Maui #7 -- Molokini, Olowalu and Coral Gardens

Me in my custom snorkel gear

Snorkeling is one of the most popular activities on Maui. There are over 30 beaches and bays to snorkel at around the island. But, one of the best places to go is a submerged volcanic crater in the ʻAlalākeiki Channel between the islands of Maui and Kahoʻolawe named Molokini. 

During my two visits, I went on two snorkel trips with the Pacific Whale Foundation. Both were slated to go to Molokini and nearby Turtle Arch. 

The first trip was with Scott and we felt fortunate that we were able to go because the wind had been high and the water choppy. It was less than ideal conditions, and, yet, Molokini was relatively calm and the water was clearer than what we had experienced at Black Rock Beach. The additional trip to Turtle Arch was not as successful.

Map: Google Maps

The second time, on my trip with Caty, seemed like it should have even clearer water and less current because the weather had improved. I was looking forward to better views of fish and maybe, just maybe, seeing some turtles. But, it turned out to be a windy day and our captain said that we would not be able to go to Molokini because it was being hit by 20-25 foot waves. 

No thank you! 

Still, I was bummed because I wanted Caty to see Molokini.

Instead, we went to two spots right along the coast between Ma'alaea and Lahaina. the first was Olowalu and the second, Coral Gardens. In between, we headed up to a spot closer to Lahaina, but turned back because of rough seas (that's how we ended up in Coral Gardens).Caveat: This is where I think we went; it was never explicitly stated.

Wow! We were NOT disappointed. Both spots were gorgeous, calm, clear and full of sea life. 

Common Denominators
Both trips left Ma'alaea Harbor as the sun was coming up. They serve fruit, banana bread and juice (oh, yeah, and coffee for coffee drinkers) for a light breakfast on the boat. The trip out to Molokini takes awhile; the revised locations on my later trip were closer.

Maui sunrise

The snorkel cruises provide all the gear you need – mask, snorkel, flippers and a swim noodle to increase buoyancy (and, I am sure, tamp down panic among the inexperienced). 

Scott puts the noodle to good use

They rent short-sleeved wetsuit tops for $5.00 each. It helps keep you warm and adds some extra buoyancy – worth it. Caty and I used our own masks and snorkels because we have prescription lenses. The cruise also provides defogger (made with reef-safe baby shampoo), but I still struggle a bit with fogging.

Plus, unfortunately, the lenses correct only for nearsightedness, so I have a difficult time seeing the screen on my nifty underwater camera. As a result, some of my pictures were out of focus and some were misaimed. I have decided that the solution is to abstain from using the zoom.

Both boats I was on – the Guardian for Molokini and the Voyager for Olowalu/Coral Garden, offer multiple ways to get in the water. You can jump in, but jumping in with a mask on ain't my thing. The Voyager has a slide, but it still has a big drop-off. 

A nice floating mat

The Guardian has nice wide steps at the back where you can sit to put your flippers on and take them off (flippers are verboten on the boat); the Voyager has a ladder. I prefer the steps, but both were fine.

I found that, although putting flippers on and off is a bit awkward, people were polite and patient. I never felt rushed or uncomfortable getting in and out.

In addition to providing noodles, the boats also deploy a large floating mat that is good for kids and people who need a little extra security or who need to take a break, but don't want to climb back in the boat.

If you have never snorkeled and are uneasy about it, this is a good way to go. They give snorkel instruction and they deploy a number of lifeguards who monitor the group.

You generally spend about an hour in the water at each stop; Coral Gardens was cut a bit short because we had wasted some time trying to go to the spot near Lahaina. While it is an adequate amount of time, I could do it for much longer!

Ocean Guardian

Oh, and speaking of water, the water temperature is divine! There is no gasp upon getting in and I was never cold after I got out.

So, let's talk about Molokini ...

Molokini
Molokini is an extinct volcanic crater that was formed by an eruption about 230,000 years ago. One side of the rim has eroded, creating a crescent shape that protects divers from waves and currents – unless the wind is blowing in the wrong direction. 

Molokini from the air (the snorkel trips must have been over when we landed -- it's empty)

It is about 2.5 miles west of Makena State Park and south of Maʻalaea Bay. 

Photo: Pacific Whale Foundation

Molokini is less than a half mile in diameter and stands 161 feet high at its highest point – actually much smaller than I thought it was. Because it dominates the view of the south part of the bay, I envisioned it as huge. 

I also thought it was more closed off that it is – it is really just about 50 percent of the original rim.

The crater houses a reef with purported visibility as deep as 150 feet, although the commercial snorkeling spots only reach about 59 feet at the deepest.

Molokini from Makena

As I said, recent storms had reduced visibility when I went, but it was better than shore – and we did see a good variety sea critters and fish …

Hawai'ian Black Triggerfish (Black Durgon) that were the easiest to photograph because they were swimming above the reef, at times practically in my face …

Yellowfin Surgeonfish ...

