If I Were Going...: Hringvegur Plus #16: Reykjanes and Goodbye!

Gunnuhver Hot Springs on the Reykjanes Peninsula; Photo: Scott Stevens

On our last two days in Iceland, in addition to getting a COVID test and juggling the rental cars, we managed to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula more thoroughly than we ever had before. And, we had some pleasant surprises.

They actually did do it our way!

The first happy occurrance had to do with the car. As I mentioned in my first installment of this series, I had to rent a separate car for our last day because I was not able to extend my Reykjavik-based rental and I couldn’t get an affordable car at the airport.

However, as I hoped would happen, when we went to pick up the car at Keflavik Airport, we explained the situation and Europcar combined the two rentals. We got to keep the car we had, we didn’t have to drive to and from Reykjavik and we were able to turn the car in to the office at Keflavik.

Keflavik is convenient to anything on the peninsula

We did discover in that process that the rental car companies at Keflavik no longer have shuttle buses. Instead, you have to walk maybe a quarter of a mile. It’s not bad, but not great if you have luggage. So, we decided that we would go to the airport early on departure day, park, check luggage and then return the rental car. It was a good plan and the parking was free because it took us less than 15 minutes to take care of things at the airport.

But, I am ahead of myself. Let's talk about Reykjanes.

Reykjanes Peninsula

Chart: Wikipedia

The Mid-Atlantic rift, which separates the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, runs across the entire country of Iceland and, indeed, is why Iceland exists because the magma that fueled Iceland’s volcanoes rose up through this rift.

Volcanic and geothermal activity is visible almost everywhere, especially on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

This landscape makes development difficult

The area is covered with lava fields, hot springs and evidence of past eruptions.

During the Middle Ages, many eruptions occurred in Reykjanes, but none had been recorded there since. Until Fagradalsfjall poked its head out this year, that is.

Not much grows except tundra-type plants

The shrinking, bubbling lake

Earthquakes are common, although we haven't experienced one in all our trips to Iceland.

In 2001, one beneath Lake Kleifarvatn drained it to the extent that it lost 25 percent of its surface area. Since then, hot springs have been bubbling beneath its surface.

The geothermal power station at Svartsengi produces 76.5 MW of electricity from the 475 litres of 195 °F water that gushes from the earth per second. The mineral-rich surplus water fills up the Blue Lagoon Spa, which is one of Iceland's most popular tourist attractions. We didn't visit this time. I much prefer natural pools to this manufactured spa.

Power plant, Blue Lagoon (Bláa Lónið), 2014

The Peninsula's north side is dotted with fishing villages and towns, most notably Keflavík (where the airport is located), Sandgerði, Garður and Vogar. Grindavík (where we stayed) is located on the south shore of the peninsula. The towns on Reykjanes make up the municipality Reykjanesbær, which has less than 16,000 residents, but is still the fifth largest municipality in Iceland.

It's more scenery than people

Known for violent waves and wind, Reykjanes would probably erode away if it weren't for replenishment from volcanic eruptions.

Below the Reykjanestá Cliffs

Let me tell you about the places we visited on the Reykjanes Peninsula, some on the morning before we drove back out to Vík í Mýrdal and most on our last day before our late afternoon departure.

Krísuvíkurberg Cliffs

Primarily known for 60,000+ nesting birds that were long gone when we visited, the black volcanic Krísuvíkurberg Cliffs drop abruptly from a flat grassy plain to the ocean.

Lava cliffs jutting into the ocean

On the blustery day we were there, they looked moody and dramatic. But, without birds, there wasn’t a lot to see.

There were Northern Wheatears!

Gunnuhver Hot Springs

A colorful geothermal field of mud pools and fumaroles, Gunnuhver drives home the unpredictability and instability of geothermal areas. One of the mud pools has expanded in recent years and, now, you can see the engulfed remains of the old path.

Walking could be dangerous

Danger!!!!

The groundwater here is seawater, unlike other geothermal areas in Iceland. The water temperature can reach more than 570 °F, so it is wise to heed the warning signs.

After seeing the destroyed path, you wonder if the (obviously new) platform is even safe.

The geothermal areas have vibrant colors

Gunnuhver is named after Gunna, a woman who lived on a farm on the Reykjanes Peninsula about four hundred years ago. She was quite poor and when she was unable to pay her rent, her landlord took one of her only possessions, a cooking pot, as payment.

Drawing: SilviaDottiIllustration

Enraged, said she would starve herself until it was given back. Neither relented and she died of hunger. As her coffin was being carried to her grave, it suddenly became very light and a whisper echoed to the congregation, saying “no need deep to dig, no plans long to lie.”

The body of the landlord was later found mutilated and his wife was found murdered. Everyone suspected that Gunna’s ghost was responsible. She then began to haunt the peninsula, driving many residents mad. The locals asked a priest named Eirikur to help.

Drawing: Vintage Times

He left one end of a ball of yarn where Gunna was known to haunt and told residents to unfurl the ball as they walked to the hot spring. When there, they were to throw the ball into the boiling water. Gunna picked up the end to follow their trail and, when the yarn was thrown into the hot spring, it took her with it. Some say that you can still see her fighting to escape, and as such, the hot springs took her name.

