Birding in Mexico: Parrots and Back to Monterrey

Interesting terrain on our route

The next part of our birding trip was a drive up Highway 20 south of Santiago. This is the road that had been all but destroyed by Tropical Storm Alberto in June. It was easy to see how the area wouldn't have been accessible in July and I was amazed that Rene's jeep could navigate it at all. 

This is one of the good sections

Damaged curb

There were some expanses of paved road, but most was just rocks and gravel with multiple stream crossing and lots of upended slabs of road.

How could a storm do so much damage 200 miles from the coast?

Well, the massive amounts of rainfall courses through the very steep canyons, washing away the soft limestone rock, leaving nothing but rubble behind.

Ironically, 20 years earlier, another Hurricane Alberto had done similar damage to the same area.

Now, there is hardly any water

The area we were headed for was some incredibly steep cliffs in Cumbres de Monterrey National Park with the funny name of Los Condominios (AKA The Highrise).

At first, I thought they were selling condo sites

I think the name comes from the straight-up-and-down limestone cliffs that resemble high-rise towers.

Cumbres de Monterrey was established in 1939 to conserve the flora and fauna of the area, which was threatened by the growth of the Monterrey metropolitan area. It owes its name to the mountains that comprise it and that form a series of canyons and waterfalls.

The Park has more than 3,460 species of plants and animals, of which 104 are at risk and 169 are exotic. This includes approximately 22 species of mammals and 120 species of birds.

A remote and dramatic environment

We were seeking the Maroon-fronted Parrot, the bird that Rene studied when doing his graduate work. Unfortunately, the closer-to-see nesting area was unreachable because of the storm damage, so we had to see these rare and endangered birds through camera, binocular and scope lens. Here's some video Rene took ...

They were very far away.

This is what they look like; Photos: Rene Valdes

The Maroon-fronted Parrot's habitat has undergone extensive degradation from logging, fires and agriculture; it is now restricted to a north-to-south 185-mile section of the Sierra Madre Oriental, breeding in only about 62 miles of that area. There is thought to be no more than 3,000 of these birds left.

The Parrots nest in holes, located in largely inaccessible rock faces, which protects them from predators.

Lots of places to nest

They eat primarily pine seeds from the cones of conifers. As the forests have shrunk, they have added agave flowers and fruits, for which they must travel long distances to reach. We saw quite a few and I was happy to even get a few photos that at least look like Parrots.

Got 'em

There were a few other birds around, including Lesser Goldfinches ...

A pretty little female Lesser Goldfinch

... and Black-headed Grosbeaks ...

A colorful male Black-headed Grosbeak (the same species I have in my yard all summer)

Both species were close and very amenable to having their photos taken.

Apple wine

Lunch was at another small local place with limited options (the hoped-for gorditas were not available, according to the rather dour woman in the open-air kitchen). The picadillo on a tortilla was basic, but the salsa was delicious. 

This was apple country and the restaurant was selling apple wine in bottles that had been placed over small buds, allowing an apple to grow in the bottle. We had seen a similar thing with pears in Italy years ago.

Near the restaurant was a Curve-billed Thrasher on a power line, just chillin' out.

Seen in the desert and mountains

Back to Parque El Manzano

We drove back toward Monterrey for our last night there, stopping back at a different part of Parque El Manzano.

Slightly gentler mountains

We saw ... 

One of a few Carolina Wrens

A female Great-tailed Grackle

A Rivoli's Hummingbird

Plus, there was a Turkey Vulture, some Acorn and Hairy Woodpeckers, a White-breasted Nuthatch and a Brown Creeper, Black-and-white and Rufous-capped Warblers and some Painted Redstarts that I didn't shoot.

I was very sad that, although I saw a gorgeous Flame-colored Tanager, the best photo I could get under the dark canopy was a blurry mess. I hoped to see another later, but never did. 

I had lots of photos just like this – and worse!

As most of the places we visited, Butterflies flitted around while we were looking for birds.

A Butterfly I am still trying to ID and a Gilbert's Flasher

Water Birds

We made one more quick stop, at a rain-swollen segment of the a river that was filled with trash that hosted a Great Egret ...

Looks like an extra-long neck

... and a Muscovy Duck ...

Looks like it doesn't want to be seen

Rene was looking for something there, but didn't find it, so we moved on.

Dinner that night was the worst of the trip: a much-touted street taco place in a trendy part of San Pedro where the meat was tough, the grilled whole small potatoes fishy-tasting and the tzatziki-type sauce just plain odd. 

The salsas were Ok, though

I was losing faith in Mexican food. 

Trip date: August 12-18, 2024