Palenose Parrotfish …

Red Slate Pencil Sea Urchins (with a little Yellow Tang) ...

Raccoon Butterflyfish …

Milletseed Butterflyfish …

Orangespine Unicorn Fish …

and Yellow Tang ...

Because Molokini is so popular, it is quite crowded – don’t believe the pictures you see with one solitary snorkeling boat. one way they manage the crowds is that one-hour-at-a-time limit for snorkeling. Apparently, boats can leave and then come back for another hour.

Looking back at the Pacific Whale Foundation's Ocean Guardian

To protect the environment, boats cannot drop anchor. Instead, they must tie up to one of several installed moorings. This requires a crew member to dive down and tie the boat up. Some people have interesting jobs.

Taking a breath while searching for the mooring

The snorkeling was relatively easy because there were no waves – except if you go close to the back wall. Then, it gets a bit scary because it feels like you could be pushed up against the coral and rock. Of course, that’s where the most fish are, so you just need to balance.

I don't really see a woman here

In Hawai'ian legend, Molokini was a beautiful woman. She and Pele, the fire goddess, were in love with the same man. so, the jealous Pele cut Molokini in two and transformed her into stone. Her head is supposedly Puʻu Olai, the cinder cone by Makena Beach, and the crater is her body.

Archaeological evidence, primarily in the form of stone sinkers and lures, show that early Hawai'ians visited Molokini to fish. They also likely harvested seabirds, eggs and feathers there. 

The cliffs are a seabird sanctuary for nesting Bulwer's Petrels and Wedge-Tailed Shearwaters, but I didn’t see any. It must not have been nesting season. Additionally Great Frigatebirds have been observed on Molokini islet. Nada on that, too.

Now a Marine Life Conservation District, Molokini has suffered at the hands of man in the past. During World War II, the Navy used it for target practice, leaving behind lots of unexploded munitions. From the 1950s through the 1970s, commercial harvesting of black coral occurred in Molokini. In 1975 and 1984, the Navy then detonated the leftover munitions as part of a “clean up.” The result was significant damage to the wall and the coral. After substantial public outcry, the rest of the debris was removed manually by volunteer divers – a very risky procedure.

Backside of Molokini

Nearby Kahoʻolawe was also used for bombing practice and it is still off-limits because of the large amount of dangerous munitions.

Drift snorkeling

The waters of Molokini contain 38 hard coral species and approximately 100 species of algae. Although quite dense on the seafloor, they are not as densely packed as they had historically been due to the constant tourism and activity there.

After we snorkeled, we re-boarded the boat and sailed around to the backside of the crater, near where Scott and I had been on his cousin’s boat. 

Unlike the shallow crater, the waters on the backside are 360 feet deep. Diving is allowed, but boats cannot anchor or moor (this is called "drift diving").

As we passed the area, there were several boats and some groups of divers – plus Humpback Whales swimming among the boats. Awesome.

Close encounter

Our next stop was Turtle Arches, an area close to shore that is known for underwater lava formations and frequent turtle sightings. 

When the boat departed in the morning, we were told we would not being going there because of poor visibility. Then, the captain said he got reports of clearer water, so we went instead of returning to the crater. We shouldn't have. It was so murky, it wasn’t really worth putting on the mask and flippers. I did anyway.

This video shows the visibility (but I think there are faint whale songs in the background).

If I had one other complaint, it was that the tour offered a “reef tour” at Turtle Arches, where one of the crew members escorted a group of snorkelers and pointed out wildlife and formations. Unfortunately, they didn’t announce it in advance and I was already in the water when they pulled a group together. I would have liked to do that.

I would have really like to see a turtle.

This is what it is supposed to look like; Photo: Pacific Whale Foundation

But, even with those drawbacks, it was a good trip.

Olowalu and Coral Gardens
So, Caty and I got to experience a new location that I didn't expect to visit. Scott and I had seen boats anchored in Olowalu and Coral gardens from the road, but we weren't sure what tours went there. Now, we know it's an alternative stop. I guess, with weather, you need options.

Olowalu is between Kīhei and Lahaina (that's me in my snorkel gear); Photo: Caty Stevens

The water is quite clear, allowing you to see a wide variety of coral, both from the boat and in the water. It's a little deeper than Molokini, so the fish are harder to photograph and I ended up not taking many pictures at Olowalu, even though I thoroughly enjoyed the snorkeling. A real bonus: absolutely no current.

A wide variety of colorful coral

Olowalu Reef has large coral heads, some over a hundred years old. Some of the expanses of coral are really large.

Yellow Tang on one of the large heads

I learned after we went there that it also has a rare Manta Ray cleaning station and a Black Tip Reef Shark nursery. Unfortunately, we didn't see any rays or sharks.

I did photograph a little Bird Wrasse ...

Those cutie Yellow Tangs ...

... and my lovely daughter, Caty ...

Caty

At Coral Gardens, however, we had much better luck with the sea life. It was a bit swallower and seemed to have more accessible fish. In fact, you could clearly see the reef from the boat.

Coral from the surface

It also had a stronger current, so it was sometimes tricky to keep a bead on something you wanted to photograph.

Mooring

Just like Molokini – and I suspect every reef in the bay  – you can't drop anchor; a crew member must swim down and hook up to a mooring.

Once again, we tried to go on the Reef Tour, but the leader took off before we could both get in the water, allegedly to rein in some folks who were swimming out of the prescribed area. Then, another naturalist told us to wait because the tour guide was coming back. She didn't. 

We finally found her just as she was finishing the "private tour" she provided to two people. 

That's my one big complaint. They need to establish how to join the tour BEFORE the confusion of being in the water, where it can be difficult to find people.

The Pacific Whale Foundation Voyager (not as nice as the brand new Guardian, but nice)

Coral Gardens is also on the Olowalu reef, which is a seed reef for most of the world's oceans. Currents carry coral polyps across vast distances, where they can take root and grow. As a result it is critically important to keep this reef safe.

Colorful coral

We saw lots of cool stuff and, even, though I couldn't see through my camera, I got some nice shots., including Spiny Black Urchins ...

Ornate Butterfly Fish ...

Hawai'ian Sergeants ..

Red Slate Pencil Urchins ...

Brown Surgeonfish ...

We saw more Black Triggerfish (Humuhumu'ele'ele), which from a distance look black with blue lines at the base of their fins ...

.... however, up close, you can see that it they are mottled dark-blue/green coloration often with orange toward the front of the head. But, the Black Triggerfish has a trick up its sleeve (fin?). It can change color. I watched one change its head from dull black to bright, electric blue in a matter of seconds ...

Back at Molokini, I saw one go orange and blue (probably a Gator fan) ...

Back at Coral Gardens, we saw Saddle Wrasses (allegedly very common, but I saw only a few) ...

Palenose Parrotfish ...

A Coronetfish  (a completely different color than the yellow one I saw at Black Rock Beach) ...

Raccoon Butterflyfish ...

Teardrop Butterflyfish ...

Plus, we saw a fair amount of Blue Rice Coral, which is found only in Hawai'i ...

I missed a few fish by mis-aiming, but luckily, Caty got them, including a blue Sea Star ...

Photo: Caty Stevens

Some Humuhumunukunukuapua'a (that means "fish with a pig nose") ...

Photo: Caty Stevens

And, a very pretty Parrotfish ...

Photo: Caty Stevens

Photo: Caty Stevens

The naturalist told us the Butterflyfish most likely mate for life and are often seen in pairs. Most of my pictures were of single fish, but Caty captured a happy Teardrop Butterflyfish couple.

Caty also briefly glimpsed an octopus that one of the other snorkelers saw swim into a coral head. It was camouflaged so well that I was never able to see it. And, I really, really tried. 

I even took pictures, hoping I could find it later. I couldn't. And, Caty couldn't find it in her pictures either.

As I said, I truly enjoyed the snorkeling and want to do some more . Fortunately, i will get a chance when we go to the U.S. Virgin islands next Christmas...

It's like heaven

Caty loved it as well. When we bought our masks for the Dry Tortugas, hers leaked and she had to get it fixed after we got home. She told me that snorkeling is much more fun when your mask isn't filling with water.

Caty

On the Water
On the way back to harbor on both cruises, we had a delicious lunch (veggie burgers, chicken, hot dogs, macaroni salad and three bean salad) – and tropical drinks (free!). 

Because we where way over on the other side of the bay when we went to Molokini, the lunch was leisurely. But, it was fairly rushed as we powered back from Coral Gardens. Plus, the wind on that trip made it tricky to hold onto your plate, your hot dog or your salad.

On the Molokini trip, the boat was nice, spacious and smooth. The boat for the second trip was nice, just a bit smaller, so it was harder to move about. Both crews were friendly, helpful and informative. the scenery was gorgeous ...

Coral Gardens

Molokini (yeah, this is cheating .. I took this from the plane)

It’s a good trip.

And, of course, every time we were on open water, we saw whales ...

Close-by fluke near Molokini

 Breaching Whale on Ma'alaea Bay

... and a highlight of our second trip was dolphins – up really close and personal. They were so cool, however, that they will get their own post. Stand by for that!

Spinner Dolphins in Ma'alaea Bay

Trip 1 date: January 31-February 8, 2019

Trip 2 date: February 25-March 2, 2019