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| Sacha Lodge |
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| Napo River; Photo: Scott Stevens |
We were headed to a place known for is biodiversity. La Amazonía is home to more varieties of plants and animals than any other place on Earth, so I was really looking forward to lots of birds, monkeys, sloths and who knows what else.
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| White-throated Toucan |
On the flight there, I finally realized that my cough and general tiredness was probably not allergies (as I was hoping) or strep throat (which I was attempting to knock out with the antibiotics I had brought with me). As soon as the cabin pressurized, my ears went into attack mode. It was the worst ear pain I had ever experienced and I was afraid that my ear drum would burst. For all I know, it did, because when we deplaned, both ears were clogged. It was two days before the right – the most badly clogged – cleared and another before the left was finally normal. So, I spent my time in the Amazon feeling generally good, but plagued with a tickly cough and constantly asking “What?” whenever anyone spoke. Fun!
Coca
While not quite as complex as getting to Isabela Island, getting to Sacha Lodge involved quite a few stops and steps. Upon landing in Coca in a light rain …
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| They handed us umbrellas, but Scott declined |
… we took a quick “tour” of the town, which meant going to a small market in the bleak little town ...
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| Not much there |
The vendors had some fruits and vegetables …
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| Local produce |
… and one woman was selling medicinal potions based on traditional Amazonian herbal treatment. The stuff I drank (and actually purchased to take for the next few days) didn’t do much to help. It was brown and tasted of alcohol and molasses. Ick!
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| The medicines were roots and plants steeped in alcohol |
Our next stop was the in-town staging area for Sacha Lodge. Our local guide, Juan, gave us a brief overview and then we all signed some waivers (we might drown, blah, blah, blah) and donned lifejackets.
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| Our local guide, Juan |
Then, we walked about a half block to the town dock, where we boarded a long, narrow boat …
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| Climbing in |
… fundamentally, a large motorized canoe …
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| Our group (Juan and Wilson in front) |
Napo River
For the next two hours or so, we zipped (and sometimes crawled where the water was shallow) down the Napo River toward our Lodge.
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| Passing a similar boat |
The Napo River rises on the flanks of the east Andean volcanoes of Antisana, Sincholagua and Cotopaxi and drains into the Amazon 668 miles later in Iquitos, Peru.
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| The river's route |
Of course, we weren't going that far.
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| Our route |
The part we traveled on is wide, shallow, muddy and full of snags and sandbanks. In some places, it is over five miles wide. And, we were told that the Napo is dwarfed by the Amazon.
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| Passing a snag |
The river is edged by thick jungle, so you can’t see far beyond the shore.
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| Very limited visibility past the shore |
Occasionally the level canopy top is broken by humongous kapok trees that tower over the jungle below.
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| Truly impressive tree |
I was surprised at how few birds I saw on our initial trip to Sacha. It was overcast and occasionally raining, but I would have expected lots of Herons at the minimum. I did see trees with dangling Oropendola nests …
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| Lots of nest, no birds |
… Amazonian Termite nests …
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| These things are huge |
… and a few Vultures flying over us. Plus, I got a picture of a distant Hawk perched in the crook of a tree …
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| Greater Yellow-headed Vulture and Slate-colored Hawk |
This part of Ecuador is inhabited by peoples who had little to do with the Spanish and, therefore, maintained most of their culture and way of life. I will talk more about that later.
One of the biggest threats to the indigenous lifestyle and to the environment is the oil industry. We saw evidence of drilling, processing and shipping all up and down the river. Initially, the oil companies took resources without any compensation to the native peoples. That situation has somewhat improved, but there are still many issues.
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| Oil operations |
On to the Lodge
We finally arrived at Sacha Lodge’s Napo River dock, where we disembarked from the big canoe and walked up to a little hut, where we shed our life jackets and were given rubber boots to wear during our stay at the Lodge.
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| The Lodge provide boots for the muddy trails |
The next part of the journey was an approximately mile-long hike through the jungle to another canoe dock. Wilson had told us that we wouldn’t have to carry our luggage and that for $2.00 a piece, Lodge personnel would also transport our carry-on. This was good to know because my backpack was very heavy. I had followed the one carry-on rule instead of splitting things up like I normally do. So, not only did I have my cameras in my camera backpack, but I also had my computer. It was extremely heavy, but better than it could have been because my new waterproof camera bag is very lightweight. It was a good purchase.