Near Gunnuhver there are lots of industrial areas tapping into the underground hot springs. On a cool, misty day, they create some pretty impressive steam clouds.

Nearby industrial action

Reykjanes Light

Reykjanes Light

We saw the Reykjanes Light when we were walking around Gunnuhver. We consulted Google maps to find our way there, only to discover that it is a big tourist attraction we should have known about.

The first lighthouse in Iceland was constructed on the Reykjanes Peninsula in 1878, only to be destroyed by an earthquake eight years later.

The current lighthouse was built on the site in 1907-08 and was upgraded in 1929. At 102 feet tall, it has a much more traditional look than most of the industrial-looking lights in Iceland.

The best lighthouse in Iceland

It sits majestically on the top of a hill and has been determined to be Icelanders’ favorite lighthouse. Unfortunately, the hill it sits on is eroding and the lighthouse may need to be replaced soon.

Reykjanestá Cliffs

Just beyond the lighthouse are the Reykjanestá Cliffs, which are also active nesting sites for European Herring Gulls, Northern Fulmars, Black-legged Kittiwakes and Ravens in the summer.

An interesting uplift where lava met ocean

No birds remained when we visited, except a statue that I thought was oddly placed and strangely large.

Great Auk

It turns out that it is an accurately sized statue of a Great Auk by American artist T McGrain. The statue faces Eldey island, where the last two birds of the species were killed in 1844.

Even devoid of birds, Reykjanestá Cliffs is an interesting spot that bears testament to Iceland’s violent and turbulent creation. Here, the waves are regularly known to reach heights of nearly 100 feet.

Lava cliffs, sea stacks and boulders are pounded by the sea, creating dramatic landscapes

Brimketill Lava Rock Pool

Carved by pounding waves against soft lava rock, Brimketill is a large natural pool that sits at the bottom of a cliff at the ocean's edge.

While centuries old, the lava still seems new

I found out about it by reading an article in Guide to Iceland that talked about the treacherousness of visiting it in winter. It appears, however, that the article was written before an observation deck was built.

Brimketill would be hard to find without signs and a path

Now, it’s not too scary, but based on the seaweed littering the deck and the shore, it appears it can get crazy when the sea is rough or the tide is high.

It looks like the sea can get violent

From the deck, you can look down on the pool that fills with water as waves rush in, creating whirlpools in the water. Indeed, Brimketill means “whitewater cauldron.” Local folklore says that the natural pool was owned by a giantess, who used it to wash her clothes and bathe.

I guess it beats bathing in the ocean (how would you even get down there?)

The Bridge between Two Continents

The the Mid-Atlantic Rift bisects Iceland. West Iceland, much of the north and much of the Highlands is in North America and the rest of Iceland is on Eurasia.

A bridge over the rift

Signage onsite

The best place to actually see the Mid-Atlantic Rift is in Þingvellir National Park, which we have visited on past visits and didn't stop at this time because we passed it during a downpour. But, there is a good spot to visit on Reykjanes. The Bridge Between the Continent sits in the rift and runs in the direction between the plates, providing a symbolic opportunity to walk from North America to Eurasia.

I assume the bridge must be moved or shored up frequently as the rift slides

It’s just a little bit of geologic fun.

The love-ly path to the bridge (art courtesy of local school kids)

Time to Go

By the time we left, we felt that we had thoroughly seen the Reykjanes Peninsula, except for that pesky volcano.

The trip

Originally, I thought this would be my last trip to Iceland (except maybe as a pass through to other spots, like Greenland).

But, now I still need to see an active volcano. Plus, we saw so many places I would like to return to.

So, who knows?

But, we did finally have to leave. It was an easy trip home.

And, it was a marvelous trip. We put over 4,000 miles on our rental car and we saw almost everything one can see around the perimeter of this beautiful country.

The Hringvegur rocks!; Top photo: Scott Stevens

I picked up six new birds, bringing my count to 698, and I saw a couple of Icelandic Arctic Foxes in the wild.

Wild things

The whale watching wasn’t as satisfying as I had hoped and we didn’t see as much aurora as we would have liked.

But, we did see some!

But, the fjords!

Such beauty!

The charming buildings!

A variety of rustic and colorful buildings; Bottom right photo: Scott Stevens

The waterfalls!

Goðafoss; Photo: Scott Stevens

The mountains!

Massive peaks everywhere

The surprises!

Unexpected delights

The glaciers!

One of the driving forces of Iceland

The horses!

Icelandic Horse; Photo: Scott Stevens

The ancient cairns!

Such history; Photos: Scott Stevens

The glacial lagoon!

Jökulsárlón; Photo: Scott Stevens

The Puffins!

Such a treat!

Iceland is a spectacular country. It’s easy to get to and easy to travel in. While a bit pricey on the food and beverage side, there are lots of affordable (and often interesting) lodging choices. The people are nice and there is little crime. And, you can truly, truly get away from it all when there. I highly recommend that you go.