we made a good choice.

On our last day in Iceland, while we were enjoying intermittent rain and sun in Hvammstangi, the South Coast was flooding. A 150-foot section of the Þjóðvegur washed out near Jökulsá í Lóni, east of Höfn, causing massive travel disruptions because there is no alternative road. 

Uh-oh! Photo: Reykjavik Grapevine 

Tourists headed back toward Vík and Reykjavik were stranded for two days before they could make their way back. There are some video links here. 

Then, the storms continued throughout the rest of the fall. And, in February, winter storms and unusually persistent easterly winds washed away large sections of sand at Reynisfjara black sand beach, fundamentally removing the strip of beach that passes in front of the basalt Hálsanefshellir cave and goes toward the sea stacks.

What it looks like now; Photo: Iceland Monitor

Now, those areas, which I have walked many times, are inaccessible, replaced by a steep erosion wall.

You can't do this anymore; Me, 2015

With the sand buffer removed, the ocean now strikes the cliffs directly, making the area far more hazardous than before.

There used to be a wide path to a vantage point for the sea stacks; This is in 2021

The future stability of the shoreline is uncertain, with experts monitoring if nature will replenish the sand (I have seen that happen in Clearwater), so it is possible that the beach will return. 

But, for now, it is gone; Photo: Reykjavik Grapevine

So, we dodged a bullet there.

Next up, back to the good old USA! 

USS Constitution, Boston

Trip dates September 5 – 30, 2025