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| The trail |
Now, Wilson had also said that, if we didn’t want to walk, we could pay $10 a person to be transported via a tuk-tuk/rickshaw thing. Since Scott had been sick, he decided (in advance) that that’s what he wanted to do. So, I thought, what the heck, I have a cold and the hike might be hot and miserable. So, I said yes.
BIG MISTAKE!!!
Tony and Elayne had taken the option, too. And, they were loaded onto a little cart with seats that was pushed by one of the Lodge workers.
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| That didn't look too bad; Right photo: Kathy Acker |
Then, another guy pushes a high flat wooden cart that is loaded with luggage up to us. He puts a wooden bench on it (not connected, just sitting on top) and motions for us to climb up and sit on the bench. I did, but was extremely uncomfortable to be up so high on an unsecured seat. Then the guy starts pulling.
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| On the way; Right photo: Scott Stevens |
Within minutes, Scott said, “Nope” and got off. I said I wanted off, too, but he started pulling and I couldn’t get off.
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| Terrifying; Photo: Kathy Acker |
So, as most of our companions took off on a lovely shaded trail in weather that wasn’t nearly as hot and humid as I expected, I went on Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride.
The trail was partially mud, partially a wooden walkway and a lot of raised boardwalk with no guard rails. The cart seemed to be almost as wide as the boardwalk (it wasn't) and I was positive we were going to go off one side, which would dump me into the water or, worse, scrap me along the wooden edge.
The fear got worse when the guy in front of us pulling Tony and Elayne kept getting stuck and our guy, who was pulling me and luggage, was also pushing him.
And, then, the was the whole imperialism thing. What I thought might be fun and an interesting cultural experience was actually two young guys straining all their muscles to transport white people who could have just as easily walked.
I will not do that again.
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| Making our way through the mud; Photo: Scott Stevens |
Oh, and the walkers saw Howler Monkeys! I just saw my impending death and staggering white privilege.
Once the ordeal ended, we boarded two smaller canoes …
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| Nice little boats |
… and Wilson and Juan paddled us down a canal …
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| A peaceful ride |
… and then across a small lake (Lake Pilchicocha to be precise) ...
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| Entering the lake |
... to the Lodge ...
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| There it is! |
A little bit of a trek, but that adds to the adventure, right?
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| The route |
Just as we entered the lake, we saw a juvenile Snail Kite sitting in a tree. Apparently, it was there often. So, even though it was a bit far off, I had good reason to believe that I would see it again. I did.
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| The Snail Kite welcomed us |
As we approached the dock, I quickly snapped a very poor photo of a Black-throated Mango Hummingbird sitting on a branch. It turned out to be the only Hummingbird I saw at Sacha and the last I saw on the trip. Unfortunately, my good camera with the long lens was in my camera bag, so it’s not a great shot.
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| The welcoming party |
Right after we disembarked, I captured some photos of what I thought was a black bird with interesting white markings by its bill. It turns out that it was deep burgundy. According to Wilson, the Silver-beaked Tanager isn’t seen that often at Sacha.
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| Score! |
Sacha Lodge
What a lovely place!
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| The Sacha Lodge; Photo: Sacha Lodge |
Individual cabins strung out along raised boardwalks in the jungle.
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| There is a lot of walking to get to and from your cabin |
Air-conditioned cabins with hammocks on the deck (although who ever had time to rest?)!
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| Our home away from home |
Beautiful surroundings.
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| Gorgeous sunset |
Lush vegetation.
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| Unfortunately, it wasn't orchid season, so there were only a few |
Monkeys in the trees above the cabins.
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| Ecuadorian Squirrel Monkeys |
A lakeside ramada where breakfast and lunch are served. And, where you can watch for piranha …
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| Fishing (no one caught any), cooking and dining |
A lovely dining area for dinners …
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| Dining room; Photo: Sacha Lodge |
Bats …
Giant River Otters (more on them later) …
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| Some prime entertainment from the ramada |
White-winged Swallows …
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| They sat on the railing every day |
Great Kiskadees …
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| Hanging out at the canoe dock |
A butterfly house …
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| The biggest butterfly house in the Ecuadorian Amazon |
And, trails and canals leading to exciting adventures that I will cover in upcoming posts.
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| Pathway through the jungle |
The rooms were lovely.
The food was good.
The staff was warm, welcoming and knowledgeable.
The setting is beautiful.
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| A great place to stay; Photo: Sacha Lodge |
And, even though the birds and animals were not as plentiful and close as what I saw in Costa Rica, I did end up seeing quite a few, including some beautiful specimens.
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| Tropical Kingbird |
Stay tuned for more on our stay at Sacha.
Trip date: March 7 - 19, 2023